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  1. #1
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    Default Unimig mig 120 synergic under $300!!!

    Holly molly they are really bringing out some modern technology if these little machines work anything like the razors these will be a massive hit

    https://sydneytools.com.au/product/u...iABEgJQo_D_BwE

  2. #2
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    It has a stated 10% duty cycle.
    Makes it one step from useless...

    Michael

  3. #3
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    Your missing the point tho at a entry level machine it would be good for car body work etc.. not everyone runs a 3 meter weld over 10mins it would be really good for beginners i personally would have found this fantastic for stress free frinding settings

    Its only a 120amp machine but i think its pathing the way for the future

  4. #4
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    To put it in perspective-
    a 10% duty cycle at 120A is equivalent to a 1 minute weld at full output before it hits overload. This is not a timer, it's relative to the welder's ability to create and dissipate the heat as it converts 240V AC into DC welding power. I might also note it's not that efficient at doing that, but horses for courses.

    I wonder what the synergic dial does.
    Their user manual says that if voltage is too high, adjust synergic dial. Also says that if wire speed is too high, adjust synergic dial... got me buggered what it actually does if it can be used for BOTH .
    Usually these dials are a voltage trim, taking a fraction of a volt out of the whole ordeal for a given Volt/wirespeed combo for that synergic setting. Maybe they've created a third variable in the welding parameters that it adjusts

  5. #5
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    Com i think they are trying to say it as easy as possible for a beginner to understand maybe a beginner would be to eager and ramp up the dial on thin material instead of saying lover the voltage as it has no setting they are saying lower the wire feed as u can actually see the wire feed as the machine is syingic voltage is taking out of the equasion as a step for beginners to forget about

    Yeah 10% duty cycle at 120amps is nothing but u guys are probably running meters on meters continous at 300amps at work

    A newby will like run a 100mm bead sit back and think about it for 5mins than run another 100mm bead.. its only a light machine so likely new people entering the scene may just want to knock together some metal gates or build a letter box in cases like this they may never reach the duty cycle

    I think it is a really good entey level machine its priced very well for what it is and its market

    Your paying $200 $300 for ebay junk so thats something to consider, i personally think this model will be a massive hit

  6. #6
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    I am sure it will catch a lot of weekend warriors, but let's put this into some perspective. $299 is around what you should pay for a 180A inverter stick welder, so a $299 synergic MIG is going to be very suspect to say the least. Secondly, I highly doubt that it is a truly Synergic machine and I will bear my behind in Myers window if it can run Aluminium, Stainless and Steel wires with all suitable gasses.
    Even for bodywork it is undergunned.

  7. #7
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    Hey Karl it only does steel/stainless steel no aluminium, i just opened up the miller calculator and seen the welder will only be good to 2mm thickness of material that should still be ok for a weekend warrior building bird cages or working on car panels or general repairs around the home, would have been brilliant if it done 3mm 4mm material but it is only a little cheap entry level machine, the bit that caught my eye was the simplicity because i struggled to comprehend my mig settings with multiple combo settings this little mig is set and and away u go pretty much

  8. #8
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    As long as you go in knowing what you are paying. You are not buying a machine for the long term. Use it, break it, throw it.

    I tested a mates little 10A magmate machine the other week, that was 145A, about the $450 mark if I was not mistaken. Despite it feeling chintzy, I was pleasantly surprised that it could run a decent bead all things considered. Did a nice 3 pass fillet on some 3mm mild. Most of the underpowered machines can be lifted by some sensible joint design...

  9. #9
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    One of the things I dislike about these cheaper home MIG units is that they give the impression that welding is easy - just point and pull the trigger. As many experienced welders will tell you, MIG is one of the easiest welding processes to get fooled by. Can look good on top but no real joint strength underneath. I don't want to be driving behind someone who has welded their car up with one of these and with no experience found it 'easy'.

    There is no such thing as a welding power supply that does the thinking for you. The reason that industrial supplies have 'so many settings' is that they are needed to cope with the variations that are present. Welding is one of the more technically challenging trades, and requires years of practice to get the coordination between hand, eye and brain. Some people never get it, but a good welder gets better with time as they are always learning and thinking about where the heat is going (or however they think about it).

    I have a 130A stick welding supply (cost me around $150 second hand) that has a 20% duty cycle at that current rating. That's your run a 100mm bead sit back and think about it for 5mins than run another 100mm bead... (although even waiting 5 minutes between welds is a bit long) A 10% duty cycle means waiting for 10 minutes. Good luck not getting frustrated by that.

    Michael

  10. #10
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Some people never get it, but a good welder gets better with time as they are always learning and thinking about where the heat is going (or however they think about it).
    Whenever he is around I try to talk about welding with my BIL boilermaker/boat builder. He likes to take a lot of photos of what he does and he he really explains in some detail how he does his stuff and I find it fascinating. He started his trade in the early 1970's so he's looking at 45 odd years of welding experience. For about 10 years he ran a one man boat building business making boats up to 7m long. Apart from the cutting of the Al sheet which was done off site, he did almost everything else himself, forming, welding, mechanicals, electrics, and even some of the painting and upholstery. Most of what he makes has very smooth curves and lines not only in 2D but also 3D which I guess is typical of most boat stuff..

    For the last 10 years he's been a leading welder/inspector at a local shipyard and one of his jobs is finding / fixing other welders stuff ups - often involving missed welds in very awkward places. He's thin as a rake and very flexible so he can get into small spaces and operate a MIG on the end of pole. Recently he told me he has learned more from fixing up mistakes in the last few years than he learned in the decades before that. The other thing he is a wizard at is getting the dents out of formed ally plate with an oxy and a wet rag . One of the reasons he told me that he can do this is because he from his welding knowledge/experience has a deep understanding of where the heat goes and what it does. He's about to retire, I just hope enough of the tradies and apprentices he has worked with have taken notice of what he's told them.

  11. #11
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    As an example of what MichaelG is saying, I have some pictures of a Mig weld that looked OK but actually was terrible. I know people on here are a bit scathing of weldingweb which is an american site but they constantly go on about how dangerous small migs are for this reason. I think they might have even smaller welders due to the limitations of 110v mains.

    The attached picture is actually three separate pictures. The left part shows me holding the bad weld back in place. it has already broken away and is just held in place there, but you get the idea it looked reasonable. This was a 170 amp tack weld but because my earth clamp had cracked, it was limiting the current and I hadn't noticed. Its very easy to get the same type of thing with a small welder not capable of delivering enough current.

    Just before this I found a long mig weld which looked great but snapped off easily like this when I was "adjusting" a part I was building. I hadn't figured out what was wrong until it happened again in the photo and what gave the game away was the earth clamp burnt me because it was so hot. It was then I could see it was cracked most of the way through. It was an old brass clamp.
    It worry's me a lot too, how many trailers there are out there which are not welded well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Hey Karl it only does steel/stainless steel no aluminium, i just opened up the miller calculator and seen the welder will only be good to 2mm thickness of material that should still be ok for a weekend warrior building bird cages or working on car panels or general repairs around the home, would have been brilliant if it done 3mm 4mm material but it is only a little cheap entry level machine, the bit that caught my eye was the simplicity because i struggled to comprehend my mig settings with multiple combo settings this little mig is set and and away u go pretty much
    Synergic machines only get you in the ballpark. You still need to be able to fine tune the arc, so the same knowledge base applies to them as a straight MIG welder. Using your 2mm theoretical limit, that would make welding say 40NB pipe to a 5mm flat bar a very borderline operation, building a trailer would be impossible and and all but the smallest gates would be a chore. An absolute toy designed to attract the unknowing with gimicks.
    You don't need a 400A three phase machine by any stretch of the imagination, but 120A really doesn't cut it. At that price, the build quality and materials will be very suspect as well.

  13. #13
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    ".Simply set your wire size, adjust the Synergic power knob and the VIPER 120 SYNERGIC does the rest!"

    How do you adjust wire speed when you go from down hand to vertical up or any other position.
    The spec says 2 to 6mm. Enough prep and you might do 6mm but it would be a very short run before the 10% duty cycle kicks in and your off making a cuppa while you waiting for the welder cool.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sossity View Post
    As an example of what MichaelG is saying, I have some pictures of a Mig weld that looked OK but actually was terrible. I know people on here are a bit scathing of weldingweb which is an american site but they constantly go on about how dangerous small migs are for this reason. I think they might have even smaller welders due to the limitations of 110v mains.

    The attached picture is actually three separate pictures. The left part shows me holding the bad weld back in place. it has already broken away and is just held in place there, but you get the idea it looked reasonable. This was a 170 amp tack weld but because my earth clamp had cracked, it was limiting the current and I hadn't noticed. Its very easy to get the same type of thing with a small welder not capable of delivering enough current.

    Just before this I found a long mig weld which looked great but snapped off easily like this when I was "adjusting" a part I was building. I hadn't figured out what was wrong until it happened again in the photo and what gave the game away was the earth clamp burnt me because it was so hot. It was then I could see it was cracked most of the way through. It was an old brass clamp.
    It worry's me a lot too, how many trailers there are out there which are not welded well.
    What you have shown there is operator error, this is common in industry too, i've seen it for the last 15 years. We use MIGS worth over $10000 and it still happens. Most common cause of that is tacking without a helmet. When I am tacking using I will push up to make sure it penetrates properly.

  15. #15
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    UniMig have posted a promo video of this welder - shot in someone's back yard and a workshop, they show it welding sheet and profiles that look to be in the 1 to 1.6 mm range, which is probably where it's suited. The panel seems to offer a choice of wire size of 0.6, 0.8 and 0.9mm, the last seeming a bit ambitious, and then a single "synergic" dial that goes from 1 to 10 synergics. As an owner of 2 UniMig machines, my first concern is that it has no "Jasic" branding, which both my machines have, and is an indicator, to me, that it's come from one of the better Chinese factories. Its absence is a bit of a concern, but then again, this machine isn't aimed at me.

    So if you have a spare 50 seconds, check it out. Comments for the video, unfortunately, are turned off.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqI87ldtODI

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