Thread: Tassie Tiger Trailer Reno

Ok hopefully this picture has worked. Have I got the labels right Yonnee

Not quite.
Let me modify your picture...
Attachment 192746

I've marked the place you need to measure your 22mm from back to the front face of the weld on mount plate. Some places provide you a mount plate with a round hole, and machine the seal journal back far enough to sit the mount plate in the correct location.

Thanks for that mate that is great My plate has a square hole to match the axle and is a snug fit. So now I have another job for my welding mate.

Here are some other pics of the set up for the new draw bar and support legs at the rear. Nothing fixed in place as yet just set up to see how it would all fit together.

Can I suggest attaching the stabiliser legs at the rear and have them facing forward. Where you've got them currently doesnt look like a great deal of clearance for the end of the spring leaves to move as the suspension compresses. Plus, the further back they are, the more stable the trailer.

Ok good point. Hadn't thought of that Tried them round the other way but the leg and foot rested on the spring slipper and didn't click into place properly. My thought now might be to mount them across the width of the trailer rather than down its length. Will have a think while mowing

Originally Posted by Tassie Tiger

My thought now might be to mount them across the width of the trailer rather than down its length.

That was actually going to be my other suggestion.

Bear in mind too, that when the trailer is tipped over the right way, the foot will face away from the trailer, not towards it as in the photos.

Right, the solution will be to mount the legs across the width of the trailer so that's that one resolved.

My next lot of questions relate to brake controllers. Yonnee, I note your response to Bigsheds questions regarding Redarc. I have been looking at the Tekonsha P3 90915 and have spoken to a mate who has one and recommends them as does another of our friends. Your thoughts? Also there seems to be a lot of "discussion" around the size/gauge of the wiring to use. Your advice on this would also be appreciated.

Cheers

Great advice for all of us Yonnee. Thanks,

No worries drsed, glad to be of assistance.

Tassie, haven't personally tried the P3, but I have no hesitation in recommending the Tekonsha brand. I have the Voyager myself, and have fitted many to customer's vehicles. For single axle and even tandem with 4 wheeled brakes, you need to use a minimum of 4mm cable. This is for both the tow vehicle installation, and the trailer wiring. When doing the trailer wiring, don't bother with 7 core cable unless you go to the expense of getting 4mm, but your lighting system won't need that heavy, and most places only stock 2.5mm and/or 3mm. I use 5 core 3mm for the lighting wiring (bear in mind the earth return needs to carry the return current for all the lights) and run 4mm double insulated for electric brake wiring if it's fitted to the trailer.

Thanks Yonnee.

Trailer lights.
I am going to replace the existing incandesent tail lights with leds. The existing light wiring is 5 core however, this will need replacing now that the draw bar has been extended.

Electric Brakes.
I was going to run two wires (live and earth) from each brake drum directly down the inside of the draw bar sections and join them at the plug so that the wiring to each brake is the same length. Are the earth wires from the brakes attached to the trailer chassis or to the earth pin on the trailer plug and is the earth wire also 4mm? The plug is 7 pin straight with two spare pins at the moment.

The Controller.
I am thinking of buying one of these kits - TEKONSHA P3 PRODIGY ELECTRIC TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER TRUCK CAR 4WD CARAVAN | eBay
The controller on its own is around $160 on ebay so I figure by the time I run around buying all the bits and pieces to fit it that this kit might be a better option.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by Tassie Tiger

Thanks Yonnee.

Trailer lights.
I am going to replace the existing incandesent tail lights with leds. The existing light wiring is 5 core however, this will need replacing now that the draw bar has been extended.

Good idea.

Electric Brakes.
I was going to run two wires (live and earth) from each brake drum directly down the inside of the draw bar sections and join them at the plug so that the wiring to each brake is the same length. Are the earth wires from the brakes attached to the trailer chassis or to the earth pin on the trailer plug and is the earth wire also 4mm? The plug is 7 pin straight with two spare pins at the moment.

WAAAYY Overkill
You'll only need a run of Twin Sheath from the plug down to the axle, then solder your join there and split into two runs, one for each brake. If you want to be a little pedantic, have the run from the plug go to the axle, then across to the centre of the trailer, and then you can make the run to each brake the same length. You're going to have enough trouble getting two earth cables into the flat plug let alone three!

The Controller.
I am thinking of buying one of these kits - TEKONSHA P3 PRODIGY ELECTRIC TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER TRUCK CAR 4WD CARAVAN | eBay
The controller on its own is around $160 on ebay so I figure by the time I run around buying all the bits and pieces to fit it that this kit might be a better option.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

From all reports, a fantastic controller, but I cannot say from personal experience just yet. The only issue I'd have buying from an eBay seller would be their existence in a few years for any warranty issues, seeing as Tekonsha offer a limited Lifetime warranty on this product. Will the seller be around for the controllers lifetime?

Hey Yonnee,

here is a diagram of my understanding of the "pedantic" option for the electric brake wiring.



Is this correct?

....

Hey Yonnee,

re your comment about brake controllers above and if the ebay seller will be around to deal with warranty issues. Just spoke to our local trailer supplier. The limited lifetime warranty on the Tekonsha P3 is 5 years and, wait for it, their price is $286. I can get one plus a full installation kit giving me all the wiring to the trailer connector on the back of the vehicle, plus 30amp fuse for $195 on ebay with free postage. I think the difference in price allows me to "self insure" if the ebay seller is not around to deal with warranty issues. No wonder bricks and mortar based retailers are going bust.

I'd be interested to see what I can get one for. If you want to hang five till Monday, I'll make some calls.
And in my dictionary, "lifetime" usually means the life of the unit... not 5 years??