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  1. #1
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    Default Widening a trailer axle.

    Hi all,
    Is it legal to cut and sleeve a trailer axle to add 50mm to it's length and what is the preferred method?

    I want to put some 14" HG rims onto a trailer that had 13" HR rims, however becuase of the different offset of the rims, the HG rims (well tyres actually) are fouling on the springs. The difference in offset appears to be about 50mm in total (25mm on either side).

    The axle is a 39mm round.

    I was thinking of cutting the axle in the middle, moving it apart by 50mm and then welding a sleeve over the cut.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  2. #2
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    Default

    It might be easier to just use a hub with a different offset depending on what it is now.

    Holden hubs did vary over the years to alter the track on their cars.

  3. #3
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    Default

    If it was mine I,d weld a piece of 39mm round into the 50mm gap before fitting the sleeve.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by R W View Post
    If it was mine I,d weld a piece of 39mm round into the 50mm gap before fitting the sleeve.
    Thanks for that, hadn't though about replacing the "missing" section. I was also thinking of putting a tube or bar inside the axle (I'm assuming it's hollow) as well as sleeving.

    Just had another thought - I could put a tube/bar inside the axle and just put the 39 x 50mm piece in the gap, and forget about the sleeve.

    Either way I was planning on plug welding the internal/external sleeves to the axle, rather than welding around the axle, so as to reduce the chance of the weld weakening the axle.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bedford View Post
    It might be easier to just use a hub with a different offset depending on what it is now.

    Holden hubs did vary over the years to alter the track on their cars.
    I did think about doing that, but I don't think it's financially viable (I'm after the low [preferably nil] cost option).

    I settled on the idea of widening as I have all the tools, parts and skills required already, so there is no financial outlay, I just need to confirm that it is a legal and safe thing to do.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  6. #6
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    Vernonv,
    I'm not 100% sure, but a 39mm round is solid, not hollow.

    When I have previously thought about doing this, what I thought of was:

    Cut axle in half.
    Start with a solid round 50mm bar, 150 long.
    Place bar in chuck, holding by 25mm.
    Turn OD, only sufficiently to take barest skimming cut.
    Drill in 50mm, 1.5" drill. (or 37mm)
    Bore drilled hole to 39mm, or just sufficient that cut axle is snug fit in bored hole.
    Reverse bar in chuck, hold by 75mm, set up with indicator for zero run out.
    Drill in 50mm, 1.5" drill. (or 37mm)
    Bore drilled hole to 39mm, or just sufficient that cut axle (the other half) is snug fit in bored hole.
    This should leave the 50mm you want in the centre, and creates a sleeve approx
    5-5.5mm over the axles, which would be sufficient to weld too.

    I've never of course done this, but if I had too, it's what I'd do. I am unsure of the legalities of welding an axle, although they do sell retrofit trailer brakes as DIY kits that require brackets to be welded onto axle.

    Cheers,
    Wahoon.
    Cheers,
    Dion.

  7. #7
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    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    There is no reason why the axle can't be hollow most of the way through. Tube axles are made with only enough stub axle inserted into the tube to stop the 'U'bolts crushing the tube. Making the stubs a neat fit will go a long way to ensuring the correct wheel alignment when finished.
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  8. #8
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    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    I'm also wondering if you haven't actually got HK rims, as opposed to HG. The HK rims are a much more positive offset (tuck further in) than HT and HG, although the combinaton of a small offset change and wider tyres could account for the rubbing too.

    Do you have a pic of the rims?
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  9. #9
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    Thanks guys for the input, much appreciated ... it gives me a few things to think about. If the axle is solid then Wahoon's suggestion sounds appropriate - I think I might even have some 50mm bar stock laying around that I could use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee View Post
    I'm also wondering if you haven't actually got HK rims, as opposed to HG.
    Definately HG, as they actually came from a HG and are the standard HG rims. The tyres are 195/75's so they are a little wider than standard.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  10. #10
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    Cool, was just a thought. The offset difference would mean the HK's would jam up rather than just rub too...

    And a 39mm round axle will be solid bar stock.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee View Post
    The offset difference would mean the HK's would jam up rather than just rub too...
    With the HG rims, one side has about 5 to 8mm clearance, the other just touches. If I moved the axle in it's mountings I could probably get it to the point where both tyres clear, but it would leave very little margin of error.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee View Post
    And a 39mm round axle will be solid bar stock.
    That's a bit of a bummer ... I was hoping for a hollow tube as it would have been easier to work with.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  12. #12
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    You could just cut the solid axle and weld it inside a piece of 1 1/2" steam pipe, (no seams).

    Plenty of trailer axles have been made this way with short stub axles and pipe, usually the pipe runs right through the U bolts, but wouldn't have to in this case because of the length of the remaining axle.

    Sorry it's only a little pic but you get the idea.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bedford View Post
    You could just cut the solid axle and weld it inside a piece of 1 1/2" steam pipe, (no seams).
    Yep, that is where my thinking is at. My main concern is that I want the modified axle to be as strong as the un-modified one, for obvious reasons..
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  14. #14
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    cut axle in half,shunt as long a splint on as you can fit thinking about bolts,check o/a length to be correct,remove scale from duraflex and preheat slightly,tack,check for straightness(tack in four spots equally around circumference) with good straightedge,if good preheat slightly again and weld.dont let axle cool to quickly (as in quench) and refit axle to trailer.if axle is not straight then rotate so that tyres are straightest to each other and the trailer chassis.

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