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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Merriwa, NSW
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Kimf's issues seem to be with the mounting of a new BobtheWelder driver, where the original mounts differently to the replacement.

    One is side mounted at the other is bottom mounted.

    The insulation can be anything even a sawn up kitchen cutting board from BigW will do.

    The wire driver dimension from base to center line of the spool wire where it lines up with the gun cable entry will be the critical one through.

    For my part I have sorted all approvals and now the OP should be clear to post photos and soon as he gets the photo sizing sorted.

    Grahame
    yes fully insulated, and where the holes have to go, So I would say underneath the washers and the where the bolt has to pass through the metal frame.

    Tried to send Photos now down to 9kb and 200x150 format and still can't send.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default weldsmart 2000ds parts- moved to Welding

    Attempting to post Kimf's 3 pics of his wire drive.

    Ok these are side mounts and the possible replacement is a bottom mount.

    Regarding the insulation ,what comes immediately to mind is a piece of the PVC corner moulding used to cover the gap on a corner joint for fibre board which from memory is about 40 x 40 x 3mm.

    The piece I used in the laundry has been in position for 20 years so it won't fall apart.
    Watcha reckon guys?

    Grahame

    Wire drive no.3..jpgWire Drive No..jpgWire drive no 1.jpg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Merriwa, NSW
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Attempting to post Kimf's 3 pics of his wire drive.

    Ok these are side mounts and the possible replacement is a bottom mount.

    Regarding the insulation ,what comes immediately to mind is a piece of the PVC corner moulding used to cover the gap on a corner joint for fibre board which from memory is about 40 x 40 x 3mm.

    The piece I used in the laundry has been in position for 20 years so it won't fall apart.
    Watcha reckon guys?

    Grahame

    Wire drive no.3..jpgWire Drive No..jpgWire drive no 1.jpg
    Hi guys just be aware that the photos don't show about 4 other fractures in the plastic base. Its unusable as it stands.

    im

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Merriwa, NSW
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kimf View Post
    yes fully insulated, and where the holes have to go, So I would say underneath the washers and the where the bolt has to pass through the metal frame.

    Tried to send Photos now down to 9kb and 200x150 format and still can't send.
    I’ve seen Fiberglass used on plastic before. Do you think that would work after using plumbers PVC glue on the broken piece. I think it would be stronger, as well as reinforcing the other areas which are fractured also.

    Any thoughts

    Kim

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    kimf,
    I think you and I were considering crossed purposes.

    I properly failed to convey my thoughts properly. My thoughts were about mounting and insulation of the potential replacement drive.

    It was hard to envisage without pictures.

    The use of the PVC angle was meant the connect from the original side mount points and connect with the bottom mount points used by the replacement drive.

    Given the the body of the original is broken in so many places, I would be loathe to use it as it a matter of time until the next fracture. The oils have dried up out of the plastic. IF fiber glassed it would need to be a damn good job.

    The compression of the spring to clamp the free drive roller puts a strain on the frame which the pivot arm takes the brunt of the force.

    The PVC glue was meant to glue another thickness ( of PVC ) to be use as reinforce for the PVC angle as its a bit thin in the wall section.

    Grahame

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default

    I'd make the whole thing out of a lump of plastic, with perhaps some aluminium suitably placed to reinforce where the roller pressures are high.

    Michael

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Merriwa, NSW
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    kimf,
    I think you and I were considering crossed purposes.

    I properly failed to convey my thoughts properly. My thoughts were about mounting and insulation of the potential replacement drive.

    It was hard to envisage without pictures.

    The use of the PVC angle was meant the connect from the original side mount points and connect with the bottom mount points used by the replacement drive.

    Given the the body of the original is broken in so many places, I would be loathe to use it as it a matter of time until the next fracture. The oils have dried up out of the plastic. IF fiber glassed it would need to be a damn good job.

    The compression of the spring to clamp the free drive roller puts a strain on the frame which the pivot arm takes the brunt of the force.

    The PVC glue was meant to glue another thickness ( of PVC ) to be use as reinforce for the PVC angle as its a bit thin in the wall section.

    Grahame
    Bobthewelder said he couldn't find a suitable replacement, so I either have to repair or somehow get a new base made. Not sure what to do now as I have no capability of making one or the right tools here in the country.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kimf View Post
    Not sure what to do now as I have no capability of making one or the right tools here in the country.
    If you don't have the knowledge, skill, or tooling to fix in house (many won't), then it sounds like you have the perfect excuse for a buying new welder.
    Or you could spend $100's of bucks and many man-hours 'potentially' fixing it.

    The (probably unpopular in this forum) way I look at it is...
    If you put a figure of, say, $150 on every hour you spend fart-arsing about on fixing an old bit of gear, you'd probably be ahead buying new.
    By the time you do fix it (remembering this may not be possible after all your sunk time and investment!), then factoring in the cost of parts/materials, your valuable time on this mortal world, plus consider the alternative opportunity cost of say, doing a cashie on the side, working some O/T, spending some extra time with family, alphabetically organizing your stamp collection etc (I don't judge)... Then you would come out the end of it all with a new machine, years of trouble free welding ahead, and an asset out the other end you could possibly sell for 40-60% of it's new cost (brand depending)... as opposed to owning a problem waiting to re-occur.

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