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  1. #1
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    Aug 2009
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    Default Finally getting somewhere with stick welding

    Had to play around with amps at first varying between 60-80amps 2.4mm or 2.6mm Gemini rods (no amp recommendation on packet) ended up at 75amps

    Welds look ok to me, what do u think? There is a bit of bite but any less amps i was getting cold welds

    This is 10mm rated trailer chain welding to 100x100x5mm shs
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Hi Gazza, thought we'd lost you, nice to see you back on.
    That weld looks really nice, just a tad to hot. Your weld should preferably have a slight convex (raised) shape to it, your's has a slight concave (dished) appearance to it.
    But apart from that, it's a top weld. CONGRATULATIONS
    When you can get the slag to peel off like a scorpion's tail, that's a WELD.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Kryn i still have trouble seeing the molten pool all i did today was try to keep my speed consistant along with arc length

    Im finding stick welding very easy to do but i have noticed turning down the welder just by 5-10 amps and its a complete reverse of to much heat to a cold weld

  4. #4
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    That shouldn't be the case, altering the amps that amount, should be hardly noticeable.
    What welder are you using, is it one of the newer electronic types?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Its a unimig arc 180, both sides of chains were welded this was another weld i ran that was less of a better appearance didnt upload these pics earlier because u fellas flog my attempts at welding
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  6. #6
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    There's nothing wrong with the welds there. My only suggestion, from a strength point is that next time I'd start at the open end of the RHS, as it leaves a lump there, which is a bit of extra strength. Ending the weld where you did, leaves a little crater, which could become a weak point. I'm not saying that it is, but could become one under stress.
    Another alternative is to hold the electrode/weld puddle a bit longer to allow it to build up a bit.
    Congratulations, you're getting there.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Yeah i did have that hole where the two welds meet i tried to fill it than left it as it was

    Found i weld better with my left hand so going right to left was easiest

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i still have trouble seeing the molten pool all i did today was try to keep my speed constant along with arc length
    You should be in a position to be able to see the end of the electrode, whilst welding. I've been known, as do some others, to bend the electrode to put it into a better more comfortable for the hands position.
    Whatever works for you. I'm that old, my shakes give the welds a natural weaving action.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Yeah im pretty shakey the electrode moves about 4mm each way but i try to loosen my grip and relax a little

    Grabbing the arc welder is so effortless but getting the mig out or firing up the ac tig is just a pain in the ass the mig is in a bag and feels like its 50kg than setting it all up... grabbing the arc welder is a box and 3 cables that probably weigh 6kg and sets up in about 2mins no fuss at all

    I think im leaning towards arc welding for most things now

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    452

    Default shakey welding

    Hello to gazza.
    At 65 I'm getting too old for good welding. I need a 1.5D magnifier lens as well as my specs. To get rid of electrode shake I use 50mm of broom handle. Bore it 5mm and chamfer the working end. I hold this in my left hand and pass the electrode thru it leaving 25mm protruding. The rod no longer wanders where it will.
    Paying for the best electrodes makes a difference. Cheap rods = cheap welding.
    BC

  11. #11
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    Hey Steam i think my electrode shake is partly holding the torch to tightly i need to settle down and relax but i hate grinding down welds so i get a little over excited

    Im doing some welding today need to joing some 6mm plate doing a seam weld than another chain link weld

    Will post pics if it turns out ok

  12. #12
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    Professional lawn mowing guy in hes 50's was just next door looking over the fence laughing at my welding attemps
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  13. #13
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    Nov 2019
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    Default Welding effort

    Hello again Gazza.
    With the butt weld. You ground the rust off the old plate but not the millscale off the new plate. it is hard to grind with an alox wheel so I suggest a masonry wheel or Zec disc. They have sil carb grain which is harder. As soon as the scale is gone go back to the alox wheel.
    The butt weld should be prepped 30 deg each side and leave a small root gap, 1 to 1.5mm. Your electrode angle is too low giving arrow heads in the weld. lift it up to 15 deg off vertical. Rather than 1 stringer bead try back stepping at 50mm intervals.
    Lots of info on the net to read.
    Regards
    BC

  14. #14
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    Default

    I thought all new steel from the shop is ready to weld i didnt know i had to grind back new steel bugger

  15. #15
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I thought all new steel from the shop is ready to weld i didnt know i had to grind back new steel bugger
    Nice work gazza, good to see some hot welds
    Yes - while you can weld through paint, millscale, rust etc. You will get a better weld if you grind back to shiny metal on both sides - you will get better weld consistency, the toe of the welds will wet in better, and the slag will come off easier.
    With your tacks - try and burn into the V of the joint rather than bridging top to bottom. Otherwise you will have a void there that is hard to get rid of without grinding the tack out.

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