Thread: What would be the best method to fix this?

Hi guys just wanted some assistance with this little job. Its the base of a handrail and appears to be mild steel with a chrome coatong of some sort. It needs welding so should i use the mig? The section doesnt look very thick so was thinking mig on low amps. Opinions are very welcome.IMG_1281.JPGIMG_1282.JPGIMG_1283.JPG

Are you sure its not stainless?? Either way I would mig it but it would probably be a lot nicer looking if you could tig it

Im really not sure...... it looks like it could well be stainless

First up cover your self as far as for inhalation of chromium /stainless fumes. A small side breeze generated by an offset fan,would be enough to drag the fumes away.

I would opt for tig or it could be done with oxy.

Almost invariably, mig for that application would be too quick ,too much fill and would look overfilled and lumpy.

As well, if you do not already have a roll of stainless it is not cost effective to buy a roll for suck as small job,whereas a with a tig process, a single stainless filler rod can be often purchased.

Grahame

If you have access to a tig then that would be numero uno choice. If not then stick would be my next choice. It wil be 1.6mm material in all likelihood and stainless stick will handle that. I would then grind and sand the finished weld.
Mig is a poor option for one off jobs de to gas and wire set up costs although you can use pure argon for stainless mig if you already have it. Small handyman packs of stainless sticks are radily avaliable.

Thanks again guys for your help.
Karl it might be a good option using the inverter, being only 1.6 what amp setting would you recommend? 2mm rod?

Originally Posted by Zumanity

Thanks again guys for your help.
Karl it might be a good option using the inverter, being only 1.6 what amp setting would you recommend? 2mm rod?

I would think that a 2mm filler is a touch too big. a 1.6 filler on a 1mm tungsten ( lanthalated are said to run better with inverter power sources) running around 55 to 60 amps would be a good start. Remember you may need to reduce that as the work is thinwall and heats up pretty quickly.

You might wish to checkout the downloadable Miller guide for tig

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf

Grahame

Originally Posted by Zumanity

Thanks again guys for your help.
Karl it might be a good option using the inverter, being only 1.6 what amp setting would you recommend? 2mm rod?

I am guessing that you are referring to the stick process.
Most of the handyman pack stainless electrodes are a mix of 2.5 and 3.2. I would choose a 2.5mm electrode and run it at around 60 amps DCEP, keeping a good tight arc.
Having said that, you have a couple of options if you are finding it difficult. One option is to drop your amperage. I reckon you could go as low as 40 amps with DC if you had to although that will make slag control and general running of the electrode more difficult. Option 2 would be to stop and start in order to manage your heat input.
While it may not be the easiest stick welding job you have undertaken, it is definitely doable.

Cheers Karl, im going to go with the stick option. I picked up some 2mm rods today and had a little run with them down the shed and it seems stop start is the way to go. ran it on an old stainless mixing bowl that is very thin and didnt blow through so thats a bonus although the slag "pinged"off the piece as it cooled which is different! (safety glasses are a must)!

You did well finding some 2mm electrodes, that will help a fair bit. What brand were they and did they come in a mini pack or did you have to buy a full size box?

Unsure on the brand but they came in a pack of 6 rods in a sealed plastic bag for $12 at Gasweld. The run of beads or spots that i did last night would add up to the total length of the repair im doing and i only used half a rod so the other 5 will be sealed back up and put away for future use.