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dazzler
11th Dec 2007, 10:10 PM
Hi

Not very exciting however took some pics for BIL so thought I would post the build up of my new plant trailer.

Brief is to build a plant trailer to take my skid steer loader and all its attachments which all up will weigh about 2100kg.

It has tandem wheels, dual electric brakes with breakaway system and rated at 3200kg and built from Duragal. 3700mm long x 1600mm wide not including the width of the wheels which will take it out to around 2050 wide.

Started with 150mm x 50mm x 2mm RHS and had the steel place cut them to exact length.

Squared up with builders square and then by measuring diagonally front to back so they were exactly the same length.

Here is the frame with floor bracing;

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62232

Here is the drawbar made of 100mm x 50mm x 4mm duragal. I took a length 4200 long and cut through exactly in the middle on one long side and the two short sides so that I could bend it at the middle into a big A shape. Then measured back on the rails the same distance and lined the ends of the drawbar on these lines so they were the same. Then measured and marked the middle of the trailer at each of the crossbars and ran a stringline from the front of the drawbar to the rear of the trailer and made sure they all lined up. Tacked it in place, rechecked and then welded it up.

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Havent mig welded for a while and usually hate GAL but duragal seems to weld okay.

Here are some of the welds so far;

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62235


Will add more pics as it comes along. Tomorrow I will be welding the floor on and hopefully the suspension points.

cheers

dazzler

glock40sw
12th Dec 2007, 07:29 AM
G'day Dazza.
Looks good. Are you using Gas or Gasless?

dazzler
12th Dec 2007, 08:05 AM
gasless......spatter spatter spatter :D

Fossil
12th Dec 2007, 11:24 AM
Hi Daz.

Looks good. :)

Is 2mm wall thickness up to the task?
I have built a few trailers before, and made one up around fifteen years ago for my 743, which weighed 2150kg with the 4 in 1 bucket, but I didn't have a hoe. The trailer was made with 150 x 50 x 3.2mm main frame, which weighed a fair bit. Even with the 3.2mm wall thickness, I greatly reinforced shackle points. I used 14" rims with Ford stub axles and 8 ply LT tyres, which gives better load capacity than 15" rims. I also used
50 mm axles.

I guess you are going by engineering specs using 2mm. I have a sometimes bad habbit of of overengineering anything out of steel. My current 7x4 off road trailer came in at 510 kg which is just 10kg over the limit.... meaning I have to have it inspected every year. Bummer!

Anyway, it looks good so far.

Fossil

dazzler
12th Dec 2007, 03:27 PM
Hey Fossil

Yeah wasnt so sure. Brother is an engineer and reckons it will be fine. I thought 3mm too however it is designed so that the machine actually sits within the sprung section.

The machine weighs 1450kg and the attachments will sit in front and I think they are about 300kg.

Funny though, just a little while ago I was looking over at some 3mm 100 x 50, looking at the machine, looking back, thinking of bracing, looking back.......:D

So I'm doing the hokey pokey, one foot in and one foot out of each camp.

Tomorrow I hope to get the machine and implements on and then I might run a top bar and triangulate it down to the side rails.

Time will tell I guess :rolleyes:.

cheers

dazzler

dazzler
16th Dec 2007, 09:02 PM
Titanic was launched out of the garage this morning :D garage cleaned and she was returned for final fitout;

Progress to date has been;

weld on suspension hangers;

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62561
62562
62563
62564

Welded in the floor

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62570

then fitted the springs

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62566

Fitted the jockeywheel and some bracing for a toolchest on the drawbar

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62568

then fitted the brakes

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and the wheels

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Tomorrow, weather permitting, I will get the ramps done and the machine and implements in place to work out how to set them up. Will also fit the tow hitch and chains.

cheers

DJ’s Timber
16th Dec 2007, 09:09 PM
Looking good Dazzler :2tsup:, you using electrics brakes there?

dazzler
16th Dec 2007, 09:42 PM
Looking good Dazzler :2tsup:, you using electrics brakes there?

Yep. Over 2t tare and they have to have a brake (break :?) away system that comes on if the trailer falls off. Electric was recommended as it is a single system as opposed to electric over hydraulic.

Fun using new parts but the trailer parts guys need probing with cattle prod. Most of the shackle holes etc are pressed out not drilled so the captivated bolts (knurled ones that shouldnt turn) were like the three bears porridge, only about a third fit right.

cheers

Sterob
16th Dec 2007, 11:55 PM
You are working like a man possessed!! Good stuff..

rpepper
17th Dec 2007, 11:23 AM
Great job Dazzler. Very professional.
As my old man used to say, "looks just like a bought one".:2tsup:

dazzler
20th Dec 2007, 10:55 AM
Hi

Few more pics;

I was sitting under an apple tree working out where to go to get some guards bent up and what to make the ramps out when an apple fell on me noggin and I thought.....owwwwww...then why not combine them.

So I made some very sturdy ramps out of 50x50x1.6;

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62836

Then welded some 30 x 30 x 6mm angle to the rear crossmember so they can move and adjust to different vehicles/machines if required;

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I covered the ramps in some 2.1mm treadplate with a very snug folded fit and these were welded to the sides of the ramps. I also used some tek screws to secure the middle of the plate and also as some extra grips on the plate for when its muddy. These ramps sit over the wheels and will be secured by something (coffee under the apple tree will fix that);

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62839

Had a test run on the trailer and ran the skid steer up twice with no deflection.

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Today is "Implement Day" where I need to build some frames to hold the trencher and auger on.

cheers

dazzler

pipeclay
20th Dec 2007, 11:11 AM
How much clearence is there between your ramp come guard and tyre.

dazzler
20th Dec 2007, 12:39 PM
How much clearence is there between your ramp come guard and tyre.

Just 1cm at the moment. There are some risers to go on.

Well spotted. I actually put the machine on and jacked up the left rear so it was off the ground and there was 1cm under. Not enough for confidence :rolleyes: and would also restrict any change in profile.

cheers

HappyHammer
20th Dec 2007, 12:47 PM
Top job Dazzler but why not put it in the back of the truck?:U:doh:

HH.

wheelinround
20th Dec 2007, 12:51 PM
often HH they drive away with a load to dump

HappyHammer
20th Dec 2007, 12:57 PM
often HH they drive away with a load to dump
True but you'd have to leave the trailer behind anyway so why not just leave the tracked monster and come back and get it? Unless of course it's the end of the day and it's too late to dump 'til the next day then you'd be stuck I admit.:?

It's just that I see a lot of bobcats and diggers in the back of trucks.

I like the trailer anyway Dazzler.:B

HH.

wheelinround
20th Dec 2007, 01:03 PM
True but you'd have to leave the trailer behind anyway so why not just leave the tracked monster and come back and get it? Unless of course it's the end of the day and it's too late to dump 'til the next day then you'd be stuck I admit.:?

It's just that I see a lot of bobcats and diggers in the back of trucks.

I like the trailer anyway Dazzler.:B

HH.

Dump on way home HH saves fuel etc.

HappyHammer
20th Dec 2007, 01:23 PM
Dump on way home HH saves fuel etc.
I've considered that but worried about getting arrested.:;

HH.

wheelinround
20th Dec 2007, 01:51 PM
I've considered that but worried about getting arrested.:;

HH.

Thats right no road side porta loo's in the country

dazzler
20th Dec 2007, 03:27 PM
Hey all,

Originally it was in the back of the truck.

BUT

When I ordered the machine the cattledog stated its length as 2950mm from end to end. So I bought a truck that was 3000mm inside the tray so it could reverse in (proper weight distribution) and the bucket would sit flat on the tray.

BUT

They import them without a bucket and put a local designed bucket on which is 70mm longer so she no fit no more without having the bucket raised over the tailgate. A lot of operators happily sit the bucket this way but it chips/wears away at the tailgate. I was also in the habit of jumping down from the truck which does my stupid knees no favours.

I also needed to carry the auger driver and trencher which could fit in the back with the machine but is a squeeze and pain to get off. So in the end I had to build a trailer anyway to carry either the ancillery stuff or the machine.

So after much debate went for an all in one which a number of the positrack operators use.

It can also be towed by a landcruiser or dual cab ute so adds some versatility in the future.

Plus I needed a project while work is slow until yellow pages and local directories come online in the new year. :D

cheers

Woodlee
20th Dec 2007, 04:15 PM
Hey all,

Originally it was in the back of the truck.

BUT

When I ordered the machine the cattledog stated its length as 2950mm from end to end. So I bought a truck that was 3000mm inside the tray so it could reverse in (proper weight distribution) and the bucket would sit flat on the tray.

BUT

They import them without a bucket and put a local designed bucket on which is 70mm longer so she no fit no more without having the bucket raised over the tailgate. A lot of operators happily sit the bucket this way but it chips/wears away at the tailgate. I was also in the habit of jumping down from the truck which does my stupid knees no favours.

I also needed to carry the auger driver and trencher which could fit in the back with the machine but is a squeeze and pain to get off. So in the end I had to build a trailer anyway to carry either the ancillery stuff or the machine.

So after much debate went for an all in one which a number of the positrack operators use.

It can also be towed by a landcruiser or dual cab ute so adds some versatility in the future.

Plus I needed a project while work is slow until yellow pages and local directories come online in the new year. :D

cheers


Like the idea of the mudguard two in one ramps.Very solid looking trailer.
A guy here in town who has a similar set up ,used old truck tyres for mudguards .
He cut them up with a jigsaw .Look just like two arcs bolted at the ends over the wheels with straight brackets coming off the trailer frame .
I asked about them once and he said they beat folded metal one coz they kept getting bent and buckled .The tyres just bounce back into shape .
I thought it was a good way to recycle tyres and get some flexiable mudguards.

Kev

Bob38S
21st Dec 2007, 11:05 AM
Great looking job Daz, appears to be well thought out and those alloy wheels do add a touch of class.

HappyHammer
21st Dec 2007, 11:25 AM
Plus I needed a project while work is slow until yellow pages and local directories come online in the new year. :D
Reason enough:2tsup:

HH.

Yonnee
22nd Dec 2007, 11:19 AM
Looking great Dazzler.

Love the idea of using the ramps as guards, solves the usual problem of providing storage for them. Bear in mind though, you'll need to fit a mudflap (either bolt-on flexible or permanent rigid) to one of the two rear outriggers. The regulations for building small trailers state that the guards must provide continuous protection between a point forward of a vertical line at the front most point of the front tyre, and a point no more than 230mm from the ground at the rear of the rear tyre.
Probably easier with this picture; (Page 31 of 37)
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/pdf/vsb_01.pdf

With your guard-to-tyre clearance, the thing about load-sharing suspension is that your axles will have heaps of travel just with the centre rocker of the springs pivoting, and that's without the springs flexing with the weight on it. (Back the empty trailer up onto a gutter with only the rear wheels and you'll see what I mean.)

What controller have they sold/recommended to you? There are many out there; some are great, some will leave you wishing you had bought a great one, and there are some that while legally they do the job, shouldn't be allowed to be sold in this country.

A couple of little suggestions for those finishing touches:

- Weld a couple of half chain links to the inside of your drawbar to hook your safety chain onto when not in use.

- Similarly, weld an offcut of your chassis (or exhaust pipe if you have a 7-pin round plug) to fit your electrical plug lead into when not in use).

- Run a minimum 4mm twin core cable for your electric brake wiring down the trailer. The blue wire in the 7-core loom just isn't big enough for 4 wheeled brake situations, and can lead some voltage drop causing the trailer to pull to one side. Also on this, don't earth the brake wiring to the trailer chassis, this is just asking for trouble.

Think about where you're placing your clearance lamps and where their associated wiring runs. You posted earlier that it will only be about 2050mm wide overall. If you're under 2100mm, you'll only need two white lights facing the front, but you can eliminate these if you put a red/amber light each side at the front and rear, which you'll need if it's over 2100mm anyway. (I'm a big fan of people being able to see my trailers at night. My car carrier will be lit up like a christmas tree.)


An idea for fixing your guards/ramps. Drill a hole either end of the ramp in the middle. Drill a coresponding hole through the outriggers each end of where your ramps sit. Weld a nut to the bottom these outriggers. Get a bolt long enough to go through the lot. Weld a 3-4inch long piece of 1/2in rod across the top of the bolt head as a T-handle allowing you to loosen and tighten them without having to find a spanner.
If you want some clearance for your fingers, get the T-handle bolt another inch longer, drill the thread out of a nut, and weld the nut an inch down from the bolt head. And if you really want to get clever, place a washer between this nut and the bolt head before you weld the nut on, then you can weld a bit of small chain to this washer, then attach the chain to the chassis so you dont loose each of these T-handles.

All the best with it. Looking forward to seeing it finished, but keep up with the progress photos.

Peter, "Yonnee".

Penpal
22nd Dec 2007, 12:42 PM
I am impressed by the design and workmanship especially the welding,a thought when you come to the electricals such as tail brake indicator set up get the new super dooper combination low wattage ones they are so efficient and kind to the vehicle connections,they use so little power the towing unit fuses are then safe from overload and you can afford to light it like a xmas tree,they cost higher in singles but kits much cheaper.They are fitting them in traffic lights around here.

Take care Peter:2tsup:

Yonnee
22nd Dec 2007, 01:01 PM
They would be LED lamps.
Try these ones, http://ledautolamps.com/products.htm
They're very well priced, top quality, and has now got quite a range, including ones with built-in reflectors.

dazzler
24th Dec 2007, 08:57 PM
Thanks Yonnee and Penpal for that advice. Sorry I hadnt seen the posts earlier but u know xmas.

Will do. Particularly thanks for the 4mm wire suggestion!

dazzler
24th Dec 2007, 09:24 PM
Hi

The electrics supplied (and opened and boxes ripped so I cant return them :rolleyes:) are;

Voyager 9030 inertia activated proportional braking system.

Breaksafe 5000 breakaway braking system

and a Redarc EB24A 24 volt converter.

Please oh please tell me they will be okay :p

Yonnee
24th Dec 2007, 10:44 PM
Hi

The electrics supplied (and opened and boxes ripped so I cant return them :rolleyes:) are;

Voyager 9030 inertia activated proportional braking system.

Breaksafe 5000 breakaway braking system

and a Redarc EB24A 24 volt converter.

Please oh please tell me they will be okay :p

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

The Voyager's perfect. Make sure the date sticker on the back is fairly recent.
The Breaksafe is also "THE" one to have.

Now, the converter. How many circuits does the EB24A have? The reason I ask is that you'll need one circuit to power the controller capable of handling 12 amps @ 12V, and a second to power the charging side of the breakaway unit...

...OK, scratch that. I just googled the EB24A. It seems that its main purpose is to allow hook-up to the 24volt brake-lights. It still requires hooking up to one of your two batteries. You could do this for your brakesafe charging too, but it does put some strain on the one battery.

You could get a 24 to 12 volt reducer with two circuits, or one with the capacity of around 20 Amps.

All the best with it. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.

dazzler
25th Dec 2007, 05:52 PM
Started to fit the handbrake cable to the electric brakes after a big xmas lunch.

The handbrake is actuated by a lever than engages the shoes. The lever is designed to move in a linear plane towards the front of the trailer and there is a small plate fitted to accept a sheathed cable on the backing plate. They are an ALKO system and even thier website doesnt show a sheathed cable to fit the backing plate :?. In the pic you can see the lever and the slotted plate.

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Trailer parts place supplied a long stainless cable handbrake kit which doesnt allow a linear pull as the pulleys attach to the side of the trailer and there is a minimum of about 20deg pull from straight. Not acceptable in my book. This is what the cable kit is like.

63193

Have searched online but unable to find something better. Oh well, will try tomorrow or when the business community comes back to work.

Yonnee
26th Dec 2007, 11:38 AM
This has always been a bit of a pain when it comes to a neat solution for running the handbrake.
Are you sure that the brake backing plates are AL-KO? They look like Dexter brake assemblies the way the handbrake lever pivots vertically. The AL-KO lever sticks out horizontally and pulls in a horizontal plane.

Be that as it may, it's only a handbrake cable and is not a critical part of your normal braking system. Whenever I fit up these brakes, I run the cable through the lever and back on itself long enough to fit the cable clamp on the coupling side of that cable bracket you show. Then with a hammer, close the gap in that bracket, capturing the cable in that bracket. (Make sense??) This way it will provide a forward pull for the lever. From here, alot of manufacturers run the cable through the spring hanger, and then to the cable adjuster at the coupling. You can buy those pulleys separately if you want to add more, or just weld a few 1/2 chain links up your chassis where you want the cable to run.

Hope this helps...

Yonnee

(BTW, I used to work for both AL-KO and Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies, who are the Dexter agents. So any Q's you have regarding the brakes...)

dazzler
26th Dec 2007, 06:09 PM
Thanks Yonnee

You saved me a heap of time trying to find an off the shelf solution.

Seeing as I will probably use the handbrake at least ten times a week I decided to go with a more permanant option.

Drilled out some 12mm x 25mm low tensile bolts ( had to drill by hand so didn't get them quite in the middle) ;

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63240

and then attached them to the backing plates so that the pull was straight.

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A little grease in the hole and she should be good for a few years. :D

cheers

dazzler

DJ’s Timber
26th Dec 2007, 06:47 PM
Great solution Dazzler :2tsup:

Yonnee
27th Dec 2007, 06:40 AM
Gotta love Aussie ingenuity.

Mind if I borrow that idea for my own car trailer???

Bloss
28th Dec 2007, 12:00 PM
Made my first trailer more than 30 years ago - not as ambitious as yours, just an 8x6 box with mesh panelled cage around the top, but later ones were. Great satisfaction and lots of little extras that no bought trailer provides.

You should take the time to do up some plans - I am sure many would buy them from you.

Good job.

Brickie
28th Dec 2007, 12:05 PM
A little grease in the hole and she should be good for a few years. :D



I keep telling the missus that..:D

boban
28th Dec 2007, 05:12 PM
What a top job you've done there mate. Just a couple of questions for you.

How did you determine where to put the wheels?

How much do you reckon this has thing has cost you in parts?

Yonnee
30th Dec 2007, 10:14 AM
I'll field the first part of Boban's questions.

The axle/s on a trailer must be located so that the trailer will tow safely when both empty or loaded. This is neither too much ball weight, nor too little.

For a standard type trailer, whether it be a box, cage, enclosed, camper, etc., there is a general rule of thumb for the axle location. The rule is the same whether it's a single, tandem or tri-axle trailer, the rule applies to the axle group. This rule is as follows;

"Excluding the drawbar, measure and mark the halfway point of the length of the body of the trailer. The centre of the axle/s should be placed 1/2" to the rear of this mark for every foot of body."
So, a 6 x 4 for example, should have its axle 3" to the rear of centre.

However...

This is not the case where a trailer is being built for a particular application or set load, such as a boat trailer, horse float, and in this case a plant trailer where a majority of the weight of the load is to the rear of the trailer. In these cases the axle location must be determined on a case by case basis, usually placing the axle slightly to the rear of the centre of the load. Bear in mind, as with Dazzler's trailer, load sharing spring sets will always transfer the load on or off the tow vehicle. Meaning that any weight forward of the centre hanger will be added to the existing towball load, and any weight rear of the hanger will be subtracted from it.

dazzler
30th Dec 2007, 01:36 PM
Gotta love Aussie ingenuity.

Mind if I borrow that idea for my own car trailer???

All yours :2tsup:

dazzler
30th Dec 2007, 01:42 PM
What a top job you've done there mate. Just a couple of questions for you.

How did you determine where to put the wheels?

How much do you reckon this has thing has cost you in parts?

Hey

Mine was pretty easy as the machine weighs close to 1500kg and is similar in length as they tandam axles are so the major weight is within the spring hangar/axle area.

Forward of the axles and machine is about 250kg of implements and seeing as its being towed by a truck the towball weight is not as critical. There are a few plant trailers similar to mine and they all seem to have the wheels very much towards the back so went along with the crowd so to speak. I also wanted the ability to unload without the truck hitched so this also required the wheels way back.

Havent taken it for a run yet but will do after new year when it goes to the weigh bridge.

I think its cost about $3800 to build and will add it all up at the end. There is $2250 worth of axles/brakes/controllers which bumps it up. Most trailer places wanted between $8000 and $9500.

Hope to have finished pics soon
:2tsup:

Pulpo
31st Dec 2007, 08:22 PM
It does surprise me how badly built or just poor quality trailers that are sold new.

Just on the cost the components cost were $2,250 and the steel $1,550?

Do you have an idea of weight yet?

The frame seemed very substantial.

Looks like a kick ???? trailer, well done.

Looking forward to final pics.

Pulpo

wheelinround
3rd Jan 2008, 03:24 PM
For Dazzler http://www.newcastletriton.asn.au/images/Badnam/Roadster%20020.JPG

dazzler
3rd Jan 2008, 07:29 PM
Hi

Well shes practically complete. Just have to finish off the holders for the mudguards and then shes off to the weighbridge and rego :).

Havent fully decided on the mudguard holding mechanisms but should have it sorted tomorrow as the engineering shop down the road has some overcentre clamps/thingys that may do the trick otherwise I will be going with the bolts up through them and a tnut on top.

Sprayed in Rustkill Aluminium which went on well and have had a number of passers by comment on just how well I weld aluminium :D :p.

I will post the final weight and build costs next week.

63874

63875

63878

63876

63877

63873
cheers


Dazzler

dazzler
3rd Jan 2008, 07:38 PM
For Dazzler http://www.newcastletriton.asn.au/images/Badnam/Roadster%20020.JPG (http://www.newcastletriton.asn.au/images/Badnam/Roadster%20020.JPG)


Now thats a trailer :p

Fossil
3rd Jan 2008, 08:56 PM
That looks SWEET!


Well done... that is a really great effort... you should be proud of yourself. :)

Yonnee
3rd Jan 2008, 11:32 PM
Top effort fella.:2tsup:

Not wanting to burst any bubbles, but just a couple of quick things so you don't knocked back at the RTA... depending on the officer you get, how well they know the trailer reg's, and how picky they want to be.

- Provision for number plate & light.

- Your front facing clearance lamps must be white. They can only be amber if they're mounted on the side and have 1/2 amber & 1/2 red.

****************************************************

Please tell me you didn't weld across the top of the drawbar where it meets the chassis...:no: *cringe*

wheelinround
4th Jan 2008, 07:20 AM
Agree with Yonee the orange lights at the front maybe a knock back as they should be white.

The only other thing I see is the implement (this could be the angle of photo) sharp edges protruding/exposed past the side


Otherwise top job Dazzlers :2tsup:

As for securing devices for guades why not a toggle pull down heavy duty rubber type try at Supertools or caravan suppliers boating accessories

Grahame Collins
4th Jan 2008, 08:17 AM
Please tell me you didn't weld across the top of the drawbar where it meets the chassis...:no: *cringe*

Yonnee is referring to a probable fracture point.It is at this point flexing and fracture can occur.Welding should be parallel to the draw bar.

Otherwise a really fine effort.One that I shall be filing away. The ramps come mudguards are out of the box thinking -great stuff!

Grahame

dazzler
4th Jan 2008, 12:19 PM
Top effort fella.:2tsup:

Not wanting to burst any bubbles, but just a couple of quick things so you don't knocked back at the RTA... depending on the officer you get, how well they know the trailer reg's, and how picky they want to be.

- Provision for number plate & light.

- Your front facing clearance lamps must be white. They can only be amber if they're mounted on the side and have 1/2 amber & 1/2 red.

****************************************************

Please tell me you didn't weld across the top of the drawbar where it meets the chassis...:no: *cringe*

Of course I didnt weld across the drawbar :rolleyes:, a burglar did it during the night. :D Actually it didnt even spark a thought not to as I thought seeing as it is under compression that it's fine.

I know not to weld across axles but lengthwise if needed. I take it I am wrong :(. What should I watch for - cracking on the top near the weld?

Any preventative ideas - reverse weld spray perhaps:p.

The amber lights were actually indicators as the Hino only has small ones at the front and the overall length is pretty long. I have the little white reflectors above them. Do you think I should change the lenses/wires and run them as clearance lights? The right stop/tail/indicator has the clear lense under the tail light for number plate provision. Hope it gets passed otherwise will add another one in the middle.

Cheers and thanks for comments/suggestions/critiquies

Dazzler

dazzler
4th Jan 2008, 12:21 PM
Yonnee is referring to a probable fracture point.It is at this point flexing and fracture can occur.Welding should be parallel to the draw bar.

Otherwise a really fine effort.One that I shall be filing away. The ramps come mudguards are out of the box thinking -great stuff!

Grahame

thanks Grahame,

Will need to keep an eye on it :2tsup:

Yonnee
4th Jan 2008, 01:25 PM
Of course I didnt weld across the drawbar :rolleyes:, a burglar did it during the night. :D Actually it didnt even spark a thought not to as I thought seeing as it is under compression that it's fine.

I know not to weld across axles but lengthwise if needed. I take it I am wrong :(. What should I watch for - cracking on the top near the weld?
Yes... As the weld should be stronger than the steel around it, it will start to fatigue the steel around it, particularly the drawbar as this has the most stress.


Any preventative ideas - reverse weld spray perhaps:p.

If only there was such a product...

If you want to go to the trouble, I would carefully grind away as much of the weld as possible without cutting into the steel, that way it might fracture what little weld is left. I put a triangular gusset on all my heavier trailers, a flat piece of steel that I weld flat against the front crossbar and extends down to the bottom of the drawbar...
63916


The amber lights were actually indicators as the Hino only has small ones at the front and the overall length is pretty long. I have the little white reflectors above them. Do you think I should change the lenses/wires and run them as clearance lights? The right stop/tail/indicator has the clear lense under the tail light for number plate provision. Hope it gets passed otherwise will add another one in the middle.

Cheers and thanks for comments/suggestions/critiquies

Dazzler

I would leave the indicators, not a bad idea to have. But any trailer over 1600mm wide is required to have white front lamps, however, they can be amber if they perform the job of a red/amber side marker lamp as well. Rather than convert/rewire those one you've got, I would add the clearance lights/wiring. Not much good people seeing you're turning if they can't see the trailer when you're not.

You'll be OK with that number plate set-up.

dazzler
4th Jan 2008, 03:10 PM
thanks mate :2tsup:

Yonnee
4th Jan 2008, 04:50 PM
No worries...

If you don't like the look of the gusset, you can put it on the back of the front crossbar. Does the same job, just out of sight.
63923

Fossil
4th Jan 2008, 05:57 PM
That's a good idea Yonnee.

After reading your comments I had a look at my off road trailer that I mentioned earlier in the thread. I have loaded it up with over a pallet of dry press commons, which weighs around 1600kg and the draw bar isn't effected at the weld. Yes.... I welded it up across the top the same as Daz. I will keep an eye on it from now on though.


Once again.... great job on the trailer Daz.

Yonnee
5th Jan 2008, 12:54 AM
How quickly it will start cracking, if at all, depends on several factors. How much load is forward of the axle, how heavy this load is, what size material your drawbar is made from, how often the trailer is used, the type of terrain the trailer travels along...
...it won't happen overnight, but it can happen over a long period of time.

Simple rule is, if you're going to build a trailer, don't weld across the top of the drawbar.:no:
If you've already done it,:doh: keep an eye on it.:B

If it becomes a problem,:o fix it.:2tsup:

boban
5th Jan 2008, 02:47 AM
This is a top thread and very timely I must say.

I'm hoping to do the same thing this year if I can.

Yonnee
5th Jan 2008, 09:55 AM
What sort of trailer boban?

I'm at the planning/designing/drawing stages of two trailers I'm going build for myself. Firstly a domestic garden/box trailer (Dad keeps pinching his back), and then a car carrier to transport my HT Brougham Wagon project car.
I'll start a thread shortly and take heaps of progress pics as I've got quite a few little custom extras in mind for both trailers.

boban
6th Jan 2008, 01:27 AM
Just a big box trailer. 3000 x 1300 mm. I've really got no idea when it comes to the design other than what I have seen elsewhere. I would also have welded the top of the drawbar but for this thread.

I would certainly be interested in the theory behind any design as well. Looking forward to your thread.

Yonnee
9th Jan 2008, 09:19 PM
C'mon Daz, is it finished yet??


I would certainly be interested in the theory behind any design as well.

As for the design, the bare chassis is pretty much a "no-brainer". Mainly it comes down to what the trailer is to be used for, how much weight you want it to carry, and what sort of suspension you want to run.

It's from the chassis up that you can have a play with different ideas on where things go, how things open and shut, what accessories you want to attach and what little extras you want to add to make the trailer more user friendly.

Me thinks it might be time to start my own thread, instead of hi-jacking Daz's.

dazzler
9th Jan 2008, 09:34 PM
Booked in for rego on friday :2tsup:.

I wonder if we should get the mods to change the thread to trailer builds and just keep it going so there is a bit of a library thats easy to find.

Thoughts?

Yonnee
9th Jan 2008, 11:37 PM
Booked in for rego on friday :2tsup:.

Cool!!


I wonder if we should get the mods to change the thread to trailer builds and just keep it going so there is a bit of a library thats easy to find.

Thoughts?

What about a sub forum in addition to the welding one under the Metalwork heading. Mark as "Trailer Forum" and slot in all the threads that have to do with trailers. There's quite a few Caravan forums out there, but very little to do with any other type of trailer. I would even volunteer to help Moderate it.

Would anyone else find this useful?

dazzler
11th Jan 2008, 12:06 PM
Went over the weighbridge..

640kg :)

Yonnee
11th Jan 2008, 01:01 PM
Doesn't even need brakes!!:2tsup:

Just don't put anything on it weighing over 110kg:doh:

WazOz
12th Apr 2008, 07:56 PM
Cool!!



What about a sub forum in addition to the welding one under the Metalwork heading. Mark as "Trailer Forum" and slot in all the threads that have to do with trailers. There's quite a few Caravan forums out there, but very little to do with any other type of trailer. I would even volunteer to help Moderate it.

Would anyone else find this useful?
I would like a trailer section, all the info on this site has been very beneficial, got a Toyota flat top one ton ute tray in excellent condition, needing to add the hangers springs wheels, drawbar, all of which I had no idea until I read these threads, was even given a solid axle (Toyota) saving a small fortune, will find an area on this site to post some queries on how to go about setting it up to the point of license, exciting stuff to make a trailer, and nothing like what you guys are turning out, congrats:2tsup:, and most importantly you willingly share, some sites just say, LEAVE IT TO THE PROS, no advice no encouragement,:no: scared for their jobs I guess, and of course we all have seen some scarey trailers out there, some even built by pros. Keep up the good work

Yonnee
12th Apr 2008, 08:10 PM
Hey Waz, and Welcome.

Have a look at my build (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=64389) as well... ...not trying to blow my own trumpet:B, but it might help you in the setting up of your trailer, as I've tried to put as much detail in as possible.

As for the "Trailer" section in the forum, I've been told maybe later.:2tsup:

And when you're doing it, please put up a post of your own build. And if I can be of any help, just let me know.

Yonnee.

WazOz
12th Apr 2008, 08:23 PM
Thanks Yonee, will post when I am about to start, and of course will read, take notes of what you have done, and follow a formula. Thanks for the welcome

billymm
20th Apr 2009, 11:35 PM
great work dazzler (http://www.woodworkforums.com/member.php?u=5232) & thankyou for the writeup & pics :2tsup:

Fossil
24th Jul 2009, 11:51 AM
I mentioned earlier in this thread that I had welded accros the top of the drawbar on my offroad trailer.

Well, I am in the middle of modifying and repainting the same trailer, and would like to inform evryone here that one of the afformentioned welds has in fact CRACKED :oo:

Not such a drama. I will have it all sorted this weekend but wanted to let evryone know.

Fossil

Nebular
9th Oct 2009, 12:25 PM
Hey Dazzler, Are you able to give me some idea how much it cost you for materials? I'm looking at building a couple of trailers, one for me and a mate, but wasn't sure of what sort of money I'm looking at. I know for the running gear (tandem axles and hangers, manual brakes, hitch, hubs,) was around $1000 from a guy in Victoria, but i was just wondering what other costs were for steel etc?

Great looking trailer thee by the way!
Thanks.
Ben.

dazzler
7th Nov 2009, 08:40 PM
Hi Ben

Sorry but I cant for the life of me remember. It was around the $2200ish plus tyres I think.

I used downgraded stuff for all non structural stuff so that saved a penny.

cheers

Nebular
7th Nov 2009, 09:32 PM
Thanks Dazzler. I am able to get some 100mm * 5mm SHS for free, but didn't want to use too much of it because of the weight, but it should save me a little bit of cash anyway. Will also look for dowwngraded stuff as you suggested.
Thanks again.

dazzler
8th Nov 2009, 09:03 AM
Hi

what purpose are you going to build the trailers to do?