Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    4

    Question Enclosed 8x5 trailer rust repair Questions

    Hi all. I have a 8x5 Dual axle enclosed trailer that needs rust repair. Its rusting on the sides from the guard down. The skin is 2mm steel.
    I was considering removing all the steel sheeting from the guards down(around 30cm) and replacing witha weld join. However, would it be easier to overlap the sheeting and rivet and silicon yet still be sealed?

    Im putting electrical stock in so it HAS to be 100% waterproof.

    Also, where the side sheet meets the square tube running underneath the trailer it seems to have rusted inbetween the joins. Is there a way to stop this from happening in my repair?
    "Ya cant trust a pig with watermelon ya know"

  2. #2
    jatt's Avatar
    jatt is offline Always within 10 paces from nearest stubby holder
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    51
    Posts
    760

    Default

    One would assume water has been allow to sit in for a period of time to rust like that.

    Probably easier said than done, but I recon the only way you are gonna to minimise any rusting is to allow any water that makes its way in to get out.

    Ive worked on trailers where you drill a hole into the RHS and had water p*iss out, not to mention steel posts on peoples houses. Sometimes u scratch ur head and wonder how the hell so much got in there.

    The stuff just seems to find a way in many situations and is damned hard to keep out.
    Frisky wife, happy life. ​Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.
    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Yeah, the previous owner was in the hills behind Byron Bay. He had it parked under a big old tree with branches drooped over it...a rusts dream spot.
    Once the wheel guard join rusted out Im guessing that it leaked down to the bottom join of the outer skin and the square tube base frame. There the water sat and rusted...thats what I came up with yesterday looking at it.

    So...I was considering removing all the steel sheeting from the guards down(around 30cm) and replacing with a welded join. However, would it be easier to overlap the new sheeting under the old and rivet and silicon? And still be sealed? Would aluminium rivets wear through, even though the sheets are sealed/bonded with silicon?
    "Ya cant trust a pig with watermelon ya know"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Totally agree with Jatt, when ever U've got a welded connection on box section, especially out in the open,they tend to draw water up.
    Pending on how long U're keeping the trailer- overlapping etc by far the easy option.
    If your gunna hang on to it, cut the sheet out, clean everything up, including face of RHS.
    Drill 8-10mm holes at all joints of RHS.
    Weld section-s in & hit the lot with Cold Gal paint, heavilly

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks Mick, yes I thought I may have to weld rather than rivet (I was hopeing someone would say its allll fine ).
    I am wanting to keep it for a few years so the better job is what I will do. Will have a go at test welding some 2mm myself with the old stick and see how I go. Least the welder I have I can crank the amps right down, I have some 2.5mm rods, might have to go to 2mm though...
    Fingers crossed I dont have to pay someone to mig it.
    "Ya cant trust a pig with watermelon ya know"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2

    Default

    As we say over here, have a crack at it! U won't no till U have a go. We learn by trying.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    It's a bit hard to tell from the photos, but I would seriously examine the option of overlapping and Sikaflexing the join, (not silicone).
    You run the risk of a lot of distortion and rippling by welding and Sikaflex is so strong that the skins of bus bodies are held on with it - no riveting or welding.
    If done properly, no water will seep in to the joint, (full coverage of the joint with no gaps) and Sikaflex is paintable into the bargain.
    2mm is damn thick for cladding - are you sure it is that thick? .55mm to 1.2mm would be more usual.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    It's a bit hard to tell from the photos, but I would seriously examine the option of overlapping and Sikaflexing the join, (not silicone).
    You run the risk of a lot of distortion and rippling by welding and Sikaflex is so strong that the skins of bus bodies are held on with it - no riveting or welding.
    If done properly, no water will seep in to the joint, (full coverage of the joint with no gaps) and Sikaflex is paintable into the bargain.
    2mm is damn thick for cladding - are you sure it is that thick? .55mm to 1.2mm would be more usual.
    I had forgotten about the merits of Sikaflex, its a wonderful product and I feel you might be on a winner
    Would still need to spot weld the bottom I guess.

    Yes its 2mm, bit disapointing really, as it certainly makes the rig a lot heavier.

    Did a quick search on the Sika website and they certainly make a product for the job. Will phone them in the morning. See what they think.
    "Ya cant trust a pig with watermelon ya know"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    If you can clean the sheet adequately and clamp it, you may get away without welding at all. If you have to weld then minimise your welds as the heat will burn the Sikaflex, (a good hot tack, done quickly and cooled with a wet rag). You can probably use a piece of timber or steel along the joint and place props against the other side of the trailer in order to clamp the joint. Needless to say an extra pair of hands will be very handy if available.
    The key to success will be preparation, the actual gluing will be the minor part of the operation.
    I don't know which Sikaflex product you are contemplating, but I have had very good results with Sikaflex 291 - it's not specifiacally an adhesive but the advantage it has over say 252 ( from memory) is that it is somewqhat thinner and spreads easier allowing your panels to fit neater while still retaining a tenacious bond.

Similar Threads

  1. enclosed motorbike trailer build - advice needed
    By robjnoble in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 4th Sep 2011, 01:23 AM
  2. Enclosed Motorbike trailer build
    By surfin in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 18th Aug 2011, 12:02 PM
  3. Enclosed Trailer Build
    By BrentonSpear in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 20th Feb 2011, 10:30 PM
  4. Enclosed Trailer
    By Naif in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10th Dec 2010, 06:57 PM
  5. boat trailer repair
    By tanii51 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 14th Nov 2010, 05:46 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •