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  1. #1
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    Default Replacing rusted steel trailer floor with ply?

    I'm hoping that someone here can help with some sage advice.

    I've been gifted a 9 year old trailer with rust issues. The sides I can deal with and the chassis only has surface rust, so I'll clean that off, prime and paint with rust kill or similar.

    My question is that the steel checkerplate floor is rusted through all over the place and needs to be replaced. I can't afford to buy new checkerplate now, so I'd like to know if I can remove the steel plate by grinding through the welds. Then I can clean up the chassis and paint it. For now I would use a plywood base until I can afford to replace the checkplate.

    The question is though, how much of the structural strength of the chassis relies on the steel floor?

    And if I use ply, how do I fix it to the chassis? Can I use self tappers straight into the square beams?

    Here's a couple of photos from the top. When I can get some help I'll take some of the underneath.

    IMG_8097.jpgIMG_8099.jpgIMG_8107.jpg
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Here's a few photos of the underneath.

    under 1.jpgUnder 2.jpgUnder 3.jpg
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  3. #3
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Tooradin, Vic.
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    Default

    Firstly, WOW, what a gift!!!

    Secondly, unless you already have the Ply, then a new steel floor won't be that much different in cost, so I would see it as being a bit of a double-up.
    What are you intending to use the trailer for? Is the rusty floor bad enough it won't hold any weight at all? With some rust converter/primer, could it last until you can afford a new steel floor? Or could you use some timber offcuts just over the worst section?

    Some will tell you to replace the floor with timber and be done with it. This has its pro's and con's, depending on what you're using the trailer for.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    Well thought they where photos of my trailer....Will follow this with interest....Was thinking of using a Nover product call corelight a 16mm waterproof board.link here.http://orders.nover.com.au/Public/Br...t-brochure.pdf
    vapourforge.com

  5. #5
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    Thanks, Yonnee, it certainly was a gift. I'd been researching second hand trailers, and most of the ones I found looked like this or worse.

    The trailer is for trips to the dump, maybe some mulch. The most weight it will take will be camping. In fact I think there is real danger of overloading it as it's 2.4 x 1.2m, so it wouldn't be hard to load it up enough to take it over 750kg.

    I do already have some ply. It's 6mm so it should be good for a while, and I've got enough to line the base and sides, so I think I'll use a wire wheel on the grinder to take off the bulk of the rust, paint it with rust converter and give it a coat of primer, then line it with the ply. That should keep it going for a while at least.

    My concern really is that the rust will continue to develop under the floor and start to damage the chassis, so in the next year or so, I'll work on planning putting a new steel floor and replacing the tail gate, which will involve learning to weld I think.

    Rusel, I'll post more photos as I progress. The Corelight looks interesting, but it says it's 'high density' which implies it'll be heavy?
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  6. #6
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    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    Default

    rhancock
    no it is not heavy.... it lighter then MDF and it floats in water, Screws, glue and cuts well also. I was thinking is if it gets a
    gouge or scrape the water is still not a problem.
    I treated mine with a rust stabilizer but the damage was already done and yes I am also worried about the frame underneath....But I thinking if I replace it with steel it's going to rust again unless coat it but this will wear off and or make a cover for the trailer.

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  7. #7
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    Rusted trailer repairs if they are far gone are not an easy task however yours does not seem to be that bad.
    I don't think that a permanent lining with 6mm play is a good idea. It will not add structural strength, and trap water and make it rust quicker.
    I think the best and cheapest way to save the trailer is to arm yourself with a couple of wire brush attachment for your grinder and scrape off all rust inside and out and paint with kill rust or Hammerit. Once you stopped the rust, you can cut out a piece of ply that fits inside covering the whole floor if you have holes, but do not leave it there to trap moisture and make matters worst.
    You will be surprised how long a brush off and repaint lasts.
    I bought my trailer the same size as yours from a neighbor across the road who having changed the car for one that does not have a tow bar, was using it as a rubbish bin.
    On the surface it looked as a goner, however, after offloading the rubbish and giving a good clean it has served me for the last 15 years and I did not even paint it. I do keep it on a slope so not to accumulate water, spray it with oil when it is dry and hot in the sun, I have along the years, changed the springs for stronger ones, extended the tow bar to make it easy to maneuver, changed the tyres twice and loaded it many times with over 1000k no problem.

    To rebuild a rusted out trailer requires some welding skills and metal work tools, a lot of patience and if it is no longer registered, a blue slip for NSW or similar in other states.
    Civilized man is the only animal clever enough to manufacture its own food,
    and the only animal stupid enough to eat it.
    Barry Groves

  8. #8
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    Over the weekend I wore down a wire wheel cleaning off rust and gave the top a coat of paint. Also lined the inside with 3mm ply as a temporary measure so nothing falls out of the rust holes in the bottom. After the next camping trip I'll turn it upside down (how do you do that?) and do the same to the bottom and also see whether the rust has invaded the chassis.

    Here's a few photos.IMG_8310.jpgIMG_8311.jpgIMG_8312.jpgIMG_8313.jpg
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    Hey Richard the paint makes it look good
    vapourforge.com

  10. #10
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    Thanks, Rusel. It does look good. We'll use it and abuse it for a while and we'll see how it goes. My brother (part owner) reckons we should flog it and buy a smaller aluminium trailer, which is a good option too, but we have to keep it for a year as it's registered to his father in law who is overseas for a while.
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  11. #11
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    Aug 2007
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    St Georges Basin
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhancock View Post
    I'll turn it upside down (how do you do that?)
    Whenever I have done that, it has involved a convenient tree and a block and tackle.

  12. #12
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    I thought that. I've got a winch, and my brother in law offered a block and tackle so I think we'll work it out.
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

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