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  1. #1
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    Default Exposed fasteners - what about using ss nut on steel stud?

    I've got to replace some anti-vibration feet that are in a very exposed area. These are the type with a stud coming up from the rubber foot (Kipp type D). On the current ones, the nut has rusted very badly onto the stud. The other end being rubber, I can't get a grip on them, the nuts are very hard to get at too, so I'll just have to cut them off. I could replace them with Kipp feet that have a stainless steel stud, but that is getting expensive.

    So I'm wondering, what if I get the more sanely-priced rubber feet with ordinary steel studs, but use stainless steel nuts? Will that improve the chances of getting them apart in the future?

    I found a nice article called "Avoiding the pain of rusted nuts" in the magazine Farming Ahead (http://www.farmingahead.com.au/wp-co...242_27.pdf.pdf), which presents various options for dealing with exposed fasteners -- but unfortunately it doesn't discuss the idea of stainless steel nuts with steel bolts or studs.

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Depends on the extent of the corrosion. If the studs corrode badly and swell the thread above the nut you will have the same problem

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Depends on the extent of the corrosion. If the studs corrode badly and swell the thread above the nut you will have the same problem
    I guess I can solve that by cutting the studs down to just a couple of threads proud of the nut. I've seen a couple of charts suggesting there is a galvanic corrosion risk between carbon steel and stainless steel, I don't know if that is a significant risk?

  4. #4
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    Default

    Depending on the environment and cause of corrosion, I would consider using Loctite never seize on both the nut and exposed thread and covering the exposed thread with a snug fitting plastic or rubber tube/hose. Never seize will stand up in an underground mining environment so anything else is pretty easy really. Stainless nuts on carbon steel thread won't achieve all that much IMHO.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Never seize is great stuff.
    Regards
    Bradford

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Depending on the environment and cause of corrosion, I would consider using Loctite never seize on both the nut and exposed thread and covering the exposed thread with a snug fitting plastic or rubber tube/hose. Never seize will stand up in an underground mining environment so anything else is pretty easy really. Stainless nuts on carbon steel thread won't achieve all that much IMHO.
    I hadn't heard of this. Looked it up on the web, found Loctite Anti Seize in various grades, but the Loctite website leads to dead ends when you try to find out what the various grades are for.

    If it's the 'Silver Grade' (but what little the Loctite website has seems to suggest its only for aluminium though), then Loctite LB 8150 Silver Grade Anti-Seize 20g tube, $18 + postage on eBay

    Bostik Never-Seez regular grade 113g tube $25 on eBay. Or Blackwoods for $30. There's another Never-Seez grade, 'Nuclear Grade'. The mind boggles.

    I'll see if my local industrial supplier has it, or an equivalent.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Yep, they have Chemtools brand, 35g for $8. That's better.

    I had to call Chemtools though, to sort out the grades in plain language:
    Copper grade - brass, copper, bronze only
    Nickel grade - steel, stainless steel, aluminium -- this is the one they recommended when I described my application (steel studs going rusty outdoors)
    Silver grade - works really well on stainless steel.

    Premium Nickel Anti-Seize | Chemtools® Australia

  8. #8
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    Default

    I always use Kopr-Kote. Even in the pretty trying conditions of a steam boiler it works well. While the oil may dry up eventually I found that a thin film of Copper(?) stays there and mitigates a lot of the corrosion.
    Have been using it for just over 40 years now.
    Jet-Lube, LLC. | Kopr-Kote Industrial - High Temp Anti-Sieze

    Phil

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    I always use Kopr-Kote. Even in the pretty trying conditions of a steam boiler it works well. While the oil may dry up eventually I found that a thin film of Copper(?) stays there and mitigates a lot of the corrosion.
    Have been using it for just over 40 years now.
    Jet-Lube, LLC. | Kopr-Kote Industrial - High Temp Anti-Sieze

    Phil
    I looked at your link there Phil - looks good, but where do you get it from here in Australia?

  10. #10
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    Hi Guys,

    In the UK it is called "Copperslip" ! Brilliant stuff, often used for anti seize on car brakes.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #11
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    Default slip

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    In the UK it is called "Copperslip" ! Brilliant stuff, often used for anti seize on car brakes.
    not on the linings I hope !!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnaduit View Post
    I looked at your link there Phil - looks good, but where do you get it from here in Australia?
    I'm pretty sure that total tools have it some of the bearing places do and our local bolt place can get it for me.
    At work we would get it in the 20 litre tub from a fuel supplier, Mobil I think.
    If I can think of any more I'll let you know

    Phil

  13. #13
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    Default

    About combining different metals in a wet environment: be very cautious!
    I assume you have heard about anode's on steel ships and bronze propellers? If electrically connected in a wet environment two different metals will form a kind of battery where the more corrosive metal will sacrifice itself to protect the less corrosive. In this way zink will protect steel by corroding extra fast itself. Also a electrically isolating paste is used between stainless fixtures and aluminium spars on sailing yachts to prevent the aluminium from extreme oxidation. I have seen a steel yacht that sprung leak because a stainless nut had fallen in the bilge and got wedged against the hull. Over time a very local oxidation of the steel hull occurred where the nut connected. The hull was in perfect condition otherwise, but when the owner returned from a shopping trip it had started to leak and half a meter of water was already in his boat. In your application the stud would sacrifice itself to protect the stainless nut but that would result in quick corrosion of the stud. Probably not what you intended. Antiseize might form a electrical isolation layer to protect from this phenomenon, but I am not sure, and the copaslip contains copper so provides no insulation. On the other hand the copper does function like a sort of anode which is part of its antiseize properties.

    Personally I would choose steel nuts and antiseize in your application.

    Peter

  14. #14
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    Default blind nuts

    You could make your own nuts (hex bar makes it easy), just make them longer and dont drill all the way through.
    Add some anti seize, any brand with the copper in it seems to work.

    cheers, shed

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    You could make your own nuts (hex bar makes it easy), just make them longer and dont drill all the way through.
    Add some anti seize, any brand with the copper in it seems to work.

    cheers, shed
    Cap nuts -- classy idea. Especially when filled with anti-seize goop. Yes indeed!

    I just wonder why the Chemtools sales tech said don't use copper anti-seize on steel, use the nickel anti-seize, while everyone here seems to be using copper.

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