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30th November 2012, 08:40 AM #1
Machining morse tapers ( internal)
Hi
Does anyone have experience in machining an internal morse taper eg , if one was to make a new tailstock quill
The books seem to ignore this process , I have only one book that describes how to do it , the spindles book in the small handbook series eg Harold Hall . In that case, the author says to use a boring bar and machine out the hole in steps, then finish with a roughing reamer , then fine reamer
Mike
Morse Taper Reamer Set / select MT0 to MT5 (No.0 to No.3) | eBay
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30th November 2012 08:40 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th November 2012, 09:55 AM #2Pink 10EE owner
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reaming if you want an unhardened one which would not have a long life if used a lot..
Or grinding for a hardened one...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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30th November 2012, 10:31 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Morse Taper machining
Mike
The internal morse taper can be machined with care using a boring bar.
Years back I built a wood lathe which required a no 2 morse internal for both the headstock & tailstock.
Accomplished with a boring bar & prussian blue (Bearing Blue) to check as it progressed, using a no 2 MT drill tang as a gauge. No reamers. Worked fine & 55 yrs later still using the same wood lathe.
The reamers you showed however are very low priced & would simplify things for a final cleanup of the taper.
Set up accurately in a lathe the boring bar will ensure concentricity & all should be good.
THe reamer could be used for a final cut if needed.
regards
Bruce
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30th November 2012, 05:08 PM #4Distracted Member
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For a quill you would have to be careful to get the bore aligned with the OD. I don't mean concentric. That's desirable but can be compensated for later. I mean pointing the same way. Coaxial might be the word.
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30th November 2012, 10:12 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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1st December 2012, 06:48 AM #6Philomath in training
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I did a Jarno 12 external/ Morse 2 internal adapter a while back and the method I came up with was to bore and ream the internal Morse then set up a piece of steel in the chuck and cut an external Morse. This acted as a mandrel for the internal Morse so that the adapter was mounted concentric to the lathe axis. I then cut the external taper and as a result got concentric and co-axial tapers.
For this one I would again do the internal morse then chuck a piece of sacrificial material and do a matching external taper. You then mount the quill blank on the new external taper and can centre drill the other end before turning the OD to suit.
Note that because you are machining the external taper in-situ the material can be held in a 3 jaw. At the end of the process you should have a co-axial and concentric sleeve plus you will have a bonus external taper that could be used for tooling in the future.
Michael
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1st December 2012, 09:17 AM #7
ok
Thanks for the replies. I understand the co-axial requirement . I am concerned about the actual boring process of the internal taper . a long boring bar is needed, deflection may be a problem . eg the cutting tool might move under load . I guess a rigid setup is critical for success.
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1st December 2012, 10:56 AM #8
Tubal cain
MACHINE SHOP TIPS #74 Turning a Morse Taper Part 2 of 2 tubalcain - YouTube
our old friend explains things
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1st December 2012, 03:00 PM #9.
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I reckon that your technique is the only viable means of ensuring concentricity Michael on a piddly machine*. My little Hercus dividing head bore has runout because I had to rechuck the 3M bored spindle. An in-situ machined tapered arbor would have been the solution.
BT
* a reference to my lathe not your CVA.
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1st December 2012, 08:40 PM #10Philomath in training
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Gee Bob - you almost started a war there - good thing I scrolled to the end of the page first.
I think it's the only way to get concentricity regardless of the piddlyness or otherwise of the machine. Any attempt at dialling in a blank on a 4 jaw is going to be limited by the patience of the operator and the sensitivity of the indicator. I've noticed even when I use a finely graduated indicator on a newly polished surface I will still get a slight movement between chuck jaws as I rotate around (that is, it can be zero when the indicator is adjacent to the jaw but will move a little while I rotate to the next jaw) - elastic deformation? At least with machining a mandrel in-situ the form should be perfect. I have used the same mandrel a number of times but always do a skim/ clean up cut before use to re-true it if it has been removed from the chuck.
Getting back to Mike's original question both steps and reaming or boring at the taper angle will get a result. With a smaller lathe you will have to take small cuts with sharp tools to reduce deflections and include several spring cuts. A MT3 is starting to get to a size where a boring bar will be a reasonable size but for a MT1 or 2 I'd suggest that steps and reaming may be the way.
Deflection of a boring bar is related to the diameter and the bar length (both cubed from memory) so it needs to be as short as it can be and as large in diameter as it can be to minimise deflection.
Michael
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2nd December 2012, 05:31 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Mike I have a boring bar (that I can't find at the mo ? maybe my brother has stolen it ? ), it is made
out of a 2 MT drill and has a bit of hss glued on the tang by a tool craft rod, and sharpened with a nice radius, this worked very well for the last cut and gave a great finish with no chatter, and I mean the last cut as there is not much clearance for swarf.
john
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2nd December 2012, 06:13 PM #12
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2nd December 2012, 07:21 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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2nd December 2012, 07:26 PM #14Philomath in training
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Mike, one thing you haven't said is what size taper you are trying to cut.
Secondary question - does your lathe have a taper turning attachment on it?
Michael
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2nd December 2012, 07:48 PM #15
#3
It is a general query , but I would kike to make a new quill fir the HArrison lathe , it has a #3 taper . I did attempt a #2 internal , but gave up half way as the boring bar was not long enough. Sadly, I dont have a taper turing attachment . Anyway, I can get away with a reamer for now on the quill ,it wont be perfect, but it will be useable . Mike PS loking at Tubalcains video has given me some inspiration
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