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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    21

    Default Heat from arc welding - alum mould - what will happen?

    I've got an experimental project happening, and I'm planning (hoping) on using an aluminium mould (hemisphere) to use as a template for arc welding (tacking) of small bits of steel (eg steel washers or other small bits of metal) to form a ball shape. As I will just be tacking the steel, I don't envisage a lot of heat transfer to the aluminium, but then again I might be under-estimating that. Will I burn holes in the aluminium? I guess I'll need to use the power clamp to hold the metal in place on the aluminium so I can strike the arc - will this burn holes in the aluminium ?
    I've actually spend a few $$$ on the mould, and don't want to destroy it immediately. I did find a thin stainless mould which worked to a point, but the metal wanted to stick to that and it did burn some holes too. These holes were not at the weld point, but rather at the point where the mould was touching the metal table.
    Any comments on what the likely fate of the aluminium are appreciated, as are any comments on how I might successfully be able to use that aluminium mould for shaping an arc welding project are appreciated. Otherwise the partner will get a new cake tin
    cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Your ally should be OK to use as a mold. You'll find that the mold will end up with burn marks, but still be usable. How thick is the mold by the way?
    Ally is also a good backup for welding sheet metal if it has a slight gap, I keep several pieces 12mm thick, handy for such jobs.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Your ally should be OK to use as a mold. You'll find that the mold will end up with burn marks, but still be usable. How thick is the mold by the way?
    Ally is also a good backup for welding sheet metal if it has a slight gap, I keep several pieces 12mm thick, handy for such jobs.
    Kryn
    Thanks Kryn. The mould is thin, I'm guessing maybe 1-2mm. I'm not worried about burn marks, but thought it might start dissolving on me! thanks again.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    535

    Default

    You're making an artistic piece? Once you have a few of your washers etc in place ground to those. It sounds like you have a welding table and your mould is on that and the washers are resting on the mould? So an intermittent ground will cause those arcs to form away from the welding site. I'm sure we've all done that, I know it happens to me all the time when I move around a job and forget to reposition the ground sometimes. Or maybe your ground is on your mould and therefore it's arcing wherever it feels like it to the work. Regardless, a good ground to the work will help.

    Copper is also a good heatsink/backing material I find.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Legion View Post
    You're making an artistic piece? Once you have a few of your washers etc in place ground to those. It sounds like you have a welding table and your mould is on that and the washers are resting on the mould? So an intermittent ground will cause those arcs to form away from the welding site. I'm sure we've all done that, I know it happens to me all the time when I move around a job and forget to reposition the ground sometimes. Or maybe your ground is on your mould and therefore it's arcing wherever it feels like it to the work. Regardless, a good ground to the work will help.

    Copper is also a good heatsink/backing material I find.
    thanks Legion - yep, correct on all counts! ....except not so sure about the artistic piece

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