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12th Aug 2019, 05:55 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Prep advice? Going to tig this hole
Going to weld up this hole first option was mig but i dont have a teflon liner so going to fire up the tig and have a go, i have a piece if 100x50x3 brass backing shop didnt have copper
Any advice on cleaning? I am know to be not so clean and get impurities in the weld
Finger is for reference, was quoted $200 to repair, $300 for a new starter but i need the practice
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12th Aug 2019, 06:34 PM #2Philomath in training
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Brass is no good - the zinc will come out and play havoc with the weld. It needs to be copper.
Michael
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12th Aug 2019, 06:51 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Thanks Michael any idea what i can use for backing? The steel shop is 30mins each way away
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12th Aug 2019, 07:10 PM #4Most Valued Member
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If you've got a bit of copper water pipe you could try flattening that.
Steve
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12th Aug 2019, 07:55 PM #5Philomath in training
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Rather than try to fill the whole lot, my preferred method would be to neaten up the hole and make up a patch to match. The whole thing will need to machined anyway before it's able to be used, so build up can be tolerated.
Michael
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12th Aug 2019, 08:50 PM #6Most Valued Member
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Thanks for that idea Steve bunnings is just around the corner
Michael thats an idea it will save a lot of gas and i have some 4mm sheet in the shed will hitting the aluminium with a steel hammer effect how it welds?
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12th Aug 2019, 09:22 PM #7Philomath in training
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Shouldn't do (unless you embed bits of steel in the Al when you hit it - unlikely unless the hammer shatters )
Michael
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12th Aug 2019, 10:59 PM #8Most Valued Member
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Definitely better to make a section and then weld it in as you will get substantial shrinkage if you just fully weld it which will potentially distort far more than just the repaired area. Being a casting, it may well weld like crap, so be prepared for the odd rework. All things are possible with forethought, skill and patience. IE, think about the job, prep it well (cleanliness) and if it starts going pear shaped, then stop and reassess.
Steel or stainless will act as a backing for Aluminium. I don't personally like copper all that much for Aluminium as it tends to suck the heat away. Pay attention to letting the piece cool evenly so as to avoid cracking.
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13th Aug 2019, 01:52 PM #9Most Valued Member
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Thanks for the help to those who have offered advice i made the blank bit today to fill in the hole my fitment is not 100 percent perfect there are tiny gaps i hope i can bridge these gaps without blowing a hole right thru it my machine is pre set amps so not foot peddle to vary the amps
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13th Aug 2019, 06:54 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Does your welder have a downslope setting?
I don't have a pedal on mine either, but find I can get a bit of variable control by setting the downslope a bit longer then releasing the torch trigger and pressing it again as the current reduces (before the arc stops).
Basically if the weld pool starts to get away I release the trigger, then back on again. The longer you wait before hitting the trigger again the more the current reduces.
If you time it right its a bit like a manual pulse mode!
Steve
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14th Aug 2019, 09:57 AM #11Most Valued Member
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Steve i think it does and thats a neat little trick i'll see how i go
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14th Aug 2019, 10:36 PM #12Most Valued Member
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I think you need to pay more attention to the shape of your infill patch. It is too flat (not enough curve) and once machined you will potentially have a thin spot. It would also be a good idea to ensure all of the joint is bevelled out to allow penetration.
What happened to the pieces that broke out originally? Often they are the best infill.
Is your little lathe up to the task of holding and machining the casting back to shape once welded?
Pay attention to the details as you will probably only get one go at this, two if you are really lucky.
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15th Aug 2019, 09:15 AM #13Most Valued Member
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Hey Karl, The bits that had broken off were tiny pieces it wasn't one big piece i will attach a pic, i was going to use a die grinder bit in a drill to shape it doesn't have to be perfect and it doesn't have to be super strong as one of the internal ring gears is plastic
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15th Aug 2019, 02:22 PM #14Most Valued Member
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Fighting with the tools tig regulator hose was one size regulator nipple was 1/4" solenoid nipple was 3/8" tried to make a hose fit but the hose kept folding in on its self than the solenoid wasnt working so pulled out the Unimig 200 Razor and just mig welded it
really good penetration but a bit of impurities not sure if it was because i had no backing and it was sucking air thru the gaps or if it were in the metal or my cleaning
after some sanding it came up pretty good
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15th Aug 2019, 04:29 PM #15Most Valued Member
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Well done!!
Steve
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