Gas Forge Build

[DSEL74]

Made a start on my gas forges today. Both are having front opening doors and a fixed size mouth.

Working out the hinges.


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[DSEL74]

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Hinges started, sitting on the front mouth with the rear mouth inside.
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[DSEL74]

Hinges are done hinges just need to notch out the front to follow the curve.

Hinge is made to match the width of the forge mouth.
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Next I need to make the feet and fit them so I can set the baseline foe horizontal to which the mouth can be cut parallel and the hinge pin at 90deg. Only problem is I have to wait for a non fireban day to light the coke forge to bend the feet.[emoji20]

[DSEL74]

Got the feet bent up today along with forging a rebar filleting knife 🔪

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[Grahame Collins]

It looks like a smooth move with the hinges if I am seeing it correctly.

Its always easier to cut partially cut through the cylinder wall under the hinge area, tack hinges on,then complete the cut.

No problems with misaligned or sagging doors

It prevents all manner of grief from trying to match the door back to its original position and alignment.

Will the D shaped door be hinged also?

Grahame

[BobL]

It looks like a smooth move with the hinges if I am seeing it correctly.

Its always easier to cut partially cut through the cylinder wall under the hinge area, tack hinges on,then complete the cut.

No problems with misaligned or sagging doors

I just upgraded the camping fireplace/oven and did exactly that.
This unit is made from a pair of SS clothes dryer drums.
Every year I upgrade or mod it so there is something to talk about around the fire side.
The complaint from the punters last year was that a single doorway did not allow for happy fireside ambience to be shared by everyone sitting around the campfire so the latest model has 3 doors that each cover about 50º each spread evenly around the shell of the fireplace.
The top (oven) compartment is unchanged from last year.
Will post come pics when I get the camera out.

[DSEL74]

plan was to fit the hinges before cutting the last few tabs that held the door on but that left me with a guess as to the location of the mouth. So I cut the door off today. New plan is to line it and fit the floor measure the height. Tack the door back in place cut the mouth and fit the hinges.

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[BobL]

I welded a 25 mm wide ring as an internal rim on the open ends of the cylinder. Placed the ends (both my ends are on hinges) back on so it sat over the rim and welded the hinges in place. A complete rim is not really necessary - just 3 short tabs would do.

[DSEL74]

Rear opening in, went over it several times until I was running nice beads. Then ground the whole thing smoothing. No one will know I actually had nice welding for once http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160128/14a2a5a954db75c4ac818b7dd3b75429.jpg

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[DSEL74]

Made some progress. Bought some cheap Chinese rods. Never waste your money on those. Had some experienced welders try them and couldn't get them to work either. As a beginner it really messed with my progress learning as I thought it was me.

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[Grahame Collins]

DSEL74
A question,if you will,on the length of that burner tube. Is there a particular reason why it is so long? is there a diameter to length ratio that affects the performance of the burner.

Or is it that, you got the dimensions from a plan and are simply using those dimensions?

I would like to find the reason as I am building one and want to keep the burner tube length short as possible to make it easier to wheel the furnace on its trolley into my storage space when I am not using it.

A long burner tube sticking out may will catch on other things.

Your furnace is coming very nicely.About the RHS inserted inside.

Is it to provide a robust working surface or is there another reason?
I am curious as to whether it will soak up a lot of energy getting it up to furnace running temp?

Thanks
Grahame

[DSEL74]

Sorry I can't really help on your burner question as I bought it like that from gameco. I was going to make one but after reading many posts on how much trouble people had tuning them and getting them to work properly I decided to buy what I had seen work on the same basic size and design forge. Corin works in the gas industry and makes forges and knives so I assume he knew what he was doing in terms of the gas flow etc.

The tube unscrews from the Bing in the top of the forge so a little hassle but you could remove it for storage.

The RHS in the front and rear is to create a strong opening where the tongs and steel will knock about rather than damaging the wool and have fibres blow off which can be harmful to breath.

The reason it is angled is my hair brained idea of supporting long objects on one side and access with tongs on the other. I intend to cut away most of the protruding top and leave just the shelf and part of the side as a brace.
When running the "dragons breath" does come out the door a good 100-200mm so the shel also shields your bench.

I still have to coat mine with a wash of satanite, trim the RHS, and add a ring around the door, and a latch for the door.

[Ueee]

Whilst these burners screw in i would make it so they slip in to a bit of pipe welded into the body. This way you can just slip the burner out after use, it saves the important end from getting too hot after the forge is turned off. It will stay cold during use due to the cooling effect of the gas jet.

Dale your RHS in your door should have the inner end covered with wool, any exposed steel will disappear at an alarming rate.

[DSEL74]

Bugger, can I get away with coating it with satanite?

[DSEL74]

Gassed up the gas forge today, even made lunch.
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[12bolts]

I've made my own Gas, and (oil burners) from plans out there on the web. its really not that difficult to make, or get running satisfactorily.

Sorry I can't really help on your burner question as I bought it like that from gameco. I was going to make one but after reading many posts on how much trouble people had tuning them and getting them to work properly I decided to buy what I had seen work on the same basic size and design forge.
Lots of good info on this site AlloyAvenue network (http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/forum.php/) for plans and information. Really good bunch of friendly fellows. Small group, No flaming, (ha ha)

Cheers Phil

[Zsteve]

Grahame, A good ratio for burner length I understand is about 8 to 9 times diameter. though different styles of burners generally have slightly different characteristics.

Some good reading here (https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/65-gas-forges/) about burner design and forge design.

[DSEL74]

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Turns out the Dragons Breath isn't compatible with the paint.