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1st Dec 2021, 08:36 AM #31Member
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All this talk of welding.
Modded this bracket for a friend last night.
For a rank amateur, I’m happy - I’d bump the Amps up a bit if I did it again.
I have an aluminium job for another mate next.
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3rd Dec 2021, 06:05 PM #32Novice
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More newby questions- what are a decent brand / type of "GP" electrode to start with? Internet searches suggest something along the lines of E6013, E7018? What brands are decent e.g. Cigweld or something else?
I've got plenty of scrap steel (angle, RHS etc.) to play with.
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3rd Dec 2021, 07:38 PM #33Philomath in training
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Those 4 digit numbers are a type of electrode; I'd suggest probably something like a 6011 or a 6013 to start with. The 7's are a low hydrogen electrode from memory, so can be sensitive to storage conditions and require drying before use.
I use WIA 12P electrodes; others have had good results with Gemini rods (grade I can't recall). BOC/CIG do the famous satincraft rods. While easy to use, they also do a great job of looking really good too, covering up your issues - not something that helps someone starting out.
Michael
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3rd Dec 2021, 08:33 PM #34
6013 is GP. Would be a good go-to.
Get arc time when learning before you go bonkers buying premium vac sealed low hydrogen rods. You want to be burning a few 5kg packs just to get your eye in, so to speak. Stack some beads in a 2F fillet (T-joint), quench often, and just lay em in there. get that muscle memory happening.
For the numbers- eg 6013 -
60 = 60,000psi tensile strength weld deposit
1 = all positional
3 = flux composition designation
6011's are cellulose - firey and not a good beginner rod unless you actually want to blow holes.
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3rd Dec 2021, 09:25 PM #35Member
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Back in the day 6013 and 6012 were General Purpose from memory. Mainly CIG. Can’t remember the specifics. 6012 for positional?
Try and keep the moisture out of the rods - I believe they can be “dried out”, but it’s hours in a hot oven.
Personally, I’d just TIG everything. Especially if starting out. It’s much more “pleasant”* and you can start out slow, especially if you have a foot control.
I only reach for the sticks if I want to speed things up on a bigger job.
I used to be “proficient” at stick welding. 2 Years at TAFE in the late ‘70’s (While still at school). Brand new to TIG - can’t see the MMA leads getting much use.
* Less pyrotechnics and smoke. Less mess (slag)
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24th Feb 2022, 02:51 PM #36Banned
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- Mar 2012
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- Sunshine Coast, QLD
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- 9
Because this is a fairly recent thread and as I'm a complete noob I thought I'd jump on the tail of it.
From city life to rural and semi retired I thought it's time to weld and my total experience to date is a bit of stick welding in my youth.
I went shopping for a multi process machine with the thought that I primarily want to mig weld, with a bit of stick welding and tig would be a bonus.
With virtually zero tig knowledge I landed on a well priced bundle from Unimig that had the VIPER 185 with a trolley, helmet, mig wire, mig torch, tig torch, stick torch, mig consumables, mig wire, gloves ..... $999, I thought I'd made a very clever choice.
So with a multi process welder of what seems pretty good quality and reputation ready to go, I start to research and learn.
OOPS! I need more stuff
So .. a welding table and clamp set, magnetic clamps, a plasma cutter, a plasma cutting table, welding jacket, spare helmet for assistant, monster fan, various pneumatic tools, grinding gear, etc, etc, etc.
But then DOUBLE OOPS! I'm watching and learning all sorts of new stuff on youtube and it seems the tig capability of my "multi-process" welder isn't full function tig.
BUGGA
At this stage I still haven't got any play metal to learn with, gas, fire extinguisher or welding curtains .. nope, I ain't arced a spark yet. Also a combination of weather, shed clutter and a want to get a decent bit of juice running to the shed is holding me back ... because the dangling power cord from the house isn't really appropriate for welding.
At this stage I now have what I should have started with and considering my career is bloody embarrassing .. I now have a list of requirements! The welder I have covers two bases very well and it's also a nice and light 10amp machine. The big BUT is that I now realise that I want a machine that has AC/DC and pulse tig functionality. The question I then started asking myself is did I buy the wrong machine or should I have bought two machines, with one being a slightly different model to the Viper 185. Research turned up the Lincoln Powercraft 200M and I thought I've found one machine in the sweet spot for me .. but then I researched the machine only to find out that it has a constant loud fan and there's a lot of issues with the machine dying (seemingly relating to build quality issues).
So what am I going to do?
Here's my current plan.
1. The Viper 185 can become my flux core mig and "portable" welder .. I'm on an acreage and its likely I'll need to weld here and there.
2. Get the Unimig Razor 200 AC/DC tig unit as a tig dedicated machine and it will live in the shed set up at the welding table - the only criticism I've found of this machine is the control interface, but I actually like it.
3. If I find I need a mig machine with more grunt than the Viper 185, buy a bigger one and set it up in the shed with gas, etc.
Surprisingly, when I look at the list of projects I want to tackle and the gear I still need to get, the actual cost of a couple of welders isn't a significant part.
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24th Feb 2022, 06:06 PM #37Novice
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- Nov 2021
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- SA
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kevpun I know what you mean about the welder capabilities and endless lists of add on equipment.
I decided to spend the extra and went with the SWS MMA/ TIG (AC+DC) for that reason. I decided I didn't really require MIG and the AC/DC TIG would be more useful in the future. I don't have 15Amp power, so am using it with an Ampfibian adapter- which will trip sometimes when first turning the welder on. (The welder seems to have some large capacitors that charge up when first turning it on- as the Ampfibian trips but the welder stays powered for around 3-4 seconds.) A quick reset of and Ampfibian and it's fine.
I'm only using it with the MMA stick function ATM. But it comes with what appears to be all the equipment to do AC/ DC TIG - apart from (of course) the gas bottle. I've made plenty of mistakes with it stick welding, but have managed to make a few useful things with it.
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25th Feb 2022, 09:58 AM #38Member
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25th Feb 2022, 11:00 AM #39Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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This thread reminds of a german philosopher by the name of Emanuel Kant. He was a very logical chap and one day he decided he should get married so he started to make up lists of what qualities would be needed in a good wife. Then he revised and prioritised the list. Then he left the list aside and thought about it it some more, and eventually revised the list again and again. He repeated this for 20 years and by then decided he might be too old and set in his ways to get married. And he never did.
Moral of this is don't stress too hard about getting every single duck lined up before you strike an arc. Try using and practice with what you've got. The best thing about doing this is it will demonstrate quickly to you what is useful and what may be unnecessary.
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25th Feb 2022, 11:08 AM #40Novice
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- Nov 2021
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I will in the future. I've got a shed I've got to organise first- it needs some sort of floor put in it. Being on an easement I don't want to do concrete. (For some reason the wife isn't happy with me storing welding equipment inside the house! )
PS: In MMA mode, with VRD turned off, does the fan on your SWS pulse on and off continually- as soon as you select VRD to off?
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25th Feb 2022, 01:11 PM #41Member
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25th Feb 2022, 05:04 PM #42Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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25th Feb 2022, 06:44 PM #43Novice
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25th Feb 2022, 06:45 PM #44Novice
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So it doesn't do this? (You may need to crank the volume up.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HWTg8TUCtc
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3rd Mar 2022, 04:00 PM #45Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Yeah that'll do it.
I remember back in 2011 over a couple of 38ºC days breaking up a 32 year old 6 x 4m concrete slab in my old shed in prep of laying a new one. I did not prepare the ground properly the first time and over time it slumped in one corner by about 200 mm and developed a large crack almost across the middle of the slab. That whole corner of the shed slumped along with it. I ended up using a couple of acro props to lift the roof and as the shed posts were made of 2" Galv water pipe I just welded extensions onto the posts and rebolted the roof onto them.
Had to barrow the broken-up floor concrete 50m uphill to the skip on the verge. I did it over two mornings as by lunch time it was pretty awful hot in the shed.
With slabs, good ground prep is essential to prevent edges lifting/sinkling under loads. I have a 4 x 5 m area under the house that has about about 1.5m of headroom that I level compacted and paved with 450 mm pavers. I was able to do it before the builders put the wooden floor above it down so had plenty of room to work - could not imagine doing this in that cofined a space. I use that for all sorts of long term storage limited by the width (750mm) and height (1.2m) of the entrance way in the side of the house. 27 years later the pavers are still level.
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