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View Full Version : Who is using what brand paint ???



bitza500
26th Dec 2008, 10:42 PM
Hi Guys, well I am at my wits end, I have now tried 3 different brands of paint to give the girl a spruce up
over 2 weeks ago I painted some parts and left them to dry
on Christmas Day as I stay home and get work done (Peace at last)
I wrapped the parts that have had 2 coats of Dulux Polyurethane paint and thought 2 weeks was ample time for the paint to cure ??
So I wrapped the parts in clean fresh rags so they would not scratch
At 10.15pm Today I opened the rags to assemble the parts and the rags had stuck to the Paint
I know Ken had a bad time as well with Paint not drying same Brand to I think

So can anybody help me with a paint I can buy in Spray cans ( I am to damn lazy to get my spray guns out of storage or Truthfully I cannot find them)

I am not going to drive to South Australia and knock on Gene's Door with a 4WD full of lathe parts
So has anybody had any sucess with a certain type of paint as Killrust is next in line
unless someone can provide me with a better solution
I have used the cheap and nasty cans on parts that will never come in contact with Human hands and is OK on other bits I tried Failed dismally
So for the third time the gearbox is being stripped so I can start again
But what do I use and My Missus will not let me use the oven so I cannot cook them

Have I struck a raw nerve with someone who has had the same problem ??
And found a better product ??
If I have to go through all my boxes to find a spray gun I will but I just need to know a good Non expensive paint that will dry
all the best Derek
And it is plain old gloss black

wannabe
26th Dec 2008, 11:57 PM
I've just used White Knight Full Gloss Epoxy Enamel on the steady rest I've just made. I put the last coat on it on Monday and it's hardening up nicely. I know what you mean about Dulux though. I've got a can of Dulux Full Gloss Enamel to match my mill. Whenever I use it it's ages before it hardens. I'm not talking days either, I'm talking a couple of weeks before I'd classify it as dry. I've never seen a slower drying paint.

bitza500
27th Dec 2008, 12:19 AM
Hi Pete,
White Knight was the first paint I used and the first batch stuck very well
But the second batch you could rub the paint off after 2 weeks
This is why I am now going black with the parts as every company has a gloss black in Spray cans and is a time saver in aspects in Money wise after 3 types of paint and having to strip them back again
I was tempted to go and get some more White Knight again but it took 6 goes at Bunnings to match the colour and I still had to come back for more blue and black tinters to get it right so I am going to Bunnings look at all the paints and have another go as gloss black in Spray cans is sold by all the paint companies

all the best Derek

wannabe
27th Dec 2008, 12:40 AM
Based on the cost of decent spray cans I think I'd be looking to find my spray guns. Good excuse to have a cleanup in the shed. My shed might be a mess but I know where everything is and will rip the shed apart looking for it when I can't find something.
I used the White Knight Etch Primer first. It goes off very quickly. Touch dry in about 10 minutes I think and dries very hard. The instructions on the Expoy Enamel said you didn't have to use primer but I did anyway.

Just had a though. What did you thin the White Knight with? You are supposed to use thinners. I don't know what would happen if you used turps.

bitza500
27th Dec 2008, 09:18 AM
Hi Peter, I have on many occasions gone looking fo my spraypainting gear but as Ken will back me up on this
I have nearly 3 lathes 2 complete 4WD's and 1 completely in pieces about 20+ computers
and 7 large tool boxes of tools

This is before you get to the shelving and the bench

The White Knight paint was good and yes I sprayed it on with a gun and stuck like
S&%T to a Blanket

On doing the second batch mixed the same as the first and sprayed on Beautifull
left it for 2 weeks to harden (I HATE ENAMEL) was solid as a rock

One or a few parts painted was the tailstock which was duly assembled

one night and needing something to hold the old bones up I put my clean hand

(at the time I had mangled my hand after having a argument with a saw bench )

on the top of the tailstock as my mate was putting his or my old Tassie Devil together
when I had to move is when I saw paint on my hand and the tailstock paint missing

So I rubbed the paint and it just washed off like water leaving the primer which stuck solid
The second brand I left a week between coats rubbed down with 600 W+D and gave it a second coat and blistered and cracked up the paint

In Frustration as now this is just a Machine (NO LONGER THE LOVE OF MY LIFE)
I then went and bought some cheapy spray cans and it took and is still on the parts and I have yet to mark it

As the Gearbox will be wiped and kept clean HaHa I bought some Dulux Paint same as Ken 2 weeks went by and it was as hard as a rock so I unhooked it from my little homemade spray booth and covered it in a cotton rag clean as it was a old bed sheet that was ripped

then on trying to unwrap the gearbox I nearly spat the DUMMY as all that work to strip and prime and paint down the drain again

So I sat up last night looking at Machinery paint and Hopefully will work
As if you have seen some of my pics you will have noticed the PINK shifters in the background
WHY PINK YOU ASK ??
would you staeal something that was covered in pink paint ?? and it worked plus the pink has been on there for 12 Months or More
It is called Plasticote and is designed for painting machinery
I am not painting my lathe PINK, just if the paint sticks to Chrome spanners and are always used this is now my next Brand

So will let you know how it went
Bl@@dy Gene must have gone on Holidays as I would have liked his input even though the paint he used is very expensive he may at least be able to explain my problems

all the best Derek

wannabe
27th Dec 2008, 01:02 PM
I think it would look very nice in pink Derek, especially with the black as a contrast.:D It would probably go well with Footz's fingernails on another post here.

I know I'd be totally P'd off if I'd spent all that time prepping and the paint just peeled off. Paintings not my favourite past time. I always seem to stuff it up one way or another. I dont claim to even being a painters A hole.

I've seen people painting their tools pink or purple before. Really seems to stop the tools from walking.

Have you tried concrete paint they use for concrete paths etc. I know that stuff sticks and goes as hard as a rock. Or it used to anyway.

speedy
27th Dec 2008, 03:33 PM
I went to supacheap and bought hammertone in spray cans looks good (if you like the finish) and dries fast. The other alternative is the spay enemel for cars, dries fast and hard and you get a large range of colours, you could even match the colour of your work ute or car:U

.RC.
27th Dec 2008, 05:28 PM
I think you need proper industrial enamel paint that is oil proof probably with some lead in it as well to keep it shiny..

speedy
27th Dec 2008, 07:56 PM
I think you need proper industrial enamel paint that is oil proof probably with some lead in it as well to keep it shiny..


Depends on whether you want a shiny show piece or a working machine:U

bitza500
27th Dec 2008, 10:02 PM
I think it would look very nice in pink Derek, especially with the black as a contrast.:D It would probably go well with Footz's fingernails on another post here.

I know I'd be totally P'd off if I'd spent all that time prepping and the paint just peeled off. Paintings not my favourite past time. I always seem to stuff it up one way or another. I dont claim to even being a painters A hole.

I've seen people painting their tools pink or purple before. Really seems to stop the tools from walking.

Have you tried concrete paint they use for concrete paths etc. I know that stuff sticks and goes as hard as a rock. Or it used to anyway.

Hi Peteif you reckon the Concrete marking paint sticks ,well I used that originally on my tools as it was bright and did the job
when it wore off I went and picked up the first can of Pink I could find and happened to be Duricote

This paint is amazing it will stick to anything and stays stuck even when painting my tools I never preped them just hit them with the spraycan and it just does not come off easily
My biggest drama now is stripping the GEARBOX AGAINalthough this time I took the brass gearchange badge off and it is a different colour to the original Dark Blue this is dark Battleship GREY and is noway close to the rest of the lathe??

So Maybe a dab of Pink might brighten the old girl up Ha ha

all the best Derek

Ray39
17th Apr 2009, 05:47 PM
Hi
By the time I found this you have probably solved the problem as I see the question has been around for a while.
However you may be in luck or we could both be in the clarts if you follow me. In Dorset Rd. between Mountain Highway and Canterbury Rd. almost next to the United petrol station there is a Body Shop paint outlet. It took my attention one day as it had a board out front advertising industrial paint so thought i would drop in as I had the same dilemma. What they sell is in fact industrial enamel, quite fast drying (dont use on a very hot day) anyway it is intended for spraying but if you are reasonably quick with a good small brush it looks to go on really well. So far I have applied it to a number of small parts including the lathe bed and so far looking good. Now reading the thinners I purchased at the same time you can also get a hardener to make it tougher and retarder thinners etc. They do mix colours which I had them do, however not a perfect match but quite cheap and close enough for me as really just wanted to freshen things up. Unfortunately poor old killrust is now just a name not the stuff it used to be.
Hope this helps and I will take some pics as soon as i make a little room

mob
18th Apr 2009, 03:42 AM
I have finally painted the cabinet. Woohoo! I used two pack with a low pressure high volume spray gun, bit of a pain but I was satisfied in the end. Today I primed the headstock, bed and feet with a brush, because I couldn't face all the rigamarole with the sprayer. Big mistake. Looks like crap! Hopefully I can build up a better finish with a few extra coats of primer from the sprayer. Dreadful stuff to use.

bitza500
18th Apr 2009, 05:59 AM
hi gavan when using 2 pack paint make sure you use it in a welll ventelated area and wear a mask not a cheapy but a good mask as 2 Pack paint contains ARSENIC and can make you very sick and make your skin turn yellow
A mate of mine nearly died painting cars with 2 pack paint and not the right gear and he ended up in Hospital and now suffers with severe coughing and lucky to be alive

so be carefull as when I paint 2 pack I wear a respirator

As Ray said theAuto enamel paint is very good stuff which when hardner or a quick drying agent is the best

2Pack is for the Professionals and be warned it can leave you very sick if inhaled as I found out many years ago

all the best Derek bitza500

mob
18th Apr 2009, 01:29 PM
Good tips Derek. Perhaps I can add to them.
Any painting with a spraygun requires the same safety procedures, regardless of whether it's 2 pack, single pack, enamel, acrylic or whatever. Simple rule is - if you wouldn't drink the stuff, wear a respirator. If you wouldn't paint your skin with it, cover up. If you wouldn't use it for eyedrops.....etc. What do the spray can's labels say about ventilation, skin exposure and eyecontact?


Just checked out yesterday's work with the paint brush. B%$#ard stuff! :grumble:

hewn
21st Apr 2009, 11:23 PM
The paint I've found is really good is Protec 304 Equipment enamel used with hardener it dries hard and quickly, has good resistance to oil and keeps a good sheen which makes it easy to keep clean. They give a really good selection of colours or you can get a special made up. Protec on the web for more info, I don't work for them just like their paint.

Vernonv
22nd Apr 2009, 03:31 PM
... as 2 Pack paint contains ARSENIC ... I think you mean isocyanate. But yes it's nasty stuff and you are best to ensure that you have the proper protective gear if you are going to spray it.

bitza500
24th Apr 2009, 05:19 AM
Hi Vernon, can you recommend a good paint to paint the lathes with as if you know that bigger word you must know your paints as well so any brand spring to mind as I will be starting with bare castings

all the best Derek

Vernonv
24th Apr 2009, 10:34 AM
Hi Vernon, can you recommend a good paint to paint the lathes with as if you know that bigger word you must know your paints as well so any brand spring to mind as I will be starting with bare castings
Did I tread on your toes by correcting some misinformation? :((

As far as paint goes, I'd use an auto or industrial enamel. Brand is not really important as most decent paint places will only stock decent paint - although they may have a range from good (cheaper) to very good (more expensive). Find one that fits your budget.

tanii51
24th Apr 2009, 10:38 PM
im going to use ameron(ex croda) or protec depending on what i can find at the right price and colour at salvage places .plenty of info at their web sites and it works as long as you do the prep properly, if you go the 2 pac course be sure to use good breathing equipment

bitza500
25th Apr 2009, 12:06 AM
hi Vernon,No offence at all when I worked one of the former workers took up painting cars as a second job as his brother supplied the paint courtesy of his work

He was on average painting 1 car a night quicky car yard shiny jobs

One day he came into work looking half dead and said that the Arsenic in the 2 Pack Paint was slowing killing him so he had to stop

That is all I know that something in the 2 pack paint is very dangerous and he said it was Arsenic

I hate using 2 pack paint and worked as a painters assistant and it was just bloody terrible as we had be (ADVISED) by the paint company to drink as much (MILK)? to stop any legions forming on your insides ???

So I am the spray can kid as now having had such a bad run with good brand epoxy enamel I have a lathe which I spent a long time stripping and repainting but if the paint does not cure in a tin shed after a Month well something is wrong

all the best derek







Did I tread on your toes by correcting some misinformation? :((

As far as paint goes, I'd use an auto or industrial enamel. Brand is not really important as most decent paint places will only stock decent paint - although they may have a range from good (cheaper) to very good (more expensive). Find one that fits your budget.