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25th Jul 2021, 09:18 AM #31
If you are talking about a CK worldwide torch (the original, gold standard), than a 9 series torch is good for 125A DC (less for AC high freq), a 17 series torch is good for 150A DC (less for AC high freq), and a 9 series torch is good for 200A DC (less for AC high freq). Beyond these numbers, you go water cooled. Not all torches are created equal, so your mileage may vary with 'aftermarket' torches of varying quality levels. The 26 series torch neck uses a different backend connection back to the cable relative to the 17. Can't recall the actual threads. Not sure on a 9 series- i've never owned one. NB all this info is for the '1 piece' cables- ie gas thru the middle of the power cable. If you run a 3 piece cable- it's just a matter of connecting power cable, connecting gas to a barb fitting, and any trigger signal wires as necessary. For foot pedal work on my Tetrix, I run a CK 17 torch with a flex neck, with the 1 piece superflex cable. Can't go wrong. I'd run a flex-loc torch if I ever upgrade. If I were doing a heap of ally work, I'd seriously consider water cooled- allows a smaller and lighter torch with a higher current capacity / torch duty cycle.
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25th Jul 2021, 09:33 AM #32
This is the torch bible. Beware, about 25MB download, and the server speed on this one isn't the best. https://www.ck-worldwide.com/files/c...-worldwide.pdf
Page 52 of their doc shows the power cable setups.
3/8" 24 tpi RH thread is the go for 9 AND 17 torches. This engages into the back of a gas (air) cooled torch body and the other end into a 'safe loc' connector- which splits the shielding gas and power into the cable.
5/8"-18 RH for the 26 series. The safe-loc machine end on this cable is a 7/8"-14 RH fitting
The machine side is where you can mix it up- if you were on a scratch start rig, engine drive or whatever, you'd just need a lug. Most new welders run a 35mm^2 dinse connection (push, 1/4 turn job). You could also terminate on a field lug which you just clamp a stick welder tong style stinger onto. p45-50 has some options for machine site
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25th Jul 2021, 01:38 PM #33Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2021
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- South Australia
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Thanks for the link to the CK product bible, lots of useful size info in that.
I think I'll try an air cooled 17 size torch before I try a 9 then, as I may not need to go that small if the 17 is comfortable enough. So far I seldom run higher than 100A on the machine, and a lot of the time I'm closer to 50A on light ally. I won't throw away the original WP-26, it can come out for larger jobs if they happen.
The AIG TIG 200P seems to have a M16x1.5 gas/power connector at the machine end (my thread measures 15.9mm OD), the ground cable plug and the Arc plug are labeled DKJ10-25 (Dinse10-25 I guess).
P7250002.jpg
There are some CK copies that have this so I guess I'll buy a WP-17 with 1 piece power hose online and see how it goes.
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26th Jul 2021, 07:35 PM #34Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2009
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- Sydney, NSW, Australia
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- 1,836
Hey guys i ran this AIG 200 TIG today she ran really well on 4mm aluminium i had amps pre set at 135amps for 4mm heres a video watch to the end to see the welds my filler rods are to big 3.2mm so the welds are tall
https://youtu.be/wIjnIzKNaI4
One seam has a little gap i dont have a guillotine so no accuracy
Its a outboard pod
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26th Jul 2021, 07:42 PM #35
Wear a jacket, or at least some sleeves, man. And don't forget those gloves.
You'll be rooted tomorrow - and not in a good way - red raw.
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26th Jul 2021, 07:48 PM #36Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2009
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- Sydney, NSW, Australia
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- 1,836
Yeah i know about ppe i was just keen to tack her up today and got carried away, im not burnt not sure how i have no burn but its usually mig welding aluminium that scprthches me but my arms and hand are ok i have no burn on my biceps which is usualky the location
But its no excuse to not wear ppe i understand that
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26th Jul 2021, 11:58 PM #37Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2009
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- Sydney, NSW, Australia
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Tiny bit of redness under my arms i should have wore a jumper.. this is how my welds came out not a good weld to much filler it doesnt look no where near that high when welding
I should really have used 2.4 or even 1.6 filler rods i didnt realise when u light up the torch the two walls in the open corner weld almost close up to the point 1.6mm rod would fill it easy i went way over using 3.2mm rods
Anyway i havent tigged aluminium in 2-3 years
Got abit of crap in there mid way when i dabbed before the pool was melting
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29th Jul 2021, 02:10 AM #38Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2009
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- Sydney, NSW, Australia
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Appoligies for this post guys i have been going over wether the machines ac balance dial was normal or reverse but just realised i was way under amperage
I was running at 135amps but just realised i needed to pump more amps into the job 4mm material needs 160amps or more
Im not actually sure where i got the 135amp starting point it may have been when i last tig weldedthe 3mm 32nb tubing
If my power point can handle the 160+ amps i will give it ago once i get some ppe
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30th Nov 2021, 04:11 PM #39New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Toowoomba
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- 9
Adding foot pedal
Hi Joe,
I know this thread is a bit old but....
I have just spoken with Deni and he referred me to "the forums" to gain this information and to "protect" himself as he should. Do you mind sharing the info with me as well. I have bought a few things from him and am happy and have just ordered my foot pedal and other stuff. Likewise he also offered to support his warranty, but mine is now about 2 years so that's not going to come back on him anyway.
Cheers Cam
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22nd May 2022, 10:13 PM #40New Member
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- May 2022
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1st Aug 2022, 11:26 PM #41Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2009
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- Sydney, NSW, Australia
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- 1,836
Not sure if i posted this video on MWF but here was my go at tig welding 4mm aluminium using the AIG cheaper basic ac/dc tig think it cost me $600 on ebay from AIG
Pretty crap welds to much filler didnt feel comfortable in that position
https://youtu.be/wIjnIzKNaI4
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