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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

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    If you are talking about a CK worldwide torch (the original, gold standard), than a 9 series torch is good for 125A DC (less for AC high freq), a 17 series torch is good for 150A DC (less for AC high freq), and a 9 series torch is good for 200A DC (less for AC high freq). Beyond these numbers, you go water cooled. Not all torches are created equal, so your mileage may vary with 'aftermarket' torches of varying quality levels. The 26 series torch neck uses a different backend connection back to the cable relative to the 17. Can't recall the actual threads. Not sure on a 9 series- i've never owned one. NB all this info is for the '1 piece' cables- ie gas thru the middle of the power cable. If you run a 3 piece cable- it's just a matter of connecting power cable, connecting gas to a barb fitting, and any trigger signal wires as necessary. For foot pedal work on my Tetrix, I run a CK 17 torch with a flex neck, with the 1 piece superflex cable. Can't go wrong. I'd run a flex-loc torch if I ever upgrade. If I were doing a heap of ally work, I'd seriously consider water cooled- allows a smaller and lighter torch with a higher current capacity / torch duty cycle.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

    Default

    This is the torch bible. Beware, about 25MB download, and the server speed on this one isn't the best. https://www.ck-worldwide.com/files/c...-worldwide.pdf


    Page 52 of their doc shows the power cable setups.
    3/8" 24 tpi RH thread is the go for 9 AND 17 torches. This engages into the back of a gas (air) cooled torch body and the other end into a 'safe loc' connector- which splits the shielding gas and power into the cable.
    5/8"-18 RH for the 26 series. The safe-loc machine end on this cable is a 7/8"-14 RH fitting

    The machine side is where you can mix it up- if you were on a scratch start rig, engine drive or whatever, you'd just need a lug. Most new welders run a 35mm^2 dinse connection (push, 1/4 turn job). You could also terminate on a field lug which you just clamp a stick welder tong style stinger onto. p45-50 has some options for machine site

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    South Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Thanks for the link to the CK product bible, lots of useful size info in that.

    I think I'll try an air cooled 17 size torch before I try a 9 then, as I may not need to go that small if the 17 is comfortable enough. So far I seldom run higher than 100A on the machine, and a lot of the time I'm closer to 50A on light ally. I won't throw away the original WP-26, it can come out for larger jobs if they happen.

    The AIG TIG 200P seems to have a M16x1.5 gas/power connector at the machine end (my thread measures 15.9mm OD), the ground cable plug and the Arc plug are labeled DKJ10-25 (Dinse10-25 I guess).

    P7250002.jpg

    There are some CK copies that have this so I guess I'll buy a WP-17 with 1 piece power hose online and see how it goes.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Hey guys i ran this AIG 200 TIG today she ran really well on 4mm aluminium i had amps pre set at 135amps for 4mm heres a video watch to the end to see the welds my filler rods are to big 3.2mm so the welds are tall

    https://youtu.be/wIjnIzKNaI4

    One seam has a little gap i dont have a guillotine so no accuracy

    Its a outboard pod
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

    Default

    Wear a jacket, or at least some sleeves, man. And don't forget those gloves.
    You'll be rooted tomorrow - and not in a good way - red raw.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Yeah i know about ppe i was just keen to tack her up today and got carried away, im not burnt not sure how i have no burn but its usually mig welding aluminium that scprthches me but my arms and hand are ok i have no burn on my biceps which is usualky the location

    But its no excuse to not wear ppe i understand that

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Tiny bit of redness under my arms i should have wore a jumper.. this is how my welds came out not a good weld to much filler it doesnt look no where near that high when welding

    I should really have used 2.4 or even 1.6 filler rods i didnt realise when u light up the torch the two walls in the open corner weld almost close up to the point 1.6mm rod would fill it easy i went way over using 3.2mm rods

    Anyway i havent tigged aluminium in 2-3 years

    Got abit of crap in there mid way when i dabbed before the pool was melting
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Hey guys i ran this AIG 200 TIG today she ran really well on 4mm aluminium i had amps pre set at 135amps for 4mm heres a video watch to the end to see the welds my filler rods are to big 3.2mm so the welds are tall

    https://youtu.be/wIjnIzKNaI4

    One seam has a little gap i dont have a guillotine so no accuracy

    Its a outboard pod
    Appoligies for this post guys i have been going over wether the machines ac balance dial was normal or reverse but just realised i was way under amperage

    I was running at 135amps but just realised i needed to pump more amps into the job 4mm material needs 160amps or more

    Im not actually sure where i got the 135amp starting point it may have been when i last tig weldedthe 3mm 32nb tubing

    If my power point can handle the 160+ amps i will give it ago once i get some ppe

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    9

    Default Adding foot pedal

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Yes, I submitted my modification details and they were approved.
    In fact, my machine developed a fault with the motherboard that Deni and I went through trouble shooting and I ended up sending my machine back and promptly got a replacement. Obviously the fault had nothing to do with the pedal mod. So his world is reliable.
    I'll send you my mod details by PM.
    Hi Joe,
    I know this thread is a bit old but....

    I have just spoken with Deni and he referred me to "the forums" to gain this information and to "protect" himself as he should. Do you mind sharing the info with me as well. I have bought a few things from him and am happy and have just ordered my foot pedal and other stuff. Likewise he also offered to support his warranty, but mine is now about 2 years so that's not going to come back on him anyway.
    Cheers Cam

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Location
    Cairns
    Age
    32
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Yes, I submitted my modification details and they were approved.
    In fact, my machine developed a fault with the motherboard that Deni and I went through trouble shooting and I ended up sending my machine back and promptly got a replacement. Obviously the fault had nothing to do with the pedal mod. So his world is reliable.
    I'll send you my mod details by PM.


    Hi Joe I have both the AIG 200P pulse with a pedal and the original 200A non pulse. I would love to see how you installed the foot pedal. I keep that welder on my rural property and have found myself wanting a pedal on numerous occasions

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Not sure if i posted this video on MWF but here was my go at tig welding 4mm aluminium using the AIG cheaper basic ac/dc tig think it cost me $600 on ebay from AIG

    Pretty crap welds to much filler didnt feel comfortable in that position

    https://youtu.be/wIjnIzKNaI4

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