Z height setter options

[j3dprints]

Hey anyone got any z height setters they'd recommend

I've seen the vertex ones for around $400 I'm just wondering if it's really necessary to shell out that much. Thanks

[Michael G]

Personally, I use a bit of 0.5mm shim.

Michael

[snapatap]

We tried some cheaper ones from somewhere at work and they were absolutely crap, they were not very repeatable. We went back to vertex ones. from memory you bought a optimum mill? that's a pretty good machine for home use, If you buy the cheapest tools you can you will cause yourself a lot of frustration. We went down this road at work, cheap endmills and collets from aliexpress, boss wanted to save a buck and it ended costing more in time, due to tool failure and poor tool life.

[snapatap]

Just remembered i have seen some good DIY ones made with a dial indicator, just need to find the link i bookmarked.........

[j3dprints]

We tried some cheaper ones from somewhere at work and they were absolutely crap, they were not very repeatable. We went back to vertex ones. from memory you bought a optimum mill? that's a pretty good machine for home use, If you buy the cheapest tools you can you will cause yourself a lot of frustration. We went down this road at work, cheap endmills and collets from aliexpress, boss wanted to save a buck and it ended costing more in time, due to tool failure and poor tool life.
yep got an optimill, I was told using paper or shim stock was one way which would eventually break end mills.

[BaronJ]

Hi j3dprints, Guys,

Whilst I use a shim (25 thou feeler gauge) like Michael, I also use the fine feed and feel the touch by moving the chuck back and forth by hand. Zero the depth gauge and go from there. I can usually get within a thou or less of a size.

[j3dprints]

Thanks an experienced machinist mate said id eventually break endmills doing it. I thought what he meant was I would break them during a normal program cause the shim method of touching off was not accurate to ensure good z height for when a program runs. I did not think he meant I would go down in Z until my endmill snapped while being measured or touching off a job.
If the shim method only risks your tools when you are actually doing it, screw it I'll do that then until my needs can actually justify a $400 or $200 tool setter.

[Michael G]

The important thing is not to be heavy handed; I wind down slowly while jiggling the shim back and forth. As soon as I feel some grab I stop. I must admit that in the past I have occasionally chipped/ crushed a point if I'm being impatient.

Michael

[j3dprints]

The important thing is not to be heavy handed; I wind down slowly while jiggling the shim back and forth. As soon as I feel some grab I stop. I must admit that in the past I have occasionally chipped/ crushed a point if I'm being impatient.

Michael

I'm probably buying a tool probe so I'll just go down to the job with that

[BaronJ]

Hi j3dprints, Guys,

You can make a good probe using a battery and an LED for very little cost.

I hadn't realised that you were using a CNC machine ! You can make a probe that will output a logic signal with a battery and a couple of resistors.

[j3dprints]

Hi j3dprints, Guys,

You can make a good probe using a battery and an LED for very little cost.

I hadn't realised that you were using a CNC machine ! You can make a probe that will output a logic signal with a battery and a couple of resistors.
ah yes, I meant a haimer type 3d tester though, don't think you could make that.
With regard to a probe that outputs a signal (to tell z to stop, or whatever, on contact) I would definitely be buying one for my cnc if the machine not crashing depended on it, as the machine is quite pricey.

[BaronJ]

Hi j3dprints,

The electronics of a contact probe are easy, the mechanics a little more difficult !

Basically the probe completes a circuit between itself and the workpiece. Though there are some probe devices that use ultrasonics to detect contact and make measurements. They are exceedingly complex devices.

385057
Something like this. A cheap 3 volt coin cell and any old red led. Break the circuit where the little arrow is.
When they touch the led lights up. I've tried the same circuit for edge detection, it works very well. I used a rubber block and alloy foil for "Z" detection. The rubber block preventing damage to the work.

For a logic output replace the led and contact break by two resistors, and make the contact short out the lower one. You will have to adjust the values depending upon how much current your logic input requires.

[snapatap]

The shim method will work to get you started if coin is tight, but once you have a height setter you will wonder how you ever did without it. Some other advice i can give you is: be very careful buying cheap toolholders, i wouldn't trust the quality of some of the cheap offerings on ebay, if the taper is not spot on it will chew your spindle out fairly quickly.