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Turbine Builder
6th Oct 2016, 11:39 PM
G'day people,
This is my first thread hope you enjoy it. I sold my chinese steel master lathe and purchase this Japanese Okuma LP Lathe. She weighs in at 2 tons heavy duty just how i like it:U Some specifications here
360mm swing over the bed 400mm swing over gap, 600mm between centers, 5HP 3 phase motor, coolant pump, 33mm spindle bore, A1-5 spindle nose, variable speed knopp variator, approx 45-2500 rpm, MT3 tailstock taper.
So will be working on this lathe for a while to get it clean up,do some repairs and get it running on a VFD.
Cheers,
Mark.364595364596364597364598364599364600

caskwarrior
7th Oct 2016, 09:25 AM
That looks like a really nice, clean machine, I really like that nice big horizontal traverse handwheel. Did Okuma eventually get absorbed by Mori-Seiki? If you ever need a hand let me know.

Came with a QCTP too!, did you get a 4 jaw and steadies?

Ralph

Turbine Builder
7th Oct 2016, 10:28 AM
G'day Ralph,
She not that clean when you look at these photos. Okuma are still making lathes only CNC Yeah got the 4 jaw and steadies just wanting for a manual to arrive from the US. I remove the apron as there is a lot of crud that has settle on the bottom of the apron and behind the unit as well.364601364602364603364604364605364606364607364608364609

Turbine Builder
7th Oct 2016, 10:45 AM
No worries, there will more to come.

Turbine Builder
13th Oct 2016, 06:36 PM
Today i spent the hole day cleaning the lathe and drain the gearbox oil which was nice and clean so will put that oil back in and drain the Kopp variator the oil is dark but no nasties in the oil, there is a service tag on the variator case might have been rebuilt ? Also the felt pads arrive the other day, will start work on the apron tomorrow.
Cheers,
Mark.364675364676364677364678364679364680364681364682

Turbine Builder
14th Oct 2016, 03:10 PM
364684364685364686364683364687364688 Done some cleaning on the apron today, remove the bottom plate and clean out all the sludge. I want to remove some of those rusty gears and shafts but those bloody pins won't budge :~ will use the heat gun and see if that will work :? Will do a final clean tomorrow and put the apron on the workbench and check for any damage gears ect,ect
Cheers,
Mark.

Michael G
14th Oct 2016, 03:18 PM
Looks good so far. The rust only looks slight, so provided that coolant won't get in again, I would not get too upset about not being able to get the gears out. If it really bothered you, how about some paper towel wrapped around them that has been soaked in evaporust?

Michael

Turbine Builder
14th Oct 2016, 04:14 PM
G'day Michael,
Yeah she coming along nicely. Mmmm you got me thinking about what you said as it is slight rust witch i can use a small wire brush and maybe some evaporust as well. The shafts are not seize and all work, so best not and try to remove them don't wont to damage anything in there. Thanks for your suggestion:)
Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
20th Oct 2016, 05:00 PM
I got some time to work on the apron today. LOL i lost count on how many times i have flush out the inside of the apron but nice and clean now, had to use compress air to blow out some flaky paint, hopefully i got most of it out. Clean all the other parts and clean off the old silicone gasket. And found some string to replace some of the oil wicks.364771364764364765364766364770364769364768364767364772364763

Michael G
20th Oct 2016, 08:08 PM
Not sure there would be a great deal of benefit making a cover for the half nut oil reservoir - when everything is assembled it's covered by the carriage.

Michael

Oldbikerider
20th Oct 2016, 09:40 PM
Good progress! Do you know what the string you've chosen is made from? I'm restoring a lathe myself and I need to replace some oil wicks and I've been wondering what to use. I found pipe cleaners in the oil pots on mine.

Graham.

Turbine Builder
20th Oct 2016, 10:33 PM
G'day Michael,
Mmmm yeah i see what you mean i suppose i can blow out any metal chips with compress air.

Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
20th Oct 2016, 10:40 PM
G'day Graham,
Thanks mate. I don't know what type of string it is just had it lying around the shop so done a test on it and works well. I did do a lot of research on oil wicks. Here is some web links that should help you out, you could use lighter wicks, oil lamp wicks, non wax candle wicks. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/BabbittLubrication.ashx http://www.heritagesteamsupplies.co.uk/worsted-wool-lubricator-kit.html

Cheers,
Mark.

Steamwhisperer
21st Oct 2016, 09:01 AM
Hi Mark
before you go too far with the wicks I have some information that may be of some assistance. As you can imagine I use wicks on a daily basis at work and have done many many test on what to use with the modern oils of today. I found that wool was by far the best to use and make up the trimmings according to the methods in the attached pics. They are easy to make using a coil of copper wire and a ball of wool.
If you need any more info just let me know.
I have just noticed nthat the pics aren't very clear so if you find it hard to read them I will scan them again.

Phil
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Turbine Builder
21st Oct 2016, 12:01 PM
G'day Phil,
Thanks for your reply and thanks for the info some good reading there. Looks like i have the tail oil wick trimmings for the lathe. I was thinking of using wool but the ID of the oil tubes are ~3 mm i could use cotton? The test i did was with oil from the gearbox i had no oil from the apron. I need to wait until the manual arrives then i will know what oil to use for the apron and will do another test with that string which it might be cotton or cotton and nylon. Here is a photo of some oil wicks what do you think this string could be made off?
Cheers,
Mark.
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Steamwhisperer
22nd Oct 2016, 08:11 AM
Hi Mark
Trimmings (wicks) are tricky things and normally take a bit of time to get right. :oo:
I use wool but just buy the appropriate 'ply' for the job. There are a few factors involved in getting the right amount of oil to the bearing or slide.
The size of the riser pipe, the amount of wear in the bearing, ambient temperature and its a effect on the oil, how many strands you make the wick out of to name a few.
Some times the bearing can create a suction situation and drag all the oil from the reservoir relatively quickly yet if the bearing has close tolerances then it will feed very little.
The trimmings wick the oil from the reservoir and then once it enters the riser pipe it starts to syphon the oil to the bearing while acting as a filter to clean the oil hence the reason to periodically clean the trimmings.
The cover on the oil reservoir musn't seal too perfectly as a vacuum can be created and stop the flow of oil (don't ask me how I know) :-
There is a bit more but the good wife has summoned me for other duties. :((

Phil

Turbine Builder
22nd Oct 2016, 11:19 AM
Hi Phil,
Yeah it looks like a tricky job to do. I have some yo yo string 100% cotton will do a test on them as well. Ah yes speaking off musn't seal too perfectly i was thinking of sealing up this section on the apron see photo. I can't remember if it had some silicone gasket on it, will have a look under the carriage see if there is any silicone left on that section.
Cheers,
Mark.364823

Steamwhisperer
23rd Oct 2016, 07:42 AM
Hi Mark
I used cotton trimmings for a while but stopped though I can't remember why :-. I am now using wool and I get the feeling that the cotton degraded quicker. Our trimmings are removed nightly and replaced in the morning so get a lot of wear and tear. In your situation though that won't happen of course. There is the tired old argument of whether to use wool or worsted and if I remember correctly, wool won the argument as the fibres are in strands and not in random short bits like worsted yarn. This helped in the wicking process. I think though that the Americans used a bit of cotton in their machines.
If it was me I would use the wool.

In your pic you indicated that you would use a rubber seal in the trough, did an old one come out there? Also I'm not sure that I would use the gasket between the carriage and apron but that may be just me.
Do you have a pic of the underside of the carriage showing the mating part for the apron?

You are doing a great job by the way and worthy of an Okuma.

Phil

Turbine Builder
23rd Oct 2016, 10:29 AM
Hi Phil,
Yeah i think i will go with the cotton. Yes there a rubber seal in the trough which is still in place underside of the carriage, once i get the apron back onto the lathe will start on the carriage will have pics on that soon and hopefully the manual will arrive next week. Thanks for the admiration:)

Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
29th Oct 2016, 06:27 PM
Started cleaning up the saddle and remove the 2 snap screws which was easy:) and clean up some other parts. The apron is back together just got to make some new oil wicks, bought 20L of Sheel Tellus 15 oil for the Kopp variator it holds 1.8L if any one needs this type of oil let me know and i can sell you some:? And the manual has arrive so got some reading to do.
Cheers,
Mark.364943364944364945364946364947

Michael G
29th Oct 2016, 08:23 PM
I would guess the large holes had felt in them to act as a wiper and keep the oil where it is needed. The small holes are just inlets and between the two large holes so no felt needed. You're doing a great job on that lathe and it should repay the effort.

Michael

Turbine Builder
30th Oct 2016, 02:43 PM
Thanks mate, yeah i was thinking the two small holes are inlets. The holes go through the other side of the saddle just under the ways, will get some more photos to show you.
Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
2nd Nov 2016, 03:13 PM
I was going to fit the apron back onto the lathe, when i decided to put oil in the apron and test out the two oil pumps. The push type oil pump is working but the hand wheel pump was not pumping oil into the small oil reservoir, so i drain the oil out and remove the bottom plate and got the pump out the plunger was stuck. Pulled it apart as you can see a part of the spring has broken off, so have to shop a heavy gage spring.


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Michael G
2nd Nov 2016, 03:20 PM
I have a grab box of springs. If you can post some measurements I'll see what I have.

Michael

Oldbikerider
2nd Nov 2016, 03:24 PM
That big green and red hardware store chain has a surprisingly large range of springs.

Graham.

Turbine Builder
2nd Nov 2016, 04:14 PM
Hi Michael, thanks for the offer, but i will check out my local industrial supply store first. Been looking at oil plunger springs which might work out, I"ll do some shopping around tomorrow .

Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
2nd Nov 2016, 04:18 PM
Hi Graham,
Yeah will have a look and just up the road from them is Pete's Bargain center, he got all sorts of items new and second hand.

Cheers,
Mark.

Turbine Builder
4th Nov 2016, 04:01 PM
I manage to find a comp spring for the oil pump. Did a test all good:) resealed the bottom plate on the apron and attach the apron onto the lathe.

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MasterSpoon
4th Nov 2016, 05:19 PM
I notice the lifting hooks on the apron, I'm guessing it had a bit of weight to it.

Looking real nice tho, certainly cleans up nicely

Turbine Builder
4th Nov 2016, 06:07 PM
I notice the lifting hooks on the apron, I'm guessing it had a bit of weight to it.

Looking real nice tho, certainly cleans up nicely
Thanks mate, Yeah the apron is to heavy for one person to lift, so is the saddle and i have the engine crane so why not use it. Still a lot more to do, will start on the tail stock soon :)

Turbine Builder
9th Nov 2016, 04:59 PM
Got the saddle on today and done some tests on the oil system all good and now stated work on the tail stock.

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Turbine Builder
12th Nov 2016, 06:27 PM
I had to drill holes in the tailstock base plate to get these rollers out. And clean up the compound and quick change tool holder and adjusted all the gibs, will check it again when i level out the lathe.365223365224365225365226365227365228

.RC.
12th Nov 2016, 07:10 PM
I would leave those rollers out. They do not achieve much. My 10EE had a similar setup but with balls. The idea is you unlock the tailstock and the spring loaded rollers lift the tailstock and it runs along the rollers, stopping wear. They forgot that over time they sieze up and just wear flats and wear out the tailstock bed ways.

Turbine Builder
12th Nov 2016, 09:39 PM
Yeah i was thinking of leveing them out, i have some bakelite material somewhere or i could use some Igus material. The tailstock is very heavy.

Turbine Builder
20th Nov 2016, 12:27 PM
Work on the lathe has slowed down a bit, waiting for a piece of bakelite rod to arrive then i can finish off the tailstock repair. Cleaned up the back panels and bolted them in back in place, will see if i can get the ammeter gauge repared or find a replacement. Working on the felt wiper holders at the moment.

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Turbine Builder
11th Dec 2016, 06:30 PM
Been doing a bit of work on the lathe, not much as we are getting close to Xmas, so lots of preparation jobs to be done for Xmas. I took out the coolant pump and clean out that section of the tank were the pump sits, lots of flaky paint was coming off need to get get as much of that paint off so it wont block the pump, it had wire mesh sitting under the pump with a hose clamp don't know if that was factory fitted :? I pulled apart the 3 jaw scroll chuck for cleaning, very worn out scroll gear will need a replacement chuck in the future.

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snapatap
11th Dec 2016, 09:42 PM
I wouldn't be too worried about the wear on the scroll gear. It would have taken 30 years of workshop abuse to get to that stage, I doubt it will get any worse. If the chuck run out isn't too bad I wouldn't bother replacing it.

Turbine Builder
12th Dec 2016, 08:45 AM
Yeah 30 + years of abuse, will still use it and will get a new chuck latter on. Have started cleaning up the 4 jaw chuck at the moment something is not right with this chuck, will give a update latter today.

Turbine Builder
12th Dec 2016, 01:40 PM
Pulled apart the 4 jaw chuck, was hard to unscrew each jaw out of the chuck clean all the parts up and done a test fit before assembly. All the jaws got stuck number 3 jaw almost went all the way in, does anyone know were i can get this chuck repaired:? or should i get a replacement chuck :?

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caskwarrior
12th Dec 2016, 01:55 PM
Will the jaws go in if you try them in different slots? are they numbered by the factory, some more detailed photos of the chuck jaw slots and screws might help. In terms of fixing the thing, you are on your own I would say (with us around though )

my guess would be something like although the jaws are in the right slots the screws themselves have been mixed around, some hi-spot blue or a sharpie might let you see what kind of contact is being made.

If you need another lathe to fix the screws happy to volunteer my time and machine.

Ralph

Michael G
12th Dec 2016, 01:59 PM
If they were in there to start with then it can not be all bad - in fact it's good as it looks like there is not much wear there. From your photos it looks like you have no lubrication between the jaws and the chuck body, and that the screws are not in. For a tight fit you would have better success with both I think.
Check both the jaws and the part they run in for burrs. It may be in the past something has dinged part of the chuck slightly. Emery wrapped around a file or flat block should be enough to take off the high points.

Michael

Turbine Builder
13th Dec 2016, 01:45 PM
If they were in there to start with then it can not be all bad - in fact it's good as it looks like there is not much wear there. From your photos it looks like you have no lubrication between the jaws and the chuck body, and that the screws are not in. For a tight fit you would have better success with both I think.
Check both the jaws and the part they run in for burrs. It may be in the past something has dinged part of the chuck slightly. Emery wrapped around a file or flat block should be enough to take off the high points.

Michael

Yeah i know what you mean, the chinese lathe i had the chuck was very hard to turn with the chuck key, i found out the scroll gear had some warpage due to over tightening of the chuck me thinks :? I got some flat block brass and stuck emery cloth on and gave a bit of sanding has fix it, not prefect but once i start working with the lathe will put the 4 jaw chuck to work and will see if it wears in a bit and make it more user friendly.

Turbine Builder
13th Dec 2016, 01:54 PM
Will the jaws go in if you try them in different slots? are they numbered by the factory, some more detailed photos of the chuck jaw slots and screws might help. In terms of fixing the thing, you are on your own I would say (with us around though )

my guess would be something like although the jaws are in the right slots the screws themselves have been mixed around, some hi-spot blue or a sharpie might let you see what kind of contact is being made.

If you need another lathe to fix the screws happy to volunteer my time and machine.

Ralph
Hi Ralph,
Thanks for the offer mate. I tried using different slots still have the same problem, the jaws are fine and the screws are prefect it's the chuck housing. But i have fix the problem using some emery cloth stuck on a brass flat and just gave the slots a bit of sanding, a good 45 minutes on one slot three more to go.

Turbine Builder
21st Dec 2016, 01:38 PM
Some photos of what i have done for this year. I got a second hand pratt burnerd chuck to replace the worn out one, only problem with this one no reverse jaws :( Panted the sides of the coolant tank and replace the hose as the other hose was hard as a rock, and fitted the chip guard back on will do some mods to the guard in the new year. Got my first quote to run a three phase line to the garage $4,026 including GST. I'll get some more quotes next year.

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Turbine Builder
22nd Feb 2017, 12:00 PM
OK new year update on the lathe, had new rollers made up out of some bakelite rod for the tail stock. I'm thinking i could of use brass or bronze for the rollers, but this will do for now and i want to make new roller carriers as well.
At last got the three phase line installed , three electrical contractors to do the job was a lot to do. Now got to wait for the truck appointment to hook up three phase power witch may take two weeks won't be long know and i can do some test on the machine.

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Turbine Builder
4th Apr 2017, 05:02 PM
Just got the three phase power hook up today all good,only took them about 7 weeks and when the truck arrive took them about 1 1/2 hours and i had three phase power. I got to get use to the carriage handwheel being on the left side, would of been nice if it was on the right and i can not get the power cross feed to work, when i engage the cross feed lever no power feed. Just getting acquainted with the lathe, few more things to fix up. First parts to machine was Acetal feet for my surface plate stand all good will try some solid round steel stock soon.

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Turbine Builder
5th Apr 2017, 07:34 PM
I work out how the power cross feed works, there is a bottom lever that need to be engage on the apron. Also a couple of photos of new work light and new coolant flex hose. Made a video of the lathe running and first metal chips are made out of some stainless steel stock.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZs64EgauI


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Turbine Builder
4th May 2017, 04:16 PM
OK i have now finish off this project, i have completed all the work that was needed done on this lathe and i am happy the way things have turn out with this project.
Here is the last update of what i done. Had to machine up a spacer for the oil pump light as the bulb was 5mm to long for the lens, and had to order the 32 volt work light bulb as it's not a common bulb here. I also machine up two aluminium bed wiper holders, the screws that were missing was 28 TPI i could not find any but i was in luck the chip guard had the 28 TPI screws, so got four of them and replace with 6mm metric screws and nuts. One small job to do is machine up a brass pin for the back stop, have a compression spring to go with it and that's it.
Cheers,
Mark.

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.RC.
4th May 2017, 05:56 PM
and had to order the 32 volt work light bulb as it's not a common bulb here.



You should have bought a LED spotlight capable of 32V (motorbike lights) and used it with a bridge rectifier. That is what I do these days for the old machines with 32V lights. Although I know of where there are huge numbers of old 32V bulbs left over from the days old pastoral stations ran 32V generators.

Turbine Builder
4th May 2017, 06:41 PM
You should have bought a LED spotlight capable of 32V (motorbike lights) and used it with a bridge rectifier. That is what I do these days for the old machines with 32V lights. Although I know of where there are huge numbers of old 32V bulbs left over from the days old pastoral stations ran 32V generators.
Yeah i was thinking of upgrading. but it has been upgraded in the past with a step down transformer,and i got a 10 Pack x 32 Volt 60W Clear bulbs off ebay for a good price brand new same deal with the oil pump bulb 10 x 18 volt bulbs.