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Thread: Will this plan work?
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29th Aug 2018, 09:37 PM #16
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Hey Droog, The steel trailer frame i have to move 40 meters from the back yard past 2 boats up the front yard slope than on to the car trailer possibly by my self there is no way of just winching it on to the car trailer
the aluminium trailer doesn't have to move it can be built in the one location a axle bolted on than rolled under the boat when finished
i have been told the welds on a steel trailer need to be of an ok quality or the galvanizer can reject it is this true?
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29th Aug 2018, 10:13 PM #17
Have you considered building the trailer and towing it to the galvanisers ?
If the axle, lights and tow hitch are bolted on as most boat trailers are then it would not take much time to remove then onsite.
Once galvanised just bolt them back on and tow it home.
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30th Aug 2018, 07:54 AM #18
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Droog that wouldnt be an option i dont think the galvanizing place will allow that due to insurance reasons
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30th Aug 2018, 10:44 AM #19
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I've got to say, while hot dip galvanising would be the best option, if it's going to be difficult to transport and too expensive to get dipped, make the trailer out of Duragal.
Then it's just a matter of looking after it a bit more carefully, washing it down thoroughly and keeping a close eye out for the beginnings of any corrosion.
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30th Aug 2018, 03:28 PM #20
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Without being argumentative, I can't see Duragal being much better than painted RHS. Boat trailers rust from the inside out typically and Duragal is only an external coating, (Duragal Plus is both internal and external, albeit a very thin coating), thus necessitating a fully sealed frame to prevent internal corrosion as the internal side of the welds cannot be reached. Duragal is not a particularly heavy coating either being only 100G/M2 versus 400+G/M2 for hot dip.
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30th Aug 2018, 07:35 PM #21
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I'm not to sure about my welding abilities i ran around 20 rods today i suck lol saying that my welds held up in my 20 ton press without breaking tho, my welds would be ugly but strong
Not entirely sure about the aluminium i beam trailer after today i done further testing and made a home made die i first bent yesterdays piece to 19.1 degrees and the aluminium has tiny stretches in the aluminium right on the outside of the bend there were no obvious cracks but i could see the difference in the aluminium,
so i built the steel RHS die and tried to bend the aluminium again but i think my die is poorly made, the welds looked really good considering i had to fill 13mm+ gaps as pictured where i made the cuts the slag looked really good but when i knocked it off the welds were absolute crap
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30th Aug 2018, 07:37 PM #22
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Today i was using the Lincoln Easyarc 6013 2.5mm rods 40amps to fill the gaps i think i gave her more amps once i had the gaps filled
here is a video of bending the aluminium i beam chassis in testing, bent to 19.1 degrees if i were to use aluminium i need to be spot on 20 degrees
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psFtrVerhVw&t=8s
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30th Aug 2018, 08:41 PM #23
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I'm actually surprised that Duragal is as much as 1/4 of hot dip - I find Duragal is generally fine to weld through, but hot dip is an absolute no-go without grinding.
I do take your point about rusting from the inside though.
In that case, I'm wondering if that galvanised channel that Gazza posted about way back might be a reasonable alternative. Although he'd need someone with half a clue to advise on sizing.
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30th Aug 2018, 09:55 PM #24
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This one Rusty? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/nare...gth/1038153246 i have shopped with them for steel a few times its not a basic Asian ran/owned store these guys and ladies are all Aussies there shop looks like your normal metal supply factory no dodgy little men in a welding factory with steel on the side for sale lol
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30th Aug 2018, 09:57 PM #25
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Wouldn't mind know what Kryn put in his lanolin mix that he tested out in the yard also could come in handy if u can just mix up a spray bottle and spray the welds everyday i go fishing
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30th Aug 2018, 11:49 PM #26
We used to have a fair bit of tubular steel hot dipped when I was working in the furniture frame factory. Every member in the structure must have a decent sized opening at each end. This is not to allow the gal to flow in one end and out the other, it is to ensure that the the air inside the tubing can escape as the structure descends into the bath. The term 'hot dip' is accurate, the structure is submerged in molten zinc long enough for structure to reach the zinc temperature throughout, and then is slowly withdrawn to drain the majority of the zinc from inside.
Any air that is trapped within the structure gets heated in the dipping process and expands to a considerable pressure, and can burst the tube walls or welds causing an explosion under the surface of the zinc pool and splashing molten zinc out of the pool, a great danger for anyone in the vicinity at the time. Therefore workers are very diligent in ensuring that there are adequate bleed holes in hollow elements.
Hole size is a minimum 12mm diameter for smaller elements and gets larger for elements that can accommodate significant quantities of air. Minimum hole size is mostly determined by the surface tension of the molten zinc, which can easily form a film over openings smaller than 9mm wide and trap air. A secondary factor is that any slag or other lumps and impurities in the bath can build up in holes, reducing their effective size until the surface tension films over the hole sealing it.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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31st Aug 2018, 10:54 AM #27
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Yep. The open channel would address the concern over RHS rusting from the inside out. Again it's probably a much thinner batch gal coating than hot dip, but it just means you'd need to take a bit more care of it.
However, I think you'd need some guidance on what section size is appropriate. With RHS, there's plenty of examples of typical sections used for chassis rails and drawbars, but not so much about channel.
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31st Aug 2018, 01:36 PM #28
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I tend to agree with Droog, in that the easiest option is to build the thing, and tow it to the galvanisers, then pull the axles etc off. Their liability doesn't extend to the street out the front of their factory....
Failing that, go hang out at Eastern Creek (or whatever it's called now) when a sprint meet is on, make friends with someone who owns a car trailer. Exchange beer for transport.
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31st Aug 2018, 04:36 PM #29
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I think that it may well be a good idea to spend some more time learning to use your new welder and fabricate before you even consider building any trailer. Once complete, you will have a valuable and heavy boat heading down the road at 100K's. Failure is going to be both expensive and ugly when it occurs. A trailer is not a good project to learn on. Get your skills up, then tackle the big jobs.
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31st Aug 2018, 06:58 PM #30
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Yeah Karl good point this is why i thought about the aluminium trailer because it will be all bolted together only the drawbar safety chain will be welded not by me i will pay a shop, only down side to the aluminium trailer is it wont be a engineered design so i may need to over build it if i go that route
the only problem i have with stick welding is i move to fast because i see the slag build up and instantly think im moving to slowly but really its a mountain of slag for a thin layer of weld
i need to overcome that thinking
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