can this rusty old trailer be salvaged?

[Bouncingmolar]

Gday.

I bought this 6x4 terror off ebay :C

Just wondering if you guys reckon its salvagable.

I managed to take 2 photos before my camera ran out of batteries, so if you think I should take some more I can in a couple of hours.

The photo of the rusted trailer floor shows where the cut frame is poking through the floor which is the only support for the front of the suspension. (if i push down on the trailer that small block midway on the picture goes further up through the floor)

The side photo shows the missing section of frame supporting the above mentioned front attatchment for the suspension.

Seeing as its quite rusty,(ignoring the floor.... for the moment) Could getting a bar welded to replace the missing section of frame solve some of the structural problems? or is this not worth it.

[Yonnee]

Tut, tut...:no:
The perils of buying off ebay.:doh:

The two things that will determine whether it's worth fixing are; How much you paid for it, and how much work you can do yourself.

For me, fixing that is a "no-brainer", but it would require a fair bit of labour, and would be worth more than a new trailer if you were to pay someone to fix it.

My concern would be fixing it properly too. The last thing I want as a fellow road user, is a fully loaded trailer heading towards me and my family at 100km/h, minus its drawbar.

I would remove the floor completely, and see what other rust is in the chassis. If the rest of the sheetmetal is OK, you could make a new chassis, and use the old axle, springs, sides, guards, tailgates and coupling, and put a new floor in.
If the picture you show is the only major damage, you could just replace that one side rail, and then the floor.

[wheelinround]

:whs:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'd also have a serious look at how well the trailer is tracking now (including backing) and test how it balances when unhitched with a load.

'Cos if you do need/decide to rebuild the chassis, this'd be the best time to make any changes to axle positioning and rebuild it better than the original. :wink:

[dai sensei]

If that is the state of the floor and frame, what are the springs and axle like? Hope you didn't pay too much for it.

I have a 6x4 with 1200 removeable sides and canopy for sale for $150 at the moment, it may need tyres and a new floor, but at least it is not as bad as that one.

[Bouncingmolar]

[quote=Yonnee;868354]Tut, tut...:no:

The two things that determine whether it's worth fixing:
1. too much.. :doh: I paid 360 (once paypal generously gave an xmas discount). (link if ur interested (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=270321363257)) There were plenty cheaper in the trading post, but by the time u call up 2 hrs after its been published about 20 000 people have already called before you. It did however come with some nice wheels + a spare + a jockey wheel + rego...

2. Fixing would require all of my brain cells. The most welding i've done is behind my computer watching youtube how-to videos over the last few days. However I am not scared to tinker..buying equipment would be out of the question though so hiring equipment or someones services would be my only 2 options. Maybe bunnings leases stuff.... That option sounds like alot of reading.

I'm thinking of ripping up the floor as you say and seeing whats under. From what I can tell the left side rail for the chassis is wrecked. the other side looks to be in one peice although there is rust damage around the edges of everything to a lesser extent.

The other option is to resell it I guess and try again. :no:

sensai if you have rego and the frames good u shouldn't have too much trouble selling it.

Chidman, seeing as the left suspension is poking through the floor slightly, I think the trailer is probably sitting slightly lower on that side.

[Wongdai]

The stub axles, springs, frame and hitch are worth saving. Bodies are relatively cheap and can be bent up for you at any trailer place.

Go for a galvanised body this time, and it will last you near on forever.

[Wild Dingo]

mmmm I found an old 10x5 trailer at the tip yesty with a similar fault... only from what the bloke dropping it there said he drove his tractor over the drawbar!! yep both sides broken through and holding to the frame by a mere couple of centremeters of metal... but the rest appeared okay wooden floor but... anyway as I only had my 8x5 trailer with the 4ft high cage with me and he wasnt happy about my idea of him putting it back on his truck and bringing it here for me to fix... its still sitting at the tip :roll:

But I think it would have been an easy fix just cut of the existing drawbar peices hold onto the hitch and other stuff and rebuild the drawbar replace the floor with the sheets of steel I nicked from somewhere or other and bobs yer uncle! :2tsup:

Mate I reckon you should charge those camera batteries and start crawling around under and around it taking copious amounts of snaps and then upload them to here so Yon Young Yonnee and others can give yer words of advice on how best to fix her up... cause fixable she be from what youve given :2tsup:

Cheers
Shane

[Burnsy]

mmmm I found an old 10x5 trailer at the tip yesty with a similar fault... only from what the bloke dropping it there said he drove his tractor over the drawbar!! yep both sides broken through and holding to the frame by a mere couple of centremeters of metal... but the rest appeared okay wooden floor but... anyway as I only had my 8x5 trailer with the 4ft high cage with me and he wasnt happy about my idea of him putting it back on his truck and bringing it here for me to fix... its still sitting at the tip :roll:

But I think it would have been an easy fix just cut of the existing drawbar peices hold onto the hitch and other stuff and rebuild the drawbar replace the floor with the sheets of steel I nicked from somewhere or other and bobs yer uncle! :2tsup:

Mate I reckon you should charge those camera batteries and start crawling around under and around it taking copious amounts of snaps and then upload them to here so Yon Young Yonnee and others can give yer words of advice on how best to fix her up... cause fixable she be from what youve given :2tsup:

Cheers
Shane
So what are you doing in front of the computer today? You should be down the tip loading it up, was it a dual wheel 10x5 is pretty big for single axle although I guess it is plenty strong for a farm trailer that shifts bails of hay around!

[Bloss]

I'd be putting it back on ebay and seeing if you can find another person like you. IMO you paid too much and the effort to fix given what you describe are your skills and tools (ie: few) any effort you put in or pay for would be way more than it is worth. :(

[Yonnee]

:whs:

92885

This pic would have rung the alarm bells for me...

Unfortunately, I you did pay a bit much for it. If you can't do alot yourself, it'll be one expensive trailer when you've finished.

[Bouncingmolar]

yes it turns out i'm a doofus.

Guess what I've been up to on new years day. See attached pictures.

I attacked the trailer with my heavy machinery (axe and shovel.... )

There is a welder around the corner from where I live I might drag this roadunworthy beast down there and get him to tell me that its not worth it.

Anyway have a look at my pics and point and laugh

. :booboo:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Oh dear!

If you were one of our metalworking brethren (ie had the tools, time & inclination) you could still get a reasonably priced trailer out of it by salvaging the guards, hitch, axle, etc.

But paying someone else to do it... :no:

Bummer!

[Rossluck]

I don't think its that big a boo boo. People looking to build a trailer would have paid around that for the bits and pieces. Trailers have become so expensive.

Why don't you just give it a go? Remember, it's not all loss when you develop skills and buy tools and materials to do these things yourself. You have the tools, left over materials and some new skills for the next project. Strip that thing down completely and de-rust the good bits and rebuild the bad bits and put it together. Just take your time.

I have a similar project waiting for me.

[echnidna]

Good start, now you can easily work on the rotted sections.

I've got another trailer lined up that I'll do exactly the same thing on.

[Bazzmate]

You have way more than $360 worth of parts there. I've just gone through the exercise of pricing parts from a trailer manufacturer. Here's an indication of some new prices . . .

3 wheels (2nd hand) - $190
Jockey wheel - swing up - $55
quick release coupling - $26
tail lights - $22/pr
Hubs and bearings - $49/pr
axle - $74
Axle to spring fitting kit - $38
mudguards (black steel prefab) - $65/pr
Springs - $70?????? (I didn't get a price for springs)
That's $520!!!! + springs (plus the bonus tool box you have bolted on the side:D)
But wait, there's more . . . if the sides and tailgate are salvagable, that's a further saving as a sheet of 2400x1500x1.6mm zinc steel works out to be around $130 plus $70/hr for cutting and folding. I've been told to allow about 3hrs (or $210) for cutting and folding plus Grab, Snatch and Take (GST)
You might want to also make a phone call to someone like Metaland and get RHS (rectanglular hollow section) prices to calculate how much it would cost in materials to fix the chassis?
http://www.metaland.com.au/store_list.php?category=QLD&city=All
Anyway, if the lack of tools, etc. still holds you back from doing it yourself, at least you will have some prices to help with your sales pitch when you re-sell the trailer (hopefully for at least $360!!!!)
Cheers

[Bouncingmolar]

Hey Bazzmate thanks for all the info!!!! Maybe I shouldn't have given the poor bloke neutral feedback... ah well.

I'll checkout the metaland people.

Any ideas what I need to do this myself, I may as well look into that option as well seeing as I'd be able to reuse the stuff after, and it seems like a good skill to have.

I figure thick leather gloves, and a protective shirt and one of those visors would be a good start. There seems to be alot of types of welders, do I want one with gas?

[Rossluck]

I figure thick leather gloves, and a protective shirt and one of those visors would be a good start. There seems to be alot of types of welders, do I want one with gas?


Off the top of my head....

Grinder with metal cutting and grinding discs.
Welder
Helmet
Gloves
square
pencil
welding electrodes (I use WIA Ausarc 12P)
Wire brush
Time

Just buy a little stick (arc) welder to begin with. Get a cheapie from Bunnings or somewhere. Or, dare I suggest, look at Ebay. Welders go for pretty cheap around Brisbane on Ebay. You will have a frustrating time learning to weld, but it's a great skill to have. Just remember that ugly-but-strong is better than pretty-but-weak when it comes to welding. You can always tidy up later with the grinder.

Avoid gas welders (MIG/TIG) for as long as you can. The gas is very expensive for home handyman stuff.

[Yonnee]

Avoid gas welders (MIG/TIG) for as long as you can. The gas is very expensive for home handyman stuff.

I beg to differ... The rent on my bottle is direct debited, around $10 per month, and a bottle refill is less than $100 and lasts me 2-3 years depending on projects (current bottle is over 4 years). When I do a welding job for someone, I factor in a little extra for my consumables, so after several jobs, the gas ends up costing me bugger all, if anything.

[jatt]

If the price of gas scares u somewhat, maybe do what I did and pick up a unit that has the ability to run gas (has reg supplied) and run gasless.

Yes gasless wire is dearer, but for handyman use, a 5 Kg roll will last quite a while. Admittally welding sheet is better done with gas, but unless u are gonna use the welder heaps, then one can compromise.

Only my opinion.

[Bouncingmolar]

Ok I'm going to start a new thread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=873543#post873543)regarding newbie metalwork skills, that way I can come back to this thread when I've started doing something with the trailer

[Rossluck]

I beg to differ... The rent on my bottle is direct debited, around $10 per month, and a bottle refill is less than $100 and lasts me 2-3 years depending on projects (current bottle is over 4 years). When I do a welding job for someone, I factor in a little extra for my consumables, so after several jobs, the gas ends up costing me bugger all, if anything.

I was referring to home handyman stuff Yonnee. I've seen your work; you're far from a home handyman.:D The first welder people people buy should be a stick. If they continue then they move to a MIG or TIG. If they don't, the stick welder will sit around for years waiting for the occasional use. That's my argument anyway.

I have gas, but mainly I like my little Fronius inverter. I've discovered that if I use a 3.2 rod at 120 amps, and run it along the metal (touching the metal I mean) the welder holds the arc and produces a good weld on thin stuff.

[Yonnee]

i was referring to home handyman stuff yonnee. I've seen your work; you're far from a home handyman.
:b


the first welder people people buy should be a stick. If they continue then they move to a mig or tig. If they don't, the stick welder will sit around for years waiting for the occasional use. That's my argument anyway.
fair point.

i have gas, but mainly i like my little fronius inverter. I've discovered that if i use a 3.2 rod at 120 amps, and run it along the metal (touching the metal i mean) the welder holds the arc and produces a good weld on thin stuff.

[Bouncingmolar]

I have an embarrasing confession. I had a chance meeting with a local metalworker at my work. I bailed out when i figured he was happy to trade some services for a new trailer...........................

sorry for taking up all your guys time. I'll stick to wood i think. :doh::brick:

I think if i had of bought stuff I'd still have an unfinished wonky trailer ready to fall to bits.