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20th Jan 2015, 12:46 AM #16
Thanks for that more detailed advice. I really had no idea about peening that thoroughly. I;ve been 'peening' mild steel welds in sheetmetal successfully whenever I weld any, but you can see when the metal has streched enough to straighten the metal. In cast iron you can't see the stresses until it cracks.
Will use that technique next time I weld cast iron, most definitely.
Great instruction, by the way. Could you take a couple of pics of your chisel and a properly peened weld, please. More for posterity and instruction of other readers. I 'think' I can picture in my mind what you are telling me.....Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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20th Jan 2015, 09:32 AM #17Most Valued Member
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No problem, I'll try to sort something out today.
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20th Jan 2015, 11:16 AM #18
Just came across a video clip by 'Chuck'. He shows the process quite well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yopcz-IYDyQCheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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20th Jan 2015, 01:46 PM #19Senior Member
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20th Jan 2015, 02:42 PM #20Most Valued Member
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I guess a hammer drill on the hammer setting may work. It's not that hard to do by hand with either your chipping hammer or a ball pein hammer. You could even use a blunt chisel.
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20th Jan 2015, 03:01 PM #21Senior Member
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Yeah or that. Just though ppwer tools would be easyer. Ill let you know how it all goes, rod should be here this week., would you recomend sand blasing the parts clean or grind them?
On a side note, was in masters today and seen cast iron repair rods 80 somthing bucks for a few of them!
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20th Jan 2015, 09:15 PM #22Most Valued Member
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I would just grind the parts although I wouldn't think you should have too much trouble other than oil contamination and you can't really grind or blast that away.
If you want to give the hammer drill a go, I would test it on a piece of mild steel first, just to see what happens and to experiment with speed etc. When you get into it, peening is all in the wrist action and you can get quite a good rhythm going.
Those electrodes in Masters should sit right alongside the $109 packet of Satincraft 13's I found in a hardware store. Sad part is that someone will buy them.
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20th Jan 2015, 09:40 PM #23Senior Member
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Dont supose letting the parks soak in some petrol or acetone overnight would work?
Will do.
Yeah pretty sad all the hardware store things are over priced and sell junk. Though i did see a nice little almost hand size cigwelder there, wouldnt be too bad for the small jobs onsite.
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21st Jan 2015, 12:05 PM #24Most Valued Member
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Are the parts very oily? Cleanliness is nowhere near as critical as for welding aluminium, but if the part is swimming in oil and grease you will obviously have difficulties.
Personally I prefer to try a good hot steam cleaner and degreaser as a first option, but solvents will at least remove external contamination. The parts looked pretty clean in the photos. Did this lathe get dropped or something?
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21st Jan 2015, 01:10 PM #25Senior Member
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Yeah no worries, lathe was hit into a wall during moving it by previous owner. I got it cheap knowing the history, though if i was to do ot again i think i would have passed it, damage was more then forst thought. Either way once its going im.sure it would be well worth the effort. Plus this keeps me busy after work.
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30th Jan 2015, 07:06 PM #26Senior Member
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This arvo i tryed welding up the hand wheel. I could not get a nice bead going at all was horrible no mater what i tryed. Ended up knocking the flux off and using the tig on ac and got a somwhat reasonable result. Still undercut and a bit of porosity but will hold up fine i think.
the other parts are sure going to be interesting.
Is there an alternative to a steam clean? Maybe boil in water?
Is cast iron welding "good enough" is good enough?
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30th Jan 2015, 07:43 PM #27Most Valued Member
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I don't suppose you took any photos?
Any particular reason you chose AC when TIG welding. Cast iron should weld okay on DCEN or was your tungsten being contaminated?
Undercut suggests to me that the arc must have been pretty fiery as cast iron electrodes usually have a soft fluffy arc, suggesting a fair bit of contamination. The porosity fits into this hypothesis as well.
Photos would be good to give us a bit better idea of what's going on.
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30th Jan 2015, 08:03 PM #28Senior Member
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I was getting better results with ac, 90%en, just seemed to melt the cast better, kept gettint contamination om dc. yeah your right the cast just wanted to melt away faster then then sticks could fill, hemce why i swaped over to tig, i think im.going to stay with tig as well. could be oil contamination like you say, but how dirty is cast in its natural state?
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30th Jan 2015, 09:47 PM #29Most Valued Member
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Yep, fair enough. Good job, you have to do what works. With 90% EN balance you would be getting good heat with a little bit of cleaning action from the 10% EP.
Cast in its natural state can vary from the sweetest, fairly fine grained totally homogenous material to utter crap depending on the quality of the casting. Usually old castings are really sound, while newer castings are somewhat variable, particularly those emanating from our Indian and Asian friends. This is the reason why few will guarantee a cast iron repair. I always tell people "it should be okay, but I won't fully know until I start to weld it." A lot also has to do with the castings intended use. For example, a casting for a machine tool or engine block will typically be of a much better quality than a barbeque plate. The worst castings I can recall fixing were exhaust manifolds as internal rust, scale and soot really made life interesting.
It's a shame that you have had a bad run with this job as the cast electrodes are capable of a really good job.
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31st Jan 2015, 05:08 AM #30Senior Member
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Yeah it seemed to be , the next parts ill spend more time cleaning, as to your sugestion about steam clean to try get the oil out, would boiling in water be of any use?
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