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  1. #1
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    Default Its time for a TIG, but what options?

    Evening

    Having had almost nothing to do with TIG welding for around 30 years I've decided its time for me to buy one. I know the basics though all my welding was on transformer based machines, only one having amperage control on the hand piece(though I barely remember using it).
    I want high Freq
    I want to weld Alum
    Token Tools gets a thumbs up from a few around here.
    Plasma is a bonus
    So this looks the part
    https://weldingstore.tokentools.com....elite-digital/
    My questions really start with the options.
    Never used a flex head, for the extra $10 is it a no brainer? or is there a trap I don't know about with them?
    As most of the welding I see myself doing will be on the light side I was thinking about adding 9 series torch.
    I assume foot control is the way to go???

    Reg, Gas and some rods and I am good to go, or have I forgotten something?





  2. #2
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    Mar 2009
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    Default

    Add a pair of tig gloves to the list and if you have an auto helmet make sure you can adjust the shade beyond 9 as tig is brighter than stick or mig, particularly on ally.

    I'd recommend using a gas lense over a standard nozzle/cup, not essential but allows you to stick the electrode out further which can make life easier getting into tight spots.

    Get an assortment of electrode types, ceriated for steel and zirconiated for ally. Thoriated scare my testicles so I give them a miss and I've not had a lot of luck with rare earths but that may well be something I'm doing wrong.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Yep the little 9 torch is the go for probably 90% of steel but could be on the lacking for Al as you need much higher amps, personally I went for a 20 series(same as a 9) with a matching water cooler I can keep that sucker pegged until the tig machine calls it quits!(hasn't happened yet...)
    Flex head would be handy for tight spots but a button back cap and a small gas lense is tiny enough on a 9 series, I would suggest steering clear of a bulky euro handle and go for a yanky straight sleeve with a micro switch zip tied to it for when the foot pedal is not practical.
    I use 2% lathinated electrodes for everything 1.6mm for most welding and 3.2mm for 120 amps plus(like on Al), I personally think matching rod thickness to material is more important than electrode dia unless your intending working to aerospace specs.
    So grab an assortment of rod dia for steel, buy a small spool of mig wire for the thin stuff and some 1kg packs of 1.6, 2.4 and 3.2 ER70S2 or S6, the thickness has a big effect on puddle cooling.
    ....................................................................

  4. #4
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Second a decent pair of TIG gloves,

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I assume foot control is the way to go???
    FWIW I bought the pedal and have used it once in 3 years.

    RE Thoriated Tungsten Electrodes.
    Different if it was TIG shop with lots of TIG welders operating all day and year with Thoriated electrodes, but for DIY use I'd be more concerned about other things like, Chromium oxide generated when welding SS, and other fumes.
    All welding, even TIG generates fumes and particulates - maybe consider getting yourself an exhaust fan?

    Thorium is an alpha emitter which are stopped by a few cm of air or the outermost dead layers of your skin skin and even if it gets inside of you it has very low activity (half life of 14.05 billion years, about the age of the Universe).

    The internal inhalation/ingestion risks come from two sources, dust from electrode tip grinding and fumes from eroding of the tip when welding. This has been studied in some detail and it was found that professional TIG welders (welding for 2000 hours a year) are exposed to between 1 and 21% of the maximum permissible radiation dose for industrial workers. Of course this does not take into account that some welders could accidentally overdose by eg working in significantly more confined spaces. For this reason they are being phased out in some countries.

    Of course if you have a purchasing choice between by thoriated on non-thoriated electrodes then you might as well buy non-thoriated but if for example you come across thoriated electrodes for free then using them in a DIY situation should present a low risk relative to other things that go on in a DIY welding situation.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Re plasma being a bonus, my experience is that it's a PITA to change out the torch from TIG to plasma and swap from gas to compressed air for cutting. My TIG has plasma function but I've only used it twice.
    I've now got a cheap Aldi plasma. Plug in and cut - done!

    If you're planning any stainless work get a small stainless wire brush for brushing off the oxides as the job cools. Dedicate it to stainless work and label it so it doesn't get contaminated with other crap.
    I've got one for stainless and one for aluminium.

    Steve

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Canberra
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    Default

    My accumulated wisdom - you only need one type of tungsten: 2% lanthinated, you only need one size: 3.2mm (since they're sharpened to a point).

  7. #7
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    Newcastle, AU
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    Default

    I have arthritis in the hands and find the flex head to be massively helpful - sometimes my hands/wrists don't want to bend a certain way and being able to contort the head to work around that is very helpful.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Default Tig welding

    Hello JC.
    I have a few customers with the same problem and I suggest fitting a cheap lever operated switch that attaches with cable ties. You can rotate the switch around the handle to get comfortable. I would suggest smaller tungstens for lower current as the arc carona will be more stable and when you grind the tip it is a cheaper item you shorten. A short back cap gets better access and is better that cheap flex head torches. They can't take the pace if you run them hot.
    Regards
    BC

  9. #9
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    Default

    Hmmm perhaps I should have said "Once upon a time I knew the basics". I'm sure there was only two types of tungsten back then lol


    Thanks all, Lots to think about and chase up.(I started a longer reply but its doing my head in)

    Tig gloves are just like riggers gloves with a cuff?

    I've heard of gas lense but never used. I'll add kits for whatever torches I end up with.

    Are tig fingers as handy as youtube make them out? Still for $9 how bad could they be?

    I dont foresee doing large amounts of high amp work(certainly not in a hurry)

    I do have some TIG torches around here some place I will have to dig them out. $10 says they have the wrong plug.

    I see that you are saying about two machines but I'm more pushed for space than I used to be. I wonder if it would be possible to rig up some valves/quick connects to make change over faster?

    I knew you needed to keep your SS stuff separate..... I just forgot is all



  10. #10
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Tig gloves are just like riggers gloves with a cuff?
    It depends on the riggers gloves.
    My TIG gloves have quite good feel through them and a cuff that comes about half way up the elbow.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Tig gloves are just like riggers gloves with a cuff?
    Not quite. Tig gloves are relatively thin, on the basis that thick gloves would hamper manipulating the filler wire. It may be that you need to buy a few different pairs and see which ones suit.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I've heard of gas lense but never used. I'll add kits for whatever torches I end up with.
    They are certainly not essential. Yes, they make things easier in some cases but in others make little difference. Again, will depend on what you plan to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Are tig fingers as handy as youtube make them out? Still for $9 how bad could they be?
    I have a couple and have not used them in the 12 months I've had them. I find that in most cases I don't rest my hand on the job being welded, either because I can't or it's too hot. Certainly get one to try out if you wish, but like the gas lens, it will depend on what you are doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I see that you are saying about two machines but I'm more pushed for space than I used to be. I wonder if it would be possible to rig up some valves/quick connects to make change over faster?
    The key thing will be air in your gas line, so every time you change you will need to make sure you purge the line properly - otherwise you will burn up tungstens.

    HTH Michael

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    FWIW I bought the pedal and have used it once in 3 years.
    Am I right in assuming you don't have amp control on the torch?


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Not quite. Tig gloves are relatively thin, on the basis that thick gloves would hamper manipulating the filler wire. It may be that you need to buy a few different pairs and see which ones suit.
    We used to tig with the same gloves we miged with, so now I know why I was never that great with filler. I did enjoy fusion end welding with no filler.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    They are certainly not essential. Yes, they make things easier in some cases but in others make little difference. Again, will depend on what you plan to do.
    Don't have anything super hard planned but you never know. I cant see myself trying to make a "stack of dimes" anytime soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    The key thing will be air in your gas line, so every time you change you will need to make sure you purge the line properly - otherwise you will burn up tungstens.
    Failing that I wonder how much another gas solenoid would cost? Starting to sound like a project I will never get around to. If I find I use the plasma enough I might just buy a cheapy. Though with a pretty quick look I couldn't find a cheap one with pilot arch, if that is indeed as handy as they say. No idea, only ever used plasma on a cutting table with new sheet. Then there is the whole "finding some where to put it" thing.

    These are the torches I have. Of course they use a different plug. Also two torch kits that strangely don't actually fit those torches(except one stray collet). In fact they look like they might fit the new torches. Still if I can get/make an adapter I have the high amp rigid head side of things covered. So I might go with flex heads on the new ones. WOW I am starting to make it sound like I will be welding 12 hours a day!

    Wasn't in a hurry to buy, was going to wait until the Christmas rush was over, now I dont have a choice, they are closed until 13th Jan
    I guess it will give me time to loose enough weight to fit into my welding jacket again lol
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    ...FWIW I bought the pedal and have used it once in 3 years...

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Am I right in assuming you don't have amp control on the torch?
    I once had a professional welder tell me that you only 'need' some form of real time amperage control for Al, simply because all other metals don't suck heat out so quickly. For us happy amateurs, I would suggest that something, whether a pedal or thumb control, is necessary while we develop the ability to do without.


    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    ... I couldn't find a cheap one with pilot arc, if that is indeed as handy as they say. No idea, only ever used plasma on a cutting table with new sheet
    Pilot arc is another of those nice to have things. I have a plasma cutter with a drag tip and it works fine. A pilot arc will just mean that you don't have to have direct tip to metal contact to start. Does that matter? I imagine not unless you are doing lots and lots of cutting. I find my cutter handy but realistically probably use it far less than 10hrs p.a., so for me pilot arc is not something I would go out and chase. (I got this cutter secondhand for a job I did some years back - I would not have even bought it if not for that.)

    Michael

  14. #14
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    Can't say I don't move fast

    Having ummed and arrred for the best part of a year and talked a guys ear off, I decided with many of these things some people are going to like them, some aren't and there is no way to know in advance which I would use and which I wouldn't..........So my solution was just to ticked every box. Ordered Saturday afternoon (posted Monday), arrived today.

    Thanks to all for your input

    Now to find out after 30 years I cant TIG weld anymore.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
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    What did you end up with Stu?
    I bought one recently too: an AIG 200T
    AC-DC, pilot arc and very happy with it so far.
    They were very good to deal with and have allowed me to modify the connector and internal connection to fit a pedal to it without voiding the warranty.
    Can't get better than that....

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

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