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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,261

    Default How to extend these axles

    Hey guys more progress on the boat trailer finally got my spring hangers hung i dry test fit my velox deep dish disc hubs and they came up with no clearance

    What is the best way to extend the axles? Its mostly untill i can buy the proper length axles which may be a few months however need to get the trailer as a roller for now

    Have looked at shs 50x50x5mm sleeve but unsure if it will be enough strength

    A guy on the boat forum where im building the trailer suggested a weld pad than machine it on the lathe as a sleeve

    What would be the proper way? Need to extend it maybe 100mm
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,446

    Default

    How much extra is required to be able to fit the wheel on?
    Have seen where a heavy walled pipe 8mm thick, bent taking a small load of rubbish to the tip, so be extremely careful of what you do.
    Probably the only way would be to set it up as a dropped axle, where the stub axle is welded on top of the main axle. Welds need to be SPOT ON, suggest a qualified welder do this!!!
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    Bugger i will have to try find a couple new axles, needs to be extended 100mm wider

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    56
    Posts
    63

    Default

    To get the trailer as a roller 50x50x5 shs is more than enough.

    If you want to carry a load on a public road then that is a different story. Best to have a close look at any requirements set out in vsb1.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    Yeah im going to weld on the 50x50x5mm shs but i wont load the trailer untill i get the new axles i just cant risk a axle half going thru the boat hull and possibly writting off my new trailer thats cost close to a few grand

    Most need the trailer mobile so if i need to move it i can

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Hi Gazza
    Your question is probably better suited to the "Trailers and Other Fabricated Stuff" section where the trailer experts hang out, but I can't see where SHS would be any problem to you getting your trailer rolling. If your only rolling it around your yard, you may not need to anything as long as your wheels don't contact the frame, otherwise, you want at least 45mm clearance between the trailer frame and the inside of the tyre on each side.

    My father has a tandem trailer with two SHS axles and that had no problems whatsoever carrying my Nuffield 342 tractor with a loader fitted @ 1964kg + weight of the loader. Also, the trailer we made for my 6.5m GRP boat has 50X50 SHS axles that have been oiled inside and plug welded shut. So SHS should be strong enough if the extension is done properly. VSB1 doesn't say too much about axle construction except for capacity requirements:
    All axles in a group must be interconnected by a loadsharing suspension except in a close
    coupled axle group provided that the load carrying capacity of each axle in the group and the
    wheels and tyres fitted to it is:
    • at least 120% of the load on that axle with the trailer at its ATM; and
    • at least equal to the load on that axle with the trailer at its ATM and any
    retractable axle retracted.


    I can't tell if your existing axles are solid or tube, but there may be several options to extend what you have provided they have the required "120%" rating. Kryn suggested a drop axle set-up that would work okay if it doesn't cause you ground clearance problems (100mm+ required). If you were building an aircraft with a tube steel frame, it would be acceptable to extend a tube by sleeving it. In fact, I have a very old trailer axle that has been made exactly that way with 60mm tube in the centre with 50mm (2") tube for the last 300mm or so to the stubs. It has just been welded straight around where the tubes meet - presumably the smaller tube goes inside the other one for a few inches. There is no sight of cracking or it ever having been repaired despite the joining method. A tube sleeve (round section for best contact) over your axles attached with offset plug welds, with the sleeve cut at an angle or bird's mouthed at the end(s) could be very strong if done properly. However, that sort of thing may not be road legal in your state - better to check that first. HOWEVER, why not get yourself two lengths of SHS of appropriate size so that your existing axle diameter will fit inside, dissect your existing axles to give yourself some "stub axles" with backing plates attached and make yourself some new axles of the right length and forget about replacing them in a few months? Make sure that you can get U-Bolts to fit before committing to anything, but if 50X50 SHS fits, you shouldn't have too many problems. Here's an article to give you more of an idea about what I am suggesting: Trailer Sauce :: Building Trailer Axles

    Best of luck with your project.
    Simon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    I went with this design in my pic, yeah the trailer will likely be towed empty, two new axles about $200 the 50x50x5 steel is $100 i think i would rather just buy new axles to be safe
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    67
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    Default

    That's great to hear Gazza. With a bit of luck you might be able to get a few dollars back selling the old axles.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    Hey Kryn they are a bit rusty, when i bought them they were partly wrapped in plastic wrap and they sat in my car for over a month i just had no energy to take them out finally got them out and shed was jam packed so left the on the front lawn and it rained thay night just my luck

    Finally put them in the shed but was sparing with the wd40 and only coated the machined surface

    May try to sell them for $50 they cost about $150 a bit of a loss

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,446

    Default

    $50.00 is better than nothing.
    As long as the surface where the bearings and seals run is OK, light surface rust is nothing.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Nagambie vic
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I would go with the new axles and save all potential headaches. I’d be heartbroken to see any damage done to your trailer for the sake of trying to save time and a couple of hundred dollars. Also by leaving the short axles as they are then it makes them easier to sell. Who would want to buy “extended” axles? Not me How to extend these axles. Good luck with the project.

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