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Grahame Collins
7th Aug 2018, 10:46 PM
For the longest time, I lusted over a knifemaker bench block specifically something the Sheffield knifemakers called a stiddy.
Unwilling to part a kidney of my firstborn for the genuine article, I have settled on NTB-The Next Best Thing.

This equates to some cheap junked corroded cane tram line, something not hard to obtain in my neck of the woods.

My bandsaw, a basic BS4A was employed instead of the milling machine I don't have. It was an experiment to see if the blade could cut the rail steel and furthermore, cut it square.

Indeed it can do this and the attached snaps show the MK1 version of the project.

I did make two errors, one in that the "bib" is too thick- it needs to be 2mm thick not 3mm. It is meant to fit between the (folding) pocket knife liners to support the knife as pins are tapped in.

Secondly, the bottom cutouts should have a radiui or gusset in the corners, particularly under the bib374553. 374554374555

I thought it might interest any pocket knife makers here on the forum. I shall keep you posted as progress is made.

Grahame

caskwarrior
7th Aug 2018, 11:31 PM
Nice work! Looks as though your bs4a cuts a lit straighter than Mine! Post a photo of the pocket knife you make! I have long looked for a replacement carbon steel pocket knife like the JI Case one I had years ago but everything seems stainless these days.

Zsteve
8th Aug 2018, 09:55 PM
Looks good Grahame,

I have recently been looking to make a stiddy. How hard was the rail? I do have some stashed away, but was looking for the right sized lump of steel.

Does a file bite ok on the flat you have cut? You dont need the whole tongue/bib thinned down to 2mm, just 15-20mm on the end. May be able to use the Bsaw in vertical mode to notch it a bit then clean it up with files etc.

Cheers
Steve

Grahame Collins
9th Aug 2018, 01:00 AM
Looks good Grahame,

I have recently been looking to make a stiddy. How hard was the rail? I do have some stashed away, but was looking for the right sized lump of steel.
Does a file bite ok on the flat you have cut? You dont need the whole tongue/bib thinned down to 2mm, just 15-20mm on the end. May be able to use the Bsaw in vertical mode to notch it a bit then clean it up with files etc.

Cheers
Steve

Thanks Zsteve,

Apart from the top where it was work hardened, it was not too hard at all. The rail was used as reo bar hence the corroded features.


You might get a different hardness result from, say, a piece of HD coal rail.

This stuff was buried in the now demolished shed at my mate's place. He demolished a shed and had the crap concrete excavated with a big machine. It was there at least 50 years by my estimation of when the house was built.
My rail is about 75mm high, 75 across the base flange and maybe 35 across the rail surface.The cut surface files with a bit of effort.

Even though the rail surface was worn unevenly it will be ok to bang on.It is just basically for mushrooming pins for the folder frames.
I have a round hardened bench block for the harder stuff.

The bandsaw blade is bi metal and 10/18 pitch.

Cheers
Grahame

simonl
9th Aug 2018, 10:32 PM
Thats nice work Graham. I like the pitting on the flange, it adds interest.

I really appreciate the skill in knife making. Its something i wang to get into at some point.

Thanks for posting.

Simon

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Briangoldcoast
26th Aug 2018, 06:23 PM
Hi Grahame,
thanks for posting details of your stiddy.
Could I impose on you to share some pics of your pocket knives?
i have made a few pocket knives using commercial frames and hand made blades I forged myself but that falls well short of full production.
I have collected a small box of wood offcuts over the years, all with interesting grains or colours and my aim over the next few years is to put aside more of the "must do" stuff and replace it with the "want to do" stuff.

jack620
3rd Sep 2018, 08:52 AM
I'd love to see more of your knife making work Grahame. I've only just started gaining an interest in knife making. I've been searching for a metalworking hobby that will produce items I can give to family and friends. After a bit of YouTube bingeing I'm impressed with some of the exotic materials available too. I'd love to make a knife with a Timascus blade. It's Damascus made from two different alloys of titanium. Check out the price though. :oo: Probably not the stuff to use on my first attempt!

https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/shop/product/black-timascus-billets

Grahame Collins
3rd Sep 2018, 01:37 PM
Hi Chris,

Like many blokes, I started off with a sharpened power hacksaw blade and graduated to car and truck springs.
All of the knives were for friends and family. They are now scattered all over the country. When I made them, I never did take pictures as I made them. They were made as, using knives, not bling knives.

There two things I am truly RS at, one is taking snaps of, are drill bits and the other is knives. I am studying the how to on knife pitcher taking, at the moment, so I can send some to a fellow blade enthusiasts, so please bear with me.

At the moment I am assembling a kit of equipment and tools to enable work on old damaged broken pocket knives. They are the old ones with wooden and bone handles and brass and nickel bolsters. They are the traditional type and that style seems to be slipping into obscurity so I am doing my bit to help.

Better than saving some mongrel scruffy tailed possums which are in excess numbers around our place, anyway.

There is always some cost-effective materials in the way of scrap and recyclable around for knife making. It has the makings of a great thread, I got heaps of info tucked away in files somewhere I need to dig out. There are a handful of good starter books around.

Two that I purchased and read the print off them!were
Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman Paperback – October 1, 1985
by Tim McCreight and

Step-by-Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It! Paperback – June 2000
by David Boye

What do you reckon, we will get a thread going, something like knife making on a budget.

We don't need no stinking Timascus. Damnit! we will make out own, Ozmascus ,we will call it:devilred::devilred:

Grahame

simonl
3rd Sep 2018, 02:02 PM
Im likeing this!

Simon

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

jack620
3rd Sep 2018, 06:57 PM
Thanks Grahame. I'm keen to see anything you've got. I don't have a proper knifemaker's belt sander. I don't really have room for one either. I do have a Multitool linisher which doesn't lend itself to mounting a knife grinding jig. I'm exploring the idea of using my lathe to mill the profile on the blades which I could then clean up by hand. It would limit me to straight blades like the Wharncliffe style https://www.bladehq.com/item--Sam-Eddleman-Wharncliffe-Neck-Knife--14225

Here's my thinking:
1. Remove the topslide.
2. Mount a custom-made jig on the slotted cross-slide which would hold the knife blank at slight angle to horizontal
3. Use a ball-end mill to cut the bevel on each side of the blade.
4. Finish the blade by hand.

It would need to be rigid to prevent chatter marks which would make cleaning up the blade by hand a chore. I see lots of knives being made on YouTube with CNC mills. However my machine isn't CNC and it isn't a mill! Keen to hear any feedback on this idea.

P.S. We have a surplus of possums too. They've decimated our gum trees by eating all the new growth off the tree tops.

Grahame Collins
3rd Sep 2018, 11:50 PM
I do have a Multitool linisher which doesn't lend itself to mounting a knife grinding jig.
Hi Chris ,
Never say never.
Nothing is impossible.

Grahame

375181

Grahame Collins
3rd Sep 2018, 11:57 PM
Chris,
I found out after years of phaffing around that the name of the game is to buy the best belts you can get.

Also make sure the Multi Tool is mated to a decent 1 HP or better motor.

The other thing is to ensure the M Tool has a decent adjuster mechanism. The ones that have not got a sensitive mechanism can be a pain in the bum.

catcha tommorow.

Grahame

jack620
4th Sep 2018, 07:03 AM
Which belts are you using Grahame? I use the blue Zirconia ones from H&F.

Grahame Collins
5th Sep 2018, 10:01 AM
Chris,
I believe that the current belts are 3M. They are by far the best yet as they don't stretch as much as the cheapies.
I have yet to try some other brands that the Sandpaper man keeps.
The other knife supply guys are too dear for me in their prices.

Grahame

Grahame Collins
11th Nov 2018, 06:33 PM
Hi Guys,
I have finally got around to starting some new knife projects.

One is a copy of what the knife enthusiasts refer to as George Wostenholm IXL single blade gunstock penknife.

Only a Philistine would attack a knife of that vintage worn or not. I quite like the shape so a new one is the way to I want to go.

The only way I'll ever get a new one is to make it as that model is no longer made.

I have made a template and glued it to the brass liner sheet strip material and purchased some Schrade pocket knife blades, one of which I shall cut down. I have to shape the blade,bevel it and turn down a 3mm brass pin to 2.7mm. Standard 1.6mm brass will serve for the handle pins and back spring pins.
376813

The second project is to refurbish the sides on a Richards Sheffield (with the lamp post symbol ) single blade pocket knife.
This particular knife has stamped tin sides wrapped in cellulose. The cellulose covers have long since degraded.

I am not too fussed about the original tin covers as the bolsters are are part of tin cover. ERK! I shall try for a slab side in deer antler and pin both bolsters and antler sides to the liners.The Richards doesn't look too sexy without the covers, but it does serve to give you an idea of how the sides are mounted with identations for clips at either end.

376814

I shall keep you posted as the projects progress.

Grahame

Com_VC
11th Nov 2018, 08:02 PM
Hi Grahame, what have you done to that Multitool linisher? I'm guessing that is a home made attachment?

Grahame Collins
11th Nov 2018, 09:32 PM
Com_VC
Its half and half.The roller section and platen I purchased from our very own Ueee, years ago .

It turns the unit into a 1200mm belt size and has the plate at the front to support bevel grinding.

The telescoping square section I made myself from heavy wall tube I had.

The telescoping tube has to be worked to remove the internal welded seam flashing from the internal surface. Its a real pain in the bum and fiddly work.

Particularly so when my old machine had a tracking problem at that time. My understanding is that Ueee no longer makes these parts for the Multitool upgrades.These days he makes and sells his own line of belt grinder to the knifemaking fraternity.

Grahame




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KBs PensNmore
11th Nov 2018, 09:40 PM
Graham, How did you go about removing the internal welded seam flashing from the internal surface?
In the past I've cut a groove with the angle grinder, to get around this. I believe you can buy it already finished from Towbar places.
Kryn

Grahame Collins
11th Nov 2018, 10:04 PM
Graham, How did you go about removing the internal welded seam flashing from the internal surface?

The bloody hard way, old mate!

I reground an old bastard file to about 80 degrees and welded a lengthening piece on it. If I was smart enough I should have thought of a precision cut and shut, taking the seam out with a grinder cut. No need to fully penetrate the wall thickness.

There is not a high strength requirement. The heavy wall will take a bead sufficient to hold it all together.

Without going out to the shed I reckon the outer tube to be about 35mm ID.Do the towbar places have that?

My towbar tube is around 50mm from memory and that's far too large to suit the belt grinder set up and would throw all the measurements out.

Cheers
Grahame

Grahame Collins
11th Nov 2018, 11:35 PM
Here are some old pics from Ueee's site, long since taken down.

From both you should get an idea how the extension pieces fit to the original Multi tool.

376819


376818