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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,133

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    Hi Glivo,

    Yes a capacitor across the supply will help smooth the voltage ! But do use one with a voltage rating of at least double the voltage you expect, and if its an electrolytic one make sure you connect it the right way round. A motor start or run cap would be best. you can connect those either way round ! No danger of damaging anything then.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    106

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    Thanks. I will have something here. If I can just determine this then a substitute drive motor assembly should be easy to rig up.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,900

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    Yep, a cap across the motor will smooth out the pulses and may be enough for you to get a handle on the voltages at play. As you also said, fully cranked up should be close to 100% meaning that apart from some switching noise, it should almost be DC, albeit a "dirty" DC. One thing I forgot to mention, if your DMM has true RMS reading ability then it may give you a more meaningful reading.

    Just out of interest, does your feed motor assembly look like this?

    If so then i guess its somthing for me to look forwar to as well!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post

    Just out of interest, does your feed motor assembly look like this?

    If so then i guess its somthing for me to look forwar to as well!

    Simon
    That is the unit. It is exactly what mine used to look like before it disintegrated.
    Did you or do you always release the tension? I did but it made no difference.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,900

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    In truth I have only had this machine for about 4 months. I bought it second hand for about $100 so I have not got into any habbits with how I store it when not used.

    My previous machine which I still have is a cheap and nasty SIP and I NEVER stored it with the tension off. It's now 19 years old and still works*

    *Well it works in a round about way. It's terrible to use because it was cheap.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    106

    Default

    I used to leave the screws that hold the spool and feed compartment cover in place out so I could easily access the mechanism. Stupid idea to have it inside a screw shut compartment. There is one on Gumtree for $200. I wouldn't touch it at that price.

    You never know you may be lucky and get a few more years out of it. I'll keep this post updated with any mods I make and parts used, where obtained etc. You may need it one day.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,900

    Default

    Thanks. I appreciate that. Yes, both my mig welders have screws holding on the cover to the chassis. They got removed in first use and never replaced!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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