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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    4

    Default Looking for a welder manual, GIG/NZIG Transtig 250EC

    Hi all,

    Just picked up one of these and am looking for a manual for it. Doesn't seem to be much out there, would anyone have a copy of this manual loafing?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Not sure if this is of any use but I got sent this link ages ago from Cigweld

    Operating Manuals (Public) - Cutting And Welding Support Site

    Looks like these should be the ones for your machine

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...mZZNmJ0SkVUN28

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    The above manual should be Ok.

    The Transtig series were re badged EMF units in the main.There are links to Transtig 250 's on the WW side, but no Transtig 250 E,s which were quite different.

    Grahame

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    4

    Default Thanks, manual helps...

    Just picked it up, comes with foot pedal and water cooled torch (I think it's an 18).

    Very funny, the fella apparently wasn't aware his boys had listed it so was particularly unhappy and unwilling to facilitate the sale...

    I got it for NZ$61 so not bad money, but the bad bits are coming;

    Some fool had set the torch connections up wrong and was using the gas line and power cable fittings as the water return line for the cooling water - as expected this has rotted the power cable out which is what looks like the major reason for the sale (boys thought the power source was stuffed...).

    It does work (burnt a gp rod in DC mode) but does seem to be somewhat down on power, so I'm thinking the internal contactors and rotary polarity switch possibly need a look at - can't see anything else wrong that would cause that but also haven't looked at rectifiers or transformers yet either.

    Next question, in addition to the user manual listed, would anyone have access to the service section of Cigwelds drive, or a copy of the wiring schematic for this welder?

    Thanks for your help!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    I found this

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...Ac-Dc-205.html

    While it is not a 250 AC/DC E there is a circuit diagram may have some points of similarity.
    This is as high as the models get - in amps- then it stops. Why?

    Maybe at this point the machine was produced by someone else other than Murex, -being that Cigweld - sold it as a re badge.

    I am pretty sure that CIGWELD had machines by makers other than Murex that were rebadged as CIGWELD. You will soon find out when you open it.

    Grahame

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks, seem to have fixed the issue with low amps, not only got all or nothing... Amusing but we seem to have found the culprit, current pot.

    That tig torch does seem to be set up correctly, never set one up or taken one apart so it's a bit of a surprise to find that the unshielded power flex is saturated with water in normal operation. Obviously that's a limited-service-life item!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    You might want to investigate that water in the cable thing a bit further.
    In the eighties I worked as a welding tradesman at Queensland Alumina Limited,Gladstone. One of my jobs was to use a 350 amp tig - 9mm tungsten for depositing stellite hard facing on the faces of valves.

    Long story made short is that the Tig torch handle was water cooled and that the water also water cooled a fuse.This was close to the machine end of the cable.

    If the water was cut off for any reason the fuse blew. Much cheaper than a water cooled tig handpiece . I wore an air supplied shield that was covered in something like the old army great coat material. The work was performed under a huge cone to pull the stellite fumes away.

    Yes it was the called the Cone of Silence( remember Maxwell Smart) but there was nothing silent about it

    We took it it in turns as it was horrific in summer.

    Any way its my long winded way of saying that there "might" be a blown fuse in that cable if you cant get power to your torch.

    Grahame

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    You might want to investigate that water in the cable thing a bit further.
    In the eighties I worked as a welding tradesman at Queensland Alumina Limited,Gladstone. One of my jobs was to use a 350 amp tig - 9mm tungsten for depositing stellite hard facing on the faces of valves.

    Long story made short is that the Tig torch handle was water cooled and that the water also water cooled a fuse.This was close to the machine end of the cable.

    If the water was cut off for any reason the fuse blew. Much cheaper than a water cooled tig handpiece . I wore an air supplied shield that was covered in something like the old army great coat material. The work was performed under a huge cone to pull the stellite fumes away.

    Yes it was the called the Cone of Silence( remember Maxwell Smart) but there was nothing silent about it

    We took it it in turns as it was horrific in summer.

    Any way its my long winded way of saying that there "might" be a blown fuse in that cable if you cant get power to your torch.

    Grahame
    Sounds like an interesting job...

    Fairly sure I'm onto the issue with this cable, machine is working fine now in DC SMAW/MMA mode (got some lolly though!). High resistance across the cable, like meter flicking between 0 continuity to some ridiculous mega-Ohm value. Coroner got involved, put the cable under the knife and cut the rubber hose free and the internal braid conductor is U/S - I'd suggest it's a consequence of running the thing total loss on our heavily chlorinated domestic water supply with an unprotected copper braided cable... The cable was basically rotten through at the machine connector crimp, the 5/8 fitting end. Broke it off completely by giving it a sharp tug.

    Source another water cooled torch setup and I should be good to go.

    Thanks for the help, interesting project and a good machine at the end of it I think. Would be interested to locate a pulser unit for one of these - purely for toy value of course!!!

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