Thread: Anti-spatter liquid

Hi all,

Was wondering if anyone has any experience with some of the different anti spatter liquids available, and might be able to recommend one.

My work only buys aerosol cans of anti spatter, which gets chewed through pretty quick (depending on the jobs, can see 12 cans used in a day in my section). I also get the sh*ts sometimes with the coverage, on some jobs it feels like most of the spray is going in the air instead of the workpiece.

Cheers!

We use a pink coloured product that is mixed with water and sprayed with a pressurised sprayer, el cheapo ones seem to last just as long. Will get the details tomorrow when I'm at work and get back to you with the details.
Have also used household dishwashing liquid mixed with water, seems to be OK, just needs to be rinsed/scrubbed off before the next stage, painting/delivery.
99% of our gear is made from Duragal and Galvanised sheets, and the spatter loves to stick to it!!!
Kryn

At my work they buy it in 20L containers and we just fill a sprayer with it as required, think the sprayers hold about 500ml.

I am not sure of the brand but it is red in colour.

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Don't know where I heard this (and I don't do a lot of welding)...... because age has robbed me of "short term memory" ....... but I think the idea was to use Canola Oil. Maybe here: https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com...zle-spray.html

If you want, I can leave now!

The can of CRC anti spatter I have here looks and smells like canola oil spray.
I’ve got a friend who uses canola - just buys the spray cans from the supermarket.

Steve

Hello lord Bug.
I would first check your welding process. Most spatter is caused by poor earth connection. We helped one customer by using a short lead with a clamp attached to the bench. Recently we sold 7 pulse migs to an auto manufacturer to reduce the spatter clean up. He now has 80hrs a week to allocate elsewhere. If you can't reduce the problem I recommend Unimig antispatter. It goes on thick as snot and works well. The 20ltr product is good but watering it down just reduces it's effect. Also most of the atomiser bottles available are rubbish. Inox bottles being the exception. The closest cooking oil would be coconut but I don't think it will be cheaper.
Regards
BC

Originally Posted by steamloco1954

I would first check your welding process. Most spatter is caused by poor earth connection.

Yes, and no.
Properly set machine with all parts working correctly will (should) be essentially spatter free.
Spatter occurs when short circuit MIG welding- in the short circuit portion of the process, rapid current rise during the short interrupts the puddle, and the wire can violently burn/melt away from this instantaneous high amperage situation, and spatter can be shot everywhere.
Corrected settings (volts/feed), or a refined inductance (choke) setting can help. For the latter, the choke acts to 'throttle' the rapid current rise in this short circuit situation, slowing down this rapid current rise. This is also why inductance settings have no place in spray transfer applications- in spray, the wire never touches the parent metal to go short circuit- arc energy is thru the arc cone only.

100% agree there is plenty of operator savings to be had in labour/cleanup/abrasives etc etc etc as a result of a quality machine. Doesn't take many tradesman hours to soak up the cost of a $10K machine...

Weld Kleen 350 is what I use.

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Back to the talk.
I just checked the stock of Weldkleen antispatter and the active part appears to be Cocomide DIPA. Is that a BS name for coconut oil?
Regards
BC
I recently watched a video on spatter caused by mill scale. In slo mo the gas explosions are really violent.

I was stuck welding aluminum all week, and being spatter free I managed to completely forget about this thread...
Thanks for the input all!

KB, did you happen to grab the name of the one your work uses?

Com_VC, do you find that it works alright?

steamloco, it's mostly short circuit transfer at my work, occasionally I'll do globular transfer when I'm dealing with stubborn weld leaks, but sadly haven't had a job where I can use spray transfer yet. Apparently we do have a pulse welder, but that's in the new builds shop, I mostly get to deal with repairs/rebuilds.
Most the jobs get sandblasted before I do my part, but all too often the tricky corners I need to weld into are the spots with the most paint still remaining, good times haha.

I've come across the mentions of using canola oil and dishwashing liquid as alternatives. Not sure if the oil would be kosher at my work, whether it would cause grief for the guys who do the cleaning/etching/painting steps. Have tried the dishwashing liquid (have some floating around for finding weld leaks out of the testing pools), but it's been less effective than the chemlube spray we currently use. Also completely evaporated due to the air when I tested it whilst arc air gouging.

I'll get my supervisor to special order in a bottle of the weldkleen to give it a go. Anything to cut down on the time wasted on cleaning up spatter, especially on the complicated parts where any spatter on the internals is a very big no-no.

i just use coles home brand non stick cooking oil, $1.85 per 400g can
even some tight workshops i have contracted at too use it
works well and cleans up with thinners damp rag prior to painting

one thing to note when using any anti spatter is to never spray coat to much
where your going to lay your weld bead, just a light surface spray is all thats
needed to where weld is and surrounding areas or else you wont have any spatter just porosity
also if using nozzle dip, i always only dip when the mig gun when its hot and always straight after
before i do any welding on a job, i do a short weld on scrap to burn up the excess oil coated on mig nozzle and mig tip
this stops porosity at the start of welds from the mig nozzle and tip being soaked in nozzle dip

Yeah weld kleen works fine, I use it when welding stainless mostly as spatter seems to stick to it more easily, comes off a lot easier with the weld kleen.

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