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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

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    3.2 is correct, compared to a 1.6 its like going from a pen to a fat texta

    All my gear is 1.6 and 3.2, you can get away with 2.4 for most applications.
    When I did researching on what sizes to run it was recommended to stick with 2.4 unless your either going to do really fine work(like autobody work) or ali over 3mm.
    My machine being 210a(@ 60% DCycle) and wanting the smallest torch possible I ended up going with a cooler and a WP20 torch, so with 3.2 electrodes I can keep my machine pegged flat knackers while doing 6mm Ali fillets(only just hot enough... using triangle wave).
    The 1.6 I use the most, the thinnest metal so far was modifying a chingaleese repo exhaust on a plate compactor @ .5mm that a mate tried using a MIG on 1st with flux core
    ....................................................................

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    I miss my MIG.
    I was making a rack to mount to a bull bar and just needed a couple of tacks to hold things in place so I could take it off and weld it. MIG welder, no problem, 5 second job, Get the torch in there, hold the loose part in place with the left hand, look the other way, zap zap and done. Clamping the loose piece in place, getting the TIG torch in there and the filler, getting the helmet to trigger while still being able to see.... well lets call it tricky. lol I seem to get a little porosity at the end of some welds, I'm thinking maybe I'm not cleaning the gal off well enough???That's a 13mm hole for scale.

    One thing I found handy with the remote amp adjust, while I cant use it while I am welding(still T2) if I need a little less A because the next weld is near an edge or some such, I can dial it in before I start welding so I don't have to get off my ass. On that subject, While making this rack I did find the 8m gun cable handy, the 3m earth cable was annoying. I can only find one extension lead(in stock) and that's in USA. I was thinking of making some converters so I can use these old gun cables as I cant find anyone selling them. Will give me some practice with silicon bronze.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    Hi Stu, I also got my welder out for the first time today to make a small repair to some support brackets which hold a sunshade for the green house. Even with a dodgy extension lead, 10A plug, 15A socket, and plugged into a standard domestic GPO, it is sooo much better than my old Arlec transformer unit. The new Speedglas helmet was much easier than any of my old helmets too which helped. Probably still some improvement to be had with cheater lens, but it was quite workable with set focal length glasses which I got several years ago for reading and computer screen use.
    About your extension lead needs, I'm pretty sure that Pete from TokenTools can sort one out for you if needed, but it sounds like you may be able to use cable already in your possession and so save a fair few $$$. Nitey nite,
    Rob.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    Well where are the pictures Rob? Am I correct in guessing you used stick? Stick may have been a better option for the tacking I mentioned above, will have to keep that in mind.

    It appears Token tools used to have them for $78 but "This product is inactive and no longer sold here"

    Some searching on Aliexpress found 5m of 16mm2 cable for $31 and the plugs for $5.50, can go up to 25mm2 for an extra $14. seems like a waste of time to roll my own ATM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

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    With cable size, keep in mind the cross sectional area (ie 25mm^2) and the cable run length.
    Amperage dictates cable size and duty time.
    Cable size may also need to be increased to compensate for voltage drop (resistance). There are calcs for this.

    16mm^2 is minimum viable for a small stick welder of approx 120A (ish) in my opinion.
    Up around the 200A draw range, and on longer cable runs, I'd be shopping for 35mm^2 at a minimum. Ideally 50mm^2

    Look up cable joiners. Guys who run engine drives love them, as you lop your stinger / earth cable off 300mm from the machine connection side. Add half of the joiner to the cable. Then add the other half to the electrode holder or earth clamp end. This would give you a standard 3 or so meter setup. Then add another cable joiner to each end of any 'extension cables' you'd want to run.
    They can be found at the usual suspects.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    I'm guessing 16mm^2 what is on the welder now, but will have to check as its not labeled. Based on what you have said maybe I am wrong as it's a 170A stick
    I was planning on going to 25mm^2 as that's the largest that will fit in a Dinse 10-25 plug.
    35mm^2 is only another $16
    I don't see a lot of high welding or even low current high duty cycle welding in my future. If there was it would pay to go to the effort of using shorter leads. This is more of a "be able to wander between two welding locations without having to move the welder. Part of the issue is the welder cant be moved ATM as the bottle is ratchet strapped to something solid as I haven't built a trolley.

    Those cable connectors are interesting, even Bunnings carry them.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    Sorry Stu, no pictures at the moment. Yes I did use stick. some very old Weldskill electrodes which had been sitting around for years, so I put them in the oven @200ºC for a couple of hours which would have dried them out a bit. They are 2.5mm E6013s, and they did stick a bit at 70A but were easier at 80A. They probably would have been OK at 70A, but each stich was only about 25mm long, so no sooner started, than run finished. These welders have Arc Force, but I don't know what the appropriate settings are for that so more to learn there too. As it would have been years since I last used a welder, I was pleased with the final result, and feel that with some practice and advice from knowledgable folk, I will get more out of this welder than I ever could with the old one.
    I'm not sure what cables are used in the welding leads, but the plugs on the leads on mine and I imagine yours too are labelled 35-70 and have a 12.8mm dia pin. I have not found dimensions of genuine Dinse plugs, but this knock off is dimensioned at 12mm for the centre pin, labelled 50-70, and according to the blurb is good for 300-400 Amps. https://www.hampdon.com.au/cable-plu...-70-dinse-styl. My guess is that our welders are fitted with 35mm², but I don't fancy trying to count the number of wires and measuring the diameter of one in order to calculate the cross sectional area. Quicker to call Pete and get it from the horses mouth. At one stage I was thinking of getting a TIG extension set that I could simply extend the power, control line and gas line by another 4 metres, to give me freedom to move without needing to move the whole kit and caboodle. Pete quoted around $100 for the setup with quick disconnects for the gas line, and I thought that reasonable for the kit involved and the time needed to assemble it, but decided to save my money instead in the end having discussed it with Pete.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

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    A 35-50 Dinse plug is approx 12mm like you measures on the pokey end (probably 1/2") and is suitable for 35-50mm^2 cable.

    As for cable size, most reputable cable manufacturers will print the cable size on the cable. All bar the most 'budget minded' machines will do this.
    Insulation is cheaper than copper, so simply measuring the cable OD is a poor method of determining. I've use a fair bit of Cigweld superflex cable, and this has a dual sheath, so thicker again, but tuff as guts.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    Well I'm glad I didn't order anything as yet. I'm not doing very well in this thread. I've no idea how I decided I have Dinse 10-25 plugs with 16mm^2, but the above posts make that seem unlikely to say the least. Will check in the morning.
    Yeah I'd never use cable ID to work out wire cross section. Depending on wire Dia 35mm^2 is only 1100 strands

    Maybe I should just give it up and start work on a trolley.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    A 35-50 Dinse plug is approx 12mm like you measures on the pokey end (probably 1/2") and is suitable for 35-50mm^2 cable.

    As for cable size, most reputable cable manufacturers will print the cable size on the cable. All bar the most 'budget minded' machines will do this.
    Insulation is cheaper than copper, so simply measuring the cable OD is a poor method of determining. I've use a fair bit of Cigweld superflex cable, and this has a dual sheath, so thicker again, but tuff as guts.
    I agree that most cable manufacturers will mark their cables with the spec, but these cables are not so marked that I can see. They do appear to be of reasonable quality and have what I expect is the manufacturers name on them every 300mm or so, and the only other markings are a running total of metre markings. The insulation is soft and pliable, not exceptional in any way I'm thinking but adequate for my intended use I think. It is more like battery cable for a car than extra heavy duty like your superflex by Cigweld. I've been struggling to post photos because my newish iPhone SE is not saving photo files with a forum acceptable file extension. I have either rephotographed or sent them via my old iPad which has converted the files to jpgs

    IMG_4338.jpg
    This translates according to one translator to "Welding cable Tianjin Kebo Cable Technology Development Co., Ltd. is just today by try IT environment".
    The plug
    IMG_4339 2.jpg

    And finally I understand your pain Stu, if you ever contemplated counting this lot. Just imagine how you would feel if you missed a few wires What you see in the photo is about half of them, the others are around the other side!

    757A96AC-D328-4ACB-B2ED-C18CD9ECEA70 2.jpg

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    I guess it comes as no great surprise that my welder is the same.
    I might put it on the back burner for the minute and have a bit more of a think.

    thank you

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    I'm pretty sure that Pete from TokenTools can sort one out for you if needed,
    Well Rob you were right. TokenTools has 5m Dinse 35-70 cable for $80. I stumbled across them. My google powers must be slipping.

    Problem solved(unless I what to stick weld that far from the welder )

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