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  1. #1
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    Default Commodore rims on HQ hubs

    I've got some HQ hubs for a new trailer project and was wondering if it's possible to use Commodore rims, just as they're easier to find.

    The PCD difference is 0.60mm and I have been getting conflicting advice from the so called experts, so I thought I'd ask the experts on here

    Seriously though, is it a bad idea due to the possibility of shearing the stubs off etc.

  2. #2
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    Pray tell. What is PCD.

    John
    Last edited by Wimmera Jack; 17th Aug 2018 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Double post

  3. #3
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    The most important thing is that the rims fit on the centre boss of the hubs properly. The radial forces should be taken up by that boss. The studs should only hold the wheel in place (on a trailer).
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  4. #4
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    Pray tell. What is PCD. .6 of a mm is not very much.

    Mmmm. Seems I double posted

    John

  5. #5
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    The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) is the diameter of the circle which passes through the centre of all the studs, wheel bolts or wheel rim holes.

    Bob

  6. #6
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    Thanks Bob. .6mm is not much but in this case, may be.
    There are better experts here than I in relation to this matter.

    Hooroo.

    John

  7. #7
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    You'll break the studs. Don't do it.
    Nev.

  8. #8
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    The rim centre hole does no always determine the rim location. Some rims are lug-centric others are hub-centric.
    Nev.

  9. #9
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    No, No and No. Commodores are metric, and HQ-WB hubs are Imperial (inch) measure - and never should the two be mixed.

    Not only is the wheel stud PCD different, the Commodore studs (and therefore the wheel rim holes) are bigger diameter (12 mm), than HQ studs (7/16" or 11.1125 mm).

    As with all metric/imperial bastardisation combinations, they "will fit", but wheel studs are not designed to be bent out of alignment.

    Just think about those bent studs under heavy loading, snapping - then you losing a wheel, which then kills an innocent bystander/motorist? (and yes, this has happened, more than once, and it can happen with correctly-matched wheels and hubs).
    Picture yourself standing in the dock, trying to explain to an aggressive police prosecutor, as to why you choose an incorrect wheel hub-wheel rim combination? Ignorance of engineering practices won't give you a lot of protection under law.

    The best solutions are:

    1. Get a proper machine shop to re-drill the WB hubs, and fit new wheel studs, to the Commodore metric PCD.

    2. Buy new metric Commodore hubs. They really aren't all that dear in the overall scheme of things, and plenty of eBay sellers will provide them at a good price.

    Here's another hint. Holden one-tonner wheel rims (HQ-WB) have thicker rim centre sections, to carry heavier loads. These are less likely to be buckled if purchased used - and they handle heavy trailer loads better.
    I believe the Commodore one-tonners, and the "Police Pursuit" rims of the high performance V8 Commodores also have thicker rim centres.

  10. #10
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    Thanks guys, probably have to look at set of the new Aussie made Sunraysia rims or change to Ford hubs and get some steel hilux rims, they seem to everywhere.

    Anybody want a pair of HQ electric brake hubs and pair lazy hubs?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SurfinNev View Post
    The rim centre hole does no always determine the rim location. Some rims are lug-centric others are hub-centric.
    While you are absolutely right in general terms, I would NEVER use a car wheel hub and ring which is solely located by the studs on a TRAILER. The risk of shearing the studs is just too great.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bishboy View Post
    Thanks guys, probably have to look at set of the new Aussie made Sunraysia rims or change to Ford hubs and get some steel hilux rims, they seem to everywhere.

    Anybody want a pair of HQ electric brake hubs and pair lazy hubs?
    I think that I would make another choice rather than using Aussie made Sunrasias. In my experience, they are profile cut and left with very sharp edges, so sharp in fact that I cut my finger, just running it along the edge of the cut out holes around the hub. This results in them rusting around these edges soon after you get them home from the showroom. I have spent an hour or two filing the sharp edges and rounding them over on my camper trailer, before having the rims re powder coated. They should look good for much longer now, and the silver grey colour won't show any rust as much as the original white coloured rims did, even when they do get scratched or stone chipped.

  13. #13
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    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Although the question has been answered with generally a resounding “No”, I think I need to clarify a couple of points.
    Very rarely do trailers have their wheels located on the centre bore as cars do. Trailer hubs are manufactured as a “one size fits all” to the bearing sizes required, not to the rim holes, so most trailer rims solely rely on the studs for keeping them secure. If you then fit a rim with the incorrect stud pattern, you compromise on the integrity of the fitment. When you fit and tighten the first wheel nut, you will pull the wheel slightly off-centre, then as you tighten the remaining nuts, they will not seat properly, which in turn can cause them to loosen while in transit, as well as the trailer to shake and vibrate with the wheel being off-centre.
    Secondly, VB-VH steel rims are made from thicker steel than even HQ 1 Tonner rims, so are a better option for trailers that carry a fair bit of weight.

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