PDA

View Full Version : Bisalloy question...



Yonnee
18th Jan 2008, 05:24 PM
I figure you blokes are pretty knowledgable, so I'll ask away...

How, if it's possible, can I tell if a sheet of steel I have is bisalloy?
And can I weld it with a MIG?


Yonnee.

glock40sw
18th Jan 2008, 05:33 PM
Shoot it.
Yep...Shoot it with a high velocity jacketed bullet.
If it dents it's not Bisalloy.
We use Bisalloy for our steel targets as it doesn't dent and cause craters for the lead to spray back at the shooter.

Yes, We weld it with a MIG

Yonnee
18th Jan 2008, 05:37 PM
:doh: Now why didn't I think of that!!!:2tsup:

Grahame Collins
18th Jan 2008, 06:28 PM
Steady on boys!

Its not as easy as that
Bisalloys aint Bisalloys so to speak.

There are a few grades of it and welding may be subject to your application for it.t it wrong in a critical situation and you will not have success.

Bisalloy 600
Bisalloy 700
Bisalloy 80/80PV

Bisplate 320
Bisplate 360
Bisplate 400

Some Bisalloy grades don't take preheat and in fact heat inputs must be minimal.

http://www.spwgroup.com.au/catalogue/SPW%20Section%206%20Welding%20Guide.pdf

May give you some idea.
Where you got it from and where it was used may give you some idea.
Reference it back to this
http://www.bisalloy.com.au/files/techman/technical%20manual1.pdf

If you don't know what it it is there may be some data somewhere on metallurgy make up and spark ID.
Other than than keep the heat inputs ,including the welding to a minimum. If its mig LW1 wire or stick use LH electrodes.

Grahame

glock40sw
18th Jan 2008, 08:00 PM
We use Bisalloy 360 for Steel targets.
We weld hanger brackets on the back with Mig (with Gas) with no problems. The plate is 10mm.

hux
19th Jan 2008, 06:03 PM
I would have thought one of the easiest ways was the price - it ain't cheap!!!!

Mate used some 4mm bisaloy for a bash plate on the front of a 4x4. No dents, no marks. But for the $$ you wouldn't want to either.

Grahame Collins
19th Jan 2008, 06:34 PM
Hi Craig,
Price is certainly an indicator .However they are some us in positions able to acquire,lets say , nil cost offcuts from generous employers.

Some times the provenance of the material is unknown.When that is the case things can get difficult.In most cases it is usually 360 but unless color coded or otherwise marked one is often left in the dark.

Many welder mis understand the welding procedures for such material and are inclined to preheat the buggery out of whatever unknown steel that comes across their radar.

My post was prompted by thinking about such situations. Its a bit of a duty of care thing I suppose, I would not want any one here reading the responses to gain the wrong impression and suffer injury or damage when welding failed due to incorrect procedure or material for the application.
Tha is why I often ask what is the application as it is much easier to give correct advice based upon that.

Grahame

Grahame Collins
19th Jan 2008, 06:39 PM
How, if it's possible, can I tell if a sheet of steel I have is bisalloy?

Late thought,

Hit it with a hammer and center punch.
If the end of the center punch turns into a nail punch ie flattens out- more than likely its a grade of Bisalloy.

Grahame

Yonnee
20th Jan 2008, 11:23 PM
Cool, Thanks Grahame. Time to find the safety goggles and a hammer!!

Price isn't a guide in this instance as it came at the best price of all. It was the temporary floor in a trailer I fixed and the owner didn't want it back. He worked in the steel industry and thought it might have been bisalloy. The sheet is quite large and is a good 5-6mm thick, and if it is bisalloy, then I have a few particular projects on which to use it.
If not, then I'll still use it, just not as sparingly.

Grahame Collins
20th Jan 2008, 11:44 PM
Yonnee
Its me again.
I have been googling again .Its all a matter of the wording in the search and found a Bulletin. Cut and paste as follows

< Drilling of Wear/Abrasion Resistant Grades
Bisplate 320, 360 and 400 grades may be drilled with
either cobalt type high speed steel drills or drills
equipped with replaceable carbide inserts.
With regards to the drilling of Bisplate 425 and 500
grades, we recommend only the use of drills equipped
with replaceable carbide inserts

Recommendations for Improved Results
• The supporting bars under the plate should be placed
as close to the hole as possible.
• If possible, use a plain carbon steel backing plate
under the Bisplate.
• The drilling head should be placed as close as
possible to the main support.
• Short length drills are preferred.
• The last part of the hole to be drilled should be done
with manual feed.
• Usage of adequate coolant (water and oil emulsion
mixture).>

In short if you can drill it with a cobalt drill you will probably have 326,360 or 400 Grade. Its probably the closest we will get to whatever grade it is.. Drill at 75mm or more from oxy cut cut edge as closer than that will be harder due to cut .

Grahame

Yonnee
4th Mar 2008, 12:20 PM
Well, one hammer blow later, one still perfectly good centre punch, and one countersunk centre punch mark...

Oh well. It still didn't cost me anything. And it's a fairly big sheet at about 5' x 6'. I have a fabrication job I'll use a bit of it for. Maybe even a fabrication table top... Hmmm.