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Thread: Arc Welding, Slag from Weld
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14th Oct 2019, 08:45 PM #16
I'm no expert, but I'm not usually looking at the position of the rod to the weld puddle. I'm also looking at how the weld wets the edge of the joint.
I'll preface this all with the quality of the helmet gives a world of difference here.
If you can forego the autochange function, a decent fixed shade gold coated omni-view lens and pipeliner helmet can be had for under 50 clams. A well timed flick of the outer lens is not to be underestimated. Most sub $300 autochange helmets are rubbish IMO. Even more so if it's a model where you are supplied with 1 set of inner and outer lenses, with no hope of getting more.
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14th Oct 2019, 09:17 PM #17Most Valued Member
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That is exactly what i see, the ripples behind the arc and i think that is the weld pool height and width than when i finish and knock off the slag its no where that size so its kind of hard to judge while welding how the weld will appear for me, kind of like when u let the slag cool and crack like waiting for a Christmas present as a kid untill u break it openand either go wooha or nahhh lol i guess i will keep practicing if i do pick up a better appearance i nthe bead tomorrow i'll check in with pics
Edit: Hey Com my helmet is just a cheapie mate its this one https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/w...r-with-led-j61 i have not had much luck with helmets my first one was from ebay the pets chewed it up, the one above is my second one the dogs chewed that one as well when it was 2 days old and cost like $80 i was guttered than had to salvage the head harness from the old one onto the new one
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14th Oct 2019, 10:57 PM #18Golden Member
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6013 GP rods generally have very runny slag and if your electrode angle is too steep the slag can get in front of the weld which is a common cause of inclusions. These are similar to what you have on the left end of your last photo, although I suspect that was caused by a bit of slag left in the corner of the previous run. If you're doing a high build pass with 6013 rods, keep your electrode angle below 45 degrees where possible and the arc force will keep the slag behind the weld.
You can weld over rust with stick but you will get better results, including easier strikes, if you clean the weld area. Twenty seconds cleaning with a grinder before a weld beats five minutes grinding out cocky crap all day long in my book. For restarts, make sure you give the previous run a good wire brush first to remove any stray lumps of slag.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Greg.
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14th Oct 2019, 11:34 PM #19Most Valued Member
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Thanks Greg im taking notes, i had cut off the cold mig welds before i stick welded it so it was a little clean but not entirely perfect and yeah i hear about the runny slag i tried welding down hill on maybe 10 degrees the slag just made a mess i than welded up hill 10 degrees and it was very easy to keep the slag from running
I kind of like this arc welding wish i had a decent machine years ago i am actually seeing positive results that i can actually stick weld just need practice
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17th Oct 2019, 06:55 PM #20Most Valued Member
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got the stick welder out this afternoon and cut out the rest of my mig welds, started off great laying down multiple stacked beads i found worked better than zig zag it was less prone to my newby hands and getting the slag stuck in the weld than for some reason the welder had lost its edge i donno what happen the arc was soft and light it was still lighting up and had a nice cherry pool of swirling i have finally worked out the molten pool but it is very hard to see i really need to focus to see it
right at the end i had to keep grinding one weld and it had me baffled i just had no idea why the heck it kept getting the slag right thru the weld, the area was clean and ground back i assumed it was my stick angle i tried to tilt it 10 degrees in front of the direction i tried to keep it angled even between both pieces, i had the rod 1 rod thickness away from the pool while welding just could not work it out
than finally it struck me to turn up the amps i was currently at the max rated amps by the manufacturer 80amps i bumped it to 90amps and wow it really woke up the machine and finally i was back on track
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17th Oct 2019, 07:53 PM #21Diamond Member
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I find sometimes, if one weld changes over time, the earth clamp has slipped, making a poor "circuit."
Mind you, this was with a clamp where the spring had broken
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17th Oct 2019, 09:01 PM #22Most Valued Member
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Hey Nigel i had cleaned the earth clamp area with the grinder before starting, it feels almost as if the machine is finally broken in now and its taking the "edge" off that new raw power feeling
maybe I'm dreaming....
feels like a new car finally being ran in and you've just towed another car with it it takes that crisp throttle and gear change away to a slightly smoother feel
any how i'm onto it now more amps more muscle
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17th Oct 2019, 09:10 PM #23Philomath in training
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Check your cables where they interface with lugs, holders etc. At 90A with a 2.5mm electrode I would expect to see spatter everywhere as that is an indicator that your amps are too high. You photo does not show that, which suggests something may not be right.
Michael
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17th Oct 2019, 09:24 PM #24Most Valued Member
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Hey Michael it's a brand new machine mate didn't touch the terminals from the other day, i am running it on a 25 meter extension cable but it was like that the other day too only difference is the other day was warm today it was cold if that makes a difference there was also spatter but not much
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18th Oct 2019, 06:43 AM #25
Voltage drop.
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18th Oct 2019, 07:10 PM #26Philomath in training
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18th Oct 2019, 08:54 PM #27Most Valued Member
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I've found that on certain times of the day I get a voltage drop in my shed. Usually about 3.00pm onwards, must be all the kids coming home from school turning on the heaters TVs etc, 5.00pm onwards the stoves go on and I close down the welder.
In regards to your extension lead is it a QUALITY rated 15amp one? Have seen some so called rated ones that had less wire than a 10amp one.
Do you run your extension cord right out, or do you have it in a coil??
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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19th Oct 2019, 07:39 AM #28
Supply voltage can and does change. I was told once you can get your electricity infrastructure providor (not your retailer) to monitor your voltage if you have suspicions.
As for voltage drop, say you have a pretty sweet extension lead with 2.5mm2 conductor cross sectional area (CSA). This is equivalent to 13 AWG, if you were wondering.
A 15A load (ie max amp draw for an average sized 15A welder) over a 15m cable run, will drop about 3Volts. Downgrade the cable CSA, or up the amps, or increase the cable run, and it just gets worse.
Machine data plate will give an idea of what voltage tolerance the machine has. Usually no bueno if 240V -15% (ie < 204V)
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/awg-to-mm.html
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wir...alculator.html
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19th Oct 2019, 08:54 PM #29Most Valued Member
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Extension lead is about 20 years old i've had it for 20 years.. its 15amp lead but the plugs were changed to 10amp by my brother who i got it off 20 years ago
I run the cable mostly uncoiled but there may be a knot or two, the power was fine one day than the next i had to up the amps i just assumed with the amount of rods i went thru (at lease 20 rods) the machine was just broken in and settled down a little but that is just my thinking im a mechanic not an electrician
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20th Oct 2019, 12:58 PM #30
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