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I found that with the connection to high speed, when turned down to low hz on vfd I could stop the motor with my boot which is not very useful on a lathe or any other machine. Maybe there is a way to...

Many differing ideas around vfd's where some Euro people have run off the high speed on these motors okay, but yes not to use switches while running. Haven't done so yet but do intend to wire up to...

Yes sorry, but not for mixing up P8 with PB! For some reason when trying to do a reset I went into PF settings!? And PF.00, so realize now that I was way off with my thinking there. Anyway all is now...

Ok thanks for that I'll see what I can do and as I said have already bypassed contactors and the poleswitch. it's a 9100 series, M 2.2kW, yes downloaded manual and tried to use the PB section, but it...

All useful thoughts thanks.

Thanks I missed your post before posting my last one. Seems that my problem was wiring from switch. Thanks for tips re. VFD settings. What is an auto tune? I never reinstalled the motor after buying...

I wired up directly from VFD to motor and it now works! Someone I know said results I was getting were due to a missing phase and also alluded to in a comment here. Now to understand the wiring of...

I've now noticed that the motor will keep running even when frequency is turned down to around 3.5hz

If I turn VFD up to 50hz, motor still won't start without a push, but once running I can vary speed with the VFD.

Thinking now of bypassing lathe connections and wiring directly from VFD to the motor.

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I could vary the speed quite a bit until it went too low.

I did check static and running but for some reason when running the voltage was jumping around too much for me to understand. Maybe my multimeter wasn't up to the task.
Measuring from motor...

Hi, I've just connected a new VFD to the 3ph 415v 2 speed motor of my lathe. Problem; The motor will now run up to full speed (2800) no problem, BUT only after I give the pully an initial push start....

Ok thanks. I probably won't use that product although have used others of theirs in the past. Acetone will dissolve cured epoxies so not really a useful test. I'm reading a Dulux PDS on one of their...

With second thoughts, some hindsight and in the interests of safety I've decided now to go with 2 pack paint, BUT with a sponge roller and brush. The amount of flat areas are quite small.
My...

I don't know anything about ankle-grinders causing death, you'd have to be doing something very wrong although I have killed a few of them in my time. Now heart attack when using a wet saw?
I...

All very tempting to go with an epoxy enamel and a brush.
However these thoughts over painting only started once I had dismantled the 2nd lathe to get it into the workshop. It's in pieces so why...

Yes, which is why, if 2 pack it might something like Acrathane, an acrylic without the isocyanates. Anyway if I go that route it'll be a somewhat brief episode and include any necessary PPE.

Thanks.
I've gone over the suspect paint areas with 180 paper and scraped out anything else so it'll be a job for primer/filler coat for the rest. Neither of these lathes are toolroom types so have...

Ok thanks, pretty much sums up my feelings although I don't think I'll do a brush job as much as that would be very convenient it is a drawn out business and you can't quickly and easily build up a...

Does anyone have a view on type of paint to redo a lathe. I intend to do both of mine but not at the same time. I have 5 years experience with spray work on guitars and would like to have a good...

I almost went this route but found a very nice used Schaublin 102 here. Definitely not the level of these but will do the job. Don't overlook additional charges also don't underestimate 'shipping'...

Update on my steel door. All done except for the installation of the glass panels but what I'm finding is that when it's knocked it rings like a gong. So, do I fill the main tubes with expanding foam...

I got a Kemppi 180 amp Minarc from Rapid Welding in the UK. Wow, fast delivery, 5 days and a very good price, well I couldn't find better.

If you want to avoid bending just alternate your beads from side to side. Or clamp a piece of sturdy angle(10-12mm) to the offside before you do the first root run, remove it and do that side and so...

I agree. Fair bit of extra work for no realistic added advantage.

Same plate setup applies but I couldn't help you with the welder settings as I haven't done mig to certification level. Thing to remember when doing a proper Fillet weld is to really burn in on that...

I bought a Speedgas E size Argon bottle about 2 years ago and just got my latest refill, it was a $135. in Sydney. What I didn't consider when I bought was the lifespan of the bottle. How long before...

To get good penetration in a Fillet weld you need a flat clean fit, eg. NO gap and high amperage on the root run. For 15mm plate I would use at least 150amps and good quality hydrogen controlled...

It's ok, I just did a job for someone where 50x 8mm bar was required. I cut all of it using an angle grinder and there were around 92 cuts and used 12, 125mm cutting discs. Did 42 welds and some were...

If 2 plates are welded together at 90deg to each other the weld required is a Fillet weld, the plates themselves form the bevel. A manufactured bevel is required when 2 plates thicker than say 4mm...

I mean just cutting with a 1mm slitting disc and 125mm angle grinder. Not large dimensions so doable.

Are the 2 150x100x15 bars welded standing at right angles to the 150x300 plates? With a fillet weld all round then just make sure the 15mm edge is FLAT and clean. This should require minimum 5 passes...

For a comparison, does anyone know how laser cutting steel pricing works out against manually made parts in small quantities? Less than 20 pieces in total at about maximum 700x50x10mm.

Yes, galvanised bolts. Stainless reacts with galvanising.

Thanks, and the hinges don't have any plating on them, so ready to go there at least.

Thanks, I'm getting the message about HF.
I've never intentionally welded through duragal but removing it can be a nuisance in some difficult places.
Another question, what is everyone's view on...

I thought of soap. Have you tried it?

Never yet used it but looking forward to that:/
Yes, in the end it got the flap-disc treatment and all good. Thanks.

Ah well, in the end I gave up procrastinating grabbed an 80grit flap-disc put it on the variable speed grinder set at 3 speed and got stuck into it. Worked a treat. I've had mixed feelings about...

Yes, hydrochloric can cause rusting inside but in this case my welds are all closed up and the remaining zinc plating does it's job as an anode anyway. Also, I do flush the parts thoroughly with...

Thanks, yes, know all about the effects of Zinc fumes, but as I was planning on removing the coating regardless of how I did it, then that is not my main concern.

I do prefer TIG for these jobs, very neat results, but yes if not cleaned of the coating, the zinc leaps happily onto the electrode which then needs to be re sharpened, plus there is the messier weld...

I'm TIG welding a Duragal door and frame with quite a few small section welds to a 65x35 perimeter frame. Any ideas, other than grinding to remove the gal coating. No problem doing ends of sections I...

3M pads?

Thanks, was hoping there would be a spray-on, wipe-off secret formula....Ah well. Yes I have the wire brush and angle grinder but use it only when nothing else will fit. Acid, Hydrochloric? I have a...

For this I mostly use my belt sander with an old belt which I find the most effective but does anyone have a secret, non-mechanical way to get it off?

Ok, thanks KB... So that's yet another list that I'll need to compile, but you're right, it's all down to how well you research any project.

I'm thinking of building something. Do I need 'plans' for dimensions etc?