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Thread: weldsmart 2000ds parts
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10th Jul 2020, 09:25 PM #16Novice
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11th Jul 2020, 01:57 PM #17
weldsmart 2000ds parts- moved to Welding
Attempting to post Kimf's 3 pics of his wire drive.
Ok these are side mounts and the possible replacement is a bottom mount.
Regarding the insulation ,what comes immediately to mind is a piece of the PVC corner moulding used to cover the gap on a corner joint for fibre board which from memory is about 40 x 40 x 3mm.
The piece I used in the laundry has been in position for 20 years so it won't fall apart.
Watcha reckon guys?
Grahame
Wire drive no.3..jpgWire Drive No..jpgWire drive no 1.jpg
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11th Jul 2020, 02:32 PM #18Novice
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13th Jul 2020, 08:22 PM #19Novice
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13th Jul 2020, 09:45 PM #20
kimf,
I think you and I were considering crossed purposes.
I properly failed to convey my thoughts properly. My thoughts were about mounting and insulation of the potential replacement drive.
It was hard to envisage without pictures.
The use of the PVC angle was meant the connect from the original side mount points and connect with the bottom mount points used by the replacement drive.
Given the the body of the original is broken in so many places, I would be loathe to use it as it a matter of time until the next fracture. The oils have dried up out of the plastic. IF fiber glassed it would need to be a damn good job.
The compression of the spring to clamp the free drive roller puts a strain on the frame which the pivot arm takes the brunt of the force.
The PVC glue was meant to glue another thickness ( of PVC ) to be use as reinforce for the PVC angle as its a bit thin in the wall section.
Grahame
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13th Jul 2020, 10:19 PM #21Philomath in training
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I'd make the whole thing out of a lump of plastic, with perhaps some aluminium suitably placed to reinforce where the roller pressures are high.
Michael
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14th Jul 2020, 09:21 AM #22Novice
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14th Jul 2020, 08:58 PM #23
If you don't have the knowledge, skill, or tooling to fix in house (many won't), then it sounds like you have the perfect excuse for a buying new welder.
Or you could spend $100's of bucks and many man-hours 'potentially' fixing it.
The (probably unpopular in this forum) way I look at it is...
If you put a figure of, say, $150 on every hour you spend fart-arsing about on fixing an old bit of gear, you'd probably be ahead buying new.
By the time you do fix it (remembering this may not be possible after all your sunk time and investment!), then factoring in the cost of parts/materials, your valuable time on this mortal world, plus consider the alternative opportunity cost of say, doing a cashie on the side, working some O/T, spending some extra time with family, alphabetically organizing your stamp collection etc (I don't judge)... Then you would come out the end of it all with a new machine, years of trouble free welding ahead, and an asset out the other end you could possibly sell for 40-60% of it's new cost (brand depending)... as opposed to owning a problem waiting to re-occur.
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