PDA

View Full Version : Jeweling/circle polish tool, done very easy



Zeth4500
16th Sep 2021, 03:53 AM
so the problem with putting this tool together has always been attaching the damn scotch brite. just to explain what this tool, its an abrasive tool thats inserted into a drill press (it doesnt work with hand drill) and its forced against a metal plate in which the abrasive grinds the surface to cause a circular pattern

many methods have been devised for this, velcro, glue, rolled up sandpaper in a small pipe etc, but i have not yet come across something similar to what i eventually managed to throw together

the construction is simple. M16 threaded rod, disc at the bottom, 2 M16 nuts
its constructed by first putting on a nut and then positioning the nut so that it keeps the disc just a bit above the threaded rod so you get a bit of a gap to fill out with welding

we have sold off our lathe, but i found it that carefully grinding the end on belt sander works well if you just keep light grip with left hand and use right hand to kind of "stroke" it to rotate, otherwise you may be able to cause the belt grinder hitting the threaded rod to cause the rotation itself but you need a piece of metal to push against it with to cause very low friction with the object you apply pressure with

next up you put a piece of scotch brite around the disc so that it touches the threaded rod, a nut, and preferably a disc is then put on the threaded rod so that it keeps the scotch brite into place
this system is very easy to work with as you can very quickly change scotch brite- but really you rarely have to do this as you can simply grind the outer layer of scotch brite on a belt grinder and the scotch brite will go an extra mile

you can get a large plate finished fast if you crank the drill press up to 3000rpm and dont clamp it down.
393988393989

Briangoldcoast
16th Sep 2021, 12:17 PM
HI Zeth,
I'd love to see some pics of the jewelling results your tool makes please

nigelpearson
16th Sep 2021, 06:44 PM
I'd love to see some pics of the jewelling results


Bottom of the second photo?

clear out
17th Sep 2021, 08:41 AM
This is engine turning isnít it ?
Done bit using a dowel and grinding paste from memory.
H.

wheelinround
17th Sep 2021, 09:15 AM
Looks great something I've always admired yet to have a go.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

jack620
17th Sep 2021, 10:11 AM
Here are some notes on the subject I found, but haven't yet tried. :)

Ambrosia
17th Sep 2021, 10:22 AM
A 3M roloc scotch brite pad with a roloc drill arbor does the same thing as far as I can see. Thatís what I use.

https://www.3m.com.au/3M/en_AU/p/d/b40064719/

Leigh


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Grahame Collins
17th Sep 2021, 06:43 PM
There needs to be some form of jigging to :

Keep the swirls in a straight line
and have a method to equally space the "jewels".

If either of these are overlooked the results can look pretty crappy in a larger size unit.

We found this out in doing an aluminium jeweled dash for a race sports car.If the x + y increments are not kept equal it sticks out like DB's.

Grahame

jack620
17th Sep 2021, 08:24 PM
Thatís what I use.

can you please tell me what grit you use? And given you live in my neighbourhood, where you get them from?
TIA.

Zeth4500
18th Sep 2021, 05:05 AM
There needs to be some form of jigging to :

Keep the swirls in a straight line
and have a method to equally space the "jewels".

If either of these are overlooked the results can look pretty crappy in a larger size unit.

We found this out in doing an aluminium jeweled dash for a race sports car.If the x + y increments are not kept equal it sticks out like DB's.

Grahame
yes i havent quite figured out how to make a simple machine for dishing out maybe 20mm of spacing with a single click, i just do it by hand and it takes quite some concentration to get it well. but ive managed to do that, simply positioning the jeweling tool just outside the center of the last jeweling circle
it also works well on zincplated parts
interesting with the steel wire brush
one interesting thing is that if you glue it on, you can have maybe 50mm plate that you attach the scotch brite on, but if you only attach 10mm piece of scotch bright dead center, you will make 10mm jeweling
the wire brush seems perfect for making smaller jeweling, which is oftenly very difficult to me since i have used rolled up sandpaper stuck in a small metal pipe- and i did make a small configuration for this where you can push out the sandpaper using a screw on the top to get more "milage" and at the same time able to mount it in a drill press

my boss usually complains about me making "weird" stuff, but this one plate for our bandsaw he havent yet complained about- i take it hes simply baffled haha.
you need to see it in motion to really get the gist (video underneath)
https://gyazo.com/07008e074d8e846755e5d8607025ceff

BobL
18th Sep 2021, 11:23 AM
An X/Y vice/table would produce a pretty regular spacing.

Ambrosia
18th Sep 2021, 12:02 PM
I bought the roloc arbor from Total Tools as a kit with some sanding disks. I used the blue pad - no idea what grit.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/c9ed9f1c8ca1e0ed373d9d3f9b093913.jpg
My first attempt:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/316718bf153383987383850b734d87dc.jpg

As Bob suggests, trying it on the drill press was hopeless. Used the y axis on the mill with a DRO for overlap.

Leigh


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

jack620
18th Sep 2021, 01:34 PM
Here's a pretty good video on the subject. Includes using an X-Y table with DRO.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY7sCiahxHA

jack620
18th Sep 2021, 01:38 PM
I used the blue pad - no idea what grit.

Thanks. The blue is 240 grit.

https://www.totaltools.com.au/123449-pferd-50mm-very-fine-quick-change-surface-conditioning-disc-combidisc-5pc-47200083 (https://www.totaltools.com.au/123449-pferd-50mm-very-fine-quick-change-surface-conditioning-disc-combidisc-5pc-47200083)

Grahame Collins
18th Sep 2021, 03:51 PM
There is some extra material I found.

I have been looking at some early pics of the Spirit of St. Loius aircraft.
It s is beautiful compared it to some other jewelling.

Here is some more information on setups.

https://ezinearticles.com/?Engine-Turning---Jeweling-Guide&id=622286

Grahame

Zeth4500
18th Sep 2021, 09:10 PM
Here's a pretty good video on the subject. Includes using an X-Y table with DRO.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY7sCiahxHA

nice, reminds me that i did use one thing to control one axis, i clamped down a piece of square rod horizontally with the drill press table so that i could control it like that, then i just slided it in one direction and eyeballed the distance in between
but as im mentioning that i think i have an idea for very easily controlling the distance in between the swirls
simply a piece of steel, maybe 30mm flat piece of steel
the square rods have a stop 30mm from the end ontop, the 30mm flat piece of steel is constructed so that it can push the plate 30mm to the left
this is a bit of tinkering but with the weather blowing the right direction it should work
i believe acquiring a machine dedicated to doing exactly this is out of the picture unless you do it as a business
maybe some machine thread rod could work but you would want a fairly large size to avoid cranking it too much
by any means we wanna avoid having to measure anything up manually

i have also played around with loosening the top of the drill press so that it can swing freely and then carefully putting down the swirl patterns, carefully as the top might move if you press it down hard
with scotch brite you dont need to press very hard because the spongy material will bite without full compression

394033
this one here isnt mine, but its possible to do even more advanced patterns, but for this having very accurate control would be more important
if you really wanna add detail you can heat color the finished product

394034
(yes i know not very evenly distributed heat coloring) heres my 25kg lead hammer in steel skeleton that i created jeweling pattern on, due to its extreme weight it was difficult to even eyeball the spacing adequatedly, some parts of this beast i had to hold the hammer with my left hand so it wouldnt fall off the table- unevenly heat tinted because i was limited to using a small regular oxyacetylene torch, and it was a full 25kg of material to heat up

Harry72
20th Sep 2021, 11:07 AM
I remember seeing some years ago they slotted 1/2 the length some wood and screwed it to a fence on a drill press, the material had a pin/tab on it to register in the slots. The drill press was set up for woodwork with a adjustable table top/fence
Seems pretty simple, cutting the slots perfectly even would be a little tricky but doable, Id imagine you guys with a mill could drill super accurately spaced holes in a length of steel and use a pin to locate the material... probably solder the pin on?