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  1. #1
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    Default Fitting remote stop switches to PowTran PI-160

    I recently bought a PowTran PI 160 which Iím fitting to a Hafco bandsaw EB-280D (1.1 kW. 3.6 Amps).

    As its Stop & Run buttons are very small, Iíd like to fit a separate Emergency Stop button as well as a Finish Cut Switch (i.e. stop at bottom when cut through), which Iíve salvaged from the existing electrical controls. Both are NC and were wired in series.

    I planned to use one of the seven multi-function digital input terminals powered from the +24 volt terminal and set the value to #8 Ė Free Stop (no braking).

    When the circuit is live again, does the inverter automatically recommence power to the motor?
    Iíve looked through 5-2-5 Start & Stop Control Group. There doesnít seem to be anything I need to program for Start. I always lift the blade before starting a cut so itís never initially under load.

    Would it be preferable to use a standard on/off switch instead of the Emergency Stop?

    Any advice or guidance would be appreciated. - Peter

  2. #2
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    No it shouldn't start back up again when you lift the blade until you press the run button again. Just use momentary type push button switch. You should also be able to wire a separate e stop button somewhere that is easily accessable.

    You might also want to consider a pot for variable speed.

  3. #3
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    I just installed a PI160 onto my MW lathe.
    See VFD install summaries - Page 10

    The ON-OF switch cannot be a momentary switch it must be a switch that holds contact - OFF is obtained by disengaging contact.

    This means you will need to think carefully about the switch placed into a finish cut position.
    If it is a non-latching ON-OFF switch placed into the VFD ON-OF circuit as soon as the blade is lifted it will restart the motor.

    What you could us is a switch system similar to that used to be able to switch the same light on and off from different switches.

    A simple alternative is to use a simple micro switch as the finish cut switch (switch B) and put that in series with another latching switch (Switch A) that is turned on at the start of the cut . At the end of the cut switch B turns the VFD OFF. Now (BEFORE LIFTING THE BLADE) switch A off and then you can lift the blade without restarting the VFD. This is probably the way I would do it.

    FWIW using a simple ON-OF switch that is left in the ON position means that when the mains power fails and comes back on it will start the machine - this is the default position. There may be a way to reprogram this feature another way but I have not been able to find it

    To cope with the above I usually use a latching emergency switches at hip height to turn off the input power to the VFD completely. Thus when the power comes back on it won't even start the VFD and I know there is something I need to attend to.

    If you want to use a momentary switches to start/stop the VFD you will need some sort of precircuitry using relays and no-vilt switches. I have done this on my Tri-grinder stand where two grinders share one VFD.

    The PI160 is a great little VFD and extremely good value for money.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks for the feedback. I did have momentary switches from the old control system but will use a simple On-Off Switch instead of the Emergency Stop. I was wary about installing an Emergency Stop on the PowTran mains input. I thought I'd read PowTran advising against this because it could blow some of the unit's capacitors if halted this way during operation. However an Emergency Stop is useful in dire situations whatever the consequences.

    I considered an external pot but prefer to use the saw's hydraulic descent control rather than vary the speed. It's a future option if I need it.
    Bob, I like your enclosure solution as a bandsaw with coolant can be messy at times.

    One other question: I have a 415 volt, single phase coolant pump on the bandsaw: 0.1 kW, 0.3 amps. Could I run it on 240 volts? It's only pumping coolant onto the blade.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterbilt View Post
    Thanks for the feedback. I did have momentary switches from the old control system but will use a simple On-Off Switch instead of the Emergency Stop. I was wary about installing an Emergency Stop on the PowTran mains input. I thought I'd read PowTran advising against this because it could blow some of the unit's capacitors if halted this way during operation.
    Correct. The VFD MUST be connected direct to the motor and power to the motor be turned on/off using the VFD. You can have a switch on the outputs side of the VFD BUT the motor cannot be running if this switch is activated, which makes it useless to use as an emergency switch (However it can be used as a by pas with provided certain other precautions are taken.

    However an Emergency Stop is useful in dire situations whatever the consequences.
    A no-volt switch on the VFD input side is the simplest way to go fo these I get mine from ebay.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Type-...RmjwTMmPDCSNpA

    I considered an external pot but prefer to use the saw's hydraulic descent control rather than vary the speed. It's a future option if I need it.
    Bob, I like your enclosure solution as a bandsaw with coolant can be messy at times.
    Thanks - its the only VFD enclosure I have on machinery, the other VFDs in my shed just have a sheetmetal porch roof above them to reduce dust fall out onto the VFD and more importantly to reduce the impact of something heavy falling onto them.

    One other question: I have a 415 volt, single phase coolant pump on the bandsaw: 0.1 kW, 0.3 amps. Could I run it on 240 volts? It's only pumping coolant onto the blade.
    Are you sure it is a 415V single phase? , usually those pumps are 240V - ie connected to one of the 3, 240V phases that make up a 415V 3P, plus a neutral. Have a look to see if connects to the neutral.

  6. #6
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    The coolant pump is labelled as 415v on its name plate. It was connected across two phases (it's M2 on the attached circuit diagram). The main motor M1 was two speed, switched across from 2 pole to 4 pole.

    Coolant pump plate-min.jpgCoolant pump circuit-min.jpg

  7. #7
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    I hope that old speed switch has been removed?

    RE: Pump
    Yep - its 415V SP. Not much you can do about it.
    Its a tiny motor, only 100W. What about replacing it completely with a 240V washing machine pump which are about that power.

    Here is the SAGA of how I did mine.
    Washing machine pump as a coolant pump
    It took me a while to sort it but it has been super reliable since then.

    I have and all SS 1960's era Russian 180W? 3P 380V closed loop coolant system I was thinking of setting up for a WC Plasma torch. I think it is a Y motor - must drag it out from under the house and take a look at it.

  8. #8
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    The old main motor speed switch was the first item I removed.

    The current coolant pump has me somewhat intrigued. The 415 volt label has been pasted over the original marking that was probably 230v. Hafco sell an almost identical model in 230v & 415v but their 415v is three phase: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P233 & https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P232

    After reading the washing machine pump posts, I have a redundant dish washer that may still have an operating water pump which could be adapted into service. We have several spare & redundant coolant pumps at work but unfortunately they're all 415v.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterbilt View Post
    The old main motor speed switch was the first item I removed.


    The current coolant pump has me somewhat intrigued. The 415 volt label has been pasted over the original marking that was probably 230v. Hafco sell an almost identical model in 230v & 415v but their 415v is three phase: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P233 & https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P232

    After reading the washing machine pump posts, I have a redundant dish washer that may still have an operating water pump which could be adapted into service. We have several spare & redundant coolant pumps at work but unfortunately they're all 415v.
    I am not sure how comfortable you are working with mains V but you have nothing to lose trying the current coolant pump at 240V. The only thing that will happen is it will pump at reduced (~1/4) power so will only generate enough of a pressure head to raise the fluid ~1/4 as high but it still may be enough to pump what you need for the BS. My 100W washing machine motor supplies WAAAY too much fluid anyway so I run the coolant in a loop up to a height above the blade and just bleed off a small amount of coolant/lube onto the blade through 12mm black retic pipe and then down to 6mm which is further flow restricted because the ID of the 6mm retic junctions are only about 3mm.

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