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20GT
7th Aug 2017, 05:51 AM
hi ya'll

I'm finishing a project I started 2 years ago and need advice on how to drill 48 holes through 1/8 inch stainless steel.
The holes need to go all the way thru the pipe so it's actually 96 holes.

369113 369114

I'm trying to recreate burners similar to these.

369115

The hole size will probably be determined by the size needed to be sturdy enough to go through both sides if it's not to big.
The one I was copying had 70 holes per side. I've seen homemade burners with much less and though if I could get my __?__ sized holes spaced out 1/4 inch per hole it would be 48 ish holes.


To make the holes evenly spaced I was going to slice up a 2x4 into 48 1/4" spacer slices and remove the one at a time as the holes get drilled.

The real problem is that I don't have a drill press.

But I do have some large 4 inch gears that I could use to make a the rack and pinion part of a drill press. But that would probably be a whole new project lol

Kinda just brainstorming, any suggestions?

jhovel
7th Aug 2017, 07:19 AM
I suspect buyinh a small cheap drill press would be the only sensible starting point.... You won't regret it.

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littlemick
7th Aug 2017, 07:56 AM
Make a bush to go over the burner pipe. Drill 2 holes straight through the bush at the spacing you want the holes in the burner. Have 2 drill bits the desired size. One will be a locating pin the other will drill the hole. Cut slice into bush so you can clamp it on tube. Slide bush on tube and clamp it in place. Drill first sets of holes. Release, index to next hole and insert location drill upside down. Clamp. Drill new holes. Rinse repeat.

If you don't have the means of making a bush I'm sure one of us can knock one up for you.

Cheers

Mick

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Michael G
7th Aug 2017, 08:02 AM
Mick, location is Orlando - I think that's the one in Florida...

My vote is for buying a drill press too. Even if you sell it after doing this job, it will save a lot of frustration (should be able to get a reasonable amount of money back if you do). Mick's drill jig will help get things lined up. I would also suggest some form of coolant as nothing kills a drill when drilling stainless like heat. A hand spray bottle (adjusted to a stream) will do it and provided you wipe everything down to prevent rust, water will do.

Michael

littlemick
7th Aug 2017, 08:13 AM
Doh. Location didn't jump out at me on my phone...

Even a second hand drill press would be handy. Craigslist or similar may be an option.

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20GT
7th Aug 2017, 09:32 AM
https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/d/central-machinery-drill-press/6242734263.html


hmmm is this brand any good

NAME BRAND- CENTRAL MACHINERY
SPEED- 5 SPEED 760-3070 RPM
TABLE TILT- 45" LEFT/RIGHT
SPINDLE STROKE- 2


THIS DRILL PRESS IS BRAND NEW ONLY USED TWO TIMES

On my way to get a drill press lol

Oldneweng
7th Aug 2017, 10:02 AM
A Murican asking Aussies whether this brand is any good is a novel experience for me. Just saying. Muricans are usually telling people from across the pond which is the best brand. :D

Central Machinery Drill Press seach on Google returns multiple hits on US sites. Harbour Freight being one. I have never heard of that brand myself. Is it Chinese made?

Looking at the pictures etc I would say it would be fine to do your job. 2900rpm is good for your needs. I would say you should check the drill press for rigidity and quill movement before buying. They look pretty lightly built. You can't expect perfection, but just make sure they are strong enough.

I would suggest using Cobalt (Co) HSS drill bits for stainless. Many HSS drill bits sold these days are not suitable for stainless. I have found that bits suitable will say so on the packaging.

Dean

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 10:20 AM
rigidity and quill movement??

Well i hope its good, i bought it and only tested the power and 5 speeds from an outlet in the back of a Publix shopping center.
Incase anyone ever needs power on the road I've alway found it at the back of shopping centers that contain a Publix but they probably all have them.
This particular one the GFCI outlet wouldn't test pop so I though it wasn't powered, but it worked when I plugged my phone charger into it. :)

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 10:45 AM
rigidity and quill movement??<br>
<br>
Well i hope its good, i bought it and only tested the power and 5 speeds from an outlet in the back of a Publix shopping center.<br>
Incase anyone ever needs power on the road I've alway found it at the back of shopping centers that contain a Publix but they probably all have them.<br>This particular one the&nbsp;GFCI outlet wouldn't test pop so I though it wasn't powered, but it worked when I plugged my phone charger into it.

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 11:01 AM
For fabbing up a burner a 1/16" hole will work just grand

from another site so I suppose that's the size bit I'll be looking for

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 11:03 AM
I would say you should check the drill press for rigidity and quill movement before buying. They look pretty lightly built. You can't expect perfection, but just make sure they are strong enough.


I bought it before I read your post. checked it for power.

littlemick
7th Aug 2017, 11:05 AM
Get ready for some hurt and buy extra drill bits. Empty the swear jar first to make some room.. you may well need it with 1/16" small drill.

Job rigidity while drilling is going to be important so the drill doesnt bend.... they don't like bending [emoji848]

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20GT
7th Aug 2017, 11:14 AM
2900rpm is good for your needs

The only speed settings close to that are 2180 RPM and 3070 RPM which one should I choose?

jack620
7th Aug 2017, 05:25 PM
2900rpm is good for your needs.


Isn't that a little fast for SS? I have more success with low RPM and a high feed rate when drilling SS.

And yeah, Cobalt drill bits are a must.

jack620
7th Aug 2017, 05:33 PM
I'm not an expert on gas burners, but given each burner has 96 holes, 1/16" sounds a little large. What size holes are in the replacement part you showed us?

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 06:37 PM
There not really holes more like can opener punctures. It's hard to say. The page that talked about 1/16" is on the PC in the bedroom and my wife is sleeping in there so I won't be able to link back to that page

https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-57587333958251/blue-hills-studio-long-reach-hand-paper-punch-1-16-circle-1.gif


This other site says 1.33mm hole

https://support.thegrillfather.com/hc/en-us/articles/205578339-Drill-Sizes-LP-Propane-to-Natural-Gas-Conversion-Drilling-Tips

1.33 millimeters = 0.0524 inch

Oldneweng
7th Aug 2017, 07:18 PM
Isn't that a little fast for SS? I have more success with low RPM and a high feed rate when drilling SS.

And yeah, Cobalt drill bits are a must.

Not for a 1/16" hole. 2900rpm or so seems about right. Probably better to go down in speed to 2180. These speeds are maximum recommended, but 3070 is only slightly faster so it may work too. You can go slower without any trouble usually. I will take a bit longer. Be careful of work hardening stainless steel. Do some tests on scrap first if you can. Don't push a drill bit if it seems blunt. Stop immediately. If you work harden the metal you will need a carbide drill to finish.

Holding it steady would be a good idea. Even clamp a bit of wood to the table so the tube can be held against it.

This tube should be low pressure only so hole sizes are not critical. The cast iron equivalent in my BBQ has 20 - 25 approx 3mm holes each side.

Dean

jack620
7th Aug 2017, 07:22 PM
20GT,
I'm pretty sure the website you linked is referring to the size of the hole (single) in the injector, rather than the holes in the burner tube.

20GT
7th Aug 2017, 08:43 PM
http://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=200928&p=1925341#post1925341

Related

Grahame Collins
8th Aug 2017, 03:35 PM
20GT

I don,t think those burners shown in your photos can be stainless steel. The inside of the tubes are well rusted. While you can sometimes see 304 with a rust stain on it, there is never any pitting or corrosion to the extent shown in the photo.

This will be worse once you subject the burners to a flame. Trust me, with the intermittent nature of the heat / cool cycle , those puppies rust in no time.

Or have I got it wrong and those pieces are just plain steel practice units?

Grahame

20GT
8th Aug 2017, 06:23 PM
Their not burners yet. It was a 5 foot piece from a conveyer system on a palletizer machine. The bad ones get replaced every year. It could have been on there for 9 years.

I just think it's extremely dirty with signs of surface discolouration from long periods of neglect,. I never actually cleaned it, I probably should have when it was one whole piece.

20GT
9th Aug 2017, 08:30 AM
How do I properly line up X and Y before bolting them down so that they are completely straight?

369137

A. something flat attachable to the pipe to stop it from rolling out of line while moving it forward
B. some form of table
C. 48 1/4 inch slats of wood for spacing
visegrip C clamp holding the pipe while drilling

littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 08:47 AM
You are going to need to centre punch the location before drilling as the drill will run off unless you make a drill jig as described above. Typically you can clamp thr pipe in a vee block but if you dont have one i have made them by welding 2 pieces of angle point to point so you end up with a x shape. For the application, i would centre punch and clamp it in the vice and move the vice along then index.

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20GT
9th Aug 2017, 09:35 AM
so the drill bit is going to run even though it's on a drill press?

If that's the case yesterday I drilled some tile with a hand drill that kept running, so i put 2 strips of masking tape over the spot and remarked it. The hole in the making tape was enough to stop the drill from running and I was able to drill the spot I wanted.

I don't have a vise that's why I was making this set up.

littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:37 AM
Was the tile flat or curved? Small drills will flex easily. Can try the tape but a centre pop is more definitive

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20GT
9th Aug 2017, 09:40 AM
make a drill jig as described above


above what?

littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:41 AM
As per my original post.

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20GT
9th Aug 2017, 09:41 AM
ah it was flat, the curve might not do as well how do i make a drill jig? it will guide the bit??

20GT
9th Aug 2017, 09:43 AM
Make a bush to go over the burner pipe. Drill 2 holes straight through the bush at the spacing you want the holes in the burner. Have 2 drill bits the desired size. One will be a locating pin the other will drill the hole. Cut slice into bush so you can clamp it on tube. Slide bush on tube and clamp it in place. Drill first sets of holes. Release, index to next hole and insert location drill upside down. Clamp. Drill new holes. Rinse repeat.

What is a bush?

littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:43 AM
Yep. A piece of pipe that fits over the one you are wanting to drill. Put 2 holes in the jig at correct spacing. 2 drill bits. One to locate and one to drill.

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littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:46 AM
If you clamp the jig in the vice and release it slightly you will be able to index the pipe then lock it up again. A poor mans collet so to speak

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20GT
9th Aug 2017, 09:48 AM
how do i drill holes in a pipe without a starting bush to drill the holes in said pipe to use as a bush?

not trying to be funny


Centre punch the first 2.
ah ok

littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:49 AM
Centre punch the first 2.



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littlemick
9th Aug 2017, 09:50 AM
You can also grind/file a flat on the bush where you want to drill your holes but I would still centre pop as well. Costs nothing and saves time and drills

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Oldneweng
9th Aug 2017, 11:24 AM
Centre punch the first 2.



These need to be in line otherwise you will produce a nice spiral of holes. :D It might look nice, but I don't think it will produce the required flame pattern. :no:

Dean

franco
9th Aug 2017, 04:04 PM
I don't have a vise that's why I was making this set up.

You show a vise sitting on the mill table in the photos in your other thread, which you have referred to as a mill. It is a compound or two way or cross vise - all names for this type of vise.

http://metalworkforums.com/f65/t200928-mill-ccenter-drill-press

Frank

20GT
10th Aug 2017, 07:14 AM
that's true I didn't think of that as a vise

20GT
11th Aug 2017, 10:41 AM
ok that was too easy and I discovered a magnet sticks to the pipe so if its stainless steel its ferritic stainless steel.


https://youtu.be/z9_-yrqkV3I

MrFixIt
24th Aug 2017, 10:11 PM
1/16" hole is too small. This will produce a very small flame. Consider 3/32" or 1/8". Drill a few holes in a sample piece of pipe and test the result. Use a smaller drill first and increase the hole size (as required) to suit. Be careful. You may need to change the jet size to achieve your preferred flame. You will need to adjust the aerator to obtain the best looking flame. My recommendation is, try for a flame length of about 1" and adjust the aerator to eliminate any yellow tips. BTW, jet sizes for LP gas are MUCH smaller than "mains" gas.

Clean out the burrs from the inside of the holes, this can influence the gas flow through the holes.

KBs PensNmore
26th Aug 2017, 12:16 AM
I used to make a similar component for an air conditioning/heating company. I ended up getting a toolmaker to grind down the ends of centre drills to 1/16", as drilling the stainless was getting expensive on jobber drill bits.
Kryn

Grahame Collins
26th Aug 2017, 09:06 AM
I have made burner jets using .9mm mig welding contact tips.

If you need to play with jet sizing different diameter contact tips are available in .6mm, .8mm, .9mm and 1.2mm to suit wire sizing, then available as singles from a weld supply shop.

From memory the outer diameter thread was M6. Some contact tips are threaded ,others have a cam shape to fit.

The burner venturi was adjustable by means of a round plate with a central 10mm thread.It screwed up on a 10mm thread tube in which the mig tip was threaded and the assembly projected into the burner.

The burner tubes were not drilled but slotted with a thin blade angle grinder cutter.

The pipe was about 32 od and cuts were about 50mm apart and for about 25mm arc across the pipe.

We had only black pipe but it was only for a single use for a burners on a spit for 21st birthday party so longevity did not matter.

Hope this helps

sacc51
27th Aug 2017, 02:19 PM
Here are a couple of burners I made for bush showers. They were mad e from 20 or 22mm round tube I bent in about a 4-5" circle, added a straight piece for the inlet and drilled a hole the the straight section into the circular burner. The holes on the gray burner are around 3mm from memory and are larger than the holes in the the black burner and consequently heated the shower water quite a bit faster. I still have the black burner which I use when we bush camp in the Penguin. The bigger the holes the quicker they heat - up to a point... If it's of any use I can measure the holes.

20GT
30th Aug 2017, 08:11 AM
1/16" hole is too small. This will produce a very small flame. Consider 3/32" or 1/8".

I pulled one of the old brunner's today. They don't appear to be the ones I remember. The ones I remember had tiny can opener type holes, this one has actual holes.
I put a 1/16 bit in the hole and i looks like a match

369658

i suppose the next step before testing is to make the venturi

369660

Oldneweng
30th Aug 2017, 10:54 AM
I have never seen mesh covering the air intake holes. All the ones I have seen are just open. The mesh would reduce the air flow and slowly block up. I am also used to seeing the air holes further up the tube leaving an uncut section on the end.

The only mesh I need is to cover the air holes in the BBQ body to keep the rodents out.:(( Mine is homemade from a heavy wall 44. I fitted 4 cast iron burners which where the biggest cost by far. That was over 20yrs ago. I need to make a stainless steel grill section as the mild steel one keeps going rusty.

Dean

20GT
30th Aug 2017, 11:48 AM
I fitted 4 cast iron burners which where the biggest cost by far. That was over 20yrs ago.
Dean

something like this?

369661

Oldneweng
31st Aug 2017, 02:41 AM
No, more like this.

369662369663369664

Sorry I took so long to reply. I have been busy. I have been vacuum packing a 14 month old bull for the freezer. More fodder for the BBQ. :D Yes it took a lot of looking to find a bag big enough to fit him in. Looks like nice meat. We had some snags for tea. We don't usually eat them, but decided to try them and see whether we had to give them all away to the kids or keep some for us. They were nice. Bad luck kids. They'll probably snag (:rolleyes:) some T bones or rump instead. :C

Dean

Grahame Collins
3rd Sep 2017, 11:25 PM
I have never seen mesh covering the air intake holes. All the ones I have seen are just open. The mesh would reduce the air flow and slowly block up. I am also used to seeing the air holes further up the tube leaving an uncut section on the end.

The only mesh I need is to cover the air holes in the BBQ body to keep the rodents out.:(( Mine is homemade from a heavy wall 44. I fitted 4 cast iron burners which where the biggest cost by far. That was over 20yrs ago. I need to make a stainless steel grill section as the mild steel one keeps going rusty.

Dean

Dean,
I was chasing something on a forge burner the other day. In the write up the mesh was mentioned as a device for introducing turbulence of the incoming air to better mix with the gas.

Grahame

Oldneweng
3rd Sep 2017, 11:51 PM
In the first picture I posted above you can make out a bolt with lock nut at the start of the wider section, which I believe is for the same purpose. It is screwed into the gas jet to break it up. Thanks for that info. It makes sense. The air will be drawn in as discrete streams.

I paid retail price for the ones in my BBQ. Some time after that I saw some identical burners at a garage sale for I think $5.00 each. They are still in the shed.

Dean