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Air compressor intake.

arthur1920

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My new Husky air 60 gal compressor is fairly quiet except the intake..I imagine it is the valve, high frequencey noise. kind of annoying.

How do I plumb the intake to a remote. There is a flange like thing on the intake, oblong...two screw holes. The air cleaner threads into a larger hole inbetween those two. Can I get some kind of a flange or do I need to find something to thread into the air cleaner hole, then pipe away. Or has anyone found some suitable hose to slip over the factory air cleaner housing?

thanks,

Art
 
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senlow

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Intake noise is often a significant factor in compressor noise. A remote filter is one method of mitigating this noise. I'm not familiar with this particular compressor, so I may not be able to advise on plumbing a remote filter. It would help to know the size of the threaded hole that the filter threads into. It is probably a pipe thread. If it is large enough, you could plumb directly into that threaded hole.

Another method of mitigating intake noise is to use an intake silencer. This is what I did on my compressor. Solberg Manufacturing http://www.solbergmfg.com/ is the industry standard in filter/silencers.
 
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arthur1920

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Intake noise is often a significant factor in compressor noise. A remote filter is one method of mitigating this noise. I'm not familiar with this particular compressor, so I may not be able to advise on plumbing a remote filter. It would help to know the size of the threaded hole that the filter threads into. It is probably a pipe thread. If it is large enough, you could plumb directly into that threaded hole.

Another method of mitigating intake noise is to use an intake silencer. This is what I did on my compressor. Solberg Manufacturing http://www.solbergmfg.com/ is the industry standard in filter/silencers.

Just got to it... it is 1/2 inch pipe thread.
thanks.
 

senlow

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1/2 NPT is kinda small. I suggest that you keep the remote filter close to the compressor. Try to avoid friction losses by using smooth wall pipe or tubing. Also, use as few fittings as possible - especially 45 and 90 degree elbows. An elbow creates as much friction as many feet of pipe. Using a slightly larger diameter pipe can also reduce friction losses. Depending upon the length, you may want tostep up to 3/4" pipe. I have never used it in this application, but I'm thinking that the plastic tubing for irrigation systems would be a good choice. It's inexpensive, somewhat flexible, and has smooth walls. Copper tubing works great, but is costly. Be sure to isolate the remote plumbing from the compressor with a section of rubber hose.

Since we are on the subject of air compressor noise reduction, I can offer a few more low cost tips.

First, isolate the compressor from everything. This will eliminate vibrations (read that as noise) being transmitted from the compressor to other things that can vibrate. Install isolation mounts between the compressor and the floor. If the unit is hard wired, be sure that there is a section of flexible conduit for isolation. If you are using a system of pipe to distribute air through the shop (highly reccomended), you need to use a section of flexible hose between the compressor and the pipe for isolation.

Reduce mechanical noise. There is not much that can be done about noise coming from the pump. Belt guards can transmit a significant amount of noise. This noise can be dampened by spraying the guard with undercoating. Large air tanks will vibrate, and "ring". A simple way to reduce this noise is to wrap the tank with a sheet of rubber, or spray it with undercoat. A rubber sheet need not completely cover the tank. It is only necessary to cover about 1/4 - 1/3 of the surface. It is most effective if wrapped around the middle of the tank.

Another thing to work on is reflected noise. A wall near a compressor will reflect noise back into the shop. Installing a compressor in a corner increases the reflected noise. A corner will act as a horn. Some of this noise can be absorbed by installing sound absorbing material on the walls near the compressor. Acoustical dropped ceiling panels work in this application.
 

Torque1st

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Screw a bell reducer into the inlet to take the inlet up to 1" threaded pipe. The previous poster said not to use elbows but you actually WANT a couple elbows at least in the system. The elbow fittings reduce a significant portion of the impulse noise. Use a section of rubber hose but make it a straight hose. Curved hose radiates noise. Screw a small engine muffler with a 1" pipe thread into the end of your pipe run.

105-122.jpg

This one has a 1" pipe thread and is for a Kohler Muffler Replaces 275679 1" Female Pipe Thread from:
http://www.lawnmowerstuff.com/
Yes, it is running backwards...

Use an aftermarket air filter that will fit around the muffler with a hose clamp like one of these or similar brands:
RC-2400.jpg

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
There are many sizes available. You can find them at auto supply stores.

Do NOT use a rubber sheet, undercoating, or any insulation on the tank! The tank must remain in free air to cool the air and condense moisture. It is an important function of the reservoir. Acoustic tile on the wall is a good idea.
 
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eschoendorff

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Screw a bell reducer into the inlet to take the inlet up to 1" threaded pipe. The previous poster said not to use elbows but you actually WANT a couple elbows at least in the system. The elbow fittings reduce a significant portion of the impulse noise. Use a section of rubber hose but make it a straight hose. Curved hose radiates noise. Screw a small engine muffler with a 1" pipe thread into the end of your pipe run.

105-122.jpg

This one has a 1" pipe thread and is for a Kohler Muffler Replaces 275679 1" Female Pipe Thread from:
http://www.lawnmowerstuff.com/
Yes, it is running backwards...

Use an aftermarket air filter that will fit around the muffler with a hose clamp like one of these or similar brands:
RC-2400.jpg

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
There are many sizes available. You can find them at auto supply stores.

Do NOT use a rubber sheet, undercoating, or any insulation on the tank! The tank must remain in free air to cool the air and condense moisture. It is an important function of the reservoir. Acoustic tile on the wall is a good idea.

This is a really interesting idea...:beer:
 

Torque1st

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I have posted similar things a number of times. It is how my remote intake is designed. The compressor itself does not make a lot of noise. It is that darn intake. The unloader valve makes the next worst noise but it is only once per cycle.
 

eschoendorff

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I have a Craftsman Pro oil-lubed 25 gal 110vac compressor... never really been bothered by the noise. Interesting to see how others deal with this situation...
 

Torque1st

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Even a rigid expansion up to 3/4" pipe, a 90°El, and a 3/4" small engine muffler with a better air filter will help the noise some.

The cheapo air filters they put on most compressors are too small and let too much crap thru them for good compressor life.
 
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arthur1920

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some good suggestions here!

Torque1st,
what is a bell reducer and where do you find one with a pipe thread on the end? I imagine it looks like a velocity stack?? with a taper down to the pipe thread?


I was trying to think of something along the lines of getting an old air cleaner and running the hot air tube to the air compressor filter, sealing the snorkle and letting it run in reverse flow. Theory being that you are stuck with a half inch pipe hole at the inlet and what you do upstream would have little effect as far as additional restriction. Anyone have thoughts on this?

tia
 

Torque1st

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A pipe fitting that extends a run by joining two pipes of different diameter. Often called a reducing coupling. You will need a short 1/2" nipple at the compressor intake.

You can find one at a good hardware store or plumbing supply. They come in black iron as well as galvanized.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/blackfittings.html
black_iron_bell_reducer.jpg


As far as your air cleaner idea. Don't reduce the size before you hit that 1/2" pipe fitting on the intake.
 

The Alchemist

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I've got an older craftsman 60 gallon 2 stage, and the inlet filter is actually oval shaped. Does anyone have any ideas of how to go about expanding that or does craftsman make anything that would work?
 

sberry

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Pipe it in from outside. Make an adapter and use a big ole rubber hose thru the wall to a filter. I have a big blanket that shields the front of my primary comp, really helps. I should pull outside air for that one, helps with condensate.
 

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Torque1st

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I've got an older craftsman 60 gallon 2 stage, and the inlet filter is actually oval shaped. Does anyone have any ideas of how to go about expanding that or does craftsman make anything that would work?

Follow the directions I gave above and make it as big as you want.
 

The Alchemist

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The issue is where the inlet is on the pump housing. It is ~1" tall and ~3" wide with a bolt hole on each side. Very similar to how you'd bolt up an exhaust manifold on a car. I'll post pictures later showing exactly what I'm talking about. I guess I could always fabricate somekind of adapter.
 

Torque1st

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With that type fab a plate and weld a male pipe stub on it. Deform the pipe stub if needed to conform to the opening. Finish the interior smooth. Protect the male threads with a coupling screwed on tightly with an anti seize coating for lubrication. Grind the welded plate as flat as you can then finish it with sandpaper on glass. Fixture the assy to prevent rocking during finishing. Use a paper thin piece of gasket material.

The rubber hose section of the intake should be a straight as possible to avoid radiating noise.
 
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6530

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The previous poster said not to use elbows but you actually WANT a couple elbows at least in the system. The elbow fittings reduce a significant portion of the impulse noise.

This is right. I just installed a couple of these Solberg filter silencers on my Garage Mate with a couple of elbows each at 90 degrees, and the noise difference is pretty dramatic.

2010-10-26_21-56-24_144.jpg


Thread back from the dead...
 
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NewShockerGuy

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I am kinda in the same boat.. Except I didn't know that my filter housing was 1/2" NPT and I got a 3/4" npt... the guy threw in an adaptor but the damn housing is HUGE!!!..

I think it's too big but maybe someone can chime in and say no that's ok?

Is having TOO big of a air filter housing/filter possible to starve the pump..

I just have a husky (campbell hausfeld) vt6314 30 gallon upright air compressor.

Pics of the housing: I didn't think it would be this big...lol

DSC05742_edited.jpg


My Stock one:
IMG_20110328_215324.jpg


The solberg.. I think I am going to sell this and get the 1/2" one since I won't have to use an adaptor:

IMG_20110328_220301.jpg


IMG_20110328_220312.jpg


It just sticks out too far..lol

-Nigel
 

JayL

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JayL

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Solberg has this to say when I emailed them about the filter.

Thank you for your inquiry. The most important determinant of free air delivery (FAD) will be the diameter of the inlet orifice. In this case your inlet is 1/2". The FS-06-050 is the standard filter recommended for the Speedaire compressor model # 4B236. It is possible to substitute this filter with one that has a larger element surface area. Our FS-10-050 will fit since this filter also has a 1/2" connection. We actually can offer 2 versions of our FS-10-100. One with the standard silencing tube of 5/8" (16mm) and the other with a larger silencing tube of 15/16" (24mm).

The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-06-050 is approximately 5.15"WC (13 mbar).
The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-10-050 with the 5/8" silencing tube is approximately 4.36"WC (11 mbar).
The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-10-050 with the 15/16" silencing tube is approximately 1"WC (2.5 mbar).

By increasing the diameter of the silencing tube your pressure drop will decrease but your noise level will increase. If the increase of noise is not an issue, then I suggest using the FS-10-050 with the 15/16" silencing tube. Below are the prices and sale terms for each filter.

FS-06-050 = US$ 16.50 (in stock; EXW Solberg USA in Itasca, IL USA) FS-10-050 with 5/8" tube = US$ 25.00 (in stock; EXW Solberg USA in Itasca, IL USA) FS-10-050 with 15/16" tube = US$ 25.00 (in stock; EXW Solberg USA in Itasca, IL USA)
 

6530

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Did you notice any sound dampening when you installed the Solberg filter on the compressor?

I did - quite a bit. The character of the noise is also different, and seems more bass-ish thumpy thumpy rather than the high-pitched noise before I installed them.

Solberg has this to say when I emailed them about the filter.

[snip]

The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-06-050 is approximately 5.15"WC (13 mbar).
The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-10-050 with the 5/8" silencing tube is approximately 4.36"WC (11 mbar).
The clean pressure drop at 10.3 SCFM (17.5 m3/h) for the FS-10-050 with the 15/16" silencing tube is approximately 1"WC (2.5 mbar).

By increasing the diameter of the silencing tube your pressure drop will decrease but your noise level will increase. If the increase of noise is not an issue, then I suggest using the FS-10-050 with the 15/16" silencing tube.
[snip]

Interesting. I have the FS-06-050 on my Garage Mate.

Are you going to buy a new filter? If it were me I'd get one or two elbows & a couple of pipe nipples to maneuver the filter up and away from the cylinder and then give it a try.
 

JayL

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I did - quite a bit. The character of the noise is also different, and seems more bass-ish thumpy thumpy rather than the high-pitched noise before I installed them.



Interesting. I have the FS-06-050 on my Garage Mate.

Are you going to buy a new filter? If it were me I'd get one or two elbows & a couple of pipe nipples to maneuver the filter up and away from the cylinder and then give it a try.

Looks like it's worth a try. If I could reduce some of the noise then it would be ok for me.

I purchased this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153AIN0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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911mick

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thats exactly the filter I have on my Aussie made 17cfm (12cfm FAD) Pilot compressor and it works fine. Quite a bit quieter than the factory filter and takes exactly the same time in seconds to inflate to 100psi so no change in flow.
 

NewShockerGuy

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The compressor has one intake only. Maybe this filter below is better at 12 SCFM.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153AIN0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

@NewShockerGuy

Did you notice any sound dampening when you installed the Solberg filter on the compressor?

I just got the SAME one above but 1/2" NPT fitting...

It made the air compressor SOOOO much more quiet now... it's not that annoying intake sound..

I am VERY VERY pleased with how it sounds now and I didn't use any elbows either yet... still wondering if I should.

Will take new pictures.

Now it's actually quite bearable being in the same room and talking, where as before it was an annoying noise...etc.

Plus it flows air and comes witha much better filter than the stock one..

-Nigel
 

aka Larry

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I love this forum!

My compressor is located in a separate room so the noise hasn't been a huge concern of mine until now. I'm building a new shop and the compressor will no longer separated by a wall so I wanted to make it more quiet.

After reading this thread, I bought the Solberg unit from Amazon and installed it along with a couple of 90 degree street elbows today.

WOW, what a difference! I'd have to say it's more than substantial. I'd recommend this to anyone with a noisy compressor. Best $23 I've spent in quiet a while.
 

NewShockerGuy

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Figured I'd ask but would adding two 90 degree elbows hurt using the 1/2" diameter filter?

I already have the bigger solberg filter, but wondered if it's going to physically hurt the compressor by getting two 90 degree fittings to see if I can silence the intake anymore..

I could get a 1/2 to 3/4" 90 degree elbow then get the same filter I have but just a 3/4" fitting.. then it would have 2-3 holes drilled into the housing compared to the single hole on the 1/2 solberg housing..

this is what I have currently:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153AIVC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Actually this is the exact one I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-1-2-AIR...ultDomain_0&hash=item4aa55b4077#ht_801wt_1400


thank,
-Nigel
 
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RedBKM

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I have a cylinder shaped paper filter on my Charge Air (80 gallon, 22CFM, outdoors) that mounts inside a plastic canister. Air is pulled through holes in the bottom of the can. There are no threads on the intake and the canister attaches with a wing bolt through the center.

My only solution is to fill the canister with a foam filter. I found some small engine air filters at Tractor Supply that could work. I was thinking about layering foam then pot scrubbers at the top so the foam cant be suck in.

Any ideas? The intake manifold detaches and could be welded but noise isn't an issue, only filtering. No need for the Solberg.
 

Fixnair

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JayL, remember, the flow specs for an air filter is for a clean filter. The flow is reduced as dirt retention increases
 

DSM21

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Time to bring this thread back from the dead yet again :deadhorse
I recently bought this air compressorhttp://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-27-gallon-vertical-portable-air-compressor/p-00916474000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

Its a 27 vertical tank, oiled 1.9hp its moderately quiet on its own, but still would like a quiet air compressor.
My problem is the air inlet is basically a giant rectangle, also there is the screen and filter to contend with.

This is my first air compressor and I am no expert, but I think I will have to go with some custom fabrication to silence this thing.

http://download.sears.com/own/spin_prod_683865201.pdf
Scroll down to page 16 to see the layout. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
 

compressornew

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Screw a bell reducer into the inlet to take the inlet up to 1" threaded pipe. The previous poster said not to use elbows but you actually WANT a couple elbows at least in the system. The elbow fittings reduce a significant portion of the impulse noise. Use a section of rubber hose but make it a straight hose. Curved hose radiates noise. Screw a small engine muffler with a 1" pipe thread into the end of your pipe run.

105-122.jpg

This one has a 1" pipe thread and is for a Kohler Muffler Replaces 275679 1" Female Pipe Thread from:
http://www.lawnmowerstuff.com/
Yes, it is running backwards...

Use an aftermarket air filter that will fit around the muffler with a hose clamp like one of these or similar brands:
RC-2400.jpg

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
There are many sizes available. You can find them at auto supply stores.

Do NOT use a rubber sheet, undercoating, or any insulation on the tank! The tank must remain in free air to cool the air and condense moisture. It is an important function of the reservoir. Acoustic tile on the wall is a good idea.

I agree with you Torque.I also suggest this ones for compressor machine.
 

f575gtc

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Sorry for the thread revival

How badly will that engine muffler restrict air flow?


Also how bad of an idea is it to do something like this? It made a noticeable reduction in the pulsating noise of the compressor. I also made sure not to get any on the inside edge of the seal to slip through the filter, but it seems this would restrict the flow of air.

Those are just simple cotton balls.
 

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404

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Sorry for the thread revival

How badly will that engine muffler restrict air flow?


Also how bad of an idea is it to do something like this? It made a noticeable reduction in the pulsating noise of the compressor. I also made sure not to get any on the inside edge of the seal to slip through the filter, but it seems this would restrict the flow of air.

Those are just simple cotton balls.

Hi,
A home made U tube manometer ported thru the lid of the filter would give real numbers... Clear tubing for the U and a ruler for the scale...

Regards,
404
 

motoguy

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Zombie thread, I know. Hey, at least I used the search!

I'd like to remote my intake filter. Not for noise, but for air quality. My compressor is located in the same room as my plasma cutter, and the room gets filthy dirty. I'll usually blow out the filter once, then replace it. However, I'm going through them regularly. If I move the intake to the other side of the wall, then the compressor will be getting MUCH cleaner air.

I see some folks have used rubber hose. I was worried about the rubber hose collapsing under suction from the compressor. I assume this is only a concern if the filter has plugged up anyway? If so, I'm thinking I'll run a 1/2" to 3/4" reducer (or expander, in my case), then run a section of 3/4" pipe from the compressor. Mainly as a heat sink, and to reduce the heat of the rubber hose. Then run rubber hose to my air filter, which will be mounted on the other side of the wall (the clean side).
a
Any concerns with this?
 
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