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  1. #46
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    ok i'll give that a go mick, also could this be the reason i have contamination? i remember a couple of weeks ago i was welding my nephews motor bike stand andi touched the tungsten and it burnt back to the collet body

    also here's the 3 sizes of cups i have the middle and left came with my welder and are available from bob the welder the one to the right is a #7 cup

    if i just simply had a bad collet body and i can use the left cup (of course i will order a new one) and get away with it i might keep my torch?
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  2. #47
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    Just give it a wipe down. It doesn't look like the damage will affect gas flow or air entrainment, but it wouldn't hurt to smooth off those rough edges.
    On the other hand, I'd just throw that left hand cup out.
    So that #7 cup in the photo - won't that fit? why haven't you tried it?
    Also, the previous suggestion from Karl regarding the tunsten was trying to determine if your tungsten is getting contaminated. Take a macro photo of the tip of the tungsten - does the tungsten remain bright, clean and shiney? as it should be or is it grey, dull or otherwise crappy?

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    Just give it a wipe down. It doesn't look like the damage will affect gas flow or air entrainment, but it wouldn't hurt to smooth off those rough edges.
    On the other hand, I'd just throw that left hand cup out.
    So that #7 cup in the photo - won't that fit? why haven't you tried it?
    Also, the previous suggestion from Karl regarding the tunsten was trying to determine if your tungsten is getting contaminated. Take a macro photo of the tip of the tungsten - does the tungsten remain bright, clean and shiney? as it should be or is it grey, dull or otherwise crappy?
    nah mate the cup dont fit the cup that fits my yellow torch is on the right, on the left is a cup i bought from national welding the thread starts deeper inside the cup and doesnt fit
    if there was a way of cutting the cup shorter it would fit as it uses the same thread pitch and diameter
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  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i remember a couple of weeks ago i was welding my nephews motor bike stand andi touched the tungsten and it burnt back to the collet body
    I'm wondering how you achieved that? Is the tungsten loose? are you using the right sized collet? what actually burnt back to touch the collet body?

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    ok i'll give that a go mick, also could this be the reason i have contamination? i remember a couple of weeks ago i was welding my nephews motor bike stand andi touched the tungsten and it burnt back to the collet body
    Interesting. I've never had a tungsten burn back like that if I've touched it. They spit and fart a bit, but don't really burn back as such. I really do wonder if your gas shield is a bit compromised. Something's definitely not quite right.
    To be honest, I would offload that torch asap. My reasons are the poor range of consumables available - either 6 or 9mm shrouds are your choices and poor availability of parts. A new torch will not make you a welder overnight, but at least you will have choice and availability of consumables.
    I would address your gas issues by either getting a regulator and flow meter of this type Argon CO2 Flowmeter Regulator FOR MIG TIG Welding Welder Flow Meter | eBay
    Or as a second, less preferred option would be to use one of these to verify your flow rates TIG MIG Plasma Torches AR CO2 GAS Flow Meter | eBay
    Go through your entire gas line and check for leaks, soapy water is great for this. Make sure that you are not sucking air in around the gas cup (shroud) and generally make sure that all connections are as they should be.
    There is something not quite right with your setup, hard to diagnose on a laptop though.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    I'm wondering how you achieved that? Is the tungsten loose? are you using the right sized collet? what actually burnt back to touch the collet body?
    You beat me to it. There's something in that isn't there. I've only burnt a tungsten when there was no gas shield. Even over amping them doesn't actually burn them, more vapourises them with no burn mark provided there is a gas shield. An earlier picture Gazza posted showed a splintered, somewhat oxidised looking tungsten. Things definitely are not right somewhere.
    I just wish I could get my hands on Gazza's welder and play.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    An earlier picture Gazza posted showed a splintered, somewhat oxidised looking tungsten. Things definitely are not right somewhere.
    I just wish I could get my hands on Gazza's welder and play.
    Now Karl, where would the challenge in that be?
    However, this sort of stuff does highlight the value of having someone close by that can spot all the issues at the one time and work through them in a logical manner. A lot harder diagnosing things remotely, but I sort of like the puzzle.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    I'm wondering how you achieved that? Is the tungsten loose? are you using the right sized collet? what actually burnt back to touch the collet body?
    i was welding steel using the red tungsten, on DC and the tungsten got stuck on the part i was welding now with my torch i need to press down the torch trigger than my arc will start it wont stop unless i press down the trigger again
    what happen was once i touched the steel i tried pulling away the tungsten before cutting the arc than it just went *poof* and burnt right back to the collet body

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Interesting. I've never had a tungsten burn back like that if I've touched it. They spit and fart a bit, but don't really burn back as such. I really do wonder if your gas shield is a bit compromised. Something's definitely not quite right.
    To be honest, I would offload that torch asap. My reasons are the poor range of consumables available - either 6 or 9mm shrouds are your choices and poor availability of parts. A new torch will not make you a welder overnight, but at least you will have choice and availability of consumables.
    I would address your gas issues by either getting a regulator and flow meter of this type Argon CO2 Flowmeter Regulator FOR MIG TIG Welding Welder Flow Meter | eBay
    Or as a second, less preferred option would be to use one of these to verify your flow rates TIG MIG Plasma Torches AR CO2 GAS Flow Meter | eBay
    Go through your entire gas line and check for leaks, soapy water is great for this. Make sure that you are not sucking air in around the gas cup (shroud) and generally make sure that all connections are as they should be.
    There is something not quite right with your setup, hard to diagnose on a laptop though.
    i have that second flow meter and ill check for leaks thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    You beat me to it. There's something in that isn't there. I've only burnt a tungsten when there was no gas shield. Even over amping them doesn't actually burn them, more vapourises them with no burn mark provided there is a gas shield. An earlier picture Gazza posted showed a splintered, somewhat oxidised looking tungsten. Things definitely are not right somewhere.
    I just wish I could get my hands on Gazza's welder and play.
    i just uploaded the pics of the white tungsten for the aluminium im welding
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  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i was welding steel using the red tungsten, on DC and the tungsten got stuck on the part i was welding now with my torch i need to press down the torch trigger than my arc will start it wont stop unless i press down the trigger again
    what happen was once i touched the steel i tried pulling away the tungsten before cutting the arc than it just went *poof* and burnt right back to the collet body
    It sounds more like the tungsten pulled out of collet - and since it the tungsten was connected to the earth, it struck an arc inside your torch against the collet as you tried to free the stuck electrode. It would be real x files stuff if the tungsten just evaporated.

    Which reminds me a bit of a guy that was in TAFE - he somehow managed to weld his brand new 36" length of filler rod to his tungsten which then shorted out against an elevated clamping arrangement (earthed) beside him, which understandably gave him a bit of a surprise... as he swung around in increasing levels of panic, he managed to strike arcs against quite a few different objects including the welder casing itself. It was actually quite an eye opener when considering the possibilities.

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i just uploaded the pics of the white tungsten for the aluminium im welding
    Ideally the whole tungsten should be shiny and the ball on the end should be like a mirror, but that's in a perfect world. The blue tinting is partial oxidation, similar to the temper colours you get in steel, when the tungsten is still hot and gets exposed to air. That tungsten isn't in the best nick, but should still be able to produce a reasonable weld. Its condition is symptomatic of not having good enough argon shielding.

    When you get a bigger cup that fits, that will help. Keep the argon flowing for a few seconds after you break the arc so the tungsten cools whist still being shielded.

  10. #55
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    does anyone know of the size for the 26 size tig torch/power cable connection? mine measures outside diam: 9.56mm, inside diam: 6.93mm
    if i can change the torch only will save me a lot of money was looking at this one since i have a cable tied on switch https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/2...y-solid-p-6241
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  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    does anyone know of the size for the 26 size tig torch/power cable connection? mine measures outside diam: 9.56mm, inside diam: 6.93mm
    if i can change the torch only will save me a lot of money was looking at this one since i have a cable tied on switch https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/2...y-solid-p-6241
    Bad news Gazza. A 26 with one piece gas hose and power cable uses a 5/8-18 fitting.
    Depending on your power cable and gas hose sizes, be able to swap the fitting on the end of your cable to the appropriate fitting.
    My gut feeling is that you are pushing the proverbial uphill with a rope. I am guessing that your QQ 150 power cable is probably of minimal dimension and the whole set up is very price governed. Unfortunately I reckon you have 3 options. 1/ Buy a 26 torch and cable out of China, less than $100 for sure. 2/ Buy a Chinese made 26 torch locally, probably in the realm of under $150. 3/ Persevere with the QQ 150 and buy your consumables direct out of China, keeping a substantial stock of spares due to their poor availability locally.
    My honest advice would be probably option 2 provided you can touch the torch prior to purchase, if online order, then you may as well go with option 1.
    You will always be hamstrung by that QQ 150. Not to say it will not weld acceptably, but you will be fighting for consumables constantly, with a poor range of shroud sizes available and I suspect that it is not going to be a long lasting torch, (I doubt it will stand up to much more than 100A AC to be honest), everything about it seems to scream "cheap" to me from what I can see.
    This is the downside of the cheap ebay machines in many cases and the uninitiated often find themselves in the same position you are in now. There are many ebay sellers that supply machines with industry standard guns and torches though. It's just a matter of sorting through them.

  12. #57
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    There is a fourth option, from a technical perspective at least. Machine an adapter to marry the two threads. I wouldn't do this though to be honest.

  13. #58
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    cheers karl, though i'd ask in case it was a quick swap over and i didnt need to spend the extra money, i dont know what torch national welding sells at the starting price if its this torch https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/m...8m-ft-1pc-p-58 i wont buy it looks basic and doesnt look very comfortable i will call them on monday other wise i will order the torch from china/hongkong

  14. #59
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    26 size cable is alot larger then your 150 amp torch. The larger fittings also dissipate the heat better. Best to get a whole new set up.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    cheers karl, though i'd ask in case it was a quick swap over and i didnt need to spend the extra money, i dont know what torch national welding sells at the starting price if its this torch https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/m...8m-ft-1pc-p-58 i wont buy it looks basic and doesnt look very comfortable i will call them on monday other wise i will order the torch from china/hongkong
    That's actually a pretty standard torch. You can get a flex neck for them if you wish. Separate switch as per your QQ 150.
    There's been an awful lot of metres of weld laid down by torches just like that and they are near indestructable. I used an 18 torch of the same design for many years with no problems and one of my 26's is the exact same unit. You can probably use your existing switch to keep costs down if you want too. At worst you may need to extend the wires if the 26 has a longer cable than your QQ 150.

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