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  1. #16
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    OK. Well the motor on the 130 twin is not that size. It's possibly only about 30 mm in diameter and maybe 45 mm long. Not very big at all really and looks similar to the eBay one. I've sent the seller a question about suitability and haven't heard back yet.

    I think even good old fashioned hard bakelite might have lasted longer than this stuff. I realized long ago that you shouldn't leave the tension spring wound up as it was putting permanent loading on the plastic arm and pivot. The only problem with this was that the mechanism wasn't easily accessible and required undoing 5 screws to remove the side panel every time and then putting it back so you didn't lose the screws and reversing the procedure to prepare for reuse. I suppose some knurled head machine screws would have been a good modification to make.

    I can't see what the problem would have been to have a replacement unit available. I know it was bottom range equipment but even so, it wasn't peanuts to purchase at the time. From memory I think I paid about $650 for it when RRP was about $800 because it was the only one they had left and was the floor unit. $650 20 years ago is easily over $1k today. There must have been quite a few of them sold both here and overseas. That makes for a lot of scrap metal.

    My first purchased computer was an Epson 286 with a 20 Mb (Yes 20 Mb) HDD and a 24 pin dot matrix printer. It cost $2.5k in 1991. I would back the HDD up on a box of 1.4 Mb 3 1/2" DSDD floppy disks.

  2. #17
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    Dec 2005
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    Trust me you won't find any spares for your Epson either, It is a bit sad but things are no longer made to hand down to the family, look at companies like Ozito they don't even stock spares
    if it is faulty just though in the bin and here is a new one, less expensive for them a entire department the don't need, most things are going in this direction

  3. #18
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    Sep 2012
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    Hi Glivo,

    That Ali express part looks far more substantial ! But will it fit in the space you have without fouling anything ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Glivo,

    That Ali express part looks far more substantial ! But will it fit in the space you have without fouling anything ?
    Weighing in at 2.3 kg, I'd say probably not. The unit in the 130 Twin is probably about 1/10 that. Just looking at the photos of it, I'd say it would involve cutting the top out of the case on the wire feed compartment in order to line the wire feed up with the exit hole. Alternatively a new hole moved down, and slightly angle mount the feed motor assembly to suite the wire roll takeoff. Not impossible and it would probably work with DC rectification of the motor power supply. I would need to know that actual physical dimensions of the unit.
    It is for 0.8 mm to 1.6 mm wire. 130 Twin is 0.6 mm to 0.9 mm capacity. Unsuitable.

    The only electrical circuit that goes through this area is the trigger switch wiring so not a huge problem. Worth it or not? Undecided yet.

    The eBay seller has replied with this message: "sorry, we found it was not in stock now". So, I guess that's out.

    This one comes from USA but uses 12V DC and says suitable rectification and a transformer would be required to achieve correct power supply. It looks to be about the right size and shape. Able to be done but the cost would be a good part of purchasing a replacement.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wire-fee...f329%7Ciid%3A1

    Reluctant to buy another low end version, BUT, Edison's are selling a mini 130 MIG Twin for less than $120. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ROSS...frcectupt=true
    Anybody have a Rossi? This is a disposable model at that cost.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
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    71
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    Quote Originally Posted by glivo View Post
    [S]
    Reluctant to buy another low end version, BUT, Edison's are selling a mini 130 MIG Twin for less than $120. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ROSS...frcectupt=true
    Anybody have a Rossi? This is a disposable model at that cost.
    20% duty cycle at 125A output. Personally I wouldn't waste my time.

    I've got a Magnum Welders 250A MIG. I've put over 300kg of wire through it and total repair bill to date has been replacing one liner. But it didn't cost $120 either.

    In that price bracket you're going to get something that sort of works but has a lousy duty cycle. If that fits your needs, great, just don't have high expectations.

    PDW

  6. #21
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    I understand that fully. These are the Ozito of welders.

  7. #22
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    Do you have a photo of the actual motor?

  8. #23
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    I'll take one and post it today.

    The wired connections are red and black (marked) which made me assume DC powered, but when I measured for DC with DMM it gave no reading. I swapped over to AC scale and was able to measure the 37 V previously mentioned with the wire feed set to 8/10. The motor is definitely going into a little reduction gearbox as moving the drive pulley spins the armature inside the motor at higher RPM.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
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    I was thinking maybe you could buy the wire feed drive off eBay and swap your existing motor onto it?

  10. #25
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    Aug 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by glivo View Post
    I'll take one and post it today.

    The wired connections are red and black (marked) which made me assume DC powered, but when I measured for DC with DMM it gave no reading. I swapped over to AC scale and was able to measure the 37 V previously mentioned with the wire feed set to 8/10. The motor is definitely going into a little reduction gearbox as moving the drive pulley spins the armature inside the motor at higher RPM.
    PWM DC will not show a reading on your multimeter when set to DC because it's pulsed DC.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #26
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    Would it give a reading on the DMM set to measure AC voltage?

    If it is PWM DC, that could be a good thing, but how would I know the rating of the motor I have if I can't measure the DC voltage driving it with my meter. I have read that putting a 1 - 2 uF capacitor across it would allow a stable readings of the duty cycled DC voltage? So a reading taken at 10 /10 would theoretically be the voltage rating of the motor. Most of them appear to be either 12 or 24 DC volt.

    The only markings on the motor are 00725 and 15/00. The black plastic end cap is marked Made in Italy. The electrical schematic has no voltage, resistance or capacitance values at all.

  12. #27
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    Hi Glivo,

    If its PWM DC then reversing the motor leads should make the motor run the other way.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #28
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    Of course. Good point and thanks. I'll try it out.

    Still doesn't tell me if it's 12V or 24V though.
    Does anybody know if the capacitor across the pins will remove noise and allow me to measure the voltage?

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by glivo View Post
    Does anybody know if the capacitor across the pins will remove noise and allow me to measure the voltage?
    You can certainly try it. But no guarantee as to how meaningful the measurement will be, as aside from the pulsed DC, you've also got the commutated load from the motor.

    That said, it looks like it's probably a 24V motor, given they're a common size (and 12V seems too low).

  15. #30
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    Both 12 V and 24 V drives are available.

    The motor ran from a 12 V car battery and reversed direction when polarities were swapped, so definitely PWM DC. A 24V motor may run from 12 V supply (albeit slower) whereas 24 V fed into a 12 V motor may cook it or at least overheat it and run too fast. Some numbers on the schematic would have been nice.

    I guess I'll try a cap across the pins to at least try to measure the supply voltage

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