Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 32
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default Another Tray Trailer

    Hi all,
    Just after some advice, i have built many motorbike trailers and a few box trailers. This is my forst Tray type trailer. I have a Kia Truck tray (see pics, i hope they come through) which measures 3150 long and 1650 wide. This trailer will be rated to 2.8T as i am going to use it primarily for carting wood for home and i want to keep "legal". It will have roller rocker springs and 16" rims (probably off hilux or similar). I will mount axle on top of the springs to get a little more clearance from tray. The outer box section of the chassis will be built from 75x50x2mm, draw bar i plan on using 100x50x2.5mm but havent decided yet, may go to 75x50.
    My question is, what will be the strongest, yet lightest way to ensure there is significant clearance (say 3") between the top of the tyres and the tray? Do i weld an extra piece of 75x50 to the bottom of the chassis to mount the suspension to?
    Any suggestions will be very appreciated. Thanx in advance

    Cheers

    Andrew

  2. #2
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Welcome aboard Andrew.

    I'm trying to do some calculations, but I need some of my books at home to confirm some measurements. But roughly, you'd be able to get away with running a 75 x 50 x 2mm* down the tray where those pads are with angle welded to pick up the mounting points, then have the main chassis from 75 x 50 3mm* under that. With the axles under the springs on a Rocker-Roller setup, should give you around 3" clearance even with 7.50 x 16's.

    The bottom chassis would only need to go back as far as the rear hangers. * I would use 3mm wall for the bottom chassis. 2mm is a little thin to cope with the rigours of 3 tonne, particularly the welding of the hangers.

    With the extra height of the axles under the springs, you might need to drop the coupling between the drawbar for it to sit level.
    Last edited by Yonnee; 8th Sep 2010 at 12:49 PM. Reason: More info.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanx for that Yonnee,
    If you have time could you please confirm your response. With the bottom chassis, do you think i will need some 50x50 in between the 2 main rails that the suspension will attach to? Do you think 75x50x3mm will be sufficient for draw bar?
    Any other info would be great

    Cheers

    Andrew

  4. #4
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GU2001 View Post
    Thanx for that Yonnee,
    If you have time could you please confirm your response. With the bottom chassis, do you think i will need some 50x50 in between the 2 main rails that the suspension will attach to? Do you think 75x50x3mm will be sufficient for draw bar?
    Any other info would be great

    Cheers

    Andrew
    If I can explain it in words:

    I would start with the bottom chassis on the ground with side rails from the front of the tray to the rear hangers. A cross rail front & rear of this chassis of the same material (75x50x3). I'd then run 3 centre cross rails, evenly spaced, out of 40mm or 50mm square. Off the front hangers, I'd run the drawbar long enough to be about 5' from the front of the tray. I'd rather this be 100 x 50 x with a minimum 3mm wall. (3 tonne's a fair weight)

    Attach springs, etc. and then flip. Then I'd sit the 75x50 "spacer" on top and stitch weld (an inch of weld every 2 or 3 feet) Not that I'm trying to tell you how to lay eggs...


    I've had a play with the drawings.

    Without too much modification to the tray, you'd be able to utilise the original wheel arch spot for the rear wheel, and take a section of cross rail out each side for the front (marked in Yellow). The arrow in Red, I'd have the centre hanger.

    Attachment 146914

    Attachment 146915
    Last edited by Yonnee; 8th Sep 2010 at 11:59 PM. Reason: Continuity!
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanx Again Yonnee,
    What is the reason for removing the section of cross rail, is it to give more clearance above the front tyre?

  6. #6
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GU2001 View Post
    Thanx Again Yonnee,
    What is the reason for removing the section of cross rail, is it to give more clearance above the front tyre?
    Got it in one!!

    There'd have to be close to 2" in that rails, and it looks to be right where the front wheel would sit.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    No Problems Yonnee. Thanx for the info, i will have a crack and post pics as i go, first things first is to buy the running gear which is pretty exy, but thems the breaks. I wanna do it properly once so thats the reason for going 2.8T, any way there may be more qns later
    Thanx for your help

    Cheers

    Andrew

  8. #8
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GU2001 View Post
    No Problems Yonnee. Thanx for the info, i will have a crack and post pics as i go, first things first is to buy the running gear which is pretty exy, but thems the breaks. I wanna do it properly once so thats the reason for going 2.8T, any way there may be more qns later
    Thanx for your help

    Cheers

    Andrew
    No worries. Where in Melbourne are you? If you're this side of town, drop in and see Mark or John at Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies. (Shoot me a P.M. if you don't want it public)
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  9. #9
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Another thought to bear in mind. At 2800Kg, you're right on the limit of "Slimline" (Falcon front wheel bearings) axles. If you think you might carry this sort of weight a fair bit, then it might be worth looking at "Parallel" axles. They run the Falcon inner bearing as the outer bearing as well (hence 'parallel') and are rated to 1600Kg per axle, but still allow you to run the 10" Electric Brake rather than going up to the much dearer 12" brake on 2 Tonne axles. They are a bit dearer, but for long term peace of mind it might be worth it.

    If you go this way, I'd run the "Parallel" axles (3200Kg), 3 tonne Rocker Roller springs, and if you have 4 wheeled brakes and Breakaway, then you can rate the trailer to 3000Kg. Otherwise, if you don't think you'll get much over 2 tonne most of the time, then I'd go "Slimline" axles (2800Kg), 2.5 tonne Rocker Rollers and rate it and register it for 1999Kg. This way you could get away with brakes on only one axle and no Breakaway as a cheaper option, however, they're only good for about 1600Kg. If you went this way, I'd order the mount plates for the brakes on the other axle anyway, that way you can upgrade to 4 wheeled brakes as a "bolt-on" operation, rather than stuffing around welding plates on later.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    This is what i was looking at, but i will ask about parallel axles, seems a better stronger option

    D.I.Y 2.8Tonne ELECTRIC Brake Tandem Kit
    (customer assmblies / packs bearings / welds flanges)
    Kit Contains
    • 2 ea 1.4T 45mm Square Axles (customer to specify length)
    • 1 Pr 3.0T 60mm x 7 Leaf Tandem Rocker Roller Spring Sets - suit 14" Wheels
    • 1 ea Tandem Spring Fitting Kit - suit 45mm Sq Axles
    • 4 ea 10" Electric Brake Hubdrums(SL Bearings)( customer to specify pattern)
    • 2 pr Electric Brake Assemblies (1 LH / 1 RH)
    • 2 ea Electric Brake Flanges - suit 45mm Sq Axle (c/w/ Nut/ Washer)
    • 1 ea 3.5T Electric Brake Coupling
    • 1 ea Cable Adjuster
    • 1 ea 10Mtr Roll 4mm Winching Cable
    • 4 ea Cable Clips
    • 1 ea Trailer Break-Away System
    • Price was $1690 or $1760 for landcruiser stud pattern
    PRICE
    Kit as described suits Holden or Ford pattern wheels (13"/14"/15" wheels)
    $1690.00 (inc GST)
    Kit to suit Landcruiser 6 stud wheels with spread bogey fitting kit (16" wheels)
    $1760.00 (inc GST)
    Options
    ADD
    Overlay Axles
    $120.00
    Drop Axles 2-1/2" or 4"
    $170.00
    Electric Brake Controller
    $125.00
    1.4T 45mm Square Axles in lieu 1.0T
    $100.00
    Axle Assembly (if required)
    $150.00

  11. #11
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    OK. At home, with books.

    I calculated the diameter of a 7.50 x 16 rim & tyre (the old Landcruiser split-rim). This is probably the largest diameter tyre you'd put on a trailer. It equates to around 32's or 33's depending on tread.
    Diameter = 810, so Radius = 405

    A Rocker Roller spring set has these measurements:
    Chassis to the top of the spring; 205mm
    Thickness of spring pack plus axle saddle; 60mm
    1/2 axle material: 25mm

    Proposed trailer chassis:
    Bottom chassis - 75mm
    Spacer rail - 75mm
    Existing cross rail in tray - 50mm ??

    Calculation:
    205
    060
    025
    075
    075
    050 +
    490mm (centre of axle to tray)
    405 - (Radius of tyre)
    085mm clearance from tyre to tray.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanx Yonnee, your a great help
    now to getting the running gear

    Thanx once again

    Andrew

  13. #13
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tooradin, Vic.
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GU2001 View Post
    This is what i was looking at, but i will ask about parallel axles, seems a better stronger option

    D.I.Y 2.8Tonne ELECTRIC Brake Tandem Kit
    (customer assembles / packs bearings / welds flanges)
    Another thing to be really careful of is if you do go this way with a "kit", I've seen too many dramas with Electric Brakes not working as they should because of ill fitting flanges. Too close, too far or not straight, the brakes will perform poorly. The price you get from Melbourne Trailers will be for a fully assembled axle, or at the very least, if you get a "kit" (usually dearer anyway), order the axles with the flanges welded on. That way they're jigged up and you know they're right.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Ok Yonnee,
    Thanx for the heads up

    Cheers

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    31

    Default Centre of rocker roller

    Hi Yonnee,
    Just another quick qn, position of the centre of roller rocker spring. Should it be 2" or 4" back from centre of tray (tray being 10 feet long)

    Cheers

    Andrew

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Trailer build from dropside ute tray
    By surfin in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 1st Jul 2010, 07:31 PM
  2. Using a ute tray for a trailer
    By spooled in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 26th Apr 2009, 11:32 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •