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R. McCarthy
9th Feb 2005, 05:27 PM
Due to total laziness over the years, I find that I have a bunch of metal everything - saws, rulers, chisels, you-name-it - that have acquired a lovely patina of rust.
Not serious, metal-pitting stuff but enough to stop me reading the gradations on steel ruilers for example.
I'm pleading for some input as to how to bring them back to life !!
No chrome type finish but just clean and readable.

Thanks

Pete J
9th Feb 2005, 05:42 PM
G'day

This forum has had a lot of useful info on this. Electrolysis works a treat and I have used it on many things recently.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=14620&highlight=electrolysis (http://)

R. McCarthy
9th Feb 2005, 07:50 PM
Pete J.

Mate, thanks for the reply but when I click on the site you suggested, I get "the page unavailable" crap.

Could you be more specific......

Thanks

Pete J
9th Feb 2005, 08:26 PM
My apologies.

I am obviously a technological incompetent.
Use the board's search facility for 'electrolysis', and see how you go. There are also a number of useful articles on the net generally about this.

You need a bucket, some saline solution (washing soda or the like added to water) a piece of stainless steel (I use a length of bathroom stainless curtain rod) and a battery charger.

Robert's your father's brother.

Regards

graemet
9th Feb 2005, 08:33 PM
You need a bucket, some saline solution (washing soda or the like added to water) a piece of stainless steel (I use a length of bathroom stainless curtain rod) and a battery charger.

Robert's your father's brother.

Regards Yeah,
works a treat, even on the tops of plane blades and cap irons, saws and rusty pliers and spanners.
Graeme

R. McCarthy
9th Feb 2005, 09:38 PM
Pete J & Graemet,

Thanks to both - will follow this up - Bob's your uncle & eye's your guide !

arose62
10th Feb 2005, 08:04 AM
I vote for electrolysis too!

Just tried it for the first time a couple of days ago - see my thread on "Saw Restoration"

Cheers,
Andrew

DanP
10th Feb 2005, 12:49 PM
Try this:

CLICK HERE (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=14620&highlight=electrolysis)

Dan

Cliff Rogers
10th Feb 2005, 01:42 PM
G'day.



While you are searching, search on Rust Removal 'cos the subject has been covered & other methods with comments for & against have been put up.

Here is a snip from one of my old posts....

I use a Wattyl Killrust product that you might like to have a play with.
There is a waterbased one called Metal Prep that is good on rusty tools.
It has phosphoric(?) acid in it & it kills the rusts & turns it blue/black & leaves a sort of powdery protective coating on the steel. It even takes rust stains out of paint. I like it.
There is another one that is not water based called Rust Eeter. It stinks like lacquer, stains your hands & needs lacquer thinners to clean it up. It also turns the rust blue/black & leaves a plastic coating on the surface. I don't like it.
I use the Metal Prep on anything that has got away from me & then give it a shot of WD40 or Lanoguard after a week or so.
I've used it to restore an old 6" planer I found in a shed at Cooktown & now that it is out of the salt air, I haven't had to treat it with WD40 or Lanaguard. I'll give it a hit with the Lanoguard when I put a new set of blades in it & put it into use....

That was a year ago now & I still haven't treated it with WD40 or Lanaguard & it is still fine. (It hasn't been used, I still don't have power in that shed yet.)

johnno402002
1st Apr 2005, 08:29 PM
Hi,

Another method is to use mollasses. Ive tried it on some of my car panels and it works great, slow, but great. I got the mollasses in bulk at the local horse food shop, $20 for 20 litres.

I got the idea from Glenn here

http://users.bigpond.com/glenn_percy/de-rust.htm


regards,

John

echnidna
1st Apr 2005, 08:37 PM
Hi,

Another method is to use mollasses. Ive tried it on some of my car panels and it works great, slow, but great. I got the mollasses in bulk at the local horse food shop, $20 for 20 litres.

I got the idea from Glenn here

http://users.bigpond.com/glenn_percy/de-rust.htm


regards,

John


Seems a waste of mollasses, think of all that rum that coulda been made outa it. That won't fix the rust but after a few nips - who cares :D :D :D :D

violincrafter
7th Apr 2005, 10:08 PM
Hi Mr R.M,
Its a shame that these tools have not been used for a while! Anyway you need to get out a brass wire brush that fits a drill. The rust needs to be removed using this rotating wheel. Remember use safety glasses and a respirator so as not to inhale the feric oxide. Once this has been removed you need to get fron an auto shop a Deoxidine solution that contains phosphoric acid. Use gloves please. leave the tools to soak for about 15 minutes which then should be removed and washed in soapy water and dried immediately.

Use some "steelo" wool to brighten the surface steel to a nice finish.

Once dry spray a light coat of "fish oil" that is available from auto stores that is deodorized. Allow this to dry a Wallah you have a natural protective coating that should last a fair while. If you use the tools and wear away the coating re apply so you can put them away for storage. This is the cheapest way to prolong metal tools. You could also linseed it by lightly wiping the tool. Works wonders!

R. McCarthy
8th Apr 2005, 06:36 AM
Thanks for your suggestion Violincrafter.......

soundman
1st May 2005, 11:53 PM
I have a bench grinder with a wire weel on one side and a scotchbrite wheel on the other.
The wire brush removes the rough stuff then the scotch brite wheel does its magic and I dooo mean magic. It leaves a shiny poloshed finish.
cheers