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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Thumbs up Front and back plates fitted !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've now got the front and back plates fitted without any problem.

    14-04-2019-001.jpg 14-04-2019-002.jpg 14-04-2019-003.jpg
    The holes are drilled and countersunk. That 20 mm carbide milling cutter is what I used to get the split clamp properly installed. I put the front part complete with the modified M4 cap screw in first and then the rear half was screwed into place using the cap screw. It just protrudes a fraction, so I gave it a rub down with emery cloth.

    14-04-2019-006.JPG 14-04-2019-004.JPG 14-04-2019-007.JPG
    I test fitted the 20 mm diameter motor support column and you can see what it looks like in the second picture. That last picture shows the slide plate and the green plate is where it will be supported at both sides.

    I haven't yet made up my mind whether to use the ball bearings that I have or to use brass or plastic sliding pieces with gibb screws. I was hoping that I would get some feedback about my ideas. In any case since dovetails are out, I still have to machine a slot on either side to provide support for what ever method I use.

    I'm going to make the side plates for the slide next along with drilling and tapping the table to hold them.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Thumbs up Centre Slide Drawing !

    Hi Guys,

    I've spent most of the day completing the drawing for the centre slide plate and the end and support plates.

    Centre Slide.png

    There are no details on here for the hole for the table feed screw assembly. However I have done a small drawing for the ball bearings and the mounting pin that they are fastened to. There are no slots required on this part since the side plates support the bearings.

    NOTE: At this point I am undecided whether the ball bearings are a good idea, or not ! Having received very little feedback.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    135

    Default

    I'm assuming the bearings are for the moving top section and from your drawing it looks as if they will be used in a horizontal position is that correct ? If so are they ok to use for an axial load, if yes then they will probably work ok - I am however no design engineer and generally believe if it looks right then it is right.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Thank you for your comments.

    Yes you are right ! The original Idea was to lower the overall hight and to make the slides easy to move by reducing the friction as much as possible. The original design used precision ground round bar running in a reamed hole in a steel block. My issue with that is at some point grinding dust will find its way into that assembly. Brooks has not made any provision for way wipers or for lubrication.

    Part of the idea behind using ball bearings is you can get fully sealed ones, however the ones that I have are only shielded and only on one side. Fitting simple felt wipers should be easy though.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Thumbs up New drawing for slide plates.

    Hi Guys,

    I've set to and cut the four side plates for the slide block this morning. I've discovered another error in the dimensions. Rather than re-post the whole drawing I've just done one with the changes/corrections.

    Center slide End Plate.png
    I had forgotten to add on the 6 mm at each side to account for the thickness of the plates on the other sides.
    I've also spent some time checking the tramming of the mill vise and head unit. I've also re-fitted the X-Y table to the drill press and set that back up so that it is square. In doing so I've discovered that the X-Y table rises 5 thou when wound towards the right hand side. I didn't expect that !
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    135

    Default

    It might pay to get new bearings that are shielded both sides - small bearings that size are not overly expensive.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Yes I agree ! I did find several suitable ones on line, all from China. Dirt cheap as you say.
    Also slightly thicker, 4 mm rather than 3 mm, but with the same 5 mm bore.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Thumbs up Bearings and spindles.

    Hi Guys,

    Got a bit more done today ! I've cut the four side plates for the slide, drilled them and threaded the M5 holes for the bearing spindles. I've also made half a dozen spindles, I've another six to make. Bit of a learning curve there. I initially single pointed a couple and found that the 5 mm rod that I'm using flexes too much even though I only have 1/2" inch sticking out of the lathe chuck. Basically I had a thread that was fatter on the end than it was next to the chuck. So I did the next ones with a die and threw the first ones in the scrap bin. A much quicker process.

    I've not taken any pictures of the side plates yet but here is the picture of the bearings and six of the 12 needed spindles.

    Bearings-Hubs.jpg
    They fit very well, just a firm push with my fingers. Just for scale those bearings are 3 mm thick and 13 mm diameter.

    Thanks for looking !
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    30
    Posts
    840

    Default

    How are you going to lock the bearings in location? Slim jam nuts or some kind of grub screw? Looking good so far

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Hi Caskwarrior,

    Thank you for your kind comments.

    I wasn't going to bother, the bearings cant get off the spindle in use because they will be trapped between two vertical surfaces, and the spindle pins I was just going to locktite the threads in place. I might put a slot in the threaded end so I can nip them with a screwdriver.

    The bearing centre is a fraction wider than the outer edge by a couple of thou on each side, so any rubbing will be on the base side of the hub, I don't know if this will become a problem or not.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,138

    Default

    Excelent Baron, good to see you are getting stuck into it.
    What are you using to cut the tapers for the tapered head cap screws? The surface finish is great, actualy
    more like fantastic compared to the finish i have been getting with the chinko cutters that i have.

    cheers, shed

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    655

    Default

    Hello BaronJ,

    Clapping and cheering and general goodwill from me.

    Saw your note about going back to the place you got some metal from to use their bandsaw because hacksawing would take too long.

    I have only ever seen 32, 24 and 18 tpi hacksaw blades in the shops.

    However, have read about 14 tpi blades that are reported to be great for cutting thicker bits of metal. Have never seen them for sale in local shops only on internet. Might be handy to have if you have to manually do some more cuts of that thicker stuff.

    Bill

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Hi Shed,

    Thank you for your comments, they are appreciated.

    Do you mean the countersunk M8's on the end plates ? If so the countersink was done using a 1" inch diameter "Weldon" 82 degree single hole cutter.

    The surfaces have been fly cut using the disc type cutter ! I'm sure that I posted pictures of the two that I use. I'll re-post the pictures if you want.

    Thanks.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Hi Bill,

    Thank you for your kind words and comments.

    Yes I thought it was very nice of them to offer to do that, cutting that big piece of plate would have taken me until Christmas ! In actual fact it took less than two minutes on their big bandsaw, and I had almost no cleaning up to do to mill the ends square.

    Like you, I have only ever seen 32, 24 and 18 tpi hacksaw blades in the shops, though I do have a very old 16 tpi blade, but I don't use it ! Mainly because I'm too lazy to change the blade and it is still very hard work pushing the thicker blade and the more course teeth through the work.

    Actually they did say it was no problem if I wanted to cut anything else, just to pop in and ask. The foreman there did mention that they had an old bandsaw in storage that needed repair, though never said what was wrong with it. Could have been a hint to ask him about it. But of course it didn't dawn on me until I started this reply to you. Which is a bugger because it is good Friday tomorrow and they are closed until Tuesday, and I will be on my way on holiday Tuesday morning.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,285

    Default Top slide.

    Hi Guys,

    Not got a lot done since my last post. I've done a drawing of the top slide and obtained a piece of 80 mm by 20 mm thick bright rolled bar 13" inches long. Cost me a couple of pounds. I've spent a couple of hours hacksawing it to length plus a bit to machine off in order to square up the ends. I've also got a few millimetres to machine off the side to get down to the same width as the centre slide.

    I've almost got all the pieces in order to start putting the X-Y table together. I still need the left hand threaded bar for the slide traverse mechanism. I might need to single point that ! I'm thinking about it.

    Top Slide 1 .png

    Oh, one thing that I forgot to mention is that I have decided to use 6 mm flat bar for all the end plates, on both the top slide and the centre slide plate. So there is only the two base end plates that are different. Also all the fastening screws are M6, again only the base end plates use M8 screws.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

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