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16th Feb 2020, 11:53 AM #1Most Valued Member
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Finally getting somewhere with stick welding
Had to play around with amps at first varying between 60-80amps 2.4mm or 2.6mm Gemini rods (no amp recommendation on packet) ended up at 75amps
Welds look ok to me, what do u think? There is a bit of bite but any less amps i was getting cold welds
This is 10mm rated trailer chain welding to 100x100x5mm shs
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16th Feb 2020, 12:25 PM #2Most Valued Member
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Hi Gazza, thought we'd lost you, nice to see you back on.
That weld looks really nice, just a tad to hot. Your weld should preferably have a slight convex (raised) shape to it, your's has a slight concave (dished) appearance to it.
But apart from that, it's a top weld. CONGRATULATIONS
When you can get the slag to peel off like a scorpion's tail, that's a WELD.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Feb 2020, 12:47 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Thanks Kryn i still have trouble seeing the molten pool all i did today was try to keep my speed consistant along with arc length
Im finding stick welding very easy to do but i have noticed turning down the welder just by 5-10 amps and its a complete reverse of to much heat to a cold weld
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16th Feb 2020, 04:34 PM #4Most Valued Member
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That shouldn't be the case, altering the amps that amount, should be hardly noticeable.
What welder are you using, is it one of the newer electronic types?
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Feb 2020, 04:45 PM #5Most Valued Member
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Its a unimig arc 180, both sides of chains were welded this was another weld i ran that was less of a better appearance didnt upload these pics earlier because u fellas flog my attempts at welding
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16th Feb 2020, 05:36 PM #6Most Valued Member
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There's nothing wrong with the welds there. My only suggestion, from a strength point is that next time I'd start at the open end of the RHS, as it leaves a lump there, which is a bit of extra strength. Ending the weld where you did, leaves a little crater, which could become a weak point. I'm not saying that it is, but could become one under stress.
Another alternative is to hold the electrode/weld puddle a bit longer to allow it to build up a bit.
Congratulations, you're getting there.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Feb 2020, 05:39 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Yeah i did have that hole where the two welds meet i tried to fill it than left it as it was
Found i weld better with my left hand so going right to left was easiest
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16th Feb 2020, 05:47 PM #8Most Valued Member
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You should be in a position to be able to see the end of the electrode, whilst welding. I've been known, as do some others, to bend the electrode to put it into a better more comfortable for the hands position.
Whatever works for you. I'm that old, my shakes give the welds a natural weaving action.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Feb 2020, 07:41 PM #9Most Valued Member
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Yeah im pretty shakey the electrode moves about 4mm each way but i try to loosen my grip and relax a little
Grabbing the arc welder is so effortless but getting the mig out or firing up the ac tig is just a pain in the ass the mig is in a bag and feels like its 50kg than setting it all up... grabbing the arc welder is a box and 3 cables that probably weigh 6kg and sets up in about 2mins no fuss at all
I think im leaning towards arc welding for most things now
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22nd Feb 2020, 10:20 AM #10Senior Member
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shakey welding
Hello to gazza.
At 65 I'm getting too old for good welding. I need a 1.5D magnifier lens as well as my specs. To get rid of electrode shake I use 50mm of broom handle. Bore it 5mm and chamfer the working end. I hold this in my left hand and pass the electrode thru it leaving 25mm protruding. The rod no longer wanders where it will.
Paying for the best electrodes makes a difference. Cheap rods = cheap welding.
BC
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22nd Feb 2020, 11:34 AM #11Most Valued Member
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Hey Steam i think my electrode shake is partly holding the torch to tightly i need to settle down and relax but i hate grinding down welds so i get a little over excited
Im doing some welding today need to joing some 6mm plate doing a seam weld than another chain link weld
Will post pics if it turns out ok
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22nd Feb 2020, 01:53 PM #12Most Valued Member
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Professional lawn mowing guy in hes 50's was just next door looking over the fence laughing at my welding attemps
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22nd Feb 2020, 03:49 PM #13Senior Member
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Welding effort
Hello again Gazza.
With the butt weld. You ground the rust off the old plate but not the millscale off the new plate. it is hard to grind with an alox wheel so I suggest a masonry wheel or Zec disc. They have sil carb grain which is harder. As soon as the scale is gone go back to the alox wheel.
The butt weld should be prepped 30 deg each side and leave a small root gap, 1 to 1.5mm. Your electrode angle is too low giving arrow heads in the weld. lift it up to 15 deg off vertical. Rather than 1 stringer bead try back stepping at 50mm intervals.
Lots of info on the net to read.
Regards
BC
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22nd Feb 2020, 04:41 PM #14Most Valued Member
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I thought all new steel from the shop is ready to weld i didnt know i had to grind back new steel bugger
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24th Mar 2020, 08:12 AM #15Golden Member
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Nice work gazza, good to see some hot welds
Yes - while you can weld through paint, millscale, rust etc. You will get a better weld if you grind back to shiny metal on both sides - you will get better weld consistency, the toe of the welds will wet in better, and the slag will come off easier.
With your tacks - try and burn into the V of the joint rather than bridging top to bottom. Otherwise you will have a void there that is hard to get rid of without grinding the tack out.
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