Results 241 to 255 of 258
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23rd Jan 2019, 02:08 AM #241
@R.C.: do you remember the oil you gave me? Was it SAE2.5 or ISO 2.5? The writing on the bottle has faded...
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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23rd Jan 2019, 07:53 AM #242Pink 10EE owner
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- Aug 2008
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- near Rockhampton
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Do not know what the ISO rating is, but it is Mobil Velocite #3
Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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23rd Jan 2019, 12:43 PM #243Golden Member
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- Melbourne, Australia
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Joe, the velocite 3 might be darn useful. I'll PM.
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23rd Jan 2019, 06:47 PM #244Philomath in training
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- Oct 2011
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- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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- 59
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- 6,540
Typical Properties
Mobil Velocite Oil Numbered Series No 3 No 4 No 6 No 8 No 10 ISO VG 2 10 15 22 Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 40ºC 2.1 4.83 10.0 15.0 22.0 cSt @ 100ºC 0.95 1.53 2.62 3.28 4.0 Total Acid Number, ASTM D 974, mgKOH/g 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.1 Copper Strip Corrosion, 3 hrs @ 100º C, ASTM D 130 1A 1A 1A 1A 1A Rust Characteristics, Proc A, ASTM D 665 Pass Pass Pass Pass Pass Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -36 -15 -15 -9 -30 Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 84 102 180 194 212 Density @ 15º C, ASTM D 4052, kg/L 0.802 0.822 0.844 0.854 0.862
From the Mobil site, so it would be ISO 2
Michael
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23rd Jan 2019, 07:17 PM #245Golden Member
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- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks Michael, I've seen that page - and studied it (not that that means much!)
The "32 Seconds SUV at 100F" thing really does translate into about ISO 2 .. and kerosene.
I did a small experiment last night with some kero knowing it'd be warm in the next few days. I smeared a thin layer of it on the grinder table to see if it would evaporate when quite thin. It never seems to evaporate when left in my little containers here and there so I was curious. It is an oil after all and people use it to protect stuff saying it leaves a thin layer of oil on things.
One day later the thin smear has evaporated. I cant feel any oily film - the table being cast iron might not help. That is an exposed surface, not the inside of a spindle, but quite interesting at any rate. I wonder if the velocite #3 being as thin also does the same? Who knows. But likely worth trying - that is what others use.
I called the mobil distributor today for a price. $216+GST + $50 delivery for 20 liters in Melbourne area. But kindly Joe has offered some of .RC's. Thanks both )
Greg.
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24th Jan 2019, 01:54 AM #246Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2011
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- Melbourne
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If i was to have a guess i would say that kerosene would evaporate and a higher rate than the oil under similar conditions.
Kero has a much lower flashpoint so im suggesting that it produces vapours and a greater rate than the oil at a given temp.
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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24th Jan 2019, 06:45 AM #247Philomath in training
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Diesel fuel is a light oily substance. I can understand kero evaporating away, but you might get a remaining film with diesel after the volatiles go.
Michael
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24th Jan 2019, 08:44 AM #248Most Valued Member
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- Nov 2017
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In Melbourne, I've had good experiences with Hi-Tec Oils in Altona. Hitec, High Tech Engines Need Hi-Tec Oils,
Got onto them when chasing some ISO10 for my Takisawa lathe headstock, and have also bought slideway oil from them. Slightly different prices but around the $100 for 20L drum (minimum size). You can pick it up yourself to save freight (or its not far from my work so I'd be happy to do a pickup if it helps anyone out).
Not saying they have anything to suit your application, but wouldn't hurt to give them a call and ask to speak to one of the tech sales guys.
Steve
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25th Jan 2019, 01:44 PM #249Golden Member
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- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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- 843
Thanks Steve, I gave them a bell. They don't Velocite #3 or an ISO 2 oil. No sweat. Though .. if I ever need some in bulk I might take you up on that "happy to do pickup" thing. ) . The Southern cross Lubes guys (who do #3) are also in Altona.
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28th Jan 2019, 03:52 PM #250Most Valued Member
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For sure.
Same offer goes for anyone else that's struggling to get across this side of town during the day to pick something up. No promises but will do what I can to help out.
Steve
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28th Jan 2019, 06:18 PM #251Golden Member
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Cheer old bean. Thanks.
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20th Apr 2019, 07:38 PM #252Golden Member
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- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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"this fully armed and operational battle station"
Like some movies where they start at the end:
IMG_20190420_163651.jpg
All mechanisms and bits working again now. Even the wallace-and-gromit-like auto feed stuff. That's all been 2.5 years in the process. I think it likely though that only 1.5 years has been spend on it. Bridgeports, job changes, holidays, visiting mother-in-law, etc, but a fairly sizeable project.
For the purists out there, I am pleased to say that the very _very_ first thing it has done is help make something for itself. It has ground down a shim to take up some wear in its own auto-cross-feed gubbins. Feels like new now.
Apols that I haven't posted much here lately but have been making progress when I can. I've got a new job these last few months so that had eaten quite some time. But, I had a series of smallish things that needing doing to get the basket-case show on the road ....
The spindle nut is a 1/2" left hand thread and I don't have a tap for that so I cleaned up up the old one and it has been pressed into action - rubbish as it is. I used my spindle prototype to hold it to help tidy it up:
IMG_20190122_200122.jpgIMG_20190122_200548.jpg
The nut is keyed to permit some unknown tool to tighten/loosen it. I have no such tool so I bodged an auto store bargain-bin socket to fit. Sockets are made from pretty hard stuff, so thanks to caskwarrior for some random junk carbide end-mills that, despite being overly worn, where able to mill the socket:
IMG_20190125_185416.jpg
I did score some NOS grinder wheel holders (hubs?) but, of course, once you tighten them on a taper you need something to get them off. So I rustled up an 'extractor' tool that you screw into the hub to pull it off:
IMG_20190309_114439.jpgIMG_20190309_115008.jpgIMG_20190309_121739.jpgIMG_20190309_125413.jpg
(notice 'cosmoline' on NOS hub - nice eh!)
I had quite some troubles getting the spindle sorted in-place. There is a 'thrust nut' that holds the spindle in and you use it to adjust endplay. I found that the difference between not-enough-end-endplay-to-cater-for-heat-expansion to spindle-rattles-like-a-bastard-at-45hz-plus-on-the-vfd was less than I could effect manually. It really had me stumped - either the motor would struggle when things got slightly warm, or the spindle would rattle. Nice.
I did eventually find the issue after much headscratching. I had stuffed up the alignment of the spindle 'collar' when I pressed it on. It was off by about 0.003". Which is a *lot* here. The thrust nut acts against the collar.
IMG_20190405_123303.jpg
So, armed with my xynadu-inspired mega-dremel purchase (worth EVERY cent of $50 for sure) I ground it flat in place. Back down to less than 0.01mm anyways. I manually pressed a 60deg dead-center in the spindle end when grinding. Grit got everywhere so the spindle had to be pulled and everything recleaned etc.
IMG_20190405_134711.jpg
The cover plate behind the cross-feed handle was missing all three bolts. So, thanks to 'mikalius' over on this thread: //metalworkforums.com/f65/t2029...grinder-basket, I knew their OD and TPI so I could make some. Without those screws the free-spinning plate could cause things to jam - so quite important. Thanks Mick. )
IMG_20190414_141847.jpgIMG_20190417_183127.jpgIMG_20190417_190059.jpg
The large 'knurled knob' that actuates the auto-cross mechanism needed making - I have had a prototype there for some time. Thanks again to mikalius for confirming how the darn clutch is supposed to operate. That gave me enough info to get mine operational.
IMG_20190420_140012.jpgIMG_20190420_144931.jpg
So .... working again now. Not finished yet, still some more things to go before I am satisfed the grinder is 'finished', but I am happy with the result so far. I would have been happy with a manually-actuated grinder but the auto-feed mechanisms now working is just sheer joy.
Thanks also to jhovel for the velocite #3 oil. Seems to be just the ticket. Thanks mate. Trouble is, I'll have to buy 20lt when this runs out. )
I'll see if I can muster the technological nouse to upload a video of it working. Maybe.
Now, next I have to learn how to use the bloody thing ... I *will* have questions .... )
All comments and suggestions welcome.
Greg.
<slurp>
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21st Apr 2019, 04:08 PM #253Golden Member
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Quick vid:
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21st Apr 2019, 06:49 PM #254Golden Member
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Ray, your serpentine belt is still powering the cross feed mechanism. Holding up just fine. Thanks again!
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22nd Apr 2019, 11:00 PM #255
Boy, that is great to see!
I know how much effort it was to resurrect this machine.
Thanks for letting us listen and watch the story unfold.Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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