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simonl
3rd May 2018, 08:31 PM
Hi all,

Some may be aware that I have been building a log splitter over the last year or two. I haven't put any pics of it on here yet as I wanted it to evolve into something that remotely looked like a log splitter before showing. I like showing what I have DONE, not what I'm doing or what I'm GUNNA do.

Anyway, It's starting to look like a log splitter now and figured it may be of some interest to people so here I go.

My initial design inspiration came from a video on youtube of a homemade log splitter. Here it is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu3ksd3Rrx0

Now, other than that basic design I really had nothing to work with so I started looking for stuff in the usual locations such as ebay and gumtree. I was initially after a 5" ram with around the 500 - 600mm stoke for pretty cheap. These were not easily to come by. I ended up chancing on a 6" ram with about 830mm stoke for $250. It looked like it had been reconditioned at some stage and never used. Needless to say it was way too big in both bore and stroke although I successfully reduced it's stroke to 500mm by turning down the all the components. I also changed it's flange mounting to a clevis mount.


Of course it occurred to me afterwards that if I wanted a log splitter that was not painfully slow, I would need large hydraulic pump to feed it. A large hydraulic pump would also need HP to drive it. So one thing lead to another and the next thing you know I'm complicating the crap out of this thing, simply because I bought an oversized ram because it was cheap!

A long story short, I chanced apon a corolla motor for cheap, about $280 from the wrecker. It had been years since I tinkered with a car engine and so sounded like a fun idea. It come out of a 1983 corolla and so still had a carburettor which kept things simple. I can also go to the local Supacheap and buy all the parts for it, it's electric start and has a 12V charging system which means I can also run auxiliary items from it such as lighting etc.

The corolla motor produces about 78 HP at 5800 rpm, or just over half that at 3000 rpm which is a good match for the pump I bought.

MY loose plan was to fit everything onto the footprint of a 5x3 trailer. So I started by welding up the outer frame and working out the location of the radiator (from a 45 series landcruiser. donated from my neighbour), the engine, the hydraulic reservoir and the work table.


Pictures to follow....

simonl
3rd May 2018, 08:38 PM
Hi all,

Some may be aware that I have been building a log splitter over the last year or two. I haven't put any pics of it on here yet as I wanted it to evolve into something that remotely looked like a log splitter before showing. I like showing what I have DONE, not what I'm doing or what I'm GUNNA do.

Anyway, It's starting to look like a log splitter now and figured it may be of some interest to people so here I go.

My initial design inspiration came from a video on youtube of a homemade log splitter. Here it is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu3ksd3Rrx0

Now, other than that basic design I really had nothing to work with so I started looking for stuff in the usual locations such as ebay and gumtree. I was initially after a 5" ram with around the 500 - 600mm stoke for pretty cheap. These were not easily to come by. I ended up chancing on a 6" ram with about 830mm stoke for $250. It looked like it had been reconditioned at some stage and never used. Needless to say it was way too big in both bore and stroke although I successfully reduced it's stroke to 500mm by turning down the all the components. I also changed it's flange mounting to a clevis mount.


Of course it occurred to me afterwards that if I wanted a log splitter that was not painfully slow, I would need large hydraulic pump to feed it. A large hydraulic pump would also need HP to drive it. So one thing lead to another and the next thing you know I'm complicating the crap out of this thing, simply because I bought an oversized ram because it was cheap!

A long story short, I chanced apon a corolla motor for cheap, about $280 from the wrecker. It had been years since I tinkered with a car engine and so sounded like a fun idea. It come out of a 1983 corolla and so still had a carburettor which kept things simple. I can also go to the local Supacheap and buy all the parts for it, it's electric start and has a 12V charging system which means I can also run auxiliary items from it such as lighting etc.

The corolla motor produces about 78 HP at 5800 rpm, or just over half that at 3000 rpm which is a good match for the pump I bought.

MY loose plan was to fit everything onto the footprint of a 5x3 trailer. So I started by welding up the outer frame and working out the location of the radiator (from a 45 series landcruiser. donated from my neighbour), the engine, the hydraulic reservoir and the work table.


Pictures to follow....Early stages builing the frame including angle iron to hold the radiator.

I decided to directly mount the pump to the engine. This meant machining an adapter plate that holds the starter motor and holds other mounting hardwar for the pump. Being directly mounted, it meant i had to be pretty good with the pump alignment. All the mounting hardware was finished on the SG.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/1a34689adcd8eff4b49056500c946cfc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/bc86ed947851e7e2ac2818bde796fed0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/ab0935af57e40ce2f21f81251e30d784.jpg

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simonl
3rd May 2018, 08:45 PM
The pump has a parallel shaft with a keyway. I made the mating female part that bolts directly to the crankshaft bolt pattern. You can see it has teeth. It used to be a toothed pulley that i turned down to suite.

I kept some of the teeth as these run past an induction pickup that is the speed sensor for the engine speed governor.

In the last photo you can see the hydraulic resevoir.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/fd49febab1dee2bf94fb9353f5c9bee5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/d059883a0b78be0b2df394c5f451cf88.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/3e173d364b053812b73322ef42fedaa2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/528dbbaf078080cb76797b2b14e0df6e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/ff420ba2c7db8ade5d4570238ccfcb22.jpg

In order to ensure concentricity of the pump connection, I removed the spigot bearing and used that seat as a register for the mating part I made.
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simonl
3rd May 2018, 09:04 PM
I then extended the frame upwards at the rear to create a work platform so that all splitting would be done at waist height.

The splitter beam that houses the ram and all the blade were fabricated separately and slide into place once all the welding was finished. Originally this beam was to be lowered into place and welded, never to be removed but last week i changed my mind.

It is now held in place with 10 M12 bolts and can be removed with an engine crane to aid in servicing of the ram etc.

When i finally lowered it into place it was a relief to see everything fit and line up!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/3bf7fa702d1a83641640703a8358bd57.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/d207a69c3b84ecdb63d0c1a47608cbcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/cbadafd5192aef8286cf7db6a6ca50a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/b969a4f47fd7fa1d2a3192b905e7c6f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/4601bfe2a850b706f7fedd5b4c3f389d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/74a349fd2b527ad07ec4fbf9bc4b2006.jpg

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shedhappens
3rd May 2018, 10:17 PM
gr8 stuff m8 :2tsup:

jhovel
3rd May 2018, 10:28 PM
Very nicely done Simon!
May I recommend that you weld some plates on the splitter to form a wider wedge near the top, rather than having just the thickness of the sharp blade.
Our splitter occasionally gets stuck in a split and is a bugger to get the log off again.
Letting the hydraulics push a split further apart should prevent the stuck log problem.

Cheers, Joe

simonl
3rd May 2018, 10:51 PM
Thanks Shed thanks Joe.

Yes the blade is not quite finished. I have 2 holes in the blade that will facilitate the fitting of a 3 bladed wedge. Removal of this blade will allow for the occasional touch up on the grinder as well.

I forgot to mention, in the last pic you can see 3 holes. This allows for a pin to be located which effectively reduces the length of the return stroke. For example, the splitter will split 550mm long logs but if you are only splitting logs that are 400mm or so (my wood heater takes a max log length of 460mm) then having the blade auto return to the top is a PITA. Sliding in the pin in the appropriate hole will reduce the return stroke.

Simon

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simonl
3rd May 2018, 10:58 PM
The engine cowl is also easily removed.

PS i couldnt resist the inclusion of a toyota badge on the front!

PS ignor the engine electrics. It will all be redone soon.

Today i made a start on the log lifting frame.

The hydraulic ram for this came from a Bobcat. Its in excellent condition and i got it for $18!

What a bargain.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/278a3b5b074a3b9eaf54583ff16ee17f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/b6516ed9e3f15b81cd951d08b8a54898.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/9efbc74d6e75b37fe0ac8f5d895f10e8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/085736c7f7911304d3309ba04467453e.jpg

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snapatap
4th May 2018, 07:56 PM
Great job Simon. I might steal a few ideas for the log splitter I have to build. One bit of constructive criticism: Standard industry practice is to have a flexible coupling between the pump and motor (eg. a Lovejoy or similar coupling). This arrangement has some give to allow for the clearance in the engine bearings and allows for greater missalignment. Your setup will work ok for the low hours you will use it, but something to keep in mind for future projects.

simonl
5th May 2018, 09:59 AM
Thanks Snap.

There were a couple of reasons for the direct coupling without the use of a Lovejoy style coupling. Firstly it was to save space, a coupling would add about another 200mm in length. Also, I was under the impression (rightly or perhaps wrongly) that if I took the time to align the mating hardware and ensure that the mating surfaces were flat and aligned and the rotating part on the crank was concentric, that such a coupling would not be needed. There is not a lovejoy coupling between the engine and the auto transmission normally.

My pressure washer has a pump mounted directly to a 13HP Honda motor, so I figured why not?

You maybe correct though. So who knows, the design may bite me on the , I may find that the pump wears prematurely because of my design flaws. Not sure, time will tell I suppose. One thing is for sure, it would require a fair bit of cutting, welding and retro-fitting in order to make the room for such a coupling now as there is not a huge amount of extra room in the setup.

Cheers,

Simon

Oldbikerider
10th May 2018, 05:11 PM
Simon,

Great job, thanks for putting up the pictures.

What size and gauge RHS did you use for the bottom frame? It looks like you've got an axle rigidly attached to the frame, with no springs. Did you beef up the RHS where the axle attaches?

I'm asking because I'm building something not to different at the moment, a trailer mounted sawmill, and am choosing steel dimensions at the moment. I'll be posting some progress photos soon.

Graham.

simonl
12th May 2018, 08:26 AM
Hi Graham,

Sorry about the late reply, I've been away on a course for last 5 days with work.

For all the frame I used 100x50x3mm RHS. Given the construction and design of the supporting frame, it's massive overkill. I have a set of trailer plans that I plan on building. They are engineered plans I bought and are for a 6x4 trailer up to a 1600Kg ATM and it uses 100x50x3mm so I know my (roughly) 650 700Kg log splitter will be fine on a frame that is roughly a 5x3 size trailer.

No special re-enforcing of the frame at the axles, although initially I had the axels directly under the front vertical frame of the splitter which would have been nice as it directly transfers the load onto the axle. However, once I checked the weights, I was not entirely happy with the ball weight. I was aiming for about 60 - 65Kg ball weight, nice and heavy to ensure the thing never tipped, even if a keen person lifted a 150Kg log onto the back to split.

So, I had to move the axle rearward by 75mm (a massive PITA). This puts the axle not directly under the load transfer of the vertical part of the frame but like I said, it's so over engineered that it is of little consequence. The axles themselves are re-enforced which does help to direct the load to the axle in part anyway.

You are correct, there are no springs. Adding springs would have made the trailer sit higher, complicating the frame required in order to keep the splitting deck at waist height. I have no real need to tow it anywhere but I can if I have to. If I were to hire a splitter from a local hire place, it would not have springs either, I have looked at quite a few.

I'll send a couple of pics from my phone in the next post. Can't wait to see your sawmill!

Simon

simonl
12th May 2018, 08:32 AM
Heres a pic of the frame as best i can.

The second pic shows the location of the axle. Clearly rearward and not quite directly under the vertical frame elements.

You can see the top frame terminates into the bottom frame at a roughly 45 degree angle. This was to reduce stress on the drawbar end of the frame.


Simonhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/26fc029e3d2d2f9a89bfc64c8eab8385.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/b9b5246ad0d620a06bf760f8d9bf0a70.jpg

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simonl
12th May 2018, 08:53 AM
I also added strengthening plates where the frame was welded together.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/a9177d75efa18755cddbd2ecae262faf.jpg

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Oldbikerider
12th May 2018, 12:18 PM
Thanks for your detailed reply and the pics Simon. They are very useful for me at this stage of the design. I was settling on either 100 x 50 x 3 or 150 x 50 x 3 RHS for the sawmill main frame. It doesn't have a top and bottom frame like your log splitter, so I'm erring on the 150.

Nice welds! Do you want to come and do mine?

Graham.

simonl
12th May 2018, 12:44 PM
A little more progress today.

Cut the top sheet from 4mm steel and had it folded. Still have to drill holes, trim the back, and screw it down.


Ih. While im at it. Success with reversing the direction of the 12v motor for the log lifter!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/95030aac4a85f772a04a7f4a56b12473.jpg

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simonl
12th May 2018, 12:49 PM
Thanks Graham. Your comments on my welds are a little too kind. 90% of my welding is arc welding because its what i learnt on. With welding i find i have good and bad days. If you were to look closely you can pick the bad days. I made sure that any welds done on the high stressed parts of the splitter were done on my good days! [emoji52] in any case i also sometimes grind back a weld and start again if im not happy.

Cheers

Simon

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simonl
12th May 2018, 03:42 PM
Had some extra time so ducked out and finished the top plate. Looks ok. Im calling that part done other than 2 coats of paint.

Simonhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/7b23e23c529026635d138a5e0579a516.jpg

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simonl
19th May 2018, 02:37 PM
Hi all.

Chipping away at this splitter, i did some more work on the lig lifter and also made up the 3/4" hydraulic hose from the pump to the spool valve.

The lifter is almost done. I just need to weld some sheet on top of the frame. I was going to leave it just as a frame (as i have seen on many other splitters) but i think a smooth and continuous flat surface will make dealing with logs much easier.

I must be getting better at managing heat buildup and deformation of welded parts as the pin for the ram slid in and out just as easy after i finished fully welding it. In the past i would have all sorts of trouble welding up neat fitting parts or shafts.

Simonhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/63b6e3a9c7651a72388eb87d42227222.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/3a2e93c2c29ca5fcf836198bc9517ec4.jpg

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simonl
19th May 2018, 03:01 PM
As mentioned above, i also made up my 3rd and final high pressure hydraulic hose.

Unlike the other 2 shorter lengths of hose, i opted to buy the bare hose and 2 field fittable fittings. The 2 other hoses i bought in the US at a quite reasonable price, even after postage. They are top quality made in US hoses and fittings and the 2 x 3/4" complete hoses (finished with JIC 12 fittings) came in at about $150 delivered.

However, once your hose length gets up over 2 metres or so, the postage starts to creep up, making locally sourced hose and a couple of field fittings look comparable. The other advantage of this is that if you are unsure exactly where to route the hose or you are unsure about bend radii, then a field fittable hose fitting allows you to route the hose, have a play and then decide on the length required. This is what i did.

Also, while the price per fitting for these is very high compared to the crimp fittings, the finished hose as a one off was still pretty reasonable. A 2.5m length of 3/4" hose finished with JIC 12 fittings cost me $115 delivered. No way my local hydraulic supply place could do that price.

These fittings were very easy to fit. I watched some youtube vids to get an idea. They were all the same in fitting. Single biggest advice is make sure you use eithef a lubricant or anti sieze when screwing the second part on. The first fitting i used some grease. I nearly needed a 2 ft pipe attached to the wrench in order to screw the fitting all the way in! I redid it with some antisieze and it went on much better. The last 5mm of thread is still tough going though. Its on pretty tight once its done but with a working pressure of up to 3100 psi i guess it needs to be.

Some pics of the process. All up its a 2 minute job. Certainly worth considering for a one off job.

Cheers.

Simonhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/18d229ce815266f909f03f0498cf6c5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/4780e44abb163b0310a7e557ebbafe60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/8f73e81fd64a009a42b408a9d00a183e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/db18d2bad43168138321dd929aa96704.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/157297d2c69517129a3a62ed42b0cf51.jpg

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KBs PensNmore
20th Jul 2018, 02:01 PM
Now this what I call a splitter, V8 Cat powered!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3ERkzvsLBM

simonl
21st Jul 2018, 08:52 AM
I love it.

It had me when i saw the twin exhaust stacks!

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.RC.
21st Jul 2018, 10:04 AM
The thing about US and Euro machines is they are made for their soft timbers.

snapatap
21st Jul 2018, 11:03 AM
Fuel must be really cheap over there. With the amount of fuel being burnt in that video to spit some softwood, I would just use a diesel heater.

simonl
2nd Aug 2018, 02:44 PM
Finished the engine control console today. Been working on it here and there for a while. I made it out of a piece of RHS, same stuff that the beam is made from and welded up the ends with some flat. Yea I know, it's a bit over the top but it was laying around and figured it would be pretty robust, which is kinda the look I'm going for. I made a protective louver out of stainless to (hopefully) keep the rain out and protect from the occasional log collision with the switches/gauges. Water should not be too much of an issue as most of the switches and gauges are IP rated.

In order to make wiring up easier, I cut a generous section out of the rear. I will still need to made a stainless cover plate for that. The wires terminate to a 16 way weatherproof connector which will be tucked up inside the RHS when connected.

Simon
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180802/333da4e9fca4f31e8cb5e1cfe70fff59.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180802/e2165287cc9160954ec2c391779a28a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180802/fb701c9b50413c5f83d074c0f797386f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180802/83fc313e342403130fbafa492ab62e80.jpg

Wimmera Jack
2nd Aug 2018, 04:57 PM
Simon. In regard to the log lifter, what is the 12v motor you are using from and what are you driving to operate the ram. Small hydraulic pump or what?
I have a Dalmore splitter, (Great machine) but I would like to attach a lifter.

Thanks,

John.

simonl
2nd Aug 2018, 06:54 PM
Hi John,

The hydraulic system I'm using for the log lifter is a separate system from the splitter, although you probably already knew that bit. The pump was originally a pump and 12V motor in a complete package and used for small tip trucks or tailgate lifter etc. It was given to me a few years back and I used it for some time as a hydraulic press until I burnt the motor out. I swaped it out for a hand pump which gives a bit more feel and less likely to destroy things.

The pump is quite small in capacity, maybe 10LPM but can still achieve 2000 psi easily when driven which is way more than needed to lift a heavy log. It also has an internal pressure relief valve, I will set this to the minimum pressure required to do the job, maybe 500 psi or so.

I recently bought a S/H 12VDC motor, (approx 1 HP) on ebay for $20 and it will now drive the pump. It was not without it's own issues as it ran in the opposite direction so I had to change some internal wiring to get it to run the opposite way.

The ram was also S/H and was from a Bobcat.

Hope this helps.

Simon

Oldbikerider
3rd Aug 2018, 11:35 AM
Simon,

That's a brilliant solution for the control console! Nice and rugged.

I'm getting close to doing the electrical controls on my sawmill build, and have been pondering what kind of enclosure to use, this may just be the answer.

Thanks for posting the pictures.

Graham.

simonl
3rd Aug 2018, 12:14 PM
Thanks Graham.

The only thing to be aware of is the internal seam inside rhs. If you look carefully at the rear photo you cab see the seam. It would have been preferable for that seam to face the rear so that it does not affect the mounting of any switches or knobs, gauges etc. Luckily my placement of these missed that internal seam.

Other than that im pretty happy with it.

About to wire up the engine side now.

Simon

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Wimmera Jack
3rd Aug 2018, 01:21 PM
Simon, thanks for the info on the 12v motor.

John

simonl
3rd Aug 2018, 03:57 PM
No problems John. A cheap alternative for a 12v motor would be a starter motor. That was going to be my backup plan. You would need to modify it a bit though. Also they are not a continous rated motor but for lifting a log every few minutes it would probably be fine.

Alternatively 12v double acting hydraulkc pumps can bd found new on ebay for about $270. They would do the job nicely.

Edit: I just found this one S/H on ebay for $169. That is a bargain and I doubt you could do it cheaper than that!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Volt-Hydraulic-Powerpack-only-complete-with-12-Volt-solenoid/302827271214?hash=item4681e9742e:g:OsQAAOSwam1aoeXT
Simon

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Wimmera Jack
3rd Aug 2018, 04:32 PM
Thanks again Simon

John

shedhappens
3rd Aug 2018, 07:02 PM
Finished the engine control console today.Water should not be too much of an issue as most of the switches and gauges are IP rated.
Simon


Very nice control panel Simon, have you got your pilots licence yet :D
I have used those switches and to make them weather proof you will need to put these on them https://www.jaycar.com.au/waterproof-hoods-for-toggle-switches-standard/p/ST0592 coz they will fill with water if you don't.

cheers, shed

simonl
3rd Aug 2018, 10:52 PM
Yea. You're right shed. I have them but the wall thickness of my rhs box is too thick so theres not enough thread for both the hex nut and that boot.

Unless, the boot that screws on can replace the hex nut?

Simon

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Wimmera Jack
3rd Aug 2018, 11:01 PM
Just make up a cover to throw over it.

John

simonl
3rd Aug 2018, 11:28 PM
Yea. I might sew up a canvas cover for it or better still a cover for the whole thing.

Simon

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rcaffin
4th Aug 2018, 09:02 PM
Nice big machine, but the operating lever is in a terrible place. Move it around the back, way out of the line of fire.

I have had logs 'pop out' from the splitter when one end was cut at an angle. (I was not doing the chainsawing.) Some red gums especially are very tough and they can go flying sideways, FAST. Dangerous stuff.

Cheers
Roger

simonl
4th Aug 2018, 09:56 PM
Yes i dont like the position of the lever. Im actually going to make a new lever with a bend that angles up which makes it clear the longest log it can split.

Not sure what you mean by outting the lever at the back?

Simon

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rcaffin
4th Aug 2018, 10:54 PM
'Putting the lever at the back' means putting it somewhere that will NOT have you ever in the line of fire of a flying billet of timber. That probably means you should be standing behind the front face of the column - ie around the back.
Yes, I know that is probably a bit inconvenient, but going to hospital with broken bones (or worse) is even less convenient. There are huge forces involved.

Cheers
Roger

simonl
4th Aug 2018, 11:08 PM
Understand your dafety concerns but im yet to see a log splitted like what you describe.

Sjmon

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rcaffin
4th Aug 2018, 11:18 PM
im yet to see a log splitted like what you describe.

I have been splitting some twisted-grain red gum the last few days. I have had to stand well out of the way.
Thing is, you don't want to be in the line of fire the first time you do see it!

Cheers
Roger

shedhappens
5th Aug 2018, 03:57 PM
I found that when I covered machinery with tarps and builders plastic that yes it keeps the rain out and protects plastic parts from the sun but the rust was worse than the things not covered, the covers seem to cause humidity underneath them.
A lean to off the side of your fence or shed would likely offer more protection.

And by the sounds of it maybe you also need a blasting mat :D

cheers, shed

simonl
5th Aug 2018, 04:03 PM
Yea a lean to off the side of my shed is long overdue.

Simon

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rcaffin
5th Aug 2018, 07:01 PM
covered machinery with tarps and builders plastic
Then you get condensation from moisture in the soil on cold nights.

Cheers
Roger

simonl
8th Aug 2018, 02:47 PM
Well it's 2 steps forward and one step back with this project.

I finally hard wired the gauge console to the splitter and got it to the point I was ready to turn it over and see how things go. I looked at the carby, the carby that I meticulously took apart, cleaned, and put a new seal kit through only to find it had seized up again due to non-use and the elements. :((

Yes, it was turning back to nature. I took it off an gave it another clean, got eveything good... again.

I then turned on the ignition. I should have been greeted with the sound of the electric fuel pump but I heard crickets. Checked for power and earth and all good but still nothing. I took it off and blew air through it and taped it with ever increasing blows with a soft mallet.... still nothing. It's Dead!

So I relent and order another cheapie fuel pump on eBay.

I think, what the hell, I'll at least turn the motor over. So I crank it over and all good until I see hydraulic oil leaking profusely from the inlet of the spool valve. Figured I must not have it up tight enough but closer inspection shows it has a hairline crack throught the thread! :((

It's a solid cast iron body so it's not like I can repair it. Don't you hate it when stuff gets old and worn out even when it's not been used?!

I'm not likely to get any sympathy from the seller when it comes to a warranty claim (A supplier in the US) since it's been so long since I bought it. This thing has just been one thing after another. Some people have asked me why I didn't just buy a splitter. Quite frankly, I can't give them an intelligent answer!

Simon

shedhappens
8th Aug 2018, 04:50 PM
Figured I must not have it up tight enough but closer inspection shows it has a hairline crack throught the thread! :((
It's a solid cast iron body so it's not like I can repair it. Don't you hate it when stuff gets old and worn out even when it's not been used?!
Simon

It is only on the inlet, clean it and screw the fitting back in just nipped up with this on it https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_290.html

LoctiteŽ 290 Wicking Grade Threadlocker Stop Leakages & Saves $10,000 in Lost Production - Henkel (http://www.loctite.com.au/loctite-290-wicking-grade-threadlocker-stop-leakages-saves-10-6190.htm)

cheers, shed

ps. it is cheap on ebay

pps. when i say "on it" i mean put it on the fitting and screw it in, don't put it in the thread in the valve body or it may push the loctite through and onto the spool.
If you can sit the valve with the fitting pointing upwards then if needed you could then apply a bit more 290 around the installed thread and leave it sit for a day.

simonl
8th Aug 2018, 09:08 PM
Im open to ideas Shed but what you mean by "only on the inlet?" Its the inlet of the spool valve not of the pump. So it sees the full pressure of the system, anywhere up to 3000 psi.

You think some hydraulic sealant may work?

Ill give it a try. If i had some iron powder electrodes then id have a go at grinding the crack back and welding. By the time i buy a pack of those electrodes it would nearly be the same as buying a new part.

Simon

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shedhappens
8th Aug 2018, 09:24 PM
If you clean it properly, say brake cleaner then maybe acetone and blow it out I would be surprised if it didn't work, there is not much surface area in a hairline crack for the pressure to act on.
Not hydraulic sealant as it won't "wick in".

or....if you have a machined surface around the port you could make a fitting with a flange with an
o ring groove machined into the flange, or just use an annealed copper washer.

I would try the loctite tho

cheers, shed

simonl
9th Aug 2018, 09:50 PM
Thanks Shed. I'm going to give that a go.

In leu of the above issues, today I received another fuel pump in the mail. This paved the way to some further testing. So today I managed to split my first log! While the hydraulic oil leak is still present, it still did not prevent me from having a play.

Initial tests were quite disappointing, given that I am yet to complete the engine speed governor, all I could do was set the engine speed to a high idle using the carby idle set screw to about 2000 rpm. This is OK but when the motor is put under load it just would die as there is no way to increase the throttle to react to the increased engine load. I was hoping that the inertia of the engine would "absorb" the intial load and the engine would just follow through with the split but no this did not happen. I was thinking I would need to add a big flywheel which was a concern of mine all along but who can tell with these things until you try.

I then bought some 98 octane fuel and advanced the timming a little more and man did it make a huge difference! Even with no engine speed governor, every log I presented, it would just smash through with only a modest drop in engine speed. These were logs I have had laying around for 2 years. I had tried to split them by hand with a wood splitter but it just bounced off. I soon had a pile of split wood laying all around me.

I had to curb my enthusiam as the hydraulic oil leak soon became an issue. I still need to finish the engine speed governor as the engine would still stall if I let the ram fully extend to the end. So the engine did not have enough power under these conditions to generate the 2200psi to reach the preset pressure relief valve.

Interestingly, with a 6 inch ram the pressures required to split even my biggest logs was still very modest at around 1200 psi. Nowhere near the 3000 psi the system is capable of.

So while I still have a bit to do, I'm so happy that at least I have not been working on a white elephant. When you work on a project for 2 years with no guarentee it will work, it can sometimes weigh on your mind.

I also took the time to look in the hydraulic resevoir while operating at 3000 rpm (the hydraulic pump is doing about 120 litres/min @ 3000rpm) and the fluid was calm with no sign of any bubbles or turbulence. Extremely happy with that. I still need to add another 15 litres to achieve full capacity.

In summing up, I still need to:

* finish the engine speed governor
* finish the log lifter (nearly finished this)
* repair or replace the spool valve (:(()
* Add some wings to the splitter blade to increase splitting efficiency
* paint some odd bits and pieces.
* Add a tow ball, lights and mudguards

Oh, I notice the hydraulic oil temp guage does not work. Some testing shows that the teflon tape on the sender has created an insulation between the sender ground and the body of the it screws into.

I may need a new battery too.

Anyway, heres a quick video of the first test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Lnog_aCNn0

Cheers,

Simon

Acco
9th Aug 2018, 11:43 PM
That looks quick Simon. Look forward to seeing more videos of it in action once you’ve got it sorted.

As for the spool valve, I reckon you’ll have to replace it, I had one which sounds suspiciously like you have, had to replace it no matter what I threw it it to try and repair it.

simonl
10th Aug 2018, 08:03 AM
Thanks Acco.

In that video the engine was running at about 2000 rpm, about 2/3 max speed. The hydraulic pump is rated to a max of 3000 rpm so that's the limiting speed of the system. 2000 - 2500 rpm seems to be a nice speed as it produces reasonable cycle times and reasonably low engine noise. I don't have a SPL meter but at 2000 rpm the sound level is tollerable without earmuffs. You can also hear the distinctive purr of the pump too, which sounds nice.

Boy am I looking forward to finishing it and destroying some wood!

Simon

Steamwhisperer
10th Aug 2018, 08:25 AM
Well done Simon, very impressive.

Phil

rcaffin
10th Aug 2018, 09:27 AM
You need to put a speed governor on the engine - something in polished brass, like at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governor_(device)

Cheers
Roger

simonl
10th Aug 2018, 12:01 PM
Thanks Phil.

Roger, i watt type mechanical speed governor is my next option if i cant make this electronic governor work.

Im already thinking ahead incase i need to make one. Im thinking of a pulley driven governor coming off the pulley that used to drive the aircon compressor. From there its a matter of scaling the weights, spring and a linkage to the carby.

Simon

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rcaffin
10th Aug 2018, 03:36 PM
Big trailer, big engine, big pump, big ram - something like that NEEDS a governor using some big brass balls.
Btw - a bit of damping is needed to stop the balls from hunting.

Cheers
Roger

Steamwhisperer
10th Aug 2018, 04:34 PM
Big trailer, big engine, big pump, big ram - something like that NEEDS a governor using some big brass balls.
Btw - a bit of damping is needed to stop the balls from hunting.

Cheers
Roger
I like the way you think Roger. :D

I have a worn out one I'm working on Simon lol.

Phil

shedhappens
10th Aug 2018, 11:18 PM
Thanks Phil.

Roger, i watt type mechanical speed governor is my next option if i cant make this electronic governor work.

Im already thinking ahead incase i need to make one. Im thinking of a pulley driven governor coming off the pulley that used to drive the aircon compressor. From there its a matter of scaling the weights, spring and a linkage to the carby.

Simon

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If you want the governor parts from a B&S or Kohler engine let me know and I will post them to you.

You would have to make a case with a drive shaft and run the gov at half engine speed.

cheers, shed

simonl
11th Aug 2018, 03:03 PM
Im hearing you roger!

Im hoping not to need a mechanical governor as ive already spent some money on an electronic engine speed governor.

Shed, thanks for the offer. I will use your offer as my backup plan if that is ok.

Today i made the adapter plate to mate the replacement 12v motor to the smaller hydraulic pump for the log lifter. I made it out of a flywheel from an old treadmill (Ah treadmills is there anything they cant do?) and it machined very nicely. Not like that other POS. Its mostly finished but i still need to make the small coupling drive shaft. Unfortunately im working nightshift tonight so im not going to get much more done today. Hoping to have the motor and pump mated up tomorrow and maybe lifting some big ball breaking logs!

Edit: not much to show but ill post a pic when its together.

Cheers.

Simon

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snapatap
11th Aug 2018, 03:34 PM
Can you post a pic of the leaking port on the valve? Is the crack around the circumference of the port or running radially away from it?

simonl
11th Aug 2018, 03:38 PM
Hi snap.

Running radially away. Ill see if i can get a pic before if leave for work and post tonight.

Simon

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Com_VC
12th Aug 2018, 12:21 PM
Out of interest what are you using for the electronic engine speed governor?

simonl
12th Aug 2018, 02:21 PM
Out of interest what are you using for the electronic engine speed governor?

Hi there,

I have one of these governors:

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/232615672470?chn=ps

and a proportional actuator for the carby fuel control:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISUZU-4L-9247-SJ-Governing-Actuator-Fuel-Shutoff-Solenoid-Precision-Governor-12V/253181460703?hash=item3af2ca80df:g:3mEAAOSwBPNXRdx1

For the speed sensor I'm using one of these and getting the signal off the adapter block I made that couples to the hydraulic pump.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magnetic-Pickup-3034572-Speed-Sensor-Fits-For-Cummins-K38-G38-QSK38-KTA38GC-K106/183268584806?hash=item2aaba8ad66%3Ag%3A-d0AAOSwWDFa4wYC&_sop=12&_sadis=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=magnetic+speed+pickup&_from=R40&rt=nc&_stpos=3918

I didn't pay those prices BTW. I stumbled on some "new old stock"

Time will tell very shortly if I'm barking up the wrong tree with this stuff.

Simon

simonl
12th Aug 2018, 02:36 PM
Today I finished the electric motor adapter plate to couple it to the electric driven hydraulic pump. I'm kinda thinking it would have just been a little easier to run the log lifter off the main pump. The reasons for not are mostly economics as I already had this electric driven pump and matching 3/8" hose and fittings. If I wanted to run it off the main pump I would need more fittings, another spool valve and probably a flow control valve so it wouldn't launch to log over to my neighbours!

Anyway, it's done now. Attached are some pics.

Pic 1 is thehydraulic pump unit showing the reservoir.
Pic 2 is looking at the mating end of the pump unit where the motor drives
Pic 3 is the adapter plate, screws and the mating shaft I made
Pic 4 is the adapter plate mounted onto the pump (ignor the one odd screw. it's all I had in M6)
Pic 5 is the electric motor end showing the bearing mount for the armature
Pic 6 is the armature with the mating shaft I made
Pic 7 is the armature (with shaft) housed and coupled to the pump
Pic 8 is the motor body slide over
Pic 9 is the pump and motor mounted in it's place underneath on the log splitter

Initial testing shows it works OK. I need not worry about it launching a log, it's bordering on being a bit slow. But the battery is also low so will see when I have a fresh battery and the engine is running and alternator pumping juice into the battery.

Simon
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/2fcfcc2d91b49ceefef002832b20c69a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/81a017a6a678ac63358496109c77a14b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/5638689c49630dba6f0a311ef203fa98.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/5bbbce59d9b47bc14f944d0328324235.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/2cc03946ca884b6291945f626febac71.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/f281f38998ef7488b3f0a8032fbf0b0f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/b34f71b882e3d6375ac2589c8da847bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/c372991f8ba0e91f13615f6d46a903b3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/13dad3d552fdf1c163bf9aadca1e9c8c.jpg

simonl
12th Aug 2018, 02:46 PM
I also made an attempt to fix the spool valve, which has a crack through the inlet port.

Here's a pic of the inlet port. Unfortunately, I used teflon tape when I initially made the connection and the pressure of the fluid has pushed some of the tape into the crack. I tried best I could to get it out but I had limited success. This may have a bearing on the success of my repair.

I have since cleaned the port with acetone and used a wicking penetrating high strength retaining fluid, similar to that suggested by Shed. I will give it 24 hours to cure and see how it goes. I don't hold much hope but for $10 it was worth a try.

Simon
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/91145103c2ac919eab726bde7dd4c0c3.jpg

Com_VC
12th Aug 2018, 03:06 PM
If that doesn't work, you might be able to braze or weld it. Cracked hydraulic valve (http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?58784-Cracked-hydraulic-valve)

eskimo
12th Aug 2018, 03:13 PM
Now this what I call a splitter, V8 Cat powered!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3ERkzvsLBM

another 3/4 hour later I am back reading this post

and great work Simon

BaronJ
12th Aug 2018, 06:48 PM
Hi Simon,

Is this a crack as well ?

374601

simonl
12th Aug 2018, 10:04 PM
Hmmm, not sure. Maybe?

I was thinking that maybe the crack in the thread is a result of me being too heavy handed when tightening the connections but if that is also a crack then it may be a fault in the casting. Tomorrow I'll re-test to see if it still leaks. The sealant will have cured for 24 hours by then. If it works then I'll never get the chance to look at that other suspected crack.

This spool valve is a Prince WLS800. Some Prince stuff is made in the US but I think these are made in China.

On a side note, today I also fixed up and wired in the alternator. The original alternator was a POS so I scored a reconditioned alternator from a 94 camry for next to nothing. The mounting was completely different so it required some "artistic license" to mount it. I even managed to keep the original fan belt! After connecting up the 2 wires from the internal voltage regulator to the lamp and voltage sense, I measured the output at 14.3V Happy with that!

Simon

shedhappens
13th Aug 2018, 02:54 PM
Simon I think that you and I have a different definition of a hairline crack, that looks more like the Suez Canal :D

No I dont want pictures I clicked that instead of the cheesy grin.

I reckon that if the loctite does work it probably wont for long.

You have 3 uncracked threads at the end, I think you could try a parallel thread fitting to get down to those threads and use a 264 or hydraulic loctite, http://www.loctite-success.com.au/content/uag/oneloctite-campaign/australia/www/en/whitepapers/_jcr_content/par/download_5/file.res/High%20pressure%20leak%20prevention%20improved%20performance%20and%20reliability%20from%20anaerobic%20thread%20sealing%20compounds.pdf

One of the problems here is that using the tapered fitting is that it forces the crack to open, even a parallel fitting might do the same, if so rather than trying to weld it you could machine the surface around the port and fit a ring over this with a interference fit to support it when tightened. (nipped up, no real need to tighten).

simonl
13th Aug 2018, 04:11 PM
I wondered why I had a "picture please " notification. You have fat fingers!

Anyway, yea OK so it's not a small crack. Yes I agree that a tapered thread is problematic by the nature it wants to open up the crack further. If it was the last spool valve in the world, I may be inclined to try weld it with either bronze or arc, but I have never tried either and I have never welded CI before anyway.

I'll find out hopefully when I get home if my cheerful and cheap method has worked. If not I think I will just order a new valve.

Simon

snapatap
13th Aug 2018, 08:34 PM
Well that crack is in a hard spot to repair. If the loctite doesn't work i would try silver soldering the crack. the silver solder should wick in and seal the crack up, then reinstall the fitting with hydraulic loctite without over tightening (will check the specs at work). I though you might have been able to bore out and sleeve the port, but it wont work with that casting.

simonl
13th Aug 2018, 08:59 PM
I fired up the splitter again tonight. It still leaks albeit nowhere near as much as before. So the verdict is a fail.

I was thinking that bronze welding may do it but i think that technique needs alot of heat. Silver may be the go.

Either way ive ordered another valve. I may still attempt a repair on this one at a later stage but for now i really need this thing running. Ive got a heap of wood that needs to be split and stacked so it can dry out over this spring/summer.

Cheers.

Simon

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simonl
15th Aug 2018, 08:18 AM
So i ordered a new valve from a different supplier. Just accepted it.

Out of interest i looked up my purchase history to see when i bought the damaged splitter valve. It was july 2016.

So i thought what the heck, ill message the seller and explain my circumstances about building this project and only finding out now that the valve has a crack. Sent them the same photos i put up here.

Blow me down. They replied within hours advising that they will send me a replacement!

I bought it 2 years ago!

Thats amazing customer service.

Now ive bought a valve for no reason!

Simon

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rcaffin
15th Aug 2018, 09:12 AM
So now you have a spare valve. That guarantees that the valve in the machine will never give any problems again. :)

Cheers
Roger

simonl
15th Aug 2018, 09:53 AM
Yea, I really like your logic. You're most likely correct!

Simon

Oldbikerider
15th Aug 2018, 10:03 AM
Now ive bought a valve for no reason!


Far from no reason, now you have an excellent excuse to start another hydraulic project :).

Tilting trailer? Stump grinder? Electric press?

Am I being helpful?

Graham.

simonl
15th Aug 2018, 05:58 PM
No. You're just being a trouble maker! :cool:

In truth I have any number of projects waiting for me. not including projects in the garden, I also have my mill to finish, in 3 months I'll have a 1000 x 630mm surface plate that will need a stand, and I also have a 1200mm pan brake that is half finished that I seriously want to complete.

Simon

BaronJ
15th Aug 2018, 08:11 PM
Hi Guys,

Too many projects, not enough hours in the day... :oo:

snapatap
15th Aug 2018, 08:18 PM
Hydraulic panbrake:U

simonl
17th Aug 2018, 07:51 PM
The other day I finished wiring up the electric hydraulic pump for the log lifter. I was quite pleased with myself, watching the lifter go up and down at the push of a button. I then figured it was time to stress test it so I plonked on a massive log that had been laying around. It was too knarled and big to split by hand, I had tried but I got sick of watching the log splitter bounce off it.

Half way up and the lifter stop lifting. The electric motor was spinning freely (without any load) but no movement. I thought maybe I sheared off my little connecting shaft I made, but when I took apart the motor and pulled it out, it was still OK. It appears as though something in the hydraulic pump has finally given in. I will have to look further into this but it seems a little disappointing.

That second spool valve may have a use quicker than I thought. I may end up connecting the log lifter up to the main pump, piggy backing the two spools, one to lift the logs and the other to split them. I'm just worried about the flow into the small ram, I will need some serious flow control to that.

Simon

shedhappens
17th Aug 2018, 09:12 PM
I'm just worried about the flow into the small ram, I will need some serious flow control to that.
Simon

You could put an adjustable stop on the lever or spool to limit the opening of the valve.

shed

simonl
18th Aug 2018, 08:19 PM
Yes I have thought of that. It may be the prefereable method to a flow restrictor as a flow restrictor will drive up the system pressure which puts unnecessary stress on hoses and components. Also, with two of these spool valves connected in line, it will increase the back pressure on the other spool valve and I don't know enough about hydraulics to know if that is an acceptable design for these particular spool valves.

An adjustable limiting stop is probably the safest way to go.

Simon

simonl
10th Sep 2018, 03:57 PM
Done some more work on the log splitter.

I have finished the actuator assembly that controls the throttle in response the the engine RPM measured by the electronic speed controller. Not a terribly technical job but fiddly non the less. One main issue was the fact that the actuator only moves a maximum of 12mm from fully out (idle) to fully in (WOT) as this needs to move the trottle shaft about 80 degrees (from idle to WOT). Sure, it can and was done with levers but it meant an increase in force required to do the job. The actuator already needed to work against a rather stiff internal spring designed to be a failsafe, returning the engine to idle if power is removed from the controller or actuator. As well as that, there are a couple of springs on the carburettor including a spring on the axillary power pump, which is an internal piston pump designed to deliver instant fuel when the trottle is pumped.

With the setup I made, the ratio of the throttle linkage movement to actuator movement is about 4.7:1 This kept the lever sizes reasonable including the lever on the throttle body.

Pic 1: All the parts laid out before assembly. They were all made from alluminium and SS. The moving parts are mostly aluminium, in order to keep moving masses to a minimum in order to help with response.

Pic 2: The linear proportional actuator dis-assembled. I removed the factory spring and replaced with one of a slightly less spring constant in order to help it overcome other forces.

Pic 3: Throttle body before adding the linkages

Pic 4: New linkage added

Pic 5: Base plate for the actuator assembly. It attaches on an inlet manifold bolt, an exhaust bolt and two smaller M6 holes on the top of the rocker cover that were pre-existing.

Pic 6: Actuator with linkage attached and screwed to the alluminium housing that attaches to the SS RHS

Pic 7: SS RHS assembly attached to base plate

Pic 8: Completed and installed actuator assembly.

I'm yet to make the necessary adjustments on the electronic engine speed controller yet. These include ramping speed from idle, droop adjustment, gain, stability and maximum engine rpm.

Cheers,

Simon
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shedhappens
10th Sep 2018, 04:16 PM
Nice neat job simon, one thing you might want to do is put a hose clamp on that fuel filter before it starts squirting fuel on
that hot exhaust manifold, your m8's at work would never let you live it down if they had to come and put it out :D

simonl
10th Sep 2018, 05:17 PM
Yea. You're right. Sometimes im too busy tackling the bigger issues and forget about the easy stuff thats equally important!

Simon

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simonl
10th Sep 2018, 07:03 PM
Well after a bit of tinkering I got the engine speed governor to kinda work. I have the actuator moving the carby throttle in response to engine load in an attempt to maintain a pre-determined engine RPM.

I'm having problems with the stability, it's currently hunting and when the engine is really loaded up it overshoots and revs the crap out of the engine. I'm surprised it hasn't thrown a 35 year old piston out the side on one occasion!

Like I said, there are two adjustment trim pots called "stability" and "gain" which are designed specifically to smooth out this erratic behaviour. I have ran out of time today but I'm confident that after some trial and error, I will get a satisfactory result.

It's still nice to see things working though.... well kinda.

Simon

BaronJ
11th Sep 2018, 12:07 AM
Hi Simon,

Feedback mechanisms can be a nightmare to tune ! :oo:

I used to cringe at having to do bode plots of systems. I'm sure that you can find something on the net that might help.
The letters P.I.D strikes terror and fear... I'm very glad that I can now forget it ever happened.

simonl
11th Sep 2018, 08:16 AM
Underdamped Oscillations. Yep I suspected I may have a job on my hands with this system. I'm not at the end of my tether yet as I have a few things to play with which may help with the situation. It's just a matter of changing one thing at a time and see what affect it has on the system. I have not really had much of a play with the Gain and Stability trimpots, I may yet establish a balance with further adjustments of these two parramaters alone.

As a last resort I could just introduce a mechanical damping system with an oil filled dash pot! :oo: I deliberately left the pivot pin on the linkage system hanging out, longer than needed just in case I need to add something to the system.

Simon

simonl
11th Sep 2018, 05:06 PM
OK I have had a bit more of a play. I have managed to mostly get rid of oscillations when the load is even and unchanging. Biggest issue is over shooting the target rpm range once an extra load is placed on the engine and it then over-compensates with throttle to the point it over-revs. I think it maybe my own fault. At this stage I am running this engine without a flywheel. It was an automatic which means it came with a flex plate, which essentially is a very lightweight ring gear for the starter motor to engage with. An engine coupled to a manual car has this ring gear as part of a much heavier flywheel. I think a flywheel will mostly dampen out the hi's and low rpm's keeping a more constant rpm range, making the job of the governor much easier.

Not a huge job to make one. Not exactly sure how heavy to make it but I assume the heavier the better, within reason. It's not like I want to engine to be super responsive in changes in rpm, in fact I want the opposite.

Simon

Com_VC
11th Sep 2018, 06:14 PM
Can't you just grab a flywheel from a manual version of that engine? Might save you some time.

caskwarrior
11th Sep 2018, 06:43 PM
Or just grab a bigger heavier flywheel out of an older engine, you are near some good wreckers like hearveys down there.

simonl
11th Sep 2018, 07:11 PM
Yea a stock flywheel from a similar make/model would be the go but being a 1983 model, S/H parts are becoming light on.

A flywheel from a different make/model would be hit/miss in terms of compatibility since the bolt pattern and ring gear would need to be the same.

Simon

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Com_VC
11th Sep 2018, 08:14 PM
If you know what it is out of try asking on an automotive type forum, you might end up getting it for free or at least very little. toymods.org.au maybe. It just seems like a huge project when finding something that bolts up would be a whole lot easier.

Michael G
11th Sep 2018, 08:58 PM
If that is a 4 cylinder Toyota engine, might be worth trying forklift repair places too. All those millions of Toyota forklifts with modified corolla engines...

Michael

SurfinNev
11th Sep 2018, 09:15 PM
What engine do you have? I may be able to help source a flywheel.

simonl
11th Sep 2018, 10:42 PM
Just bought a flywheel on ebay for $20.

No guarantee it will fit because its off a different model. Im in with a chance though as ive done some reading. Basically corolla flywheels came in 6 and (later) 8 bolt patterns. Get one with the same bolt pattern and all should be good. Apparently there can be issues with some not fitting on bell housings of other models but thats not an issue for me.

Simon

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simonl
11th Sep 2018, 11:23 PM
Thanks for the advice and offers for help everyone.

Simon

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simonl
18th Sep 2018, 05:43 PM
Quick update. The flywheel arrived couple days ago. It weighs spot on 8kg and looks to be in good nick. It fits fine and the starter engages well so no issues there.

I was nearly thinging it was going to be a "plug and play" as my adapter block (this piggy backs the ring gear and has the keyway to drive the hydraulic pump) fits neatly inside the flywheel. Surely it couldnt be that easy?

Well no, not quite. Since the flywheel mounting flange is a bit thicker than the flexplate, it pushes my mounting block out a further 10mm approx. Thats 10mm of room i dont have so i will need to trim my mounting block by that amount. I still think i got out of gaol with that one!

Theres also no room for the speed sensor where it originally was. So i will mount it in another spot to pick up the teeth on the flywheel. Thats 106 teeth. At 3000 rpm it equates to 5300Hz on the speed sensor. The electronic governor is good up to 7.5Khz so well within spec there but its yet to be seen if the induction sensor itself has a response time fast enough to deal with that.

While the pump is off the corolla, i have run it with the flywheel to test for correct starter engagement and balance. Runs nicely. Much smoother.

See if i can get some pics in next few days.

Simon

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simonl
8th Oct 2018, 08:37 AM
Hi all,

I have done some more work on this splitter and for once I can see an end in sight to this project. After the addition of a flywheel, I made the required modifications to the mounting hardware to re-fit the pump. It all runs really well. I don't understand why but the whole engine & pump are much quieter with the flywheel fitted.

I am still having issues with the electronic engine governor. I can't seem to get it to run smoothly and without erratic behaviour. It also overshoots the set rev point once the engine is loaded and it detects a drop in revs. I will persevere and keep trying for now to sort it out although I can pretty much run it without any engine speed governing as the flywheel seems to store enough energy for the engine to split anything now without stalling.

I have also plumbed up all the fittings for the log lifting. It now runs off the main pump via a second spool valve. I also ran into a bit of trouble with this the other day. Having attached all the plumbing and hoses, the only thing left to do was to attach the log lifting ram and cycle it in and out to bleed the air. It turns out the ram was as stiff as anything and barely wanted to extend or retract. Without anything attached to the ram, it was producing about 1000 psi in back pressure just to extend and retract!

Closer inspection revealed that the ram I had bought for an absolute bargain actually had a bent shaft! The seller told me he had bent a ram on his Bobcat and had to replace both because they only come in a pair, so he replaced both. Well, it turns out he really did need to replace both because he bloody well bent both! Anyway, at $20 I really couldn't complain I guess.

So, I thought I would investigate the straightening of bent hydraulic shafts. Youtube provided some "interesting" results to say the least including a dude who straigtened his shaft without even removing the ram, using a chain and a car jack. He actually achieved reasonable results.

So I took the ram apart and it soon became obvious that the shaft was bent. Not a huge amount to the eye but on a set of V blocks it registered a TIR of a few mm.

So I set about setting up a rig to straighten it out as best I could. My setup was rough and ready to say the least. I made a couple of timber V blocks out of a piece of 5x5" cypress pine. I did this with a a couple of strokes from a compound mitre saw, nothing special or even calculated.

I set these under my press. I marked the high spots on the shaft and put it under the press. I then set up my machine V blocks on my mill table. Bit by bit I pressed and then transfered to the mill table with the V blocks and an indicator. cycle after cycle I pressed and measured. Until in the end I got the shaft to within a TIR of 0.05mm. I called that done!

I put the hydraulic ram back together and to my surprise, it's a smooth as all get out and no leaks! SWEET!

I got out of gaol with that one too. I will post some pics in the next few days. I noticed in my last post I said the same thing but I really will take some pics today and post.

Simon

Oldbikerider
8th Oct 2018, 09:48 AM
Simon,

Great progress. I understand that you have an electronic speed governor? The symptoms you describe pretty much fit a gain setting that is too high, or if the governor is more sophisticated then the differential gain is set too low. What adjustments does the governor have? Did it come with any instructions for tuning? Maybe you've tried tuning it already, if not and you need help let me know. In another life I did this sort of thing (PID loop tuning) for a living.

Graham.