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kr_cf
7th Nov 2006, 01:04 PM
Hi.
Would anyone out there be able to put me in the right direction for an operators manual for the transtig 180 welder.

Stringy
7th Nov 2006, 08:17 PM
Kr_cf,

Transtig 180 manual, had one several house moves ago and have no idea where it has gone. Still have welder & use regularly so feel free to ask any questions.
My local CIG dealer had an original manual and copied it for me about 10 years ago, it might be worthwile asking yours.

ISL33P
13th Jan 2007, 11:16 PM
Hi All,

could you please post a pic of your, just the front panel as i have just bought one and see if they were any different over the years.

Thanks,
Ariel

edit - looks like they have all been the same over the years.

PS i have found a copy of the manual and just waiting if they are willing to provide a copy

ISL33P
26th Jan 2007, 10:16 PM
for any of those interested in the manual for the 180, let me know as i finially got a copy on my hands

forge
27th Jan 2007, 04:49 PM
for any of those interested in the manual for the 180, let me know as i finially got a copy on my hands
Tried to send you pm .did not work.Im interested in a copy please pm me with your details,Regards,:)

ISL33P
27th Jan 2007, 05:00 PM
just email me your address and i will post it out once i copied it all at work during next week

Stringy
28th Jan 2007, 03:44 PM
ISL33,

I would love a copy of the transtig 180 manual:2tsup: , had a big search for mine at the start of this thread to no avail. The local CIG agent closed many years ago:( .

This welder was not a goer when purchased, 2 new diodes required, and had fallen from ute. Frame was rebuilt using uni-strut with new wheels/castors and bottle rack. Other aditions include the on/off switch.

All Transtig 180's are basically the same and use the AC transformer common with the Transarc MMAW (stick) machines. Some have the optional remote control and gas solenoid.

39164

ISL33P
6th Feb 2007, 09:59 PM
sorry all for no reply, just got access back to my computer. please see if you can pm me your details all again and i will get it organised as soon as i can.
Stringy it looks the same as mine just different colours, that's all.

I wonder what needs to be done to adapt a amp (foot or finger) control ?

forge
8th Feb 2007, 07:41 AM
sorry all for no reply, just got access back to my computer. please see if you can pm me your details all again and i will get it organised as soon as i can.
Stringy it looks the same as mine just different colours, that's all.

I wonder what needs to be done to adapt a amp (foot or finger) control ?

A Bit hard as your pm comes up with this:
ISL33P has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her.:U

Stringy
8th Feb 2007, 04:13 PM
ISL33P,

The remote would only be able to open the gas solenoid (optional) and maybee power on/off to he handpiece. Moving the shunt in and out to adjust amps would never have been an option due to the design of this transformer:no: . Therefore having the remote to the handpiece wouln't be of much use.

my transtig was resprayed with whatever was lying about to stop it rusting.

Please PM (wish I knew what this means:( ) me, my details are in my profile thingy. and if known what is the acronym "SWMBO":doh: . Hope it is not refering to my S****d Wife Making Bad Omlets.

forge
8th Feb 2007, 09:53 PM
[QUOTE=ISL33P;456968

I wonder what needs to be done to adapt a amp (foot or finger) control ?[/QUOTE]

Have seen a project a while ago in Model Engineers Workshop,about improving tig welders.They used some small pulleys,motors from printers or some such.I think it would be a lot of work but could be done (because you want to :D )Seem to remember the 180 cig tig was manufactured under license from a large us welding company, perhaps Miller.Do a search on tig foot controls,that may give you some ideas. I had my welder changed from scratch start to hi freq.by a welding machine repair guy.I was thinking of doing the foot pedal amp control,but i have to many other projects on the go.Have you seen the system old fashioned valve radio used to change stations and the same time move a "stick thingy" that shoved which station .Some sort of endless loop.Good luck

ISL33P
8th Feb 2007, 10:53 PM
Sorry all, my private messaging has since been enabled so please send me your details. i am planning on putting it on cd in pdf format and sending it out. a lot easier and more easily reproduced at the best possible standard.

forge, im onto it, ill see how i go.

ISL33P
7th Apr 2007, 08:35 AM
sorry all for not getting around to do the photocopying of this manual yet. i will try and get it done this week.

darkhorse
17th Apr 2007, 09:52 PM
TO ISL 33P

I have just joined the forum and would be grateful if you could provide me with a copy of the transtig 180 operation manual

ISL33P
5th May 2007, 07:31 PM
Hi All,

I have it all done...sort of. It is a jpg file per page, approx 33 pgs and 16mb. would you like it on cd ? If so, i will just make it $5 delivered which will cover the cd cost and postage. i think this is the easiest way.

forge
6th May 2007, 10:18 AM
Hi All,

I have it all done...sort of. It is a jpg file per page, approx 33 pgs and 16mb. would you like it on cd ? If so, i will just make it $5 delivered which will cover the cd cost and postage. i think this is the easiest way.
Send you pm ,with my details

Kalte
30th May 2008, 09:22 PM
I'm a starting buisness, and I just bought a used transtig 180. I've used more advanced welders in the past, But this is the first bit of older equipment I've bought. With the thought 'old=more robust' I have a old youngs model C stick welder and I can't ever imagine buying anything else. So I decided to go with the youngs transtig 180. Problem is, this welder I bought doesn't seem to want to start an arc very easily, even with the high frequency turned on to get the air preionized. The most I've been able to do is to get it to start an arc around the 130amp range, weld for a little there, then after a time I can bring it down to lower amperages, down to say 20 just by scratch starting. But it's as if something in the welder has to 'warm up' before it will start an arc, otherwise leave it be for over a minute, and it's impossible to start below 130 amps and definately impossible with out the highfrequancy start enabled. I'm thinking to myself "jeeze, this goes down to 7 amps??? How am I supposed to weld down to that??" Considering the age of this welder, I'm betting something inside has gone bad and only works well when it's warmed up. I plan on taking it to a welding repair place, but I was hoping anyone here could give me an idea as to what could be wrong, so I'm a bit more informed when I talk to the repair guy. Thanks again.

Grahame Collins
30th May 2008, 09:46 PM
Somewhere on the unit there maybe a opening that covers the points.They may need a file an re set

No idea as to what the gap should be.
Grahame

Stringy
30th May 2008, 11:23 PM
Think there are 4 rectifier diodes (13 years since I looked at this), 2 of the ones in mine were faulty when I purchased it. I would spark but not sustain an arc, I'm sure they are on the right side, left is the power lead and bridge setup, the whole side cover needs to come off. This is leco teritory and it sounds like the whole machine including HF points need a service.

Kalte
31st May 2008, 12:07 AM
When I first pulled it off the crate, I opened up the case to have a look inside to see if anything looked out of place. I did note the three contact points that reminded me of motorcycle points. I would imagine that these should look exactly the same, clean, flat and gapped correctly - might give those a good going over with a diamond file and find out what the correct gap should be.

Considering the age of this welder, and the fact that the 4 diodes look to be origional, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt in the slighest to replace them. I just wasn't sure if this could be the only problem. Bad diodes would, I assume, cause sluggish rectification and/or the problem I was having with it 'needing to warm up' before it would strike an arc with out too much trouble.

I was just curious as to if it could be anything else in the system.

Also, when running the high frequency, is it suppose to cut out automatically when the arc is struck? or does it keep running overtop? and is this a bad thing? (the machines I used to use, everything was all automatic, pedal run and such - not a manual monster like this)

Stringy
31st May 2008, 12:22 AM
On my old transtig the HF is either on or off, no auto cutout for starting. I scratch start on carbon & ss and use HF for AC Al only.

Other faults, don't know, but I doubt things like bad conections(usually get worse as the machine warms up), 240/415/480 bridges being wired wrong would give the effect explained.

steran50
30th Aug 2008, 08:37 PM
Hi All,

I have it all done...sort of. It is a jpg file per page, approx 33 pgs and 16mb. would you like it on cd ? If so, i will just make it $5 delivered which will cover the cd cost and postage. i think this is the easiest way.
Hi seen Your post while looking for a Manual for a Cig Transtig 180 ac/dc Welder. I have only just bought the Welder of Ebay I am still waiting its arrival. Do You still have the Manual ?. If so how much for a copy ?.
Thankyou :)

engineer
8th Oct 2008, 02:44 PM
Tried to send you pm .did not work.Im interested in a copy please pm me with your details,Regards,:)

I'm also interested in a Transtig 180 manual. Can you help? Peter ([email protected]

ISL33P
9th Oct 2008, 09:55 PM
not a problem. only have photocopy. i am doing a few tomorrow so I will just mke an extra one for you.

just email me [email protected] your address and I will send it off.

trav-ke55
1st Mar 2009, 12:15 PM
Hi, i have 1982 transtig 180 tyhat i would love to get a manula for as mine has some issues that need to be addressed. Do you still have copies of these????
Thanks
Trav

engineer
1st Mar 2009, 02:04 PM
Send me your email address. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with these machines.

No HF either (1) bad spark gap (2) bad high voltage capacitor (3) high voltage transformer burnt out (suitable replacements on ebay for about 10 to 20 dollars US plus postage).

Poor welds on DC means one or more blown diodes. Easy to check with a battery & torch bulb. The Diodes are low spec 150 amp 300 volt as used in a number of CIG machines. Two of the four diodes are forward polarity and the other two are reverse polarity (marked with an R). Any diode that size or with larger volts/amps should do although note they are stud diodes with I think a 1/2" stud diameter.

The last two electric welders I looked at were full of metal filings as they were sitting next to other machinery and work benches. Clean these out with compressed air because I could imagine they might vibrate with all the magnetic flux around and cause shorts in the main transformer and choke.

trav-ke55
1st Mar 2009, 07:23 PM
Send me your email address. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with these machines.

No HF either (1) bad spark gap (2) bad high voltage capacitor (3) high voltage transformer burnt out (suitable replacements on ebay for about 10 to 20 dollars US plus postage).

Poor welds on DC means one or more blown diodes. Easy to check with a battery & torch bulb. The Diodes are low spec 150 amp 300 volt as used in a number of CIG machines. Two of the four diodes are forward polarity and the other two are reverse polarity (marked with an R). Any diode that size or with larger volts/amps should do although note they are stud diodes with I think a 1/2" stud diameter.

The last two electric welders I looked at were full of metal filings as they were sitting next to other machinery and work benches. Clean these out with compressed air because I could imagine they might vibrate with all the magnetic flux around and cause shorts in the main transformer and choke.
There is HF there but it seems very weak, we have faced and gapped the points, repaired the chock slides and the always busted/striped nut assembly on the choke.
We also had to wire in the welder for 3 phase, would a possible incorrest wireing on the bridge possibly cause this issue to, when we bought the welders from defence force the plugs had been cut off.
Ill send you a PM with my email addy, thanks for your efforts.

Matty5700
1st Mar 2009, 08:24 PM
Welcome to the forums trav-ke55, glad to have another GV metal worker on the forums, hope your welder gets fixed.

Matt.

ISL33P
3rd Mar 2009, 09:17 PM
anyone who wants one, just pm your mailing address and i will post one out.
just have to find some time to scam the copier at work ;)

gizzmothings
22nd Jun 2009, 08:59 AM
Hi there i was wondering if you could email me the manual i just found your post thanks Dyson


Hi All,

could you please post a pic of your, just the front panel as i have just bought one and see if they were any different over the years.

Thanks,
Ariel

edit - looks like they have all been the same over the years.

PS i have found a copy of the manual and just waiting if they are willing to provide a copy

engineer
22nd Jun 2009, 11:19 AM
1) See attachment.

2) In regard to other questions on this thread about differences over the years, from my observations there were differences but only in the presentation of the welder. I think the insides remained basically the same, as follows.

Early versions might have been blue/white colours whereas later ones were red/black colour.

Early versions had a larger box with a solid handle made from small bore pipe bolted to the side of the welder whereas later welders had a smaller box and a handle made from bent chromed wire (8mm?), threaded on the end and bolted to the front face or top of the box. These are often bent out of position because where they are mounted is a bit weak to drag the weight of the welder around.

Early versions with the large box were on three wheels with one castor on the front. Later small box versions had four wheels with two castors on the front.

Late small box versions were built on a platform that included and extension at the rear to sit the gas bottle on.

Very early versions might or might not have had an access hole on the side to get to the points (I'm not sure). There was an interim big box version which had a points access hole midway up the side. I said interim because if you remove the access plate there are no points behind it. These are lower down and to reach them you still have to take the full cover off the machine. Later machines moved the points so they were behind the access cover. I suspect CIG moved the points around the inside of the case to stop stray high frequency transmissions going into the main welder coils. These later units had all the high frequency gear shiedled with metal panels on the bottom left hand side of the machine.

Early and late models had the high frequency switch swapped with the 'on' light position.

There was an optional gas solenoid switch but this just turned an optional solenoid valve on & off. There was nothing fancy with this machine like current sensing for automatic operation or remote current control.

Also, there is a possiblity that late model tig machines might not have had lifting lugs as CIG appears to have deleted these on its mig welders in later years. They reduced the duty cycle with smaller components which made them lighter and I presume the thought was two persons could lift the migs onto a ute.

ISL33P
26th Jul 2009, 08:27 AM
i can only post them since they are scanned copies of the one i got

forge
2nd Aug 2009, 09:19 PM
i can only post them since they are scanned copies of the one i got
O'k Please let me know costs etc.
foggyforge<at>gmail.com

Grahame Collins
2nd Aug 2009, 09:35 PM
Is this close ?

http://www.murexwelding.co.uk/mrxcont/arc/Instruction%20Manuals/Tradestig%20AC-DC180.pdf

Grahame

Garry 3
26th Jun 2012, 10:38 PM
Now this thread is back to life if ever so briefly I'd like to ask if any members here have had any success finding a manual for the old blue Trans Tig 180.

Is anyone else here still using these old machines? I know the inverters are great as I have a pulse tig inverter as well but there is something about these old machines that makes it hard to part with them...kinda like the old timex, Takes a lickin keeps on tickin.

Regards
Garry

skipdh
28th Jun 2012, 12:48 PM
Hi Guys

I'm looking for a manual as well. Happy to pay costs.....

Thank you

steran50
28th Jun 2012, 01:53 PM
HI:),
I should have a Copy of the Manual somewhere, I willl try and find it Tonight for You both. I didn't keep the Welder that I bought as there was something wrong with it.

steran50
29th Jun 2012, 09:26 AM
HI:),
Guys I have had a look for the Manual, but I have not been able to find it as yet. I will keep on looking for it, hopefully by the end of the Weekend I will have found it. In the meantime have a look at the attatched PDF for the Murex Transtig as it may be of some help.

skipdh
2nd Jul 2012, 08:05 PM
I rang cigweld today and they emailed me the following docs. Excellent service.

enjoy. I would be interested if someone has a schematic.

Kind Regards
Skip

214324

214325

steran50
2nd Jul 2012, 10:25 PM
HI:),
That's great that You got a Manual. I had a look for the Copy I kept when I Sold the Welder, but I haven't been able to find it - I was sure I had seen it recently (must be those Shed Gremlins). I think the first PDF from memory is the same as the Manual that I had.

RVK 355
2nd Jul 2012, 10:56 PM
I have got a Manual for a CIG 150 AC/DC tig, i will scan and save all the pages since i have sold the welder.

Maybe would could make up a sticky with all machine manual!!!

Garry 3
2nd Jul 2012, 11:07 PM
I have got a Manual for a CIG 150 AC/DC tig, i will scan and save all the pages since i have sold the welder.

Maybe would could make up a sticky with all machine manual!!!

That's a good idea, many of these old machines are probably onto their 7th owner by now and the manuals are just a memory.

Garry

RVK 355
13th Sep 2012, 09:28 PM
OK, i have scanned and have a copy of the user manual for the CIG 150 ac dc transtig, its in a pdf format, does anyone know if it can be uploaded or hosted on this site!!

ISL33P
29th Sep 2012, 08:18 AM
Apologies to everyone that has pm'd or replied. It was a combination of 2 thing, I kept on putting this off and not being able to find (look properly) for the file.

Here it is

festy_
11th Oct 2012, 10:56 AM
I've had my TransTig 180 for a few years now, but recently moved house and had to re-wire it for single phase.
The other day after swapping the terminals over to 240v I fired it up from a GPO and I heard the HF buzz for half a second, then it tripped the RCD.
It didn't throw a CB, just the 30mA RCD that protects all the GPOs and lights in the house. My family was not impressed :-

Do these welders have a problem with RCDs? Is it caused by leakage through the transformer windings during the initial current inrush, or HF getting back into the mains, or do I have a faulty welder? I'm fairly sure I've got the 240v wiring right - the terminal labels inside the case match up with the manual I downloaded from here....
I noticed in the instruction manual they recommend running a separate earth wire to limit EMF, has anyone had to do that?
I'm going to get a 32a circuit installed just for the welder and wasn't planning on an RCD for that circuit, but after reading the wiring standards it seems I'll have to fit one so would like to avoid constantly tripping RCDs if I can.

skipdh
12th Oct 2012, 05:12 PM
I run mine through a 32 amp outlet which is protected by the RCD. I was experiencing random RCD trips, on start-up, and found by placing another cap across the line fixed the problem.

I can't remember the size I used but it's probably similar in size to the one that comes installed with the unit.(only a few uF) I think it was encapsulated in epoxy IIRC...

Hope this helps..

Skip

sultanabran
25th Oct 2012, 05:14 PM
OK, i have scanned and have a copy of the user manual for the CIG 150 ac dc transtig, its in a pdf format, does anyone know if it can be uploaded or hosted on this site!!

Hi RKV 355
I have just picked today up my ebay CIG 150 transtig and would greatly appreciate a copy of your manual.
cheers. Sultanabran

engineer
25th Oct 2012, 09:40 PM
The random rcd tripping could also be due to dust build up inside the welder and around the HF area. Check the mains plug and the area where the mains attach to the welder. I've had a dead cockroach and a dead rat trip my rcds.

Also, rcds add up all the leakage. All your white goods and machinery will have some leakage and your welder might just push it over the cumulative limit. Fit a dedicated rcd for the welder. RCDs are so cheap nowadays that you can afford to have one for every circuit.