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bollie7
27th May 2019, 09:21 PM
Yesterday I picked up an almost new 1.5Kw 3 phase motor and a "still in the box" 4Kw VFD for $125.

My intention is to fit the motor to my little McMillan lathe (Honden) to make it a bit nicer to use.

The VFD has turned out to be a copy of a Huanyang. Its called a "HY" series. Made by Isacon. Even the model number is the same as the genuine Huanyang. Bugger.

I didn't realise that until I got it home. Anyway I've wired it up and got it running and the motor runs ok. So that's good. I still have to figure out how to get it to soft start. Even at a low frequency its still got a bit of a hard start.

I've done a bit of research online today and I think I've got most of the settings right however I cant figure out how to get a soft start on it.

With genuine Huanyang that I have set up on my mill it does a really soft start. Its just starts to turn with no "thump" which is what Id like to achieve on the lathe.

As the HY appears to be a poor clone of the Huanyang maybe a soft start is not possible.
The other settings I cant get my head around are the parameters numbered.

Pn 12 (set at 50Hz atm)
Pn 13
Pn 14

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.

PDF of the user manual attached
thanks
Peter

379615

malb
27th May 2019, 10:33 PM
According to the parameter lists in the manual Pn 08 is used to set the acceleration time (range up to 650 seconds) and Pn 09 is used to set deceleration times in the same range. Pn 06 can have one of two values and determines whether the motor coasts to a stop (power to motor removed) or is decelerated (motor remains powered and drive frequency decreases in accordance with Pn 09). There does not appear to be similar parameter to switch from hard start to accelerated start.

Hope this helps.

OxxAndBert
28th May 2019, 07:41 AM
Is Pn08 still the default 10s setting? I'd have thought that would give it a pretty soft start...

Steve

bollie7
28th May 2019, 08:16 PM
Pn 06 set to 2
Pn 08 set to 2
Pn 09 set to 6

I have tried a few different settings for the above but it still has the thump when it starts.
I probably wont have a chance to do much more with this for the next few weeks.
peter

bollie7
28th Oct 2019, 08:47 PM
Well after around a 5 month delay I've finally gotten back onto this little project. I've made a foot mount for the motor and fitted the motor to the lathe, wired up the VFD and its running fine.
On fitting the new motor I was able to line the pulleys up better than its ever been. It runs a lot quieter now. probably a combination of pulleys in alignment and a 3 phase motor.

However at this point I don't have any external controls fitted.
Being a cheap clone, the VFD manual leaves a lot to be desired.
According to the book a "1-5K" potentiometer is suitable. I asked one of the electronics teachers at work about this today and he reckons a 5k pot would be fine.

383069



I bought one of these from Jaycar this arvo, wired it up to test and changed the Pn 03 setting from 2 (panel button) to 1 Potentiometer. (page 12 user manual in my earlier post)
Unfortunately the pot had no effect.
So can anyone offer some suggestions on this please? Maybe I am deciphering the book incorrectly?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Peter

BobL
28th Oct 2019, 09:54 PM
I bought one of these from Jaycar this arvo, wired it up to test and changed the Pn 03 setting from 2 (panel button) to 1 Potentiometer. (page 12 user manual in my earlier post)
Unfortunately the pot had no effect.
So can anyone offer some suggestions on this please? Maybe I am deciphering the book incorrectly?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Peter

Hooking up the pot is usually just one step in the process.
Usually there are some jumpers that need to be moved
AND
Some programming parameters that have to be set.
The most important parameter is that which tells the VFD to use the input terminals as a source of control

bollie7
29th Oct 2019, 10:23 AM
Bob.
I haven't found any reference to jumpers in the user book for this VFD. The real Huanyang I have on my mill has jumpers.
The only reference to a pot I can find is on Pn03 and Pn19

383080383081

I'm not 100% sure what "Multi segment" means. I'm assuming its some sort of preset-able frequency range assigned to numbers ie Number 1 =X frequency. If that's the case then it's probably something I wont need.
Anyway my morning break is over, best get back to work.
Peter

BobL
29th Oct 2019, 10:38 AM
Bob.
I haven't found any reference to jumpers in the user book for this VFD. The real Huanyang I have on my mill has jumpers.
The only reference to a pot I can find is on Pn03 and Pn19


It looks like Pn03 is the one. Have you changed it ?

bollie7
29th Oct 2019, 12:41 PM
It looks like Pn03 is the one. Have you changed it ?

Bob
Yes.
Pn04 is "Source of Runtime command with range 1-2" 1= panel button 2 external signal control

I have tried it with Pn03 set to "1" Potentiometer
and
Pn04 set to "2" External signal control.

Also tried with

Pn03 set to "1" Potentiometer
and
Pno4 set to "1" = panel button

I wonder if the external pot will not work without external start & stop switches?

I'll play a bit more tonight. I'm sure its just a matter of figuring out the manual.

peter

bollie7
29th Oct 2019, 08:44 PM
Well, this has got me stuffed.
I had another play when I got home this arvo. Cannot get it to work from the potentiometer.
I jury rigged some switches and relays to try the remote start and stop and that works fine.
I've tested the potentiometer and it appears to be ok as well.
At this point I have no idea where to go from here.
Unfortunately the company that makes these things doesn't appear to have a website and I think it would be a waste of time calling them.

I've been searching online but, whilst there are lots of copies of the user manual, I haven't found anything where someone has set up an external pot and got it to work.
Bugger.
If I cant get this thing to work with an external pot I might cut my losses and buy a genuine HuanYang. They can be bought for around $150.
Someone might want this one where they are happy to run it without an external speed control.

peter

bollie7
29th Oct 2019, 09:30 PM
One thing I forgot to mention before is,when Pn03 is set to 2 for the panel the display shows whatever I have the frequency set on. ie 50.00
However when Pn03 is set to 1 for the pot, the display shows 34.30
Don't know what that indicates.
peter

Stustoys
29th Oct 2019, 09:41 PM
Have you looked on the board for a jumper?(or a place for one). While I cant find it in the manual either, as Bob said and you know the Huanyang needs something to switch between internal pot and external pot. While the picture of your VSD doesnt show the pot markings the drawing of the label does, so I'm guessing internal pot is an option.

Stustoys
29th Oct 2019, 09:43 PM
However when Pn03 is set to 1 for the pot, the display shows 34.30
Well I'm guessing it means you don't have Pn11=50 which was my "long shot". So that's something

BaronJ
30th Oct 2019, 02:11 AM
Bob.
I haven't found any reference to jumpers in the user book for this VFD. The real Huanyang I have on my mill has jumpers.
The only reference to a pot I can find is on Pn03 and Pn19

383080383081

I'm not 100% sure what "Multi segment" means. I'm assuming its some sort of preset-able frequency range assigned to numbers ie Number 1 =X frequency. If that's the case then it's probably something I wont need.
Anyway my morning break is over, best get back to work.
Peter

Hi Peter,

JMTPW ! I read that to say Pn 03 should be set to 3 and also Pn 19 should be set to3 as well.

HTH.

bollie7
30th Oct 2019, 07:47 AM
Hi Peter,

JMTPW ! I read that to say Pn 03 should be set to 3 and also Pn 19 should be set to 3 as well.

HTH.

I don't think I've tried that combination yet so will give it a whirl. The worst I can do is let the smoke out.:):)

Edit. Looking at the list of configurable parameters again, you might be onto something. My panel doesn't have a pot so changes in frequency are done using the buttons. Pn03 "Source of runtime frequency" lists no 1 being for a pot. I've been assuming that its for an external pot. Maybe it actually means an internal pot (if fitted). So tonight I'll try setting it to 3 "External 0-5V signal"

thanks
peter

bollie7
30th Oct 2019, 08:15 AM
Have you looked on the board for a jumper?(or a place for one). While I cant find it in the manual either, as Bob said and you know the Huanyang needs something to switch between internal pot and external pot. While the picture of your VSD doesnt show the pot markings the drawing of the label does, so I'm guessing internal pot is an option.



Nothing visible with the terminal cover removed.
peter

bollie7
30th Oct 2019, 08:46 PM
I don't think I've tried that combination yet so will give it a whirl. The worst I can do is let the smoke out.:):)

Edit. Looking at the list of configurable parameters again, you might be onto something. My panel doesn't have a pot so changes in frequency are done using the buttons. Pn03 "Source of runtime frequency" lists no 1 being for a pot. I've been assuming that its for an external pot. Maybe it actually means an internal pot (if fitted). So tonight I'll try setting it to 3 "External 0-5V signal"

thanks
peter


BIngo - sort of. Tried it set to External 0-5V signal and away it went. However when the pot is turned back towards minimum the vfd stops before the pot has reached its full travel.
I measure it and the readings across terminal 1 and 2 (wiper) are 0.674 Ohm and across terminals 2 and 3 4.66K.
So maybe what it says on the diagram for the pot 1-5k means exactly that. A pot with a range from 1k to 5 K.
Ive just been researching potentiometers but as yet I haven't found any reference to one with a set range apart from zero to what ever the other value is.
Is such an animal available?
If not I'll have to make a mechanical stop of this one.
At least progress is happening.
Thanks BaronJ for the suggestion.
Peter

BobL
30th Oct 2019, 08:53 PM
BIngo - sort of. Tried it set to External 0-5V signal and away it went. However when the pot is turned back towards minimum the vfd stops before the pot has reached its full travel.
I measure it and the readings across terminal 1 and 2 (wiper) are 0.674 Ohm and across terminals 2 and 3 4.66K.
So maybe what it says on the diagram for the pot 1-5k means exactly that. A pot with a range from 1k to 5 K.
Ive just been researching potentiometers but as yet I haven't found any reference to one with a set range apart from zero to what ever the other value is.
Is such an animal available?

What about putting a 1KΩ resistor in series with the low end of the pot.
That will make it 6kΩ at the top end but I doubt that will do anything as it will still have the 5V at the top of the pot.

bollie7
30th Oct 2019, 09:05 PM
What about putting a 1KΩ resistor in series with the low end of the pot.
That will make it 6kΩ at the top end but I doubt that will do anything as it will still have the 5V at the top of the pot.

Bob.
Now you are talking black magic to me. :) I'm not an electronics person. I know enough to know that I know bugger all.
So. Please bear with me. I'll try what you have suggested.
Thanks
Peter

Stustoys
30th Oct 2019, 09:07 PM
BIngo - sort of. Tried it set to External 0-5V signal and away it went. However when the pot is turned back towards minimum the vfd stops before the pot has reached its full travel.
I see you've got it sorted. I finally twinged, Pn3=1 must be for in internal pot if fitted!(there's your jumper ;) )


RE your pot. It isnt a logarithmic pot is it?

bollie7
30th Oct 2019, 09:22 PM
I see you've got it sorted. I finally twinged, Pn3=1 must be for in internal pot if fitted!(there's your jumper ;) )

I wont be posting a pic of my cobbled together assortment of wires, micro switches and relays though. lol. Hopefully next weekend I will be able to make a start on the new control box. I've got most of the bits.



RE your pot. It isnt a logarithmic pot is it?

No its linear.
peter

BaronJ
31st Oct 2019, 03:16 AM
Hi Peter, Guys,

Glad you now have it working :2tsup:

As Bob says, just stick a 1k resistor in the bottom end to raise it above zero, though I would have thought that reducing the speed to a full stop might be desired. Don't forget to put an insulating sleeve over the resistor, you don't want it shorting to anything.

bollie7
31st Oct 2019, 08:16 AM
Hi Peter, Guys,

Glad you now have it working :2tsup:

As Bob says, just stick a 1k resistor in the bottom end to raise it above zero, though I would have thought that reducing the speed to a full stop might be desired. Don't forget to put an insulating sleeve over the resistor, you don't want it shorting to anything.

Will do.
I will have all the controls in a box mounted to the headstock of the lathe.
Id prefer to have the pot not stopping the motor for two reasons. 1) the safety side of it. I can see a time when the pot has been used to stop the motor but the stop switch hasn't been pushed in (then forgotten about) and then the pot turned by accident (or design) and the motor starting again unexpectedly. 2) I want to keep the controls the same as what I already have on my mill.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
peter

bollie7
1st Nov 2019, 07:34 PM
Now I have proper lift off. The 1K resistor has done the trick.
Speed control is now good. Atm I've got the lowest frequency set to about 20Hz and the motor will run right down to that and still keep turning. No idea how that would be with a load on it but I don't intend to leave it set that low.
BobL and BaronJ. Thanks for accurate advise on this. Most appreciated.
Thanks to everyone else who also contributed their thoughts.

Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to make a start setting up the control box.

peter

simonl
3rd Nov 2019, 08:11 PM
Hi Peter,

I'm late into this thread but read most of the posts to get to speed. I recently used one of these VFD's for my mill. It seemed I was unsuccessful at running the VFD with an external POT so I used the multisegment frequency selection.

When I tried to use the POT, I too saw what seemed to be a "random" frequency displayed on the screen. I was very odd. Fortunately for me I didn't really need the infinately variable speed and so discrete frequency selection was quite satisfactory.

I concur with you in that the manual is a little misleading.

Good luck with the POT!

I am undecided as to whether the cheaper cost of these VFD's (over a genuine HY) is worth the pain.

Simon

bollie7
3rd Nov 2019, 09:22 PM
Hi Peter,

I'm late into this thread but read most of the posts to get to speed. I recently used one of these VFD's for my mill. It seemed I was unsuccessful at running the VFD with an external POT so I used the multisegment frequency selection.
At first I couldn't get the pot or multi segment working.


When I tried to use the POT, I too saw what seemed to be a "random" frequency displayed on the screen. I was very odd. Fortunately for me I didn't really need the infinately variable speed and so discrete frequency selection was quite satisfactory.
With help from BobL and BaronJ I finally figured out I was interpreting the book wrong. Once I set Pn03 to 3 "External 0-5V signal" the pot started working. It would shut the VFD off when wound back to miniuim though. Again with help from BobL and BaronJ I put a 1K resistor in series with the "ground" wire and it now runs as I wanted it.
Have you checked that setting on yours?


Good luck with the POT! See above


I am undecided as to whether the cheaper cost of these VFD's (over a genuine HY) is worth the pain.

Simon Hearing you. If I had known before I bought it that it was not a HuanYang, I probably wouldn't have bought it. Live and learn.
I have a HuanYang on my mill with a remote pot which gives infinitely variably speed and I love it.

Peter

simonl
4th Nov 2019, 02:25 PM
Sorry, thought I was all over the conversation!

Nth I lost count o f all the different combinations of parameter settings and wiring combinations so there's every chance I may not have tried what you ended up doing. I definitely didn't try a 1k resistor inline with the ground! Who would have thought of that!!!

Now that it's set up it works fine and it's as good as any other of my HY VFDs. But getting there was a PITA.

Mind you, you still got a bargain!

Simon

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

bollie7
8th Nov 2019, 07:52 PM
I've got the external control box wired, mounted and running. Just have to work out where I am going to mount the magnet and sensor for the Tacho now.
Still have to fine tune some of the settings but pretty happy with the install. Well worth the time and effort.


https://youtu.be/wSCWiecji0U

Peter

BaronJ
9th Nov 2019, 01:23 AM
Hi Peter,

Looking good !

I would not use silicon round that post ! I would use some felt or knitting wool pressed into the gap, then it can easily be removed if needed rather than trying to scrape away silicon filler full of chips.

Though about the only chips I can imagine getting up there, would be Brass. They seem to find their way into the most non intuitive places ! Having had to fight the zip on my jeans the other day :o

simonl
9th Nov 2019, 10:19 AM
That's nice. I do like the sound of that too. I would be interested in your feedback as to whether you get a better finish with a 3 ph motor. I have read that you can improve the finish purely by changing from a 1ph to a 3ph motor because they are smoother in running. Not sure how true that is but I would be keen to see what you think.

I have a 3ph motor waiting for my lathe. I may even buy another one of those isacon VFD's since I know how they tick now.

Simon

BobL
9th Nov 2019, 10:56 AM
That's nice. I do like the sound of that too. I would be interested in your feedback as to whether you get a better finish with a 3 ph motor. I have read that you can improve the finish purely by changing from a 1ph to a 3ph motor because they are smoother in running. Not sure how true that is but I would be keen to see what you think.

All things being equal I doubt this is the case from a pure 3P tp SP point off view. The rotational inertia of chucks, gears and pulleys on a lathe would smooth put any pure SP/3P differences and factors like speeds, bit choice, profile and setup, are going to be way more dominant in this space. Next would come things like lathe rigidity and vibe.

The last point, vibe, is interesting. Most 3P motors tend to be better made than cheap SP motors so 3P motors have less vibe. After I started testing motors for vibe I've found that some cheap SP can be pretty crappy vibe wise otherwise a well made SP motor can be just as smooth as a 3P motor.

As an example, when I converted my SP 3HP dust extractor to 4HP 3P, the SP motor without the impeller attached had more vibe than the 3P motor with impeller attached.

simonl
9th Nov 2019, 01:56 PM
It sounds like a realistic argument Bob. That's why I started the sentense with "I have read" ! That was my disclaimer to saying I'm not sure how true it could be! :D

Simon

BaronJ
9th Nov 2019, 07:47 PM
Hi Guys,

Has anyone noticed that single phase two pole motors vibrate more than the single phase four pole motors of the same size even without anything on the shaft ! And six and eight pole motors still less.

Three phase motors should be even better than these under the the same conditions.

Ignoring out of balance rotors, the vibration is caused by the fundamentally unbalanced magnetic forces acting on the iron work inside. Certainly with single phase motors that have more poles the magnetic fields are more and more balanced as the number of poles increases.

bollie7
9th Nov 2019, 09:03 PM
Hi Peter,

Looking good !

I would not use silicon round that post ! I would use some felt or knitting wool pressed into the gap, then it can easily be removed if needed rather than trying to scrape away silicon filler full of chips.
I was actually thinking of something like "no more gaps". It doesn't stick as well as silicon so easier to remove but I'll think about what you said. As its a hobby lathe I reckon if I end up working that fast that a lot of swarf is going up there, then I will obviously have to slow down a bit. :D


Though about the only chips I can imagine getting up there, would be Brass. They seem to find their way into the most non intuitive places ! Having had to fight the zip on my jeans the other day :o That's almost a TMI moment.:)

bollie7
9th Nov 2019, 09:19 PM
Got the tacho working today. End up gluing the magnet to the change gear end of the spindle and made a bracket to hold the sensor.
Whilst the display looks pretty, unfortunately I think its a dud. Readout fluctuates all over the place. reading say 380 rpm then jumping to 1400 rpm and back down to 600 etc.
The laser hand held I have on loan atm is very consistent and I am inclined to believe it over the other one.
When I got this early this year I tested it using my battery drill as the rotating part and I had all sorts of weird displays.
I'm pretty sure I either put up a post on this forum about it or replied to one and someone with more knowledge of the dark art of electronics suggested I try a different power supply. Which I did at the time and that seemed to make it work ok.
I've just been searching for at least 30 minutes to try and find those posts and I cant find them.
Today I have tried 3 different power supplies with the same results with all of them

This is the unit I have
4 Digital LED Tachometer RPM Speed Meter + Proximity Switch Sensor NPN (https://www.banggood.com/4-Digital-LED-Tachometer-RPM-Speed-Meter-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN-p-1045439.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN)
which I bought from Banggood for the eye watering price of around $14aud at the time.
If anyone has any suggestions I'd be most grateful to hear them.
Peter

bollie7
9th Nov 2019, 09:47 PM
Another thing I noticed today is that the motor has a bit of a whine to it. I only noticed it when I dropped something and bent down to pick it up (thus having my head closer to the motor).
I remember when I first played around with the Huan Yang on my Mill motor that it whined at first. After a couple of years I have no idea what parameters I changed that stopped the whine.
Now that I know its there, I can hear it (just), when the motor is running. I can live with it but I dont know if its something that could damage the motor or VFD.
I've been doing a bit of research just now and it appears the "carrier frequency" of the VFD might be causing it.
Of course in the HY book I cant find a mention of the "carrier frequency" as such but it does mention "Motor rating frequency" on PN12. Its too late for me to go and check what this is set at just now though
I'm not game to try changing this atm. So again any input from the Gurus would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Peter

BobL
9th Nov 2019, 10:19 PM
Got the tacho working today. End up gluing the magnet to the change gear end of the spindle and made a bracket to hold the sensor.
Whilst the display looks pretty, unfortunately I think its a dud. Readout fluctuates all over the place. reading say 380 rpm then jumping to 1400 rpm and back down to 600 etc.
The laser hand held I have on loan atm is very consistent and I am inclined to believe it over the other one.
When I got this early this year I tested it using my battery drill as the rotating part and I had all sorts of weird displays.
I'm pretty sure I either put up a post on this forum about it or replied to one and someone with more knowledge of the dark art of electronics suggested I try a different power supply. Which I did at the time and that seemed to make it work ok.
I've just been searching for at least 30 minutes to try and find those posts and I cant find them.
Today I have tried 3 different power supplies with the same results with all of them

This is the unit I have
4 Digital LED Tachometer RPM Speed Meter + Proximity Switch Sensor NPN (https://www.banggood.com/4-Digital-LED-Tachometer-RPM-Speed-Meter-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN-p-1045439.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN)


which I bought from Banggood for the eye watering price of around $14aud at the time.
If anyone has any suggestions I'd be most grateful to hear them.
Peter

I have 4 of those tachos on my machinery.

One thing with the ones I have is that although they say they will work on 8 - 24V that is only the case using my stabilised power supply, or the 24V power line from a VFD, On simple DC power adapters they seem to work better around 12V.

What you are describing suggests that either the magnet is too far from the sensors or the PS and sensor line has inadvertent been accidentally swapped over at some time. If you leave the PS on the sensor line for too long it can can damage the sensor especially if you are using higher PS Voltages.

Cordless drills are not a good test bed as they use large currents and output a high magnetic fields which will mess with the sensor. A better rotary testing device is a simple fan.

bollie7
9th Nov 2019, 10:31 PM
Thanks for your advice Bob. As always I appreciate it.'
Definitely wired correctly. However I was just reading a couple of reviews on a similar tacho on Amazon and a couple of people said the polarity of the magnet was important. This was for a different brand tacho and I didnt think it would matter as its basically just a switch, but still it might be worth investigating.
I'll look at that tomorrow.
peter

BobL
9th Nov 2019, 10:37 PM
Thanks for your advice Bob. As always I appreciate it.'
Definitely wired correctly. However I was just reading a couple of reviews on a similar tacho on Amazon and a couple of people said the polarity of the magnet was important. This was for a different brand tacho and I didnt think it would matter as its basically just a switch, but still it might be worth investigating.
I'll look at that tomorrow.
peter

Yes magnet polarity is definitely important.

BaronJ
10th Nov 2019, 02:44 AM
Hi Peter, Guys,

I agree with Bob completely ! Magnet polarity is important. Hall devices can behave quite differently if the magnet polarity is not what they expect. However some of the inductive sensors don't seem to mind either way.

One other thing that sometimes screws things up, is gear teeth ! If the magnet is in between or close to gear teeth the sensor sees the teeth and counts them. That can get very confusing !

The cure there is to move the magnet away from the teeth and adjust the sensor distance.

With respect to motor whine, just up the carrier frequency until you don't hear it !

BobL
10th Nov 2019, 09:47 AM
With respect to motor whine, just up the carrier frequency until you don't hear it !

The Powtran Manual has a some useful info for users that want to change their VFDs carrier freq.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=463442&d=1572234390

simonl
10th Nov 2019, 10:20 AM
Couple of things that I have experienced with these tacho systems, they can be suseptable to electrical noise from the VFD. I ended up putting a 0.1uf mkt capacitor from the sensor input to ground in order to filter out the high frequency noise.it did the trick.

I have also had issues with sensors (magnetic and inductive) not having a high enough response frequency and not working and giving erratic readings after a certain speed.

The motor whine is most definately the carrier frequency. My cheaper VFD does not have any way to change the carrier frequency. Not sure if yours does.

Simon

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

warrick
10th Nov 2019, 05:46 PM
Got the tacho working today. End up gluing the magnet to the change gear end of the spindle and made a bracket to hold the sensor.
Whilst the display looks pretty, unfortunately I think its a dud. Readout fluctuates all over the place. reading say 380 rpm then jumping to 1400 rpm and back down to 600 etc.

Peter



Hi Peter,

I had exactly the same problem with the two tachos I set up on my wood lathes, I had originally made the the brackets to mount the sensors out of ali and the readout was all over the place. I remade the brackets out of plastic and now they are stable

Regards

Rick

bollie7
10th Nov 2019, 06:19 PM
Hi Peter,

I had exactly the same problem with the two tachos I set up on my wood lathes, I had originally made the the brackets to mount the sensors out of ali and the readout was all over the place. I remade the brackets out of plastic and now they are stable

Regards

Rick

Rick. That's interesting. I've mounted mine using an aluminium bracket, inside the change gear cover which is made from cast aluminium.
When I first got mine I tried it out using a battery drill as a source of variable speed. BobL reckons that might not have been such a good idea.
I have two of these so I think I'll put some time in and set one up a bit better for testing.
peter

bollie7
10th Nov 2019, 06:26 PM
Couple of things that I have experienced with these tacho systems, they can be suseptable to electrical noise from the VFD. I ended up putting a 0.1uf mkt capacitor from the sensor input to ground in order to filter out the high frequency noise.it did the trick. I might have to try that. However I'm going to set the other one I have up properly - maybe on my drill press to see how it goes.


I have also had issues with sensors (magnetic and inductive) not having a high enough response frequency and not working and giving erratic readings after a certain speed.
If it's going to get that complicated I might just buy a hand held one like the one I have on loan atm.


The motor whine is most definately the carrier frequency. My cheaper VFD does not have any way to change the carrier frequency. Not sure if yours does.

Simon

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
I haven't found anything in the user book that specifically refers to it, unless the engrish is calling it something else. I can live with the noise as long as the motor is not going to be damaged.

peter

bollie7
10th Nov 2019, 06:32 PM
I turned the magnet over this morning. It definitely has an effect. Not quiet what I was hoping for though.:(
With it turned over the tacho didn't work at all. Just sat there displaying four Zero's.
So I changed it around again.
Its still fluctuating. Maybe its just a heap of crap. Most of the stuff I have bought from Banggood has been ok so I suppose I have to expect a dud occasionally.
Here's a 30 second video I took this morning. Motor running at a set frequency.

https://youtu.be/KUzLDjr0X5o


Peter

warrick
10th Nov 2019, 06:46 PM
Rick. That's interesting. I've mounted mine using an aluminium bracket, inside the change gear cover which is made from cast aluminium.
When I first got mine I tried it out using a battery drill as a source of variable speed. BobL reckons that might not have been such a good idea.
I have two of these so I think I'll put some time in and set one up a bit better for testing.
peter

Peter

I tested all the connections, tried different power supplies and swapped sensors before making the new brackets. I think the sensors need to be isolated from everything

Rick

bollie7
10th Nov 2019, 06:53 PM
Peter

I tested all the connections, tried different power supplies and swapped sensors before making the new brackets. I think the sensors need to be isolated from everything

Rick

Rick
thanks for the info. I'll try it out.
peter

BobL
10th Nov 2019, 07:59 PM
I turned the magnet over this morning. It definitely has an effect. Not quiet what I was hoping for though.:(
With it turned over the tacho didn't work at all. Just sat there displaying four Zero's.
So I changed it around again.
Its still fluctuating. Maybe its just a heap of crap. Most of the stuff I have bought from Banggood has been ok so I suppose I have to expect a dud occasionally.
Here's a 30 second video I took this morning. Motor running at a set frequency.
r

That sounds very much like the problem I had when I accidentally touched the sensor wire with the power line - it means the sensor is cooked.
You can buy spare sensors separately but make sure you purchase the right one - they are not all the same.

bollie7
10th Nov 2019, 09:08 PM
That sounds very much like the problem I had when I accidentally touched the sensor wire with the power line - it means the sensor is cooked.
You can buy spare sensors separately but make sure you purchase the right one - they are not all the same.

I've got another sensor, I'll try it as well.
thanks
Peter

BaronJ
10th Nov 2019, 11:33 PM
Hi Peter,

Can you post a picture of the label on your sensor please.

Also distance can be critical as well. You could build a test rig with a wood disc holding the magnet and run it in a drill press, then adjust the sensor distance to determine how far away it needs to be.

BobL
11th Nov 2019, 08:32 AM
Most sensors have a red LED on the back of them and this lights up when the right distance is achieved.

bollie7
11th Nov 2019, 06:45 PM
Hi Peter,

Can you post a picture of the label on your sensor please.

Also distance can be critical as well. You could build a test rig with a wood disc holding the magnet and run it in a drill press, then adjust the sensor distance to determine how far away it needs to be.

I was going to do that tonight but I've had a big day and then with the predicted bushfire danger tomorrow, I thought it might be a god idea to clean the roof and gutters of my shed off when I got home from work. We live in suburbia and no large tracts of bush nearby (couple of Klms) but embers can travel a fair way so better to be safe than sorry.
I've had a look through my pics but don't have a decent one. So tomorrow arvo hopefully.
peter

BaronJ
12th Nov 2019, 03:12 AM
Hi Peter,

I only found out about the bush fires, from the news on TV today !

Looking after yourself and family are more important than a picture ! I wish we could swap some of our rain for your dry weather for a while.

bollie7
12th Nov 2019, 06:02 PM
Hi Peter,

I only found out about the bush fires, from the news on TV today !

Looking after yourself and family are more important than a picture ! I wish we could swap some of our rain for your dry weather for a while.

Thanks
We are ok but there are plenty of others on this forum who could be (maybe have been) effected.
The biggest problem for us is the smoke. If that's the only problem we have then I'll be happy.
I feel for those who have last their homes and, with some, even loved ones.
Its also pretty devastating thinking about the wild life (and domesticated animals) that have been killed. Then there will probably be some who survive the fire only to die of injuries or starve to death afterwards with nothing to eat.

Edit. Sensor pics added. As the label is wrapped around the sensor Ive had to take four pictures so the info can be read.

383247383248383249383250
peter

simonl
12th Nov 2019, 06:49 PM
Take care Peter.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

warrick
12th Nov 2019, 07:11 PM
Peter,
here is the bracket I made if this helps, The magnet holds itself onto the pulley (hasn't come off yet even at 3000rpm)
I used a spare piece of smoke coloured perspex and heated it with a heat gun and bent it over a piece of timber, drilled my holes first
Rick



383253

bollie7
12th Nov 2019, 09:00 PM
Take care Peter.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Thanks Simon.
We are not in a fire area, thankfully. The only advantage of living in suburbia. There are bush areas a couple of klms away but they are the sort of thing you get in scattered pockets. I do really feel for the poor buggers who have lost their homes etc though.

bollie7
12th Nov 2019, 09:03 PM
Peter,
here is the bracket I made if this helps, The magnet holds itself onto the pulley (hasn't come off yet even at 3000rpm)
I used a spare piece of smoke coloured perspex and heated it with a heat gun and bent it over a piece of timber, drilled my holes first
Rick



383253
Thanks for the pic Rick. I might end up having to something similar with mine however I suspect I might have killed the sensor when I first got it trying it out. The first one I got everything was in chinese on it, so I think as I'm didn't know much about them, I probably wired it up incorrectly.
peter

BaronJ
12th Nov 2019, 09:39 PM
Hi Peter, Guys,

Thank you for the pictures, I've not found any new information about them. I hadn't realised that there was a LED tell tale at the cable end. Simply waving a magnet around the front should cause the led to flash when power is applied. However if the led is faulty, you might be able to see a voltage transition on the output lead using a multimeter. If it doesn't then I agree its dead.

The display should be OK though. I don't know of a simple way to test that, though I can tell you that it is identical to the one on the mill and that takes input from an optical slot sensor.

Wade84
27th May 2021, 12:15 PM
I recently purchased a VFD manufactured by Isacon
7.5kw single phase 60hz (US) input.

I am running a 7.5hp bandsaw with a 1725rpm 3ph
motor.

I did bypass the magnetic start switch on the saw for
testing.

It is now running well, thanks to all who have posted
hints, clues, and info on this thread.

Settings as follows:
Pn01 1 Pn13 0 Pn25 60
Pn02 60 Pn14 70 Pn26 70
Pn03 2 Pn15 30 Pn27 10
Pn04 1 Pn16 0 Pn28 3
Pn05 3 Pn17 30 Pn29 2
Pn06 2 Pn18 0 Pn30 2
Pn07 1 Pn19 1 Pn31 1
Pn08 10 Pn20 10 Pn32 1
Pn09 10 Pn21 20 Pn33 32U29
Pn010 60 Pn22 30 Pn34 0
Pn011 1.5 Pn23 40 Pn35 65535
Pn012 60 Pn24 50

Grahame Collins
27th May 2021, 02:00 PM
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