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  1. #1
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    Aug 2020
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    Default AIG 200 ac/dc tig ,Australian industrial group? for a first TIG

    Hi everyone first post...i did a search but didn't come up with anything.Im looking at buying an AIG 200 AC/DC TIG from Australian Industrial Group in Perth. I have spoke to one person who has had one as a first welder for a couple of years and is really please with it for the price $600. It is a basic TIG without too many settings i spoke to the owner of AIG and he says they've sold thousands and part own the factory that makes them ,carry parts for them and seem to be good to deal with they are a welding company as opposed to an eBay seller selling everything under the sun .They do have a model up which has pulse and foot pedal and a lot more settings but is out of stock for nearly 8 weeks and i really need it quicker and the lower model is in stock.
    I know the ideal scenario of saving more up or buying a good second hand one but my budget really is stuck at the low end with a house renovation, one wage ,money going out for other things, baby... bla bla bla so at the moment its either something cheaper to learn on or nothing at all i may afford a decent unit in a year or so . Any other recommendations for lower end DIY TIGs would be good. iT needs to be AC for aluminium 2-3mm on my tinny.I know there's alot to learn with ali and learning TIG so prepared for that.
    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    I have one too. Very pleased with it!
    I'm currently making a foot pedal control for it.
    I'll post a thread on it when done.
    Spoke the company owner re warranty if I fit this and they are happy to continue to honour the warranty if I document the alterations and send that to them. Very impressed with that!

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #3
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    Aug 2020
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    Central Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    I have one too. Very pleased with it!
    I'm currently making a foot pedal control for it.
    I'll post a thread on it when done.
    Spoke the company owner re warranty if I fit this and they are happy to continue to honour the warranty if I document the alterations and send that to them. Very impressed with that!

    Cheers
    Joe
    Hi Joe ,that sounds good.How long have you had it and is it the basic version no pulse ?Dennie did say you can put a foot control on it but it would only be an on off type.So you would recommend this as a first TIG?
    I was sceptical about it with the price but they are a dedicated company that has no middle man to keep costa down which i guess makes sense.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    'Deni Lazarov' is the Managing Director of AIG. He sounds like a great guy to deal with. I've had a bit of correspondence with him now.
    I've only had my basic version, no pedal option, no pulse and fixed AC frequency 200A welder for a few weeks. It does all the TIG and stick welding I'm ever likely to do and does it well!
    My correspondence with Deni was related to my intent to modify the current control by adding a pedal connection - and the warranty implications of doing so. To my amazement, Deni agreed to my proposal on condition that I document it! So Ive done the (fully reversible) mod and sent the details to AIG - and was offered a job.... (that was a compliment, not a real offer). And the warranty remains intact.
    I've asked Deni if I can show what I did here. When I get his reply I'll post the details. It was very easy to do and I will have full control of the current by foot pedal to the maximum set on the welder's original panel control which stays in place and functional. Pluggin the TIG torch switch cable back in will give the normal on/off control when you can't use your foot - e.g. while lying under a car or up a ladder....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Ningi Qld Australia
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Have a look at this one: https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...-35-duty-cycle

    I don't own this one as I have a bigger unit in another brand as well as a large MIG, but this one is TIG/MMA only, and doesn't do MIG. Tradetools can ship but bear in mind any warranty issues and it will have to be sent back to Qld.? so a local warranty is better and worth weighing up the pros and cons. If you can only get one machine, then you will have to decide how much work you will do with a TIG welder rather than a MIG welder. For me 99.99% of my welding is done with MIG and the rest is only when there is a boat is involved so then TIG gets used as the Ally is rarely above 3mm and then the TIG welder just sits there. You will also have to get an Argon Mix gas bottle for the MIG or a Argon gas bottle for the TIG. I bought my own gas bottles so I don't pay a yearly rental. Bunning do a deposit down plus the cost of the gas and when you finish you can get the deposit back.

    So if you only have a few odd jobs on a small boat you may be better off just paying someone to do those as once they are done what else will you do with it? With a MIG it is more versatile in that you can use it to make pretty much everything else.

    There are multiprocess machines that will do the lot but usually quite a few TIG bells and whistles are often lacking. Forgot to mention, the face shield that is included is useless for TIG so you will also need a better face shield (get an auto darkening one)

    So as you are doing house renovations, which will you get the most benefit from, a MIG or TIG

    This one seems to have all the TIG bells and whistles for a reasonable price considering it does AC as well as DC. Just something to consider.


    Cheers
    Ed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    55
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    I have one too. Very pleased with it!
    I'm currently making a foot pedal control for it.
    I'll post a thread on it when done.
    Spoke the company owner re warranty if I fit this and they are happy to continue to honour the warranty if I document the alterations and send that to them. Very impressed with that!

    Cheers
    Joe

    I purchased an AIG 200 TIG late last year as well. I did buy the pedal but was disappointed to find out that it is not variable control! (I would love to see your mod Joe!)

    I have been playing with it most of summer to try learn TIG welding. Nice little welder but I am not a welder so am hacking my way through trial and error. I may have a few issues with it but yet to discuss with Denny. He does sound very easy to deal with and very helpful.

    Cheers,
    Brian.

  7. #7
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    Aug 2020
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    Central Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbuxx View Post
    I purchased an AIG 200 TIG late last year as well. I did buy the pedal but was disappointed to find out that it is not variable control! (I would love to see your mod Joe!)

    I have been playing with it most of summer to try learn TIG welding. Nice little welder but I am not a welder so am hacking my way through trial and error. I may have a few issues with it but yet to discuss with Denny. He does sound very easy to deal with and very helpful.

    Cheers,
    Brian.
    Hi Brian .I did end up buying the AIG 200 Pulse got it just after Christmas but life has got in the way and havent had time to fire it up yet!I think on the AIG 200 without pulse the foot pedal only controls on and off where as pulse model it varies the amps' could be wrong there.
    What size gas bottle did you get?buy or rent? im trying to decide between the two.
    What potential issues are you finding?
    I went with AIG because everything else in that price eg ebay sellers would have zero back up or knowledge of welding and just sell them along with all sorts of other unrelated things.Denny seems like a genuine bloke and this is a good price to dip your toe in the water of TIG if you dont have $1800 plus for Unimig or SWS (which i know are awesome highly recommended machines)

  8. #8
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    Feb 2021
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie6662 View Post
    Hi Brian .I did end up buying the AIG 200 Pulse got it just after Christmas but life has got in the way and havent had time to fire it up yet!I think on the AIG 200 without pulse the foot pedal only controls on and off where as pulse model it varies the amps' could be wrong there.
    What size gas bottle did you get?buy or rent? im trying to decide between the two.
    What potential issues are you finding?
    I went with AIG because everything else in that price eg ebay sellers would have zero back up or knowledge of welding and just sell them along with all sorts of other unrelated things.Denny seems like a genuine bloke and this is a good price to dip your toe in the water of TIG if you dont have $1800 plus for Unimig or SWS (which i know are awesome highly recommended machines)
    Hi Jamie, I do have the AIG 200 pulse but the pedal is still just on/off. I thought I asked Dennie if it was variable (and thought he said yes) but I may be wrong (or possible something wrong with the unit I am yet to call him). Yes he does seem very good to deal with.

    I too went cheap because I don't have $2K to spare. I don't need a TIG but just was keen to learn it so like you thought this would be a good starter kit.

    I purchased a D size argon from Sydney tools for $300 and it is $99 to refill/swap. D size is probably a bit small but I didn't want a big bottle. I recommend that you get yours from Bunnings (if you are in Australia) as you can upgrade/downgrade and hand your bottle back when done for a full refund. Sydney tools (and most other tool shops) are not so flexible. Sydney tools will not even let me upgrade to E size, I need to purchase a complete new bottle where bunnings do it and offer full refund if you want.

    The issues I think I am having but not sure as I have no experience with any other TIG welder for comparison, 1, When I turn current right down to 10 amps, it has a surge when I start and just blows holes in the thin material. 2, the pedal is not variable (this may not be a problem). 3, The arc welder stops after 2 seconds of welding then starts again. It goes on and off every 2 seconds. 4, Sometimes the high frequency start does not work (usually does but not always). 5, The AC (alloy) welding seems like it does not always create a puddle but I think this may be my lack of experience.

    I would love to have an experienced welder use it to tell me if these are real problems or I just need more experience.

    Let me know how you go with yours. Which tungsten electrodes did you decide on? Which filler rods have you decided on?

    I like the units features and hope Dennie can offer some good advice and help with my queries.

    Cheers, Brian.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Brian, it sounds like you got the wrong pedal or one if its connections is bad or missing. It should definitely turn on and of, but start at the lowest setting and top out at the setting on the machine.
    It sounds like you have the pulse set to 0.5Hz or that is related to a faulty circuit in the pedal too.
    I'm also having the 'surge' issue with mine. I suspect that is a design issue - and I don't like it. I manage to get around it by having a "strike spot" clamped to my work when I do really thin stuff.
    If you can't reliably get a puddle in alloy, it is very likely to be too low a current. Start with 40A per mm thickness and adjust from there. If there is a lot of surface area nearby or under your welding area, then you will have to go up. You should see a shiny puddle within about 3 seconds - or go up in current.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  10. #10
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    Feb 2021
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    Melbourne Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Brian, it sounds like you got the wrong pedal or one if its connections is bad or missing. It should definitely turn on and of, but start at the lowest setting and top out at the setting on the machine.
    It sounds like you have the pulse set to 0.5Hz or that is related to a faulty circuit in the pedal too.
    I'm also having the 'surge' issue with mine. I suspect that is a design issue - and I don't like it. I manage to get around it by having a "strike spot" clamped to my work when I do really thin stuff.
    If you can't reliably get a puddle in alloy, it is very likely to be too low a current. Start with 40A per mm thickness and adjust from there. If there is a lot of surface area nearby or under your welding area, then you will have to go up. You should see a shiny puddle within about 3 seconds - or go up in current.
    The pedal does measure a variable resistance with a DMM. It has a dial and has a 10K variable output when pushing the pedal. It does turn the plasma on and off but it does not vary the plasma intensity at all. Are you saying I don't need to do the mod? I asked Dennie for the pedal to match my welder so just assumed it would all work. I will try it again.

    Yes I think that idea is good to let the surge of power go before moving to the job. Not the best but at least a way around it. Why do you say 0.5Hz? It is even like this on no pulse.

    Yes I meed more practice with alloy. It is a bit finiky getting the balance right between melting the electrode away and not getting a weld. I'm a noob with this black magic TIG stuff lol.

    Cheers,
    Brian.

    P.S. How do I reply here without "quoting a message"?

  11. #11
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    The last question first: you click on the "reply to thread" under the left of the last message instead of "reply with quote" on the right...
    Continuing backwards: if you melt the electrode away, then your electrode is too thin. Try a fatter one.
    I said 0.5Hz, because that is once every 2 seconds - which you mentioned it turns on and off at...
    When you mentioned "plasma", do you mean the pilot arc or the welding arc? (Technically, there is plasma involved, but 'plasma' usually refers to a plasma stream coming from a plasma cutter....)
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
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    380

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    Quote Originally Posted by kbuxx View Post
    Yes I meed more practice with alloy. It is a bit finiky getting the balance right between melting the electrode away and not getting a weld. I'm a noob with this black magic TIG stuff lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Continuing backwards: if you melt the electrode away, then your electrode is too thin. Try a fatter one.
    If symptom experienced in DC, ensure you are Electrode Negative (DCEP will have the heat balance in the tungsten, not the job)

    If in AC, adjust AC balance. The DCEN portion of the wave is the 'penetrating' side of the wave, the DCEP portion of the wave is the 'cleaning' side.
    Higher pulse widths in the DCEP will give higher cleaning action, and higher tungsten balling. Check it's not stupid high DCEP in your AC balance.
    I usually run my machine (not this model) about 65% DCEN (penetration), (this means that the remaining 35% is DCEP Cleaning).
    Check your machine manual to work out what the dial relates to (some machines are useless with a number 1-10 or some other useless scale, so helps to know what the scale is).

  13. #13
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    Feb 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    If symptom experienced in DC, ensure you are Electrode Negative (DCEP will have the heat balance in the tungsten, not the job)

    If in AC, adjust AC balance. The DCEN portion of the wave is the 'penetrating' side of the wave, the DCEP portion of the wave is the 'cleaning' side.
    Higher pulse widths in the DCEP will give higher cleaning action, and higher tungsten balling. Check it's not stupid high DCEP in your AC balance.
    I usually run my machine (not this model) about 65% DCEN (penetration), (this means that the remaining 35% is DCEP Cleaning).
    Check your machine manual to work out what the dial relates to (some machines are useless with a number 1-10 or some other useless scale, so helps to know what the scale is).
    Yes I have the electrode on the negative terminal, and yes this TIG has a dial -5 to +5 for ac balance with 0 being 70% negative 30% positive. I need more practice here as I seem to always have to adjust it to get a weld going for some reason. Sometimes I can not even get a puddle. Other times if I do get a puddle, I can melt the alloy away. I fin't it hard to find the right balance between too hot/not hot enough, clean/penitrate, faster/slower...... lots to learn. No experience so usually don't know what adjustment I need to fix my problem. More welding time will help a lot. If I get the time and money, I may attempt a welding course one day!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    The last question first: you click on the "reply to thread" under the left of the last message instead of "reply with quote" on the right...
    Continuing backwards: if you melt the electrode away, then your electrode is too thin. Try a fatter one.
    I said 0.5Hz, because that is once every 2 seconds - which you mentioned it turns on and off at...
    When you mentioned "plasma", do you mean the pilot arc or the welding arc? (Technically, there is plasma involved, but 'plasma' usually refers to a plasma stream coming from a plasma cutter....)
    I see the "reply to thread" now. It is at the top of the page for me which was out of site when I am looking down the page at posts. The electrodes I have been using are 2.4mm. It seems like if I turn the AC balance to more clean, the end sort of goes globby. Forgive jargon! When I tried the stick welder I used DC but I have since realized that I need to drag the electrode on the metal to maintain the arc. When I said plasma, I meant the cone/arc/ ball of heat between the TIG electrode and the metal. Probably using the wrong terms. A course would do me good I think, just need to time and money.

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