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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Well you've shamed into finally stripping the apron on my 260ATM. That's this weekend taken care of.
    Chris

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC Canada
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    Well, it turns out it is not that hard. I removed the 2 allen head screws holding the end of the lead screw, the lead screw just slides out of the gear head and apron, easy peasy. Then 2 bolts on the carriage and the apron just drops right into your hand. From there it is just relaxing bench work.

    Here is the link to the video I watched. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz9pZfGE-U0

    Send us some pics when you get into it.

    Cheers

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Thanks, I watched that vid last night. Scary how much gunk collects in there. I'm really looking forward to stripping it down.
    Chris

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC Canada
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    Well Dagnabit, I just found the cone pulley on the AT has a broken tooth, the gear that drives the back gears. In the scheme of things not the end of the world as it only affects the low range, and I am probably going to use a VFD, but it bugs me knowing it's broken.

    Does anyone have a parts machine that they would consider selling me the said item from?

    Cheers

    PS I am also looking for oilers as there are a few missing, but I am also working on a DIY solution.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    The cone pulley gear can be replaced with a new ring gear if needed.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    The cone pulley gear can be replaced with a new ring gear if needed.
    Please explain, I haven't pulled my head stock apart yet, and from the manual it looks like it is one piece, gear with the 4 pulleys. Look forward to hearing about your solution.

    Thanks!

  7. #22
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    The cone pulley gets mounted onto a mandrel and the damaged gear is machined off down to a suitable diameter, a steel blank is faced and bored and also mounted to a suitable mandrel, the new gear is cut to this blank and then the blank is bored about .001" to .0015" under the OD of the machined section of the cone pulley,it is then heated and shrunk onto the cone pulley,after fitting it to the cone pulley it is then mounted back onto the cone pulley Arbor and faced to correct length,it is then removed from the mandrel and has 2 holes drill between the new ring and the cone pulley and 2 roll pins/ selock pins inserted to act as supplemtary retainers.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Slightly left of Vernon, BC Canada
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    61
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    Wow, okay, I understand, for me a fair bit of work and machining....I would think finding a used replacement would be preferable, however, maybe not practical as they are not all that common.

    Thank you so much for the explanation. I will investigate your option to see if it's something I can manage.

    Cheers

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Melbourne
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    35
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    That's actually a very reasonable price. I would think even with shipping to Canada it's worth it. I thing just the stock would be $80

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
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    I have never had to do a repair similar to the one you are faced with Kilohertz, but I have seen the work of others who have done repairs in a similar situation. A couple of suggestions if I may. If only one tooth is broken and all else is good, you could either braize a new tooth on, or at least a piece of meehanite or similar grade of cast iron, and then machine the tooth profile, or even just build up with bronze and machine that to the required profile. Alternatively, you could drill and tap the broken out tooth position for two or three pegs, depending on the width available, and then just machine them to the correct profile. I have heard of others just filing the tooth profile, and for a single tooth I think that it would not be too difficult to do that if you do not have milling options readily available. Here is an article which illustrates what I have not done.
    http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevor/gearrepairs.htm

  12. #27
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Well you've shamed into finally stripping the apron on my 260ATM. That's this weekend taken care of.
    Same here, been working on it this arvo.
    Fair bit of gunk around the cross feed clutch gear.

  13. #28
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    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    good luck Bob. I'll start mine tomorrow arvo. Please let me know if there are any traps for the uninitiated. I'm aware the screw that secures the clutch star knob is LH thread.
    Chris

  14. #29
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Had a couple of issues but AB sorted the out for me - then I realised I had the Southbend renovation manual and it covers everything in detail.
    I also had a new set of felt wipers and wicks.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Please let me know if there are any traps for the uninitiated. I'm aware the screw that secures the clutch star knob is LH thread.
    Correct, the flat head retaining screw is LH, the the star knob is RH thread. I pretty much followed the order of disassembly as outlined by tubalcain in his video. It's not a bad idea to snap a pic of the apron before you start dismantling it, just in case.

    When reassembling the worm drive and clutch gear, the worm needs to be rotated so that the "thin" part of the thread will engage the clutch gear as it slides in from the left back into the worm housing. For the key, retaining collar and roll pin, once the worm is back in place, I screwed on the collar and used a pin punch in the hole to help wind it back to position. Then slide in the key and tapped it until it just lined up with the holes, put the pin punch back thru all 3 holes and wiggled to ensure it was centered, then I found a socket that just snugly fits inside the worm, where the lead screw would normally go, to hold the key firmly in place, then tapped the roll pin back in. NB Don't forget the put the wick back in the slot at the bottom of the worm housing if it came out during cleaning, before you assemble the worm drive or you'll be getting more practice at all of the above. (yes, I got to do it twice).

    I can't think of anything else that was tricky, it's really a pretty simple apron.

    Good luck boys, I'll check in later to see how it's going.

    Cheers

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