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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    13

    Default Thanks Karl

    It is the output in both AC and DC that are just sparking and no go. I will take the side covers and look at all the connection But I feel that this might be something more serious. I will let you know .

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Hi Karl
    Opened the machine and blew away inches of dust. All connection appear to be ok. Took out the four diodes and these tested averiging .3750 V. So obviously the fault is not the diodes. What else can I test/do before I chuck it out for scrap? Thank you for your assistence, I appreciate any help.
    Tony Cav

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    Have you checked that the machine is configured for the supply voltage you are using? If the machine is set for 415V or 480V supply and you are feeding it 240V that will halve your open circuit voltage (should be 70VAC output from transformer). The correct shunt positions are shown in the manual attached in an earlier post. The scan is not the best quality, but from memory, the diodes should only come into play when set to DC output and should not affect AC output.
    These machines are basically an AC "buzz box" transformer welder with three output ranges selected by a jack plug in the front panel. Onto this basic "buzz box" is added a rectifier bank and a switchable HF unit. About as simple as they come really
    Having verified the correct supply voltage connection as per the manual and that the correct voltage is reaching the transformer (eliminating a faulty switch etc) CAUTION, MAINS VOLTAGE I would then test for voltage output from the transformer with a multimeter. Test all three ranges and try a few different settings on the current adjustment (I am thinking that the female socket for the jack plug to the work/return lead should do it, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, you should be able to trace the outputs from the transformer.) I believe all this occurs before the diode bank, so set your meter on a range that will allow for 70VAC. In thinking about it, checking the actual outputs from the transformer would be the best idea as it eliminates the polarity change switch.
    If no voltage detected on the outputs, then I think you may well be up the proverbial creek minus some vital boating equipment.
    Of interest is the fact that the manual expressly recommends against multimeter testing diodes, instead suggesting a 6V battery and a test light. Times have changed indeed.
    If the machine is deemed deceased, perhaps offer it on this forum to someone who may be seeking parts for a similar machine with a different issue rather than scrapping it. The slab you get in return may lessen the grief at losing a welder.
    Let us know what you find and maybe a couple of photos of the innards would be handy as I can't tell much from the low resolution scans from the manual.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Thank you Karl
    I will venture into all this on Monday. Hopefully I may be able to sort it out.
    I'll be in touch soon
    Tony Cav

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Have you checked that the machine is configured for the supply voltage you are using? If the machine is set for 415V or 480V supply and you are feeding it 240V that will halve your open circuit voltage (should be 70VAC output from transformer). The correct shunt positions are shown in the manual attached in an earlier post. The scan is not the best quality, but from memory, the diodes should only come into play when set to DC output and should not affect AC output.
    These machines are basically an AC "buzz box" transformer welder with three output ranges selected by a jack plug in the front panel. Onto this basic "buzz box" is added a rectifier bank and a switchable HF unit. About as simple as they come really
    Having verified the correct supply voltage connection as per the manual and that the correct voltage is reaching the transformer (eliminating a faulty switch etc) CAUTION, MAINS VOLTAGE I would then test for voltage output from the transformer with a multimeter. Test all three ranges and try a few different settings on the current adjustment (I am thinking that the female socket for the jack plug to the work/return lead should do it, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, you should be able to trace the outputs from the transformer.) I believe all this occurs before the diode bank, so set your meter on a range that will allow for 70VAC. In thinking about it, checking the actual outputs from the transformer would be the best idea as it eliminates the polarity change switch.
    If no voltage detected on the outputs, then I think you may well be up the proverbial creek minus some vital boating equipment.
    Of interest is the fact that the manual expressly recommends against multimeter testing diodes, instead suggesting a 6V battery and a test light. Times have changed indeed.
    If the machine is deemed deceased, perhaps offer it on this forum to someone who may be seeking parts for a similar machine with a different issue rather than scrapping it. The slab you get in return may lessen the grief at losing a welder.
    Let us know what you find and maybe a couple of photos of the innards would be handy as I can't tell much from the low resolution scans from the manual.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1

    Default Unable to download attached file

    Quote Originally Posted by 02howdy View Post
    I have attached the manual for anyone who may be interested, however on page 4 it says the supply voltage of 240 voltage uses 26 amps (specifications). I'll test it out when I arrive home in another month.
    hi could you or anyone else please send me a copy of the manual wont let me download attachments may be dead or no ĺonget there

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